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Chile and Argentina Birding Trip Report

7 October – 26 November 2000

Jon Hornbuckle

Diademed_Sandpiper-Plover.jpg Black-legged_Seriema.jpg (17906 bytes) Red-backed_Sierra-Finch.jpg (48496 bytes) Chilean_Flicker.jpg (105381 bytes) King_Penguin.jpg (115650 bytes)


Accommodation and food
Sites and birds in Chile
Sites and birds in Argentina
List of Mammals
Appendix: List of species against regions


To fill the major gap in my South American list, I decided to visit Chile and most of Argentina (having already been to Iguazu). I started in Córdoba, with the highly recommended assistance Hernán Casañas, then spent 6 full days in NW Argentina, before taking a bus across the Andes to northern Chile where I met up with 3 other stalwarts from South Yorkshire: Phil Gibson, Andy Marshall and Graham Speight. We then covered the whole of Chile, in 4 stages over 3 weeks, after which Andy and I bussed across to southern Argentina for the last leg of the trip. We were to have been joined by a third birder for the last part but as he had to drop out, we cut it short by omitting Ushuaia and Corrientes.

The birding was very successful, especially in Chile where I hardly missed anything I hoped to see, thanks to a lot of help and a good team. Highlights included King Penguin, 3 Pterodroma species, some spectacular waders and tapaculos, Snowy Sheathbill, Magellanic Woodpecker, Rufous-throated Dipper and the long-awaited White-tailed Shrike-Tyrant. Add to this, fairly easy logistics, generally good and pleasant weather, and some of the continent's best scenery, and you can see why I rate this as one of my favourite trips.


The cheapest routing was to fly with LAN Chile to Santiago, £545 from Manchester or London booked through WildWings, including the onward flight to Córdoba and returning from Buenos Aires (via Santiago). All pre-booked additional LAN flights were then $50 a leg, a real bargain considering some of the distances involved. The only drawback for me was that any internal flights in Argentina would have been much more expensive – visitors to Argentina usually fly in with Aerolineas or Iberia and can then use a relatively cheap airpass. I overcame this by using the long-distance buses, which were OK but time-consuming.

International departure tax was $18 in Chile and $28 in Argentina.

Car hire is expensive in both countries, especially Argentina. I used Hertz in Salta, as they offered the best deal of the international companies, and in Arica, on local advice; Budget who were cheaper in Santiago and Conce; and Avis in Punta Arenas as they were cheapest for a 4x4. The final hire in Trelew was with Localiza, for convenience and slightly cheaper than Hertz, but unlimited mileage was unavailable for a period of less than 5 days (with any company I think). Had we been able to go to the Hooded Grebe site, we would have had to hire a 4x4 which would have been very expensive.

No problems were experienced with any of the vehicles, and we only had one puncture. Standard cars were OK, although driving to and in Nahuelbuta and in Calilegua N.P. was tricky. The 4x4, a Toyota Hilux pick-up, in south Chile meant we could drive considerably faster on the many dirt roads, but was not essential, or comfortable and our bags had to go in the back, covered by a tarp.

For the first leg of the trip, in the Córdoba area, I hired Hernán Casañas ( and a jeep-type vehicle, he had borrowed from a friend, which was cheaper than a hire-car and used diesel fuel - much cheaper than petrol.


Accommodation was never a problem as I had a light 2-man tent and 2 people were prepared to sleep in the vehicle on occasions. Mostly, we were able to find decent places to stay, at prices in the range of $5-12 per person. Cheap, good food was also widely available but not early in the morning or in most of the parks/ reserves. Costs were generally higher than elsewhere in S America but cheaper than at home, at least in Chile.


Narosky, T. & Yzurieta, D. 1993 Birds of Argentina and Uruguay. Vazquez Mazzini Editores.

Good, brief text but poor plates

De la Pena, M.R. & Rumboll, M. 1998 Collins illustrated checklist: birds of southern South America and Antarctica. Collins. Disappointing but only colour illustrations of Chilean endemics, apart from those in Ridgeley & Tudor.

Ridgeley, R.S. & Tudor, G. 1989 & 1994 The birds of South America. Vols I & II. OUP.

Fjeldsa, J & Krabbe, N. 1990 Birds of the high Andes. Univ. of Copenhagen & Apollo Books.

plus family-type monographs.

Wheatley, N. 1994 Where to watch birds in South America. Christopher Helm.

Gardner, N. & D. 1990 A birder's guide to travel in Argentina.

Pearman, M. 1995 The essential guide to birding in Chile. Worldwide Publications.

Chile trip reports by Howell and Webb (1992), Gibbins & Sykes (1996) and Wright (1998).

Argentina trip reports by Molgaard (1993), Lynch & Carroll (1994), Vermeulen (1994) and Gooddie (1998).

Various articles published in Cotinga.

Recordings (available from Bird Songs International,

Egli, G. Voces de la Fauna Chilena. CDROM

Stranek, R. 1992 Canto de las aves. 5 tape cassettes of Argentinian birds.


The weather was generally good throughout, except for rain at Calilegua N.P. in NW Argentina. Temperatures varied from pretty cold (mainly at night in the mountains) to quite warm. A strong wind blew almost constantly in Patagonia.

The only health problem occurred when I stepped into an invisible bottomless hole full of boiling water at El Tatio. This gave a badly scolded ankle but it was better after a week, thanks to two professional dressings (at San Pedro and Pica).

No visas are required.

US dollars are accepted most of the time in Argentina but it is useful to have a float of pesos, eg given as change to dollar payments; 1 peso = $1. In Chile it is easy to change $ cash into pesos, but sterling and travellers cheques can be a problem and attract worse exchange rates. ATMs are the answer, available in all towns. Credit card may or may not be accepted - exchange rates are better than for cash at banks and cambios, eg 800 pesos to the pound, cf 730-770 at cambios.

National park and reserve entry fees vary from nothing to $16 (at Torres del Paine).


The older I get, the more I want to try to see everything new on a trip, and so the more help I seek. This time I was fortunate in that many people were generous with information and assistance, mainly through the wonder of email. Many thanks to Juan Mazar Barnett, Hernán and Andy Casañas, Rosendo Fraga, Chris Gooddie, Jorge Guzman, Martin Hunnybun, Alvaro Jaramillo, Barbara Knapton, Dave Pitman, German Pugnali, Martin Reid, David Rosair, Dave Sargeant, Luis Segura, Richard and Sarah Thomas, Keith Turner, Mark van Beirs, Claudio Vidal, Terry Witt, Barry Wright, and especially to Gonzalo and Pati Gonzáles, with Juan Carlos and Marina, for their generous hospitality and assistance.


The itinerary worked well, although had I been going to Ushuaia it would have been better to leave Chile from Tierra del Fuego, eg on the bus from Punta Arenas to Ushuaia. The only problems were:-

1. There are now only 2 buses a week, on Tues and Friday, from NW Argentina (Salta and Jujuy) to Chile (San Pedro de Atacama) and no flights, so I had to leave 2 days earlier than intended.

2. I was unable to get an overnight bus from Córdoba to Salta, or even Tucuman which would have helped, at short notice and so lost a day on this journey. I could have pre-booked a flight at a reasonable cost but did not want to commit myself to a specific date in advance, which would have been necessary. Last minute or fully flexible flight costs are high in Argentina, perhaps $140+ in this case (cf $30 on bus).

3. Had to abort the plan for a long day trip to see Hooded Grebe as the local contact failed to show with the detailed gen.

The use of LAN Chile meant that I had to fly to Santiago first. As there would have been a long wait for the flight to Córdoba, I elected to overnight in Santiago. My local contact, Gonzalo Gonzáles, very kindly offered to take me birding, as it was the weekend. We visited wetlands rather than the mountains because late snow had made roads and birding difficult there.

October 7 Arrived in Santiago. Met by Gonzalo and Juan Carlos, visited the private San Raphael Dam and another wetland. Excellent meal and slide show at Gonzalo's flat in the evening. Night at Hotel Vegas, Santiago.

October 8 08.40-11.10 flight to Córdoba, Argentina. Met by Hernán Casañas and drove to Sierra Grande, beyond Icho Cruz, birding 13.30-16.30, then to Hernán's farm at La Cumbre, where camped.

October 9 Birded around Hernán's property, then El 44 and Estáncia Giovanini, camping again at La Cumbre.

October 10 05.45-13.30 drove to Talampaya N.P. NP with a few stops; afternoon in canyon. Dossed on veranda of restaurant/ visitor centre.

October 11 06.30-09.30 in NP, then drove to Chancani Reserve with stops, arriving 18.30. 19.45-10.15 owling; night in reserve hostel.

October 12 06.15-08.30 on reserve; 09.00-12.30 drove to La Cumbre. Farewell to Hernán, 17.00-19.00 bus to Córdoba; no room on overnight buses so had to stay, Res. El Cielo.

October 13 08.30-22.45 bus to Salta; night at Maria de Toffoli's casa.

October 14 Car from Hertz, 10.00-18.00 drove to Abra del Infiernillo via Cafayate, with stops. Birded Km 80 canyon then to Tafi; Hosp. Celia Correa.

October 15 07.30-10.00 down Río Solsos then back up to Km 78 and 80 canyons. 13.00-19.00 drove to Salta with stop at Quilmes ruins; Maria de Toffoli's.

October 16 07.00-10.00 drove to Calilegua N.P., then slowly up to the top and back. Stayed till dusk but decided against camping, due to rain, so drove to San Pedro (21.30), Hotel Alex.

October 17 06.25-09.45 drove to JV Gonzáles and up Km 14 & 17 tracks till 14.00. Drove to Termas de Reyes via Jujuy, arriving 18.15; camped by river, after thermal bath.

October 18 07.00-11.00 slow drive to Yala with stops, then to Calilegua N.P. via Jujuy, arriving 15.30. Drove up to second ranger station, pitched tent but with heavy rain, moved further down.

October 19 06.00-09.30 birded Sendero Lagunita area, then drove to Salta via Jujuy and Abra Santa Laura, arriving 15.00; Dora Batista's casa.

October 20 07.00-17.30 bus to San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, via Paso Jama. Night at Res. Chiloe.

October 21 09.00-19.30 day trip to Laguna Colorada, Bolivia ($16). Res. Chiloe.

October 22 07.00-19.00 day trip to Salar de Atacama and Lagunas Meniques and Miscanti ($36); Res. Chiloe.

October 23 04.00-07.25 tour bus to El Tatio, then day in the area; evening & night at Refugio.

October 24 07.00-08.00 walked to geysers. 10.00-12.15 tour bus to San Pedro. 16.00-20.15 tour to Valle de Luna ($7); Res. Chiloe.

October 25 Chilled out, then lift to Calama; Hotel Mirador.

October 26 06.50-13.00 Turbus to Iquique, birded port area; met up with Andy; Hostal Catedral.

October 27 08.00-10.30 bus to Pica, birded for conebill, hitched back to Iquique, arriving at 14.00. 15.30-20.00 bus to Arica; Chez Charlie.

October 28 07.30 collectivo to San Miguel de Azapa; birded till 11.30, taxi back to Arica. Collected hire-car, drove to Lluta and Azapa Valleys, then airport to meet Gra and Phil at 18.30. Drove to Putre, arriving 21.00; La Polomeria.

October 29 07.00-10.00 birded canyons around Putre, then day in Lauca NP till 18.00; La Polomeria.

October 30 07.00-12.30 Lauca NP, then Putre canyons before driving down to Arica and Azapa Valley; Res. Pacifico.

October 31 07.15-10.00 Azapa Valley, then Alacran Peninsula till 12.30. 14.50-18.00 flight to Santiago. 19.00-22.00 drove to El Yeso; camped.

November 1 06.30-15.00 El Yeso to dam and back, then drove to Río Clarillo reserve where did trails 16.30-19.00 (closing time). Birded scrub nearby then drove through Santiago to La Campana NP, arriving 23.45; dossed on office veranda.

November 2 06.30-09.00 in lower part, then higher on Mine trail, back to lower late afternoon till 19.30, then owling 20.30-21.30; night in cabana at Hostería Aire Pura, Granizo.

November 3 05.30-06.30 owling, then lower part till 08.00. Drove to Concon, birding the Río Aconcágua mouth, then to Laguna El Peral where birded 13.00-14.45. Drove back to Concon via Lago Penuelas, till evicted, then to laguna by railway N of Concon, and finally to Quintero, arriving at 20.00. Met Gonzalo's party at 21.00 and stayed at their pad.

November 4 08.00-13.30 pelagic. After lunch, power station laguna, Quintero headland, then drove to La Campana, trying again for Pygmy-Owl; cabana at Montañas de Olme.

November 5 06.40-09.00 drove to Fallerones ski resort area, birding up here till mid afternoon when drove down to Santiago airport. 18.40-19.30 flight to Concepción, 20.15-22.15 drove to Angol; Hostería Olympia.

November 6 07.00-08.00 to Vegas Blancas, birded all morning, then to Nahuelbuta NP. 15.00-17.30 Sendero Coimallin, 20.00-21.45 owling; camped.

November 7 07.00-09.30 Sendero Coimallin, then Sendero Piedra de Aguila, leaving for Angol at 13.30. 16.30-21.30 drove down Pan Am Highway to Osorno; Hostería Werber

November 8 06.00-07.00 to Entre Lagos + 12km for Slender-billed Parakeets, then to Puyehue for the day. 16.30-22.00 to Angol; Hostería Olympia.

November 9 06.15 to Nahuelbuta, 08.15-12.30 Sendero Piedra de Aguila. 14.00-17.40 to Angol, Los Angeles and Abanico, then to Laguna Laja reservoir and Huet-huet site A; Hostería El Bosque, Abanico.

November 10 07.00-08.30 search for Huet-huet at site A; 11.00-13.30 returned after breakfast and puncture repair, then to site B till 17.30. 3 hour drive to Conce; Res. Metro.

November 11 08.00-11.00 search for Bio-bio river mouth, spending most time at bay west of Talcahuanco. 14.15-17.00 flight to Punta Arenas. 17.45-21.00 to Sena Otway penguin colony and Punta Arenas town; drinks with Graham Palmer and Sandra and David Milton; night at house owned by Hostería Central (on Espania).

November 12 08.00 to Porvenir ferry, crossing 09.30-13.00. North to Km 19 for Meg. Plover, then 15.00-20.30 drove 90km, mainly east, and back over hills; Hostal Colón.

November 13 07.30-09.00 coastal roads; 09.30-12.30 north to Bahia Azul, birded dunes. 13.45-14.15 ferry to Pta Delgado, visited shag breeding cliffs, then to Pta Dungeness with stops. Left at 20.00 after an hour; camped at 21.15.

November 14 06.30 drove back, with stops, diverting up PN Pali Aike road for 8km, for Canary-winged Finch, reaching Punta Arenas at 15.00. Found Claudio Vidal in Fantastico Sur Office, for more gen; time-consuming change to international flight dates, so opted for food and drink instead of birding; Hostería Central house again.

November 15 06.15 to Laguna Parillas, 07.30-08.30, then S to Río Amarillo and back to Punta Arenas at 09.30. 10.30-12.30 north to Pta Prat road, then along Pta Delgado road to Dinamarqueros turn, spending afternoon along here. 17.30-20.00 to Puerto Natales; Patagonian Adventures hostal.

November 16 07.00-09.30 to La Cumbres, walking in hills here till 14.15. Entered Torres del Paine NP at Laguna Amarga and on to Hostería Torres. Long search for Bubo rewarded at 18.00, then to Lago Sarmiento entrance for Austral Rail, heard only. Drove to Posada Río Serrano for meal, staying nearby at Refugio Lago Toro.

November 17 07.00 to Lago Grey, then back to Lago Sarmiento entrance for another attempt on Austral Rail. 11.30-14.00 to Puerto Natales, farewell pizza with Gra and Phil, walk along coast; Casa Teresa.

November 18 07.00-08.00 coastal walk; 09.00-13.45 bus to El Calafate, Argentina. Long search for Luciano succeeded at 21.00 – Horned Grebe maps promised for morrow. Chat with Richard and Sarah Thomas, met by chance; Host. Los Dos Pinos.

November 19 06.30-07.30 Laguna Nimes. 08.00-16.45 Moreno Glacier tour ($25). 17.00-19.00 circuit of L. Nimes, Luciano failed to show.

November 20 07.00-09.30 to Río Bote with Thomases but no Patagonian Tinamou. 13.15-17.15 bus to Río Gallegos, long walk on sea-front. 20.00 bus departure for Trelew.

November 21 07.00-07.30 stop at Comodoro Rivadavia – birded seafront and saw the Thomases again; arrived Trelew 11.45. Hired car from Localiza and drove to Pto Piramides, Valdez peninsula, with stops. Whale watched from point; Hos. El Español.

November 22 06.15 to Pta Norte with stops, then down east coast to Caleta Valdés; sea-watched for Orcas then back to Pto Piramides at 17.00. Walked in low hills on edge of town. Hos. El Español.

November 23 05.30 up for early departure to San Antonio Oeste but unable to go due to loss of bag. 08.00-10.00 birded scrub near the road junction; left at 13.00 when bag found, for Isla de Pajeros. After much scrub-bashing, drove to Pto Madryn and 5-7km E up coastal dirt road; after good birding here, returned to Trelew at 19.30; Hotel Avenida.

November 24 05.40-07.30 to Punta Tombo; had to wait till 07.55 for gates to penguin reserve to be opened. In reserve till 09.35 when returned to Trelew. Dropped car off; went to bus station for 12.45 to Buenos Aires, only to discover it was delayed till 18.00 due to general strike. Walked round nearby Laguna Cacique Chiquichano, then chilled out in town – most shops and restaurants were closed. Bus finally left at 18.30.

November 25 From 05.00 birded the pampas and wetlands from the bus, arriving Buenos Aires at 13.30. Taxi to Hotel O'Rei (Maipu/ Lavalle); 17.00-19.45 Costanera Sur.

November 26 07.10 Andy returned as I left, soon meeting Graham Palmer! We walked to Costanera Sur and birded till 12.00. Visited San Pedro district till 15.00 when returned to CS till 19.00; excellent Chinese buffet.

November 27 Flight home.


The main birding sites in the north and centre are well covered in Pearman's book, and Barry Wright's report gives useful additional gen.


The Azapa valley held many flowering eucalypts, some of which were alive with Peruvian Sheartails and Oasis Hummingbirds, but finding Chilean Woodstar was a different story. The best place appears to be the hedge of blue and yellow flowers along the main road at Km 9. Orchards along the dry riverbed produced Peruvian Thick-knee and Chestnut-throated Seedeater.

According to Terry Witt, Tamarugo Conebill can be seen in the Chaca Valley “a dry river bed about 1/2 hour south of Arica at an elevation of 400 feet. We first listened for the song and then played tape, if the weather is OK, you can hear them from afar. I think the population may be somewhat localized.”


The valley on the edge of town was good for hummingbirds and held a pygmy-owl, which is considered to be Peruvian Glaucidium peruanum, despite the high elevation (A.Jamarillo in litt.). We could not find the Bubo which roosts somewhere in the tall eucalypts. The valley above the town, accessed from the road in, yielded several Earthcreepers, two of which were seen simultaneously, making identification of one of them as White-throated Earthcreeper fairly easy.


All the key birds were seen here, including the rare White-tailed Shrike-Tyrant (a few km beyond the small village of Parinacota along the track to L. de Cotactani), except Red-backed Sierra Finch. Golden-spotted Ground-Dove was only seen in and around the village of Chucuyo.

San Pedro de Atacama

This area does not feature in most birders' tours but is worthwhile if you have the time. It is a tourist honeypot and daily tours take off for a variety of destinations. The most important is Lagunas Menique and Miscanti, where Horned Coot breed annually; other reliable sites in Bolivia and Argentina are more difficult to reach. The tour will stop at Salar de Atacama, where Andean Flamingos and waders are numerous, and the villages of Sociare and Toconao where there are a few birds in the vegetation. Another good site is El Tatio, served by tours every day, where Red-backed Sierra-Finch can be found in the hills and wet area beyond the spectacular geysers. It should be possible to find them in the 3 hours of daylight the tour spends here, but if you want to be sure, arrange to stay overnight and be picked up the following morning – there is a refúgio with beds and a stove, but no food, some 3km back up the road. You could then visit the promising-looking bog in the canyon a mile away northish, perpendicular to the main road. It is possible to hire vehicles in San Pedro, for more flexibility.

The other possibility is to take a tour to Laguna Colorada in Bolivia, where Puna Flamingo breed in large numbers. I did this on a day trip and saw Red-backed Sierra-Finch on the way. The other alternative is to visit it on the way to stay in Bolivia – there are 3-day trips to Uyuni, crossing the famous Salar de Uyuni, from where you can start a bird-tour of Bolivia.

Tamarugo Conebill occurs in Tamarugo plantations, which are found along the Pan Am Highway both N and S of the west turn to Iquique, but an easy site by public transport is the village of Pica (buses from the main mercado at Iquique). We saw it best at the southeast end of the village, in big bushes, not Tamarugo trees.


There are a number of sites near here, foremost being El Yeso and Fallerones.

El Yeso

We spent most of a day here, only going up the dirt road as far as the inlet end of the reservoir: White-sisded Hillstar, Chilean Flicker and Turca near the start of the road; Crag Chilia at Km 4 from the start of the road and where the road crosses a stream near a waterfall; Lesser Canastero, Rufous-banded Miner, Grey-flanked Cinclodes (near the dam), and many Greater Yellow-finches and White-browed Ground-Tyrants from Km 14 onwards. The latter may have been lower (c2550m) than normal due the unseasonally heavy snow around. We did not try for Sandpiper-Plover, having seen it well at Lauca.


Not mentioned by Pearman, this is a more reliable site for Creamy-rumped Miner than Portillo. It is the main ski resort area east of Santiago and is well signed from the city. We saw the miner at the northern resort of La Parva, on an arid slope just beyond the resort. Crag Chilia were at 2040m in a shallow valley with remnant polylepis just above a large Sprite sign.

Other sites include:-

Río Clarillo, a nice reserve fairly close to El Yeso, and said to be good for Chilean Tinamou, White-throated and Dusky Tapaculos and Chilean Pigeon. We only saw the last two in a rather brief afternoon visit. Go to Puente Alto, south to Pirque and on to a T junction; turn right, then first tarred road left (signed to CONAF reserve), follow the tar to El Principal, turn left at T junction, still on tar which leads to dirt and the reserve, only open till 7 p.m.

wetlands such as the excellent San Raphael Dam, teeming with waterbirds including Black-headed Duck, but private access – contact Gonzalo G if you want to go

Parque National La Campana

Although I have no doubt this can be a good site, as Barry says, we found it disappointing as the only birds we saw here and not elsewhere were White-throated Tapaculo (which gave me a hard time) and Chilean Hawk. Other than the common Turcas, we only heard a single tapaculo calling. Much time was wasted trying to see the 2 owls: Pygmies were vocal on the hillside beyond the southern car park, but would not show, although we did spot Chilean Tinamou here, Chilean Pigeon were common and a Chilean Hawk flew round on the first evening; Red-legged Owl was not tape-responsive. Fortunately, a very responsive Glaucidium was found below the park in the grounds of our last cabana.

Laguna El Peral

A good site for Stripe-backed Bittern, Black-headed Duck and Rufous-tailed Plantcutter.

We visited P.N. Lago Penuelas on the way back, as the entrance was close to the main road, but after being allowed in, were told to leave by a ranger who followed us out on horse-back. Chilean Tinamou was the only interesting bird we saw. It is open at weekends.

Río Aconcágua

Pearman's map is not very helpful here, unless you want to spend all day walking along the railway. We managed to access the river mouth by crashing in on the left before reaching the railway line; there were plenty of birds but nothing out the ordinary. Later we drove north for 5-6 km till we saw the railway bridge on the left over the river, then turned left though an open gate with a padlock and past some strange-looking buildings/ houses. We walked across the dunes to the railway, over the bridge and up the track for 2 km. There was not much on the laguna but the main target, Great Shrike-Tyrant, was seen, perched on large bushes.

Pelagic off Quintero

Thanks to Roberto and Juan-Carlos, we had an excellent 5.5 hour pelagic trip, in the harbour-tour boat, well equipped with chum, at a total cost of c.$100. Although only going out some 5 miles, we saw 3 Pterodroma and albatross species and had very close views of both Giant Petrels and Procellarias, Cape Petrel, Southern Fulmar, Sooty and Pink-footed Shearwaters, Peruvian Diving-Petrel and Chilean Skua. The only slight disappointment was the unusual absence of Wilson's Storm-Petrel. We are confident that we saw Arctic Terns - other reports only mention South American Tern.


This is the area for most of the tapaculos and goodies such as Slender-billed Parakeet and Magellanic Woodpecker. You can start at either end, or at Temuco in between. Key sites are as follows.

Parque National Laguna Laja

A key site for Chestnut-throated Huet Huet, which most people see at Pearman's site A. We spent all morning here without spotting any, so had to go to site B where we eventually saw it. PG had the best views – in a small patch of bamboo near the top of the track up the valley – while the rest of us carried on over the “pass” and up the stream on the other side where the sneaky birds gave us a merry dance. Spectacled Duck was in the stream by the dam on the right hand side of the road early in the morning, but was not seen on the other two occasions we checked the dam. Great Shrike-Tyrant is seen on the upper slopes further into the park, and Yellow-bridled Finch occurs according to Pearman although I have never heard of anyone seeing it, and we didn't have time to look.

According to Juan-Carlos, the Huet-huet is more easily seen north of Conce, at Vilches, east of Talca, and at Los Ruiles Nature Reserve on the Constitucion road NW of Cauquenes.

Parque National Nahuelbuta

This beautiful forest was one of the highlights of the trip, giving White-throated Hawk, Rufous-legged Owl, Green-backed Firecrown, Striped and Magellanic Woodpeckers, Black-throated Huet-huet, Chucao, Ochre-flanked and Magellanic Tapaculos and Patagonian Tyrant. The Sierra-Finches singing from trees here were Patagonian, not the similar Grey-hooded which occur in more open conditions. Slender-billed Parakeet is not here now, irrespective of what Pearman and some other reports say. Barry et al had tapaculos at Vegas Blancas on the way, but we found it a waste of time. There are two trails starting near the information center, both good. The best area for Magellanic Woodpecker seems to be the upper stretch of Piedra del Aguila trail, where we located 2 groups of 4 birds on our second visit. We spent hours watching the forest canopy in the hope of seeing Rufous-tailed Hawk, claimed by one group, or Magellanic Woodpecker, but without success. Rufous-legged Owl was very tape-responsive at dusk (21.10), 300-400m before the main fork in the track (the left fork leading to the information centre) when coming from the entrance gate.

Note that there is no accommodation or source of food here. It was very cold the night we camped, though a large fire was helpful, and we had to leave the next day as we ran out of food. There is a hostería some 10km from the entrance back along the road to Angol, but this is a time-consuming drive in a standard car.

Parque National Puyehue

We had not intended to visit this popular NP but the German birder who had kindly given us the successful Red-legged Owl site said the only place he had found Slender-billed Parakeet was in fields just before here. We had Barry's site near PN Conguillio, much nearer but not so certain and some distance along dirt roads, so we decided to go to Puyehue instead and try there for Magellanic Woodpecker, Des Murs' Wiretail and Rufous-tailed Hawk, all unseen at Nahuelbuta. The parakeets were in a ploughed field on the right 12 km beyond the last house in Entre Lagos, 170+ at 07.00, 30+ at 16.30. At Puyehue, we drove and walked up the road to Antillanca, spending some time at Lago El Encanto. Here we had the Wiretail and heard the woodpecker, briefly, and Patagonian Tyrant. We had nothing of note further up. On the way down, a large immature buteo flew out of the forest and across the road but could not be located. It was unlike any of the many Variable Hawks seen, all of which were in more open habitats, and so was likely to have been the elusive Rufous-tailed Hawk.

Other sites worth checking are Cerro Nieol, next to the city of Temuco, where there is a healthy population of Black-throated Huet Huet and Chilean Pigeon, and Rufous-tailed Hawk can occur, and the bay north of Conce. To reach the latter, drive north to Talcahuanco and turn left towards the port, past pools near a chemical plant which held a variety of wildfowl including our only Silver Teal, to the coastal bay and wetland. We saw Snowy-crowned Tern here and many distant shearwaters, etc.

Punta Arenas

The ferries to and from Tierra del Fuego were not very rewarding. We drove along the eastern coastal road from Porvenir to a cormorant breeding colony on an old jetty before Onaisin, passing lagunas where Hooded Grebe has been seen on a couple of occasions, a beached King Penguin after c.40 km, and our only Ruddy-headed Geese in a goose flock. We returned on the rougher road through the hills, finding Rufous-chested Dotterel 35 km from Porvenir at a spot marked by big heaps of shingle and an iron post set in a large concrete base. These hills also hold White-breasted Seedsnipe and Canary-winged Finch, according to Claudio Vidal.

Our only Kelp Geese were just north of Porvenir, but we could not find Flightless Steamerduck. A large laguna 19 Km north held Magellanic Plover, but nothing else of note was seen en route to the Bahia Azul – Pta Delgado ferry. Magellanic Horned Owls are reputed to sit on posts in the daytime on Tierra del Fuego, but not for us.

We failed to find Snowy Sheathbill at Pta Delgado, hearing later they had left 2 weeks earlier, and so drove the 100+ km to Punta Dungeness, failing on Sheathbill again. This road was not very productive: we eventually found Austral Canastero at Km 24 but not Chocolate-vented Tyrant, though Cinnamon-bellied Ground-Tyrant was common. The “travel lodge” near the Pta Dungeness turn-off from the main road to the border was shut but there was a restaurant at the junction. There was one other along the Pta Dungeness road, at the new oil town of Posesión, along with a shop and petrol station. Following a tip from both Alvaro and Gonzalo, we took the road from the above junction to PN Pali Aiki (signed) and after 8 km of minefields found Canary-winged Finch, plus Rufous-chested Dotterel and Chocolate-vented Tyrant.

We later learnt from Claudio that we should have looked for Tawny-throated Dotterel and Least Seedsnipe, which the others needed, at the start of the Pta Delgado road and main road. We did try his other site, turning left at the crossroads on the Dinamarqueros road, some 35 km after the start of the road to the border forks off the Pta Arenas - Pto Natales road (and 1-2 km after Estáncia Júlia on the left). After a lot of walking we did see both dotterels c.1 km along this dirt road, but failed to find Band-tailed Earthcreeper at Estáncia Luz Aurora, where 1 pair has been seen, another 15-20 km up the dirt road. The right hand turn at the crossroads goes to Pta Oazy, where Ruddy-headed Goose occurs (at Estáncia Oazy Harbour).

We finally saw Flightless Steamerduck at Río Amarillo some 35km south of Punta Arenas. We looked unsuccessfully for Rufous-tailed Hawk at Laguna Parrillas, a west turn 30km south of PA (Grey-flanked Cinclodes was there) and along the road to Pta Prat, a west turn north of the Sena Otway turn off the main road – sites recommended by Claudio.

Parque National Torres del Paine

Key birds for us here were Mag. Horned Owl and Austral Rail. After a considerable search we found the owl at Claudio's site in the open woodland to the left of Hostería Torres, 7km from the Laguna Amarga entrance. The rail responded to the tape in the reeds at the sizeable laguna just inside the Lago Sarmiento entrance but was too far into the reeds for there to be any chance of seeing it. It does occur in other reedy lagunas in the park. I saw Patagonian Mockingbird at Posada Río Serrano, and it also occurs near both entrance gates. Magellanic Woodpecker occurs in the remnant forest, but we did not look for it.

If you continue north instead of turning west into the Park, the road continues for c.60km to La Cumbres in the Sierra Baguales. This area holds White-throated Caracara, White-bellied Seedsnipe and Yellow-bridled Finch - difficult birds in Chile. A morning here only produced the caracara, although the best habitat appeared to be on the other side of a raging torrent with no obvious way across.


Taxonomy and names as in Birds of the World: a Checklist by JF Clements (2000), with endemics in bold.

LESSER RHEA Rhea pennata pennata

Fairly common in the south with up to 20 daily.

PUNA RHEA Rhea pennata tarapacensis

One in Lauca on 29th and 5 on 30th Oct.

CHILEAN TINAMOU Nothoprocta perdicaria

One at La Campana, with others heard, and 2 at Lago Penuelas; heard near Río Clarillo and Vegas Blancas, along Santiago-Fallerones road and at Slender-billed Parakeet site.

PUNA TINAMOU Tinamotis pentlandii

Three at Lauca on the slopes above Parinacota and 1 with 5 chicks by the main road.

KING PENGUIN Aptenodytes patagonicus

One on Tierra del Fuego, c.40km east of Porvenir.

HUMBOLDT PENGUIN Spheniscus humboldti

3 on the pelagic and 1 offshore at Arica. 2 penguins offshore at Conce could have been this species or the next.

MAGELLANIC PENGUIN Spenicus magellanicus

Numerous at Sena Otway colony and a few offshore in the south.

PIED-BILLED GREBE Podilymbus podiceps

Three at Puyehue and 2 at Conce.

WHITE-TUFTED GREBE Rollandia rolland

Common at Laguna El Peral and Lago Penuelas, and a few elsewhere.

SILVERY GREBE Podilymbus occipitalis

Common on lagunas in the northern Andes and near Santiago, tight flocks of c.50 at Conce and Tierra del Fuego, and a few elsewhere.

GREAT GREBE Podilymbus major

4 at Laguna El Peral, 1 Puyehue, 6 Conce and up to 16 a day in the south.

BULLER'S ALBATROSS Thalassarche bulleri

2 fly-pasts on the pelagic. [They were identified at the time as Grey-headed, which is very similar at a distance, but this sp. is unlikely to occur this far N.]

BLACK-BROWED ALBATROSS Thalassarche melanophris

Several on the pelagic; common on Punta Arenas – Porvenir ferry and a few offshore in the south.

SHY (SALVIN'S) ALBATROSS Thalassarche cauta

A minimum of 15 at close range on the pelagic.

HALL'S GIANT PETREL Macronectes halli

One on the pelagic.

ANTARCTIC GIANT PETREL Macronectes giganteus

5 on the pelagic, common in the channel crossing to and from Tierra del Fuego, and singles at Porvenir and Puerto Natales.

SOUTHERN FULMAR Fulmarus glacialoides

3 on the pelagic and 20 from the Punta Arenas ferry crossing.

CAPE PETREL Daption capense

c.10 on the pelagic and 1 from the Punta Arenas ferry crossing.

JUAN FERNANDEZ PETREL Pterodroma externa

One on the pelagic.

DEFILIPPE'S PETREL Pterodroma defilippiana

Probably the majority of the 20+ Pterodromas seen on the pelagic were this sp. - one was photographed.

STEJNEGER'S PETREL Pterodroma longirostris

A few on the pelagic.

WHITE-CHINNED PETREL Procellaria aequinoctialis

c.10 on the pelagic and 5+ from the Punta Arenas ferry crossing.

WESTLAND PETREL Procellaria westlandica

c.10 on the pelagic.

SOOTY SHEARWATER Puffinus griseus

Common on the pelagic. Shearwaters were common well offshore at Iquique and Conce and the few that could be identified were all this species.


Common on the pelagic.

WILSON'S STORM-PETREL Oceanites oceanicus

Only 1 noted, off Arica.

MAGELLANIC DIVING-PETREL Pelacanoides magellani

c.20 Punta Arenas to Porvenir ferry.

PERUVIAN DIVING-PETREL Pelacanoides garnotii

One off Arica and 4 on the pelagic.

PERUVIAN PELICAN Pelacanus thagus

Common off Arica - Conce.

PERUVIAN BOOBY Sula variegata

Common off Arica - Conce.

NEOTROPIC CORMORANT Phalacrocorax brasilianus

Common off Arica – Conce, with a breeding colony at Quintero, and small numbers inland throughout.

ROCK SHAG Phalacrocorax magellanicus

2+ off Conce and common in the south.

IMPERIAL SHAG Phalacrocorax atriceps

Very common off Puerto Natales and on Tierra del Fuego.

GUANAY CORMORANT Phalacrocorax bougainvillii

Common off Arica; 2 off Quintero.

RED-LEGGED CORMORANT Phalacrocorax gaimardi

3 off Arica, a few off Conce and 1 on Tierra del Fuego.

GREAT EGRET Casmerodius alba

3 near Santiago on 7 Oct and at least 2 singles elsewhere in the central region.

SNOWY EGRET Egretta thula

6 near Santiago, 2 near Arica, a few Laguna El Peral and singles elsewhere in the central region.

CATTLE EGRET Bubulcus ibis

A few near Santiago, 10 Azapa Valley and common (nesting) at Laguna El Peral.

BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT HERON Nycticorax nycticorax

10+ at Laguna El Peral and a few elsewhere, from Arica to the far south.

STRIPE-BACKED BITTERN Ixobrychus involucris

2 near Santiago on 7th Oct, 1 at Laguna El Peral and 2 at laguna N of Río Aconcágua.

PUNA IBIS Plegadis ridgwayi

c.10 in Lauca.

BLACK-FACED IBIS Theristicus melanopis

First seen south of Conce, then common in Puyehue area and throughout the south.

CHILEAN FLAMINGO Phoenicopterus chilensis

Common in Lauca and a few on Laguna Miscanti and in the south.

ANDEAN FLAMINGO Phoenicopterus andinus

Numerous at Salar de Atacama and a few in Bolivia.

PUNA FLAMINGO Phoenicopterus jamesi

Numerous at Laguna Colorada, Bolivia and c.10 immatures at Lauca.

COSCOROBA SWAN Coscoroba coscoroba

Up to 40 daily in the south but none in Torres del Paine.

BLACK-NECKED SWAN Cygnus melanocorypha

Fairly common near Santiago, at Laguna El Peral, Pto Natales and Torres del Paine.

ANDEAN GOOSE Chloephaga melanoptera

Common in Lauca, 20 at El Tatio.

UPLAND GOOSE Chloephaga picta

Common throughout the south.

KELP GOOSE Cholephaga hybrida

Only 3, near the ferry at Porvenir.

ASHY-HEADED GOOSE Chloephaga poliocephala

8 near Sena Otway, 10 on Tierra del Fuego, 4 at Laguna Parillas.

RUDDY-HEADED GOOSE Chloephaga rubidiceps

Only 2, on Tierra del Fuego.

FLYING STEAMERDUCK Tachyeres petachonicus

One at Lago El Encanto, Puyehue; single pairs daily in the south, with 9 along the coast from Pta Dungeness – Pta Arenas.


A pair at Río Amarillo south of Pta Arenas.


One at El Yeso and a pair at Laguna Laja dam.

CHILOE WIGEON Anas sibilatrix

30+ near Santiago on 7 Oct, 2 L. El Peral and Lago Penuelas, 6 Quintero power station; fairly common in the south, especially in Torres del Paine.

CRESTED DUCK Anas specularoides

Common in Lauca and the south, with a few on Lagunas Miscanti and Menique.

SPECTACLED DUCK Anas specularis

2 at Laguna Laja dam.

SPECKLED TEAL Anas flavirostris

Common in Lauca and the south, with a few at Laguna Laja dam.


Fairly common near Santiago, at Laguna El Peral and at Conce, a few at Lauca and 2 at Torres del Paine.


One at San Raphael Dam, Santiago.

PUNA TEAL Anas puna

A few at Lauca.

SILVER TEAL Anas versicolor

2 at Conce.

CINNAMON TEAL Anas cyanoptera

8 at San Raphael Dam, Santiago.

RED SHOVELER Anas platalea

Common at San Raphael Dam and Laguna El Peral, 2 pairs in Torres del Paine.


8 San Raphael Dam.

BLACK-HEADED DUCK Heteronetta atricapilla

2 at San Raphael Dam and Laguna El Peral.

ANDEAN DUCK Oxyura ferruginea

10+ at Lauca.

LAKE DUCK Oxyura vittata

Common at San Raphael Dam, Laguna El Peral and Conce; a few near Puerto Natales and at Torres del Paine.

BLACK VULTURE Coragyps atratus

Singles at Nahuelbuta and Puyehue and a few at Conce were all that were noted.

TURKEY VULTURE Catharates aura

Very common in the north, fairly common in the Santiago area, and a few at Puyehue and Conce.

ANDEAN CONDOR Vultur gryphus

2 at Lauca, El Yeso, Pta Prat road and Torres del Paine; 20 together in a field en route to Torres del Paine.


Up to 8 daily in the south, with 1 nest-building in the rail marsh at Torres del Paine.

CHILEAN HAWK Accipiter chilensis

One flew round the lower area of La Campana towards dusk.

BLACK-CHESTED BUZZARD-EAGLE Geranoaetus melanoleucus

Singles near Fallerones and at Torres del Paine, and 2 immatures on Pta Prat road.


One at Nahuelbuta on 7 and 9 Nov.

VARIABLE HAWK Buteo polyosoma

6-8 at Putre-Lauca, up to 5 most days in the central region and 2 on Tierra del Fuego.

[RUFOUS-TAILED HAWK Buteo ventralis]

An immature buteo flying across the road at Puyehue could well have been this sp.

MOUNTAIN CARACARA Phalcoboenus carunculatus

2 singles at Lauca and 1 at Fallerones.

WHITE-THROATED CARACARA Phalcoboenus albogularis

One at La Cumbres.


3+ at Puyehue, 1 at Nahuelbuta and fairly common in the south.

CHIMANGO CARACARA Milvago chimango

Common throughout the central region, with a max of 150 in the Slender-billed Parakeet field, and a few in Torres del Paine.

AMERICAN KESTREL Falco sparverius

1 or 2 most days until the south where only 1 was seen, near Punta Arenas.

APLOMADO FALCON Falco femoralis

Singles in the Lluta Valley and at Lauca.

PEREGRINE FALCON Falco peregrinus

Singles at Iquique, Fallerones, Laguna Laja and near Punta Arenas.

AUSTRAL RAIL Rallus antarcticus

2 heard calling at Torres del Paine.

CALIFORNIAN QUAIL Callipepla californica

(Introduced). Fairly common throughout the central region.

PLUMBEOUS RAIL Pardirallus sanguinolentus

3 at Río Aconcágua and heard near Santiago.


4 at San Raphael Dam.

RED-GARTERED COOT Fulica armillata

10+ at San Raphael Dam, common at Laguna El Peral and Conce, and a few in Torres del Paine.

WHITE-WINGED COOT Fulica leucoptera

Common at San Raphael Dam and a few at Laguna El Peral.

SLATE-COLOURED COOT Fulica ardesiaca

A few at Lauca.

RED-FRONTED COOT Fulica rufifrons

A few at Laguna El Peral, Río Aconcágua and near Santiago and Conce.

GIANT COOT Fulica gigantea

Common at Lauca.

HORNED COOT Fulica cornuta

A few on Laguna Menique and 50+ on L. Miscanti, with only a few nesting at this time (22 Oct).


Fairly common in the south on fields and beaches.


10 on rocks off Arica and 1 at El Tabo.


10+ from Concon - Quintero.

WHITE-BACKED STILT Himantopus melanurus

20 near Santiago, 15 at Laguna El Peral, a few at Conce and at Laguna Chalviri in Bolivia.

ANDEAN AVOCET Recurvirostra andina

6 at Salar de Atacama and 10 at Lauca.

PERUVIAN THICK-KNEE Burhinus superciliaris

2 in an olive grove, Azapa valley, by the dry riverbed.

SOUTHERN LAPWING Vanellus chilensis

Fairly common throughout the centre and south.

ANDEAN LAPWING Vanellus resplendens

A few in Lauca.

TWO-BANDED PLOVER Charadrius falklandicus

Up to 8 daily south of Torres del Paine.

PUNA PLOVER Charadrius alticola

Common at Salar de Atacama, 6 at el Tatio and 10+ in Lauca.


Seven 35km east of Porvenir, 12 on the Pali Aike road and 4 near the Pta Delgado road.

TAWNY-THROATED DOTTEREL Oreopholus ruficollis

7 near the Pta Delgado road.


A pair at Lauca with 2 chicks in the bog close to the road, on the right just before the right turn-off to a mine 20km from the Putre turn.

MAGELLANIC PLOVER Pluvianellus socialis

2 at the edge of the lake near the Km19 post north of Porvenir. After watching these for some time, we did not bother to check similar habitat for more.

SOUTH AMERICAN SNIPE Gallinago paraguaiae

Two 35km east of Porvenir and 2 others “singing”, also heard along Pta Dungeness road.

WHIMBREL Numenius phaeopus

10 at Iquique and Quintero, 17 at Arica and 50 at Conce.

GREATER YELLOWLEGS Tringa melanoleuca

2 in Lauca, a few at L. El Peral/ Río Aconcágua and 50 at Conce.


Singles near Santiago and L. El Peral, and 50 at Conce.

HUDSONIAN GODWIT Limosa haemastica

6 at a laguna near the Pta Nagales and Pta Delgado road fork.

WILLET Catoptrophorus semipalmatus

One near Río Aconcágua mouth.

RUDDY TURNSTONE Arenaria interpres

Common at Iquique and Arica, 10 at Quintero.

SURFBIRD Aphriza virgata

100+ at Arica.

SANDERLING Calidris alba

6 at Quintero.

WHITE-RUMPED SANDPIPER Calidris fuscicollis

Common south of Torres del Paine.

BAIRD'S SANDPIPER Calidris bairdii

Common in the high Andes, locally common in the south and a few elsewhere.

WILSON'S PHALAROPE Phalaropus tricolor

8 at Lauca.

PHALAROPE sp. Phalaropus lobatus/ fulicaria

10 in flight on the pelagic. These were tentatively identified as RED-NECKED but could possibly have been RED/ GREY which is the species usually reported on such pelagics.

GREY-BREASTED SEEDSNIPE Thinocorus orbignyianus

10 at El Tatio and 20 at Lauca.

CHILEAN SKUA Catharacta chilensis

10 on the pelagic and up to 5 most days in the south.

DOLPHIN GULL Larus scoresbii

2 singles near Punta Arenas, 30 on Tierra del Fuego.

BAND-TAILED GULL Larus belcheri

Common on the coast and offshore in the north.

GREY GULL Larus modestus

Common on the coast in the north.

KELP GULL Larus dominicanus

Very common in the south and on the coast in the centre.

BROWN-HOODED GULL Larus maculipennis

Common at L. El Peral where breeding, and in the south, with a few elsewhere in the centre.

ANDEAN GULL Larus serranus

Small numbers throughout the high Andes.

FRANKLIN'S GULL Larus pipixcan

10 at Iquique, c.100 at Arica and a few at Conce.

SOUTH AMERICAN TERN Sterna hirundinacea

Fairly common in colonies on Tierra del Fuego and a few fishing offshore in the south.

ARCTIC TERN Sterna paradisaea

10+ on the pelagic.

ELEGANT TERN Sterna elegans

30+ at Iquique.

SNOWY-CROWNED TERN Sterna trudeaui

3 at Conce.

INCA TERN Larosterna inca

A few at Iquique, Arica and Conce.

BLACK SKIMMER Rynchops niger

5 at Arica and 20 at Río Aconcágua.

ROCK DOVE Columba livia

Common in cities.

CHILEAN PIGEON Columba araucana

7 at Río Clarillo, 14 at La Campana, 3 at Puyehue and Nahuelbuta.

EARED DOVE Zenaida auriculata

Common throughout the lowlands.


Common in the northern lowlands and a few in the verdant canyon near San Pedro de Atacama.

CROAKING GROUND-DOVE Columbina cruziana

Fairly common in the Azapa valley.

PICUI GROUND-DOVE Columbina picui

A few near Santiago and La Campana.

BARE-FACED GROUND-DOVE Metropelia ceciliae

Common in Putre - Lauca.

BLACK-WINGED GROUND-DOVE Metropelia melanoptera

A large flock of c.80 on the way down to San Pedro de Atacama from the border, 10 at Sociare and common at Putre.


8 at Chucuyo.

AUSTRAL PARAKEET Enicognathus ferrugineus

50 Vegas Blanca/ Nahuelbuta, a few at Puyehue and 4 at Lago Grey in Torres del Paine.

SLENDER-BILLED PARAKEET Enicognathus leptorynchus

170 on ploughed land near to Puyehue!

[MOUNTAIN PARAKEET Psilopsiagon aurifrons]

A total of 5 small parakeets flying over Azapa Valley were presumed to be this species.


Finally had crippling views of 1 at Torres del Paine, thanks to GS.


A pair seen well at Nahuelbuta; 1 heard at La Campana, near campsite number 8.

PERUVIAN PYGMY OWL Glaucidium peruanum

1 on the side of the dry valley below Putre.

AUSTRAL PYGMY OWL Glaucidium nanum

One at Montanas de Olme, near La Campana; 3 heard calling in the lower part of the Park with 1 seen briefly in flight.

BURROWING OWL Athene cunicularia

5 near Santiago and 1 near Putre.

BAND-WINGED NIGHTJAR Caprimulgus longirostris

I heard in the night at El Yeso.

ANDEAN SWIFT Aeronautes andecolus

5 at Lauca.

ANDEAN HILLSTAR Oreotrochilus estella

c.8 in the dry valley at Putre.

WHITE-SIDED HILLSTAR Oreotrochilus leucopleurus

3 at El Yeso.


3 in the dry valley at Putre, 1 at El Yeso and 3 at La Campana.

GREEN-BACKED FIRECROWN Sephanoides sephanoides

3 at La Campana, Nahuelbuta and Puyehue.


4 at Pica, 15-20+ in the Azapa valley.


Common in the Azapa valley.

CHILEAN WOODSTAR Eulidia yarrellii

A female in the Azapa valley on 28 Oct and a male on 31, probably with a female.


1 at Puyehue.

STRIPED WOODPECKER Picoides lignarius

2 at La Campana and Nahuelbuta.

CHILEAN FLICKER Colaptes pitius

2 at El Yeso, 5 at La Campana, 4 Angol-Vegas Blancas, 1 Nahuelbuta, 2 Puyehue and 1 at Torres del Paine.

ANDEAN FLICKER Colaptes rupicola

10 at Lauca.

MAGELLANIC WOODPECKER Campephilus magellanicus

1 male and 3 female-types (JH,PG) and 4 females (AM,GS) at Nahuelbuta, with another 2+ heard drumming; 1 heard briefly at Lago El Encanto, Puyehue.

PUNA MINER Geositta punensis

A few throughout the northern high Andes.

COMMON MINER Geositta cunicularia

A few at Lagunas Menique and Miscanti; fairly common in the south.

SHORT-BILLED MINER Geositta antarctica

Common on Tierra del Fuego and a few elsewhere in the south.

RUFOUS-BANDED MINER Geositta rufipennis

Common at El Yeso and Fallerones.

CREAMY-RUMPED MINER Geositta isabellina

2 at La Parva, near Fallerones.


4 at El Yeso and singles at Fallerones, Torres del Paine, near Punta Arenas and at La Cumbre.


Singles at Putre on 29 and 30 Oct, possibly the same bird.


Only 1, at Putre.


2 at Putre.

CRAG CHILIA Chilia melanura

5 at El Yeso; 2 below Fallerones (AM,GS).

CHILEAN SEASIDE CINCLODES Cinclodes nigrofumosus

1 at Quintero.

DARK-BELLIED CINCLODES Cinclodes patagonicus

One at Fallerones, 2 Vegas Blancas, 1 Puyehue, 3 Laguna Laja and 2 in Torres del Paine.

GREY-FLANKED CINCLODES Cinclodes oustaleti

2 at El Yeso and one at Laguna Parillas.


Fairly common at El Tatio and Lauca, 1 at Fallerones, 4 on Tierra del Fuego and a few in Torres del Paine.

WHITE-WINGED CINCLODES Cinclodes atacamensis

A few in Lauca.

DES MURS' WIRETAIL Sylviothorhynchus desmursii

One at Nahuelbuta (AM) and 1 heard; 2 at Lago El Encanto, Puyehue.

THORN-TAILED RAYADITO Aphrastura spinicauda

Common at Nahuelbuta and Puyehue, 4 at La Campana and a few at Torres del Paine.

STREAKED TIT-SPINETAIL Leptasthenura striata

2-3 at Putre.

PLAIN-MANTLED TIT-SPINETAIL Leptasthenura aegithaloides

Singles at Toconao and El Tatio, 2 at La Campana, 1 at L. La Laja and 1-2 on Dinamarqueros road.

WREN-LIKE RUSHBIRD Phleocryptes melanops

5 at El Peral and 2 at the rail marsh, Torres del Paine.

LESSER CANASTERO Asthenes pyrrholeuca

8 at El Yeso and 2 at Fallerones.


6 in the Putre area.


2+ at El Yeso and La Campana.


A few at Lauca, 3 at El Tatio, 1+ at La Cumbre.

AUSTRAL CANASTERO Asthenes anthoides

3+ at Km24 on the road to Punta Dungeness; 1 at Bahia Azul (GS).

WHITE-THROATED TREERUNNER Pygarrhichas albogularis

5+ at Nahuelbuta, one before Vegas Blancas.

CHESTNUT-THROATED HUET HUET Pteroptochos castaneus

2-3 in Laguna Laja.

BLACK-THROATED HUET HUET Pteroptochos tarnii

Upto 5 at Nahuelbuta and heard at Puyehue.

MOUSTACHED TURCA Pteroptochos megapodius

8 at El Yeso and 4+ at La Campana.

WHITE-THROATED TAPACULO Scelorchilus albicollis

One taped out at La Campana and only 1 other heard calling, briefly.

CHUCAO TAPACULO Scelorchilus rubecula

4 at Nahuelbuta, 2 at Vegas Blanca and singles at Puyehue and Laguna Laja.


One at Nahuelbuta and 2 others heard.


2 singles at Nahuelbuta with others heard, and heard at Puyehue.

DUSKY TAPACULO Scytalopus fuscus

2 at Río Clarillo and 1 in scrub near the coastal laguna north of Río Aconcágua.


3 at Laguna El Peral and a pair opposite Hostería El Bosque, Abanico (L.Laja), and heard at Puyehue.


One in the Azapa valley, a few at El Yeso, common at Laguna Laja, Puyehue and Nahuelbuta, and a few at Torres del Paine.

YELLOW-BILLED TIT-TYRANT Anaietes flavirostris

One at Putre in the dry valley near to town.

TUFTED TIT-TYRANT Anaietes parulus

4 at El Yeso, 6 at La Campana and 1 at Laguna Laja.

MANY-COLOURED RUSH-TYRANT Tachuris rubrigastra

5 near Santiago, 2 at L. El Peral and Río Aconcágua mouth.

VERMILION FLYCATCHER Pyrocephalus rubinus

6 in the Lhuta valley and 1 at Lago Penuelas.

PATAGONIAN TYRANT Colorhamphus parvirostris

One at Nahuelbuta and 1 heard at Lago El Encanto, Puyehue.

FIRE-EYED DIUCON Xolmis pyrope

First spotted at Río Clarillo, then up to 5 daily throughout the central region and a few in the south.

CHOCOLATE-VENTED TYRANT Neoxolmis rufiventris

Two 8km up the Pali Aike road, from Punta Dungeness, then 1 at the start of the road, (2 further back towards Pta Arenas, GS et al), 1 Pta Prat road, and 1 La Cumbres (GS).


Singles at Chucuyo (Lauca) and Fallerones. A flighty Agriornis on 2 occasionsat El Tatio was either this or the next species.


This rare species was spotted c.3km beyond Parinacota, Lauca by the rough dirt track towards the lakes. Identified by thick bill with pale lower mandible, heavily black-streaked throat and long tail.

GREAT SHRIKE-TYRANT Agriornis livida

2 in scrub near the coastal laguna north of Río Aconcágua.

SPOT-BILLED GROUND-TYRANT Muscisaxicola maculirostris

Singles at Laguna Menique and Putre.

DARK-FACED GROUND-TYRANT Muscisaxicola macloviana

One on a mud patch in the Laguna Laja dam.

CINNAMON-BELLIED GROUND-TYRANT Muscisaxicola maculirostris

5 on the road to Punta Dungeness on 13 Oct and 6 on the return journey, 1 on 15th and 2 at La Cumbres.

RUFOUS-NAPED GROUND-TYRANT Muscisaxicola rufivertex

Two singles in Lauca.

PUNA GROUND-TYRANT Muscisaxicola juninensis

Fairly common in Lauca.

WHITE-BROWED GROUND-TYRANT Muscisaxicola albilora

Numerous (20+) near the dam at El Yeso, 1 at Laguna Laja and 2 at Torres del Paine.

CINEREOUS GROUND-TYRANT Muscisaxicola cinerea

A few at Lagunas Menique and Miscanti and at El Tatio.

WHITE-FRONTED GROUND-TYRANT Muscisaxicola albifrons

Common at Lauca.

OCHRE-NAPED GROUND-TYRANT Muscisaxicola flavinucha

A few at Laguna Miscanti, fairly common at El Tatio and 2 at Lauca.

BLACK-FRONTED GROUND-TYRANT Muscisaxicola frontalis

4 at El Yeso and 1 at Fallerones.


A few near Santiago, L. El Peral and near the central coast; common throughout the south.

ANDEAN NEGRITO Lessonia oreas

8+ at Lauca and 2 at Laguna Chalviri in Bolivia.

SPECTACLED TYRANT Hymenops perspicillata

10 in the Río Aconcágua – L. El Peral area.

CHILEAN SWALLOW Tachycineta meyeni

Common in the centre and south except Tierra del Fuego.

BLUE AND WHITE SWALLOW Notiochelidon cyanoleuca

A few throughout the Andes, and common on Tierra del Fuego.

BARN SWALLOW Hirundo rustica

A few in the northern coastal region.

ANDEAN SWALLOW Hirundo andecola

A few at Lauca.

CORRENDERA PIPIT Anthus correndera

15 near Santiago, 1 at Lago Penuelas and a few throughout the south.

HOUSE WREN Troglodytes aedon

Fairly common throughout except in the high Andes.

SEDGE WREN Cistothorus platensis

2 at San Raphael Dam and singles at Conce and Torres del Paine.


One at Posada Río Serrano, Torres del Paine.


Fairly common throughout the central region.

CHIGUANCO THRUSH Turdus chiguanco

Several at San Pedro de Atacama, with an unusual song, and 4 around Putre.

AUSTRAL THRUSH Turdus falklandii

Fairly common throughout the central region and south.

HOUSE SPARROW Passer domesticus

Fairly common near settlements throughout.

HOODED SISKIN Carduelis magellanica

20+ around Putre.

BLACK-CHINNED SISKIN Carduelis barbata

Fairly common throughout the central region and south.

BLACK SISKIN Carduelis atrata

Five at Lauca on 29 Oct and 4 on 30th, and 1 at El Tatio.

YELLOW-RUMPED SISKIN Carduelis uropygialis

2 at Lauca near the Park entrance.

CINEREOUS CONEBILL Conirostrum cinereum

Common in the Azapa valley.

TAMARUGO CONEBILL Conirostrum tamarugense

c.10 at Pica and 1 at Matilla nearby.


10 at Lauca and 2 at Laguna Menique.


10 at El Yeso, a few at Sociare, Fallerones, Laguna Laja and daily in the south.

PATAGONIAN SIERRA-FINCH Phrygilus patagonicus

Several at Nahuelbuta and Puyehue, 2 at Laguna Parillas and along Pta Prat road.

MOURNING SIERRA-FINCH Phrygilus fructiceti

Common in Lauca, a few at Sociare and 10 at El Yeso.


Several in Lauca and a few at El Tatio.

RED-BACKED SIERRA-FINCH Phrigulus dorsalis

One at Laguna Chalviri in Bolivia and 7 at El Tatio.

WHITE-THROATED SIERRA-FINCH Phrigulus erythronotus

4-5 near Parinacota, Lauca.

BAND-TAILED SIERRA-FINCH Phrigulus alaudinus

2 at El Yeso and a few at Fallerones.


A few at Lauca, El Yeso and Fallerones.

CANARY-WINGED FINCH Melanodera melanodera

Three 8km up the Pali Aike road, and another 5 seen there by the others.


Fairly common in Lauca and at El Yeso.


Fairly common throughout the central region.

SLENDER-BILLED FINCH Xenospingus concolor

Common in the Azapa valley.

BLUE-BLACK GRASSQUIT Volatinia jacarina

A few in the Azapa valley.


A few at Putre.


8-10 in the Azapa valley.


Two in the dry valley at Putre.


Common at San Raphael Dam, Laguna El Peral and Río Aconcágua, 2 at Conce.


Common in Lauca, a few at Laguna Menique, Sociare and El Tatio.

GREATER YELLOW-FINCH Sicalis auriventris

Common at El Yeso and Fallerones.

GREENISH YELLOW-FINCH Sicalis olivascens

A few at Lauca.


10 near Sena Otway, a few on Dinamarqueros road and 4 near La Cumbres.

RUFOUS-COLLARED SPARROW Zonotrichia capensis

Common throughout.

GOLDEN-BILLED SALTATOR Saltator aurantiirostris

2 at Putre.


Fairly common near Santiago and a few in Torres del Paine.


Fairly common throughout the central region and south.

PERUVIAN MEADOWLARK Sturnella bellicosa

6 in the Lhuta valley.

SHINY COWBIRD Molothrus bonariensis

Two in the Azapa valley and a few throughout the central region.


Fairly common throughout the central region and a few in the Pta Natales – Torres del Paine area.

Total number of species recorded = 266 [268] including 2 heard only.


AMERICAN PAINTED-SNIPE Rostratula semicollaris

Lampa, near Santiago.

LEAST SEEDSNIPE Thinocorus rumicivorus

Normally common, especially in the south but this year only known from a few sites, eg the Pta Delgado/ main road junction area (CV).




Occurs in the hills east of Porvenir and near La Cumbres (CV).


Present at a few coastal sites such as Pta Delgado for most of the year but not in November (CV).

GREYISH MINER Geositta maritima

Occurs along the arid hills on the Arica to Putre road.

THICK-BILLED SISKIN Carduelis crassirostris

Border area at Portillo.

YELLOW-BRIDLED FINCH Melanodera xanthogramma

Said to occur at Laguna Laja (MP) and La Cumbres (CV).


The first part of my trip was spent in Córdoba and La Rioja provinces. I was surprised how many of the birds I associated with the south were here, and now think this is a good region to start in. As I was being led by Hernán, and the sites were mostly “his”, I did not take detailed notes and so will only make brief comments as follows. The same goes for the other sites, as they are well documented in Nick Gardner's and Erik Molgaard's reports.


There are 3 endemics in the mountains west of the city: Comechingones or Córdoba Cinclodes, Olrog's Cinclodes and Córdoba Canastero. Birders normally visit Pampa de Achala, beyond Icho Cruz, to see them, but we stopped on Sierra Grande before there and saw all 3 up a valley on the left (92 km from Córdoba), along with Lesser Canastero and Rufous-banded Miner. The other 2 specialities Black-crowned Monjita and Cinnamon Warbling-Finch were not seen as they are scarcer in the breeding season, with some moving south to breed. This area is also very good for Condor-watching, and there is a signed Condor Information Centre a little lower down.

La Cumbre

This is where Hernán (and Maurice Rumboll) live. The habitat is chaco, with some dry woodland. Good birds around here are Spot-winged Falconet, Scimitar-billed Woodcreeper, Chaco Earthcreeper, Crested Hornero, Short-billed Canastero, Lark-like Brushrunner, Brown Cacholote, Olive-crowned Crescentchest, Cinereous Tyrant, Stripe-capped Sparrow, Many-coloured Chaco-Finch and Black-crested Finch. Black-bodied Woodpecker occurs in the dry forest at the El 44 resort, just N of Capilla del Monte. We visited the private Estáncia Giovanini, near Patquia in Cruz del Eje, which was excellent for birds, including the as yet undescribed tyrannulet, known at present as Serpophaga griseiceps, which looks like White-crested but sounds quite different.

Chancani Reserve

Although in Wheatley, I have never heard of any birders going here, but we went as Hernán said it was the best site for Chaco Owl. As access is strictly controlled, a permit has to be obtained from Córdoba in advance – straightforward if you know how. You have to drive a considerable distance on a dirt road, which was in good condition when we went but can be quite bad, especially the final steep descent down Sierra Pocho. Chancani is an excellent site, well worth a couple of days - with a few bunks in a basic hostel but no food. Along with the owl, which we saw after 2 hours of trying (though Dave Sargeant had it more easily 2 weeks later), most of the other chaco birds are here including Brushland Tinamou, Black-legged Seriema, and Cream-backed and Black-bodied Woodpeckers.

Other sites worth visiting are Salinas Grandes and Laguna Mar Chiquita. The latter, 200 km E of Córdoba on a good road, is an excellent wetland with the highly localised Dinelli's Doradito, plus 2 others. To the north Salinas Grandes, S of Frias, holds Salinas Monjita, a rather scarce species requiring precise directions. Wet weather should be avoided since the roads become impassable, as Dave Sargeant found to his cost.


Talampaya N.P.

Hernán offered to take me here without charge as he is undertaking a survey of its birds throughout the seasons. Although a long drive, it has a very interesting avifauna, partly reminiscent of the Los Cardones/ Cachi Rd area further N, and there are some good birds possible on the way. The scenery is spectacular as there is a series of deep canyons in which you can walk or drive. There is a restaurant and a basic camp-site, but no covered accommodation. We saw Elegant Crested Tinamou, Black-legged Seriema, Burrowing Parrot, Steinbach's/ Chestnut Canastero, Crested and Sandy Gallitos and White-throated Cachalote. White-sided Hillstar is normally present, and several other funarids. On the way we were fortunate to find Black-crowned Monjita and Cinnamon Warbling-Finch, and also saw Grey-bellied Shrike-Tyrant.


Abra del Infiernillo

This is the pass in the Sierra de Aconquija 100km W of Tucuman. There were 5 new birds for me here, plus 2 more lower down in the Río los Sosas valley below Tafi. I followed recommendations and birded the two canyons at Kms 78 and 80. The latter was the best and held Bare-eyed Ground-Dove, Puna Canastero, White-browed Tapaculo and Tucuman Mountain-Finch (at the far end, just before the river), but I could not find Buff-breasted Earthcreeper (which DS saw at the pass). Rufous-throated Dipper, Yellow-striped Brush-Finch and White-browed Tapaculo were at Km 46 below Tafi.

Steinbach's Canastero and Sandy Gallito occur in the low scrub on sandy soil before Quilmes, on the way back to Cafayate and Salta, (D. Pitman pers. comm.), and Burrowing Parrot after this.

Calilegua N.P.

This is the best wet forest site in the NW, with a lot of good birds. My priorities were Red-faced Guan, which used to be seen near the pass, Tucuman Parrot, Blue-capped Puffleg and Slaty Elaenia. Lyre-tailed Nightjar occurs just beyond the pass. The dirt road is driveable in a standard car when dry but rain makes it very slippery. As it rained both afternoons, it was not prudent to stay for the guan or nightjar. I taped out the rather skulking elaenia about halfway up, but failed to see the parrot or puffleg on the first day. On a return trip I did see one of each, at the Sendero Lagunita trail.

El Rey is said to be good for the parrot, and Chaco Chachalaca, another tricky species, but the dirt road there is even worse than in Calilegua N.P.

J.V. González

Most of the untouched habitat in the lowlands is chaco. This is usually birded to the east of JV Gonzáles, up tracks at Km 14 & 17. I needed Quebracho Crested-Tinamou, Chaco Chachalaca and Little Thornbird here, having already seen its other specialities,eg Black-legged Seriema, Cream-backed Woodpecker, Scimitar-billed Woodcreeper and Crested Gallito. Ash-coloured Cuckoo was an outside possibility but not seen. I saw the thornbird but only heard the other species, though picked-up the Chachalaca later.

Termas de Reyes and Yala

These sites are just north of Jujuy and hold Red-faced Guan, Spot-breasted Thornbird and Rufous-throated Dipper, as well as Rufous-bellied Saltator which I did not need. The road between them (c.20 km long) is the place to bird. I saw the thornbird and dipper but not the guan and saltator. It used to be possible to stay at the well-positioned hotel at Termas de Reyes but it has now closed down.

North of here, the dirt road goes through Humahuaca to Abra Pampa and the Bolivian border. Birders usually go from Abra Pampa west to Lago Pozuelos and Laguna Larga, in the hope of seeing Horned Coot and flamingos. As I expected to see these in Chile, and was short of time, I did not go, although there were 2 other ticks possible for me - Puna Yellow-Finch and a further try for Buff-breasted Earthcreeper.

Abra Santa Laura

This pass between Salta and Jujuy has good Yungas forest on the N side. Hoy's Screech-Owl is found here but it is a good hour's run on a winding road from both cities, so I did not go at night. Other birds include Blue-capped Puffleg and Spot-breasted Thornbird.


El Calafate

This town is the gateway for the spectacular Moreno glacier and Los Glaciares N.P. It can be reached by bus or car from Río Gallegos and Pto Natales in Chile, and an airport opened while we were there. There are only 2 species here that are not readily found in Chile, namely Patagonian Tinamou and Hooded Grebe. Both used to be seen a mere 40km away near the main road at Laguna de los Escarchados, but rarely occur there now. The tinamou is said to be not uncommon in lightly grazed grassland but the grebes breed some 300-400km to the north on the Strobel plateau, north of Tres Largos, mainly W of the road to Largo Cardiel and Gobernador Gregores, eg at Estáncia La Angostura. This is an uninhabited region with no decent roads or maps – you really need to hire a 4x4 with driver and obtain precise directions from an Argentinian such as Luis Segura. Austral Rail occurs here too, another good site being El Zurdo on the Chile border W of Río Gallegos (JMB).

Further south is Ushuaia and Río Grande. They cannot be reached by road, other than through Chile with a ferry crossing, so flying is the best way. The birds here can be seen in Chile but White-throated Caracara, Fuegian Snipe, White-bellied Seedsnipe and Yellow-bridled Finch are difficult there. There is also a possibility of Gentoo Penguin (nesting in the Magellanic Penguin colony in the Beagle Channel).

The most interesting area in the S is Peninsula Valdés, where there are at least 9 restricted range species, as well as Southern Right Whales and Orcas. Patagonian Canastero, Rusty-backed Monjita, Grey-bellied and Lesser Shrike-Tyrants were found on the peninsula without difficulty. Band-tailed Earthcreeper was only seen in the scrub with scattered bushes near the track to Isla de los Pajaros, while White-throated Cachalote and Carbonated Sierra-Finch were only found 6-8km NE of the outskirts of Pto Madryn on the dirt road to the peninsula. Snowy Sheathbill was just visible from the seal colony viewpoints near Pto Piramides and at Caleta Valdés, but much closer on the seafront at Comodoro Rivadavia. White-headed Steamerduck was at Punta Tombo, well worth visiting for it's huge penguin colony.

The whales were seen well from the viewpoint at Pto Piramides and boats ply the harbour for closer views when the sea is not too rough. We dipped on the Orcas, unfortunately, but the Thomases saw them offshore from the southernmost Elephant Seal colony. Lago de Trelew, near the bus station, is worth a look for photogenic waterbirds, and we had our only Franklin's Gull in Argentina here.

Near San Antonio del Oeste, 250km north of Puerto Madryn, Yellow Cardinal can be found 45km E along the Viedma road (DS) and in roadside bushes at Km post 1110, along with Carbonated Sierra-Finch (RT). Sandy Gallito occurs at several localities – see Wheatley.


Costanera Sur is well known as an excellent site within walking distance of the city centre. One new problem is that there are locked gates now, only open from 08.00 – 19.00, although you can still get out up to at least 19.45. There is an entrance at the N end, as well as the more popular S end given by Wheatley. I had to go at the weekend when it was heaving with non-birding visitors, but birds were still there and many were quite photogenic, probably due to their continual exposure to people.

Outside the city, Otamendi, which holds both Reedhaunters, Dot-winged Crake and Warbling Doradito, is accessible by rail although it will probably take 2 hours (change at Villa Ballester). A further 2 hours drive in Entre Ríos, Ceibas has been highly recommended. Glaucous-blue Grosbeak occurs here, along with some of the wet grassland rarities.


Taxonomy and names as in Birds of the World: a Checklist by JF Clements (2000).

GREATER RHEA (Rhea americana).

One on 10 Oct near Talampaya N.P. and 2 on 11th on the return journey.

LESSER RHEA (Pterocnemia pennata).

Up to 20 Peninsula Valdés, 1 + 10 pulli Trelew - Punta Tombo, 2 El Calafate - Río Gallegos.

TATAUPA TINAMOU (Crypturellus tataupa).

2 heard at Chancani and at least 1 heard at Calilegua N.P. and J.V. González chaco.

BRUSHLAND TINAMOU (Nothoprocta cinerascens).

1 near Talampaya N.P., 2 at Chancani and 1 at J.V. González.

ANDEAN TINAMOU (Nothoprocta pentlandii).

1 at El 44 and 3 at Chancani.

SPOTTED NOTHURA (Nothura maculosa).

2 Talampaya N.P. – Chancani, 1 at Chancani and 1 of this sp. or the next near La Cumbre.

DARWIN'S NOTHURA (Nothura darwinii).

1 Peninsula Valdés (AM).


2 at Chancani, 7 by the road after leaving Chancani, up to 12 on Peninsula Valdés and 1 near Punta Tombo.


Only 1 heard, in J.V. González chaco.

MAGELLANIC PENGUIN (Spheniscus magellanicus).

Numerous at Punta Tombo and Peninsula Valdés. 1 at Caleta Valdés had only a single breast band, hence appeared to be a Jackass Penguin, but as the underside of the flippers was pale, it must have been an aberrant Magellanic.

PIED-BILLED GREBE (Podilymbus podiceps).

4 at Laguna de Yala and 1 Costanera Sur.

WHITE-TUFTED GREBE (Rollandia rolland).

24 Lago de Trelew and a few Costanera Sur.

SILVERY GREBE (Podiceps occipitalis).

12 Lago de Trelew.

GREAT GREBE (Podiceps major).

1 at El Carmen reservoir, Jujuy, 10 Río Gallegos and a few at Punta Tombo and Peninsula Valdés.

ANTARCTIC GIANT PETREL (Macronectes giganteus).

Singles S of Trelew, 150+ Peninsula Valdés and a few Punto Tombo. It is possible that some of these could have been M. halli.

SOOTY SHEARWATER Puffinus griseus

A few Comodoro Rivadavia – Trelew, 1 Peninsula Valdés.

MANX SHEARWATER Puffinus puffinus

1 in Puerto Piramides bay.

NEOTROPIC CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax olivaceus).

Fairly common throughout.

ROCK SHAG (Phalacrocorax magellanicus).

A few Punta Tombo and Peninsula Valdés.

IMPERIAL SHAG (Phalacrocorax atriceps).

A few Comodoro Rivadavia, 2 Punta Tombo and common Peninsula Valdés.

ANHINGA (Anhinga anhinga).

1 El Carmen reservoir.

WHISTLING HERON (Syrigma sibilatrix).

1 en route to Buenos Aires and 2 Costanera Sur.

COCOI HERON (Ardea cocoi).

2 en route to Salta and Buenos Aires, singles at El Carmen reservoir and Costanera Sur.

GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba).

A few throughout, except in the Trelew/ Peninsula Valdés area, with a max of 15 on 18 Oct.

SNOWY EGRET (Egretta thula).

Common en route to Buenos Aires and fairly common at Costanera Sur.

CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis).

Surprisingly few, only recorded on 4 days.

STRIATED HERON (Butorides striatus).

A few at Costanera Sur.

BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (Nycticorax nycticorax).

3 Costanera Sur.

MAGUARI STORK (Euxenura maguari).

1 near Jujuy, 6 Jujuy – San Pedro and 2 en route to Buenos Aires.

BUFF-NECKED IBIS (Theristicus caudatus).

2 Costanera Sur, 1 heard at Calilegua N.P.

BLACK-FACED IBIS (Theristicus melanopis).

A few Laguna Nimes (El Calafate) and 1 El Calafate-Río Gallegos.

WHITE-FACED IBIS (Plegadis chihi).

3 Jujuy – San Pedro, common in the pampas en route to Buenos Aires.

CHILEAN FLAMINGO (Phoenicopterus chilensis).

50 Laguna Nimes and a few from the buses.

SOUTHERN SCREAMER (Chauna torquata).

3 en route to Buenos Aires and 2 at Costanera Sur.

FULVOUS WHISTLING-DUCK (Dendrocygna bicolor).

Common at El Carmen reservoir.

WHITE-FACED WHISTLING -DUCK (Dendrocygna viduata).

Common at El Carmen reservoir and 2 Costanera Sur

COSCOROBA SWAN (Coscoroba coscoroba).

8 at Río Gallegos, 3+ with several juv.s Costanera Sur

BLACK-NECKED SWAN (Cygnus melanecoryphus).

10+ at El Calafate - Los Glaciares N.P. and Costanera Sur

UPLAND GOOSE (Chloephaga picta).

Common in the south, a few on the journey to Trelew but only 1 on Peninsula Valdés.

ANDEAN GOOSE (Chloephaga melanoptera).

A few in the Andes from Jujuy – Chile border.

ASHY-HEADED GOOSE (Chloephaga poliocephala).

20 Los Glaciares N.P.

WHITE-HEADED STEAMER-DUCK (Tachyeres leucocephalus).

3-4 Punta Tombo, 1 Isla de los Pajaros (Peninsula Valdés).

MUSCOVY DUCK (Cairina moschata).

2 at Calilegua N.P.

TORRENT DUCK (Merganetta armata).

A pair with 3 juv. at Tafi del Valle, 3 at Termas de Reyes and a pair with 3 juv. at Yala.

RINGED TEAL (Calionetta leucophrys)

1 on a pool near Cafayate.

CHILOE WIGEON (Anas sibilatrix).

A few Laguna Nimes, Lago de Trelew, en route to Buenos Aires and at Costanera Sur.

SPECKLED TEAL (Anas flavirostris).

10 on the Río Solsos near Tafi, fairly common El Calafate area and at Costanera Sur.

CRESTED DUCK (Lophonetta specularioides).

Common Peninsula Valdés and a few Punta Tombo.

SPECTACLED DUCK (Anas specularis).

One Los Glaciares N.P.


Common on El Carmen reservoir, 2 Río Gallegos and Lago de Trelew, a few at Costanera Sur.


4 at Chancani.

SILVER TEAL (Anas versicolor).

8 Costanera Sur.

RED SHOVELER (Anas platalea).

20+ Laguna Nimes, a few Lago de Trelew and Costanera Sur.

CINNAMON TEAL (Anas cyanoptera).

4 Jujuy – Chile border.

ROSY-BILLED POCHARD (Netta peposaca).

30 Lago de Trelew, a few en route to Buenos Aires, 15 Costanera Sur.

LAKE DUCK (Oxyura vittata).

20+ Laguna Nimes, a few Lago de Trelew and Costanera Sur.

BLACK VULTURE (Coragyps atratus).

Fairly common throughout the NW.

TURKEY VULTURE (Cathartes aura).

A few daily in the NW and Peninsula Valdés area.

ANDEAN CONDOR (Vultur gryphus).

10 Sierra Grande, then up to 4 daily in Córdoba and La Rioja, 4 Tafi – Salta, 6+ Los Glaciares N.P.

HOOK-BILLED KITE (Chondrohierax uncinatus)

1 Sendero Lagunita, Calilegua N.P.

SWALLOW-TAILED KITE (Elanoides forficatus).

10 Calilegua N.P. and 6 Jujuy - the border.

WHITE-TAILED KITE (Elanus leucurus).

1 Chancani, 4 Córdoba – Salta, 1-2 on 3 days while travelling in the NW, and 1 Valle de Chubut.

SNAIL KITE (Rostrhamus sociabilis).

Numerous on the approach to Buenos Aires.

LONG-WINGED HARRIER (Circus buffoni).

15-20, almost all males from Km 330 to 430 south of Buenos Aires.

CINEREOUS HARRIER (Circus cinereus).

A few Peninsula Valdés and El Calafate area.

RUFOUS-THIGHED HAWK (Accipiter erythronemius).

1 near Cafayate (Salta).

GREAT BLACK HAWK (Buteogallus urubitinga).

2 J.V. González - Jujuy.

HARRIS' HAWK (Parabuteo unicinctus).

4 La Cumbre – Talampaya N.P and 2 when leaving, 1 at Buenos Aires airport.

BLACK-CHESTED BUZZARD-EAGLE (Geranoaetus melanoleucus).

Singles at Sierra Grande, Chancani, Río Bote and near Punto Tombo.

SOLITARY EAGLE (Harpyhaliaetus solitarius).

1 Calilegua N.P.

ROADSIDE HAWK (Buteo magnirostris).

A few in the NW and singles at Costanera Sur and Buenos Aires airport.

WHITE-TAILED HAWK (Buteo albicaudatus).

1 south of Trelew.

VARIABLE HAWK (Buteo polyosoma).

Singles at Abra del Infiernillo, west of Jujuy, El Calafate - Río Gallegos and near Punto Tombo, and 3 Peninsula Valdés.

SOUTHERN (CRESTED) CARACARA (Polyborus plancus).

Fairly common in the south and lower parts of the NW, a few in Córdoba, Peninsula Valdés and the Buenos Aires area.

CHIMANGO CARACARA (Milvago chimango).

Common apart from the higher parts of the Northwestern Andes.

SPOT-WINGED FALCONET (Spiziapteryx circumcinctus).

A pair at a nest c.3km NW of Capilla del Monte and singles at YPF gas station at Servezuela, en route to Chancani, and on way back some 10km after reaching the plateau.

AMERICAN KESTREL (Falco sparverius).

Fairly common in the NW but only a few in the south.

PEREGRINE FALCON (Falco peregrinus).

1 nesting at Talampaya N.P.

APLOMADO FALCON (Falco aplomado).

4 singles in the NW and 1 at Los Glaciares N.P..

CHACO CHACHALACA (Ortalis canicollis).

One J.V.Gonzalez – Metan, on a track on the left just before a tall telecom. mast; heard at J.V.Gonzalez chaco.

DUSKY-LEGGED GUAN (Penelope obscura).

One across the road in chaco SW of Salta and up to 7 Calilegua N.P.

LIMPKIN (Aramus guarauna).

A few S of Buenos Aires, 2 Costanera Sur.

GIANT WOOD-RAIL (Aramides ypecaha).

2 at Costanera Sur.

GREY-NECKED WOOD-RAIL (Aramides cajanea).

1 W of Jujuy, heard at Calilegua N.P.

COMMON MOORHEN (Gallinula chloropus).

2 Costanera Sur.

SLATE-COLOURED COOT (Fulica ardesiaca).

1 above Tafi.

RED-GARTERED COOT (Fulica armillata).

A few Costanera Sur.

WHITE-WINGED COOT (Fulica leucoptera).

20 Laguna de Yala and common at El Carmen reservoir.

RED-FRONTED COOT (Fulica rufifrons).

Fairly common Laguna Nimes, Lago de Trelew and Costanera Sur

BLACK-LEGGED SERIEMA (Chunga burmeisteri).

2 to and from Talampaya, 3 near the restaurant at Talampaya N.P. and 2 at Chancani.

WATTLED JACANA (Jacana jacana).

2 Yala and 4 Costanera Sur.

AMERICAN OYSTERCATCHER (Haematopus palliatus).

Several Peninsula Valdés.

MAGELLANIC OYSTERCATCHER (Haematopus leucopodus).

Fairly common El Calafate - Los Glaciares N.P. and common at Río Gallegos.


A few Peninsula Valdés.

WHITE-BACKED STILT (Himantopus melanurus).

20 at El Carmen reservoir, 2 Lago de Trelew and Costanera Sur, common in S Buenos Aires.

SOUTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus chilensis).

Locally common throughout.

ANDEAN LAPWING (Vanellus resplendens).

A few around Abra del Infiernillo.

COLLARED PLOVER (Charadrius collaris).

1 Costanera Sur.

TAWNY-THROATED DOTTEREL (Oreopholus ruficollis).

4 Río Bote (El Calafate).

GREATER YELLOWLEGS (Tringa melanoleuca).

One Lago de Trelew and 2 Costanera Sur.

LESSER YELLOWLEGS (Tringa flavipes).

3 Lago de Trelew.

BAIRD'S SANDPIPER (Calidris bairdii).

A few Lago de Trelew and around El Calafate.

LEAST SEEDSNIPE (Thinocorus rumicivorus).

3 Río Bote.

GREY-BREASTED SEEDSNIPE (Thinochorus orbignyianus).

One Jujuy – border.

SNOWY SHEATHBILL (Chionis alba).

10 Comodoro Rivadavia, 8 Caleta Valdés and 4 Pto Piramides.

BROWN SKUA (Catharacta antarctica).

2 Punta Tombo.

DOLPHIN GULL (Leucophaeus scoresbii).

2 Punta Tombo.

KELP GULL (Larus dominicanus).

Common in the S and at Costanera Sur.

ANDEAN GULL (Larus serranus).

2 Yala and a few Jujuy - border.

BROWN-HOODED GULL (Larus maculipennis).

Common in the south and along the coast up to Buenos Aires.

FRANKLIN'S GULL (Larus pipixcan)

One at Lago de Trelew.

SOUTH AMERICAN TERN (Sterna hirundinacea).

A few Peninsula Valdés.

FERAL PIGEON (Columba livia).

Common near settlements.

PICAZURO PIGEON (Columba picazuro).

Common in Buenos Aires province.

PALE-VENTED PIGEON (Columba cayennensis).

A few at Calilegua N.P., fairly common around Jujuy and Abra Santa Laura.

SPOT-WINGED PIGEON (Columba maculosa).

Common throughout Córdoba and La Rioja.

EARED DOVE (Zenaida auriculata).

Common throughout, except in the far S.

PICUI GROUND-DOVE (Columbina picui).

Common throughout the NW and at Costanera Sur.

BARE-EYED GROUND-DOVE (Metriopelia morenoi).

3 Abra del Infiernillo.

WHITE-TIPPED DOVE (Leptotila verreauxi).

A few around La Cumbre and common J.V. González chaco.

WHITE-FACED DOVE (Leptotila megalura).

One Calilegua N.P.


4 Calilegua N.P.

MITRED PARAKEET (Aratinga mitrata).

50+ south of Salta, common Calilegua N.P., and 25 below Abra Santa Laura.

BLUE-CROWNED PARAKEET (Aratinga acuticaudata).

Common in chaco habitat.

NANDAY PARAKEET (Nandayus nenday).

3 Costanera Sur – from a small feral population, it's true home being further N in Formosa Province.

BURROWING PARROT (Cyanoliseus patagonus).

Two flocks of 50+ at Chancani, 30+ near Cafayate and south of Trelew.

GREEN-CHEEKED PARAKEET (Pyrrhura molinae).

Up to 5 daily at Calilegua N.P.

AUSTRAL PARAKEET (Enicognathus ferrugineus).

2 Los Glaciares N.P.

MONK PARAKEET (Myiopsitta monachus).

Common in Córdoba, La Rioja and Buenos Aires.

GREY-HOODED PARAKEET (Bolborhynchus aymara).

2 above Chancani on the way up to Sierra Pocho.

SCALY-HEADED PARROT (Pionus maximiliani).

30 Calilegua N.P.

BLUE-FRONTED PARROT (Amazona aestiva).

1 near J.V. González and heard at Chancani.

TUCUMAN (ALDER) PARROT (Amazona tucumana).

The only 1 was at Sendero Lagunita, Calilegua N.P.

SQUIRREL CUCKOO (Piaya cayana).

2 daily at Calilegua N.P.

GUIRA CUCKOO (Guira guira).

A few throughout the NW, en route to Buenos Aires and at Costanera Sur, 3 Lago de Trelew.

STRIPED CUCKOO (Tapera naevia).

Heard in chaco, eg at J.V. González.

BARN OWL (Tyto alba).

1 heard at Chancani.


1 heard at Chancani.

HÖY'S SCREECH-OWL (Otus höyi).

1 heard Calilegua N.P.

CHACO OWL (Strix chacoensis)

1 seen at Chancani.

SPECTACLED OWL (Pulsatrix perspicillata)

One calling repeatedly at Calilegua N.P. at night.

FERRUGINOUS/ TUCUMAN PYGMY-OWL (Glaucidium brasilianum/ tucumanum).

1 at El 44, and heard at Chancani and Termas de Reyes. According to Konig et al (2000), this form should be tucumanum but it's existence as a separate species seems highly debateable.

BURROWING OWL (Athene cunicularia).

Singles at El 44, below Abra del Infiernillo and Trelew - Punta Tombo, a few Peninsula Valdés.

SHORT-EARED OWL (Asio flammeus).

Singles above Tafi, south of Trelew and en route to Buenos Aires.

RUFOUS NIGHTJAR (Caprimulgus rufus).

3 heard Calilegua N.P.

LITTLE NIGHTJAR (Caprimulgus parvulus).

1 flushed at Costanera Sur, 1 heard Chancani.


2 displaying at Chancani.

WHITE-COLLARED SWIFT (Streptoprocne zonaris).

50 Cafayate - Tafi.

ASHY-TAILED SWIFT (Chaetura andrei).

30 Cafayate - Tafi and 10+ Calilegua N.P.

ANDEAN SWIFT (Aeronautes andecolus).

2 Talampaya N.P. and 20 near Abra del Infiernillo.

PLANALTO HERMIT (Phaethornis pretrei).

1 Calilegua N.P.

RED-TAILED COMET (Sappho sparganura).

Surprisingly scarce, with only 1 heard at La Cumbre.

GLITTERING-BELLIED EMERALD (Chlorostilbon aureoventris).

Singles at La Cumbre, Talampaya N.P. and Calilegua N.P., several at Costanera Sur.

BLUE-TUFTED STARTHROAT (Heliomaster furcifer).

1 in chaco N of J.V. González.

WHITE-BELLIED HUMMINGBIRD (Amazilia chionogaster).

3+ Calilegua N.P., 2 Yala area and 1 Abra Santa Laura.

BLUE-CAPPED PUFFLEG (Eriocnemis glaucopoides).

1 Calilegua N.P.


1 Termas de Reyes.

RINGED KINGFISHER (Ceryle torquata).

Singles Chancani – La Cumbre, Córdoba – Salta and El Carmen reservoir.

TOCO TOUCAN (Ramphastos toco).

3 Calilegua N.P.

GOLDEN-OLIVE WOODPECKER (Piculus rubiginosus).

1 Calilegua N.P.

WHITE-FRONTED WOODPECKER (Trichopicus cactorum).

2 Chancani.


1 Estáncia Giovanini .

SMOKY-BROWN WOODPECKER (Veniliornis fumigatus)

1 at the campsite at Calilegua N.P.

DOT-FRONTED WOODPECKER (Veniliornis frontalis).

1 Calilegua N.P.

CAMPO FLICKER (Colaptes campestris).

1 S of Buenos Aires.

ANDEAN FLICKER (Colaptes rupicola).

2 below Abra del Infiernillo.

CHILEAN FLICKER (Colaptes pitius).

1 Los Glaciares N.P.

GOLDEN-BREASTED WOODPECKER (Colaptes melanolaimus).

The commonest woodpecker, with up to 6 on 7 days in the NW and at Costanera Sur.

BLACK-BODIED WOODPECKER (Campephilus schulzi).

A pair of this rarely seen species at El 44, and 1 heard at Chancani.

CREAM-BACKED WOODPECKER (Campephilus leucopogon).

1 Cafayate - Salta.

RUFOUS-BANDED MINER (Geositta rufipennis).

1 Sierra Grande.

COMMON MINER (Geositta cunicularia).

2 at boder with Chile and at Río Bote, common Peninsula Valdés.

SLENDER-BILLED MINER (Geositta tenuirostris).

2 singles Abra del Infiernillo.


1 Río Bote, 12+ Peninsula Valdés, 1 Peninsula Valdés - Puerto Madryn, 2 Trelew - Punta Tombo.

CHACO EARTHCREEPER (Upucerthia certhioides).

Singles La Cumbre, El 44 and Salta - Cafayate.

BAND-TAILED EARTHCREEPER (Eremobius phoenicurus).

2 Peninsula Valdés.

OLROG'S CINCLODES (Cinclodes olrogi).

2 Sierra Grande.

BAR-WINGED CINCLODES (Cinclodes fuscus).

Common Abra del Infiernillo area and a few Yala and El Calafate areas.

COMECHINGONES CINCLODES (Cinclodes comechingonus).

1 Sierra Grande.

WHITE-WINGED CINCLODES (Cinclodes atacamensis).

2 Sierra Grande.

RUFOUS HORNERO (Furnarius rufus).

Fairly common in Córdoba, El Rioja and Buenos Aires.

CRESTED HORNERO (Furnarius cristatus).

2 Estáncia Giovanini and Chancani.

THORN-TAILED RAYADITO (Aphrastura spinicauda).

1 Los Glaciares N.P.

TUFTED TIT-SPINETAIL (Leptasthenura platensis).

Singles La Cumbre and Abra del Infiernillo, and 2 Estáncia Giovanini and en route to Talampaya N.P.

PLAIN-MANTLED TIT-SPINETAIL (Leptasthenura aegithaloides).

2 Talampaya N.P. and up to 5 daily Peninsula Valdés.

WREN-LIKE RUSHBIRD (Phleocryptes melanops).

1+ Lago de Trelew and 2+ Costanera Sur.

BAY-CAPPED WREN-SPINETAIL (Spartonoica maluroides).

1 Costanera Sur.

AZARA'S SPINETAIL (Synallaxis azarae).

Common Calilegua N.P.

SOOTY-FRONTED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis frontalis).

Singles El 44 and Chancani.

PALE-BREASTED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis albescens).

Singles La Cumbre and Chancani.

STRIPE-CROWNED SPINETAIL (Cranioleuca pyrrhophia).

Singles La Cumbre, Talampaya N.P. and Chancani.

SULPHUR-BEARDED SPINETAIL (Cranioleuca sulphurifera).

A few Costanera Sur.

YELLOW-CHINNED SPINETAIL (Certhiaxis cinnamomea).

3 Costanera Sur.

STEINBACH'S CANASTERO (Asthenes steinbachi).

2 Talampaya N.P.

LESSER CANASTERO (Asthenes pyrrholeuca).

2 Sierra Grande, Laguna Nimes and Puerto Madryn; 10 Peninsula Valdés.


2 La Cumbre, Estáncia Giovanini and Chancani.

PATAGONIAN CANASTERO (Asthenes patagonica).

Up to 5 daily Peninsula Valdés.

PUNA CANASTERO (Asthenes punensis).

1 Abra del Infiernillo.

LITTLE THORNBIRD (Phacellodomus sibilatrix).

1 La Cumbre, 2 J.V. González chaco, heard Chancani.

FRECKLE-BREASTED THORNBIRD (Phacellodomus striaticollis).

2 at the edge of gallery forest in Costanera Sur.

SPOT-BREASTED THORNBIRD (Phacellodomus maculipectus).

2 seen and 4 heard above Yala.

FIREWOOD-GATHERER (Anumbius annumbi).

2 at a nest in a palm on the plateau above Chancani.

LARK-LIKE BRUSHRUNNER (Coryphistera alaudina).

30 El 44 - Estáncia Giovanini and a few at Chancani.

BROWN CACHOLOTE (Pseudoseisura lophotes).

10 El 44 - Estáncia Giovanini, a few at Talampaya N.P. and en route to Chancani, and 1 J.V. González chaco.

WHITE-THROATED CACHOLOTE (Pseudoseisura gutturalis).

2 at river crossing just before Talampaya N.P. and 7km NE of Puerto Madryn in a scrubby small canyon.

BUFF-BROWED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Syndactyla rufosuperciliata).

2+ Calilegua N.P. and 2 Abra Santa Laura.

OLIVACEOUS WOODCREEPER (Sittasomus griseicapillus).

2 Calilegua N.P.


Pairs at El 44, Capilla del Monte, en route to Talampaya N.P. and Chancani.

NARROW-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Lepidocolaptes angustirostris).

2 Estáncia Giovanini, 2 singles Chancani and heard J.V. González chaco.

GIANT ANTSHRIKE (Batara cinerea).

A pair gave stunning views at Calilegua N.P. and another male was seen.

VARIABLE ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus caerulescens).

Singles El 44 and Calilegua N.P.

GREAT ANTSHRIKE (Taraba major).

1 Calilegua N.P.

BLACK-CAPPED ANTWREN (Herpsilochmus pileatus).

1 Calilegua N.P.

WHITE-THROATED ANTPITTA (Grallaria albigula).

Several heard Calilegua N.P. but only 1 glimpsed.

CRESTED GALLITO (Rhinocrypta lanceolata).

2 El 44 and Talampaya N.P., singles seen and others heard Chancani and J.V. González chaco.

SANDY GALLITO (Teledromas fuscus).

1 seen and another heard near Talampaya N.P.

OLIVE-CROWNED CRESCENTCHEST (Melanopareia maximiliani).

1 taped out near La Cumbre.

WHITE-BROWED TAPACULO (Scytalopus superciliaris).

Singles seen and others heard below Tafi and at Abra del Infiernillo. A tapaculo seen poorly near Yala was either this sp. or Matorral S. griseicollis.

MAGELLANIC TAPACULO (Scytalopus magellanicus).

1 heard Los Glaciares N.P.


Up to 4 daily in Córdoba and La Rioja, 1 heard J.V. González chaco.


Singles Estáncia Giovanini and J.V. González chaco.

WHITE-CRESTED ELAENIA (Elaenia albiceps).

2 Calilegua N.P., fairly common Los Glaciares N.P. and a few Peninsula Valdés.

SMALL-BILLED ELAENIA (Elaenia parvirostris).

2 Chancani and singles at J.V. González chaco and Costanera Sur.

SLATY ELAENIA (Elaenia strepera).

2 Calilegua N.P. and others heard.

WHITE-CRESTED TYRANNULET (Serpophaga subcristata).

A few Costanera Sur.


Singles La Cumbre and Calilegua N.P., 2 Talampaya N.P., Chancani and J.V. González chaco.

GREY-CROWNED TYRANNULET (Serpophaga griseiceps).

2 Estáncia Giovanini and singles en route to Talampaya N.P. and at Chancani.

Note: Still awaiting formal splitting from White-bellied Tyrannulet (S. munda).

SCLATER'S TYRANNULET (Xanthomyias sclateri).

2 on 2 days at Calilegua N.P.

SOUTHERN SCRUB FLYCATCHER (Sublegatus modestus).

2 at Talampaya N.P. on both days and at J.V. González chaco.

SUIRIRI FLYCATCHER (Suiriri suiriri).

3 at Chancani and 1 at Buenos Aires airport.

WHITE-THROATED TYRANNULET (Mercocerculus leucophrys).

5 below Tafi, 3 Calilegua N.P. and 6 Yala area.

GREATER WAGTAIL-TYRANT (Stigmatura budytoides).

Singles Estáncia Giovanini and Talampaya N.P., 6 J.V. González chaco.

YELLOW-BILLED TIT-TYRANT (Anairetes flavirostris).

1 Talampaya N.P.

MANY-COLOURED RUSH-TYRANT (Tachuris rubrigastra).

1 Costanera Sur.

TAWNY-CROWNED PYGMY-TYRANT (Euscarthmus meloryphus).

1 J.V. González chaco and heard at Chancani.

PEARLY-VENTED TODY-TYRANT (Idioptilon margaritaceiventer).

1 Estáncia Giovanini.

OCHRE-FACED TODY-FLYCATCHER (Todirostrum plumbeiceps).

2+ Calilegua N.P.

BRAN-COLOURED FLYCATCHER (Myiophobus fasciatus).

2 singles Costanera Sur and 1 at Buenos Aires airport.

CINNAMON FLYCATCHER (Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea)

1 Calilegua N.P.

CLIFF FLYCATCHER (Hirundinea ferruginea).

2 Talampaya N.P.

BLACK PHOEBE (Sayornis nigricans).

Singles Tafi and Termas de Reyes, 2 Calilegua N.P. and Yala.

VERMILION FLYCATCHER (Pyrocephalus rubinus).

1 S of Buenos Aires.

WHITE-BROWED CHAT-TYRANT (Ochthoeca leucophrys).

3 Abra del Infiernillo and 1 Yala area.

D'ORBIGNY'S CHAT-TYRANT (Ochthoeca oenanthoides).

1 Abra del Infiernillo.

STREAK-THROATED BUSH-TYRANT (Myiotheretes striaticollis).

3 Yala area.


3 in saltbush near to Talampaya N.P. on 10 Oct and 2 on 11th.

WHITE MONJITA (Xolmis irupero).

Fairly common from La Cumbre – Talampaya N.P./ Chancani/ Tucuman and 1 Salta - J.V. González.

RUSTY-BACKED MONJITA (Neoxolmis rubetra).

1 Trelew – Pto Madryn, 4 Peninsula Valdés on 22Nov, 2 near Pto Piramides road junction and 3 near Isla de los Pajaros road on 23rd.


2 Sierra Grande and 1 above Tafi.

GREY-BELLIED SHRIKE-TYRANT (Agriornis microptera).

1 near Talampaya N.P., 6 Peninsula Valdés on 22 Nov and 4 on 23rd.

LESSER SHRIKE-TYRANT (Agriornis murina).

1-2 daily Peninsula Valdés, and 2 Pto Madryn and Punto Tombo road.

SPOT-BILLED GROUND-TYRANT (Muscisaxicola maculirostris).

Singles Abra del Infiernillo and Río Bote.

RUFOUS-NAPED GROUND-TYRANT (Muscisaxicola rufivertex).

2 Sierra Grande and Abra del Infiernillo.

AUSTRAL NEGRITO (Lessonia oreas).

Common in the southern part of the country.

CINEREOUS TYRANT (Knipolegus striaticeps).

2 Estáncia Giovanini, 3 Chancani and 2 J.V. González chaco.

ANDEAN TYRANT (Knipolegus signatus cabanisi).

1 Calilegua N.P.

WHITE-WINGED BLACK-TYRANT (Knipolegus aterrimus).

5 at Talampaya N.P. on 10 Oct and 8 on 11th, singles at Punta Tombo and Buenos Aires airport.

SPECTACLED TYRANT (Hymenops perspicillata).

1 Sierra Grande, 8 Costanera Sur.

BLACK-BACKED WATER-TYRANT (Fluvicola albiventer)

2 Costanera Sur.

CATTLE TYRANT (Machetornis rixosus).

4 Estáncia Giovanini, 2 Chancani and 3 Costanera Sur.

YELLOW-BROWED TYRANT (Satrapa icterophrys).

3 Costanera Sur.

DUSKY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus tuberculifer).

A few daily at Calilegua N.P.

BROWN CRESTED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus tyrannulus)

3 El 44, 1 Estáncia Giovanini and Chancani, and a few Termas de Reyes/ Yala.

STREAKED FLYCATCHER (Myiodynastes maculatus).

Singles at Calilegua N.P. and Costanera Sur.

GREAT KISKADEE (Pitangus sulphuratus).

Fairly common in the N and in Buenos Aires, 2 in Trelew town.

CROWNED SLATY-FLYCATCHER (Empidonomus aurantioatrocristatus).

1 Estáncia Giovanini, 2 Chancani and 4 J.V. González chaco.

TROPICAL KINGBIRD (Tyrannus melancholicus).

2 Calilegua N.P., a few Jujuy – border, 3 Costanera Sur.

FORK-TAILED FLYCATCHER (Muscivora tyrannus).

Singles Sierra Grande – La Cumbre and Chancani, 6 J.V. González, 5 Calilegua N.P. – Jujuy and Salta, 6 S of Buenos Aires and 10+ at Costanera Sur.


2 El 44 and 1 at Chancani.

GREY-BREASTED MARTIN (Progne chalybea).

Fairly common at Costanera Sur.

SOUTHERN MARTIN (Progne modesta).

Common around Córdoba, up to 10 daily in the Trelew - Peninsula Valdés area.

WHITE-RUMPED SWALLOW (Tachycineta leucorrhoa).

A few at El Carmen reservoir, common Costanera Sur.

CHILEAN SWALLOW (Tachycineta leucophyga).

Fairly common in the El Calafate area and Los Glaciares N.P.

BLUE-AND-WHITE SWALLOW (Notiochelidon cyanoleuca).

2 Sierra Grande, 4 Estáncia Giovanini and a few Yala area, Salta – border and in the south.

TAWNY-HEADED SWALLLOW (Alopochelidon fucata).

6+ La Cumbre and a few El 44.

SHORT-BILLED PIPIT (Anthus furcatus).

1 Peninsula Valdés.

CORRENDERA PIPIT (Anthus correndera).

2 Laguna Nimes, Lago de Trelew and Peninsula Valdés.

HELLMAYR'S PIPIT (Anthus hellmayri).

6+ Abra del Infiernillo.

RUFOUS-THROATED DIPPER (Cinclus schultzi).

Singles Río Solsos (below Tafi) and Río Yala.

HOUSE WREN (Troglodytes aedon).

Common throughout.

MOUNTAIN WREN (Troglodytes solstitialis).

1 at Calilegua N.P.

SEDGE WREN (Cistothorus platensis)

1 Costanera Sur


Common around La Cumbre and at Costanera Sur.


1 Abra del Infiernillo and 2 Jujuy - border.


Singles Estáncia Giovanini, Tafi and J.V. González chaco , 4 La Cumbre – Talampaya N.P., 2+ Pta Norte on Peninsula Valdés.


3 La Cumbre – Talampaya N.P. and Talampaya N.P. – Chancani, 1 Laguna Nimes and common Trelew - Peninsula Valdés – Punto Tombo.

CHIGUANCO THRUSH (Turdus chiguanco).

Fairly common throughout the NW.

GLOSSY-BLACK THRUSH (Turdus serranus).

2 Calilegua N.P.

RUFOUS-BELLIED THRUSH (Turdus rufiventris).

Common Calilegua N.P. and Costanera Sur, 2 Yala area.

AUSTRAL THRUSH (Turdus falcklandii).

A few El Calafate area and Los Glaciares N.P., 1 in Trelew central plaza.

CREAMY-BELLIED THRUSH (Turdus amaurochalinus).

1 near La Cumbre, 2 Chancani, common around J.V. González and a few near Jujuy.

MASKED GNATCATCHER (Poolioptila dumicola).

2 Estáncia Giovanini , Chancani and Yala area, 5 J.V. González chaco and 8 Costanera Sur.

PLUSH-CRESTED JAY (Cyanocorax chrysops).

1 Cafayate – Salta, 5 Calilegua N.P. and Yala, 15 to and from J.V. González, and 10 Jujuy - Abra Santa Laura.

EUROPEAN STARLING (Sturnus vulgaris)

A few in Buenos Aires.

HOUSE SPARROW (Passer domesticus).

Near habitation throughout.

RED-EYED VIREO (Vireo olivaceous).

Singles Calilegua N.P. and Costanera Sur.

RUFOUS-BROWED PEPPERSHRIKE (Cyclarhis gujanensis).

1 Calilegua N.P.

HOODED SISKIN (Carduelis magellanica).

Up to 20 daily in Córdoba and La Rioja, a few Tafi and Yala areas, common Costanera Sur, a few Buenos Aires airport.

BLACK-CHINNED SISKIN (Carduelis barbata).

20+ Los Glaciares N.P.

YELLOW-RUMPED SISKIN (Carduelis uropygialis).

1+ Jujuy – border.

TROPICAL PARULA (Parula pitiayumi).

1 Calilegua N.P.

MASKED YELLOWTHROAT (Geothlypis aequinoctialis).

Common at Costanera Sur.

BROWN-CAPPED REDSTART (Myioborus brunniceps).

Common at Calilegua N.P., a few Yala area and Abra Santa Laura.

TWO-BANDED WARBLER (Basileuterus bivittatus).

2 Calilegua N.P. on 16 Oct and 1 on 19th.

PALE-LEGGED WARBLER (Basileuterus signatus).

Singles Calilegua N.P. on 16 and 19 Oct.

COMMON BUSH-TANAGER (Chlorospingus ophthalmicus).

Common Calilegua N.P.and a few Yala area.

RUST-AND-YELLOW TANAGER (Thlypopsis ruficeps)

1 Calilegua N.P.

HEPATIC TANAGER (Piranga flava flava).

1 El 44, 2 Talampaya N.P. and Calilegua N.P.

SAYACA TANAGER (Thraupis sayaca).

Common Calilegua N.P. and a few elsewhere in the NW.

BLUE-AND-YELLOW TANAGER (Thraupis bonariensis).

Several daily in chaco, with a max of 20 La Cumbre - Estáncia Giovanini.

FAWN-BREASTED TANAGER (Pipraeidea melanonota).

2 Calilegua N.P.

PURPLE-THROATED EUPHONIA (Euphonia chlorotica).

2 Calilegua N.P.

MANY-COLOURED CHACO-FINCH (Saltatricula multicolor).

4 El 44 and Estáncia Giovanini, 6 La Cumbre – Talampaya N.P., 5 Chancani and 2 J.V. González chaco.

RED-CRESTED FINCH (Coryphospingus cucullatus).

2 Chancani and 1 Cafayate - Abra del Infiernillo.


10+ Talampaya N.P., 2 Los Glaciares N.P.

PATAGONIAN SIERRA-FINCH (Phrygilus patagonicus).

5+ Los Glaciares N.P.

MOURNING SIERRA-FINCH (Phrygilus fruticeti).

2 Abra del Infiernillo, common Peninsula Valdés and a few Trelew - Punta Tombo.

PLUMBEOUS SIERRA-FINCH (Phrygilus unicolor).

4 Sierra Grande and a few Abra del Infiernillo.

CARBONATED SIERRA-FINCH (Phrygilus carbonarius).

Ten 6-8km along Puerto Madryn - Peninsula Valdés road.

BAND-TAILED SIERRA-FINCH (Phrygilus alaudinus).

10 Abra del Infiernillo.

ASH-BREASTED SIERRA-FINCH (Phrygilus plebejus).

2 Abra del Infiernillo.

BLACK-CRESTED FINCH (Lophospingus pusillus).

5 Estáncia Giovanini and 2 Chancani.

LONG-TAILED REED-FINCH (Donacospiza albifrons).

1 Costanera Sur.


Up to 10 Chancani, common Trelew - Peninsula Valdés - Punta Tombo.


1 or 2 in chaco en route to Talampaya N.P.

RUSTY-BROWED WARBLING-FINCH (Poospiza erythrophrys).

2 Yala area.


Common Costanera Sur.

TUCUMAN MOUNTAIN-FINCH (Compsospiza baeri).

3 Abra del Infiernillo.

RINGED WARBLING-FINCH (Poospiza torquata).

3 La Cumbre – Talampaya N.P., 2 at Talampaya N.P., singles Chancani and J.V. González chaco.

BLACK-CAPPED WARBLING-FINCH (Poospiza melanoleuca).

2 La Cumbre, 10 Estáncia Giovanini a few Chancani.

BLUE-BLACK GRASSQUIT (Volatinia jacarina).

5 near Quilmes.

RUSTY-COLLARED SEEDEATER (Sporophila collaris).

3 Costanera Sur.

DOUBLE-COLLARED SEEDEATER (Sporophila caerulescens).

5+ Costanera Sur.

RUSTY FLOWERPIERCER (Diglossa sittoides)

2 at Calilegua N.P.

SAFFRON FINCH (Sicalis flaveola).

10+ La Cumbre - Estáncia Giovanini, common at Chancani, 2 Costanera Sur.


2 Peninsula Valdés.

GREENISH YELLOW-FINCH (Sicalis olivascens).

20 Talampaya N.P. and 6 below Abra del Infiernillo.


2 Peninsula Valdés.

GREAT PAMPA-FINCH (Embemagra platensis).

A few near Chanacani and at Costanera Sur.

RED-CRESTED CARDINAL (Paroaria coronata).

Singles J.V. González and Costanera Sur.

YELLOW-BILLED CARDINAL (Paroaria capitata)

2 Costanera Sur.

FULVOUS-HEADED BRUSH-FINCH (Atlapetes fulviceps).

15 Yala area, 1 Abra Santa Laura.

STRIPE-HEADED BRUSH-FINCH (Atlapetes torquatus).

2 Calilegua N.P.

YELLOW-STRIPED BRUSH-FINCH (Atlapetes citrinellus).

3 Río Solsos, below Tafi.

SAFRON-BILLED SPARROW (Arremon flavirostris).

1 Calilegua N.P.

STRIPE-CAPPED SPARROW (Aimophila strigiceps).

2 La Cumbre and Chancani.

RUFOUS-COLLARED SPARROW (Zonotrichia capensis).

Common throughout.

GOLDEN-BILLED SALTATOR (Saltator aurantirostris).

Fairly common throughout the NW.

BLACK-BACKED GROSBEAK (Pheuticus aureoventris).

3 Calilegua N.P., singles Yala area and Abra Santa Laura.

ULTRAMARINE GROSBEAK (Cyanocompsa brissonii).

Singles Chancani and Calilegua N.P.


A few Lago de Trelew, common Costanera Sur.


2 Sierra Grande, 1 Chancani, common in the S.

[PAMPAS MEADOWLARK (Sturnella defillipi).

What appeared to be a meadowlark with black underwings was seen parachuting on to a post 443km S of Buenos Aires, but the possibility of it being White-browed Blackbird (Sturnella superciliaris) cannot be ruled out.]

BAY-WINGED COWBIRD (Molothrus badius).

Fairly common around La Cumbre, a few at Termas de Reyes., 2 at Laguna Trelew and a few at Costanera Sur.

SCREAMING COWBIRD (Molothrus rufoaxillaris).

10+ around La Cumbre and a few Termas de Reyes.

SHINY COWBIRD (Molothrus bonariensis).

Common except for in the S where absent.

EPAULET ORIOLE (Icterus cayanensis).

2 pairs Costanera Sur.

GOLDEN-WINGED CACIQUE (Cacicus chrysopterus).

5 Calilegua N.P.

CRESTED OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius decumanus).

2 at Calilegua N.P. and 10 Calilegua - Jujuy.

BROWN-AND-YELLOW MARSHBIRD (Pseudoleistes virescens).

2 S of Buenos Aires.

AUSTRAL BLACKBIRD (Curaeus curaeus).

2 Los Glaciares N.P.


PATAGONIAN TINAMOU (Tinamotis ingoufi).

El Calafate area.

HOODED GREBE (Podiceps gallardoi)

Strobel Plateau.

RED-FACED GUAN (Penelope dabbenei).

Yala area and Calilegua N.P.

AUSTRAL RAIL (Rallus antarcticus)

El Calafate area and Strobel Plateau.

MAGELLANIC PLOVER (Pluvianellus socialis).

Lagunas de los Escarchados.

WHITE-SIDED HILLSTAR (Oreothrochilus leucopleurus).

Talampaya N.P.

MAGELLANIC WOODPECKER (Campephilus magellanicus).

Los Glaciares N.P.

BUFF-BREASTED EARTHCREEPER (Upucerthia validirostris).

Abra del Infiernillo and Laguna de los Pozuelos.

RUFOUS-BELLIED SALTATOR (Saltator rufiventris).

Termas de Reyes.

PUNA YELLOW-FINCH (Sicalis lutea).

Laguna de los Pozuelos.


The taxonomy is based on Corbet and Hill (1991) A World List of Mammalian Species.

COLPEO FOX (Dusicyon culpaeolus)

2 Los Glaciares NP, 1 Peninsula Valdés.


2 Talampaya N.P.

SOUTHERN SEALION (Otaria byronia).

Common Peninsula Valdés, smaller numbers Punta Tombo.

SOUTHERN ELEPHANT SEAL (Mirounga leonina).

Common Peninsula Valdés.

COMMERSON'S DOLPHIN (Cephalorhynchus commersonii).

1 Río Gallegos.

SOUTHERN RIGHT WHALE (Balaena australis).

8 Puerto Piramides, 2 Caleta Valdés.

GUANACO (Lama guanicoe).

Parties Los Glaciares N.P., Peninsula Valdés and Trelew - Punta Tombo.

VICUÑA (Vicugna vicugna).

A few Jujuy – Chile border.

MARA (Bolicholis patagonum).

2-5 Peninsula Valdés, 3 Punta Tombo.

CAVY Cavia tschudii: 2 Abra del Infiernillo.

Cavia pamparu: a few at Costanera Sur,1 Punto Tombo

COYPU (Myocastor coypus).

A few Costanera Sur

BROWN HARE (Lepus europeus). INTRODUCED.


RABBIT (Oryctolagus cuniculus). INTRODUCED.

Fairly common.

Copyright © 1992-2012 John Wall