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6 June – 5 August 1999

by Samuel Hansson

Travelers: Samuel Hansson and Mathias Bergström (S. and C. Peru), Sweden.


Mathias and I had only met once before, very briefly, when we decided to make this journey together. We were both independently planning to join an arranged trip with Swedish Bongo Nature Travels to southern Peru (primarily Manu Rd., Amazonian Manu and Abra Málaga), but at the closing date only 3 people had shown any interest whatsoever. Mathias contacted me during the time of uncertainty, and I then managed to convince him that we could do a similar journey on our own if there wasn't going to be any Bongo trip. We started to make some brief plans, and when the trip definitely was canceled we decided to do just that. As Mathias only had 4 weeks of vacation to spare, I decided to continue on my own after he'd gone home. We had some trouble getting all the information needed about birding sites, but after some work we found a few helpful trip reports. The information still was rather poor for some sites, so hopefully our site descriptions will fill some gaps that you readers might have. Instead of Manu we decided to go to Tambopata and the Tambopata Research Center, much cheaper than most other lodges in southeastern Peru, with special features like the famous huge macaw lick and extensive bamboo. Despite my efforts to really convince ourselves that we were going to get a knowledgeable guide, we still ended up buying the "pig in the sack", as we call it in Sweden. More about that in the diary.

Birding on public transport in Peru is certainly more difficult and time consuming than in Ecuador, but still it is possible to get almost anywhere if you're tough birders. Northern Peru is safe now, but they are not used to tourists yet (which makes it even more exciting). Really good birding in northern Peru, though, means that you've got to have a car. Central Peru is getting safer, but you should not go to the Cordillera Carpish or Tingo Maria area (and definitely not the Huallaga Valley outside the Tingo Maria area) unless you speak perfect Spanish and/or have been assured it's reasonably safe to go there. The central highlands are safe as far as Huánuco, and so are the coastal areas and the south. Safe means that there's no terrorism, bandits or major drug problems. Armed robbery and theft are still common in Peru, especially in Lima and Cuzco. The risk of getting assaulted is, however, small, as long as you're careful and take all the necessary precautions. We never felt pressed or threatened. In northern Peru, when I was on my own, I found most people genuinely friendly. The poor economy of Ecuador in the recent year has resulted in increased robberies and thefts, but these are concentrated to certain areas of cities and are mostly performed in the dark hours and should thus be rather easily avoided. As a rule, the countryside is very safe. All these warnings might scare some to not go to South America, but I'm telling you - it's well worth the small risks. South America is fantastic and the birding unrivalled! As long as you keep yourself well informed about where it's safe to go and not, and as long as you use your common sense, you should be safer in Peru, Ecuador, Colombia or any other South American country than in many European or American cities.

Samuel Hansson, Frödingshöjd 36, 65637 Karlstad, Sweden

Mathias Bergström, Finntorpsvägen 9, 131 36 Nacka, Sweden

Summary of the journey


5 Stockholm-Barcelona-Madrid. Night in Madrid.

6 Madrid-Lima. Night in Lima.

7 Lima-Cuzco. Sacsayhuaman and sightseeing in Cuzco.

8 Cuzco-Águas Calientes by train. Afternoon birding at Águas Calientes.

9 Machu Picchu. Train to Ollantaytambo in the afternoon.

10 Birding mainly in forests northeast of Abra Málaga Pass, also at Peñas on the dry slope.

11 Abra Málaga and Peñas.

12 Ollantaytambo-Cuzco. Huacarpay Lakes.

13 Cuzco-Puerto Maldonado-Posada Amazonas. Afternoon birding at Posada Amazonas.

14 Posada Amazonas. To Tambopata Research Center.

15-16 TRC

17 Tavara

18 TRC. Back to Posada Amazonas in afternoon.

19 Posada Amazonas

20 To Puerto Maldonado and Lima.

21 Lima

22 Lima-Junín. Evening birding at Junín.

23 Lake Junín.

24 To San Mateo. Afternoon birding.

25 Milloc Bog and surroundings.

26 San Mateo-Pisco. Evening birding at Paracas.

27 Paracas

28 Islas Ballestas. To Lima.

29 Lima

30 Lurin, Pantanos de Villa. Samuel continues on his own to Chiclayo in the evening.


1 Mattias returns to Sweden. Samuel goes to Jaen in the Marañón valley.

2 Chamaya (morning), north of Jaen (afternoon).

3 Chamaya. To Pomacochas.

4 Río Chido, Pomacochas.

5 Río Chido, Pomacochas.

6 Pomacochas-Bagua Grande-Chiclayo.

7 Rafan. To Sullana.

8 To Sozoranga, Ecuador. Evening birding.

9 Utuana (morning), Sozoranga (afternoon).

10 Sozoranga (morning), to Loja.

11 Loja. To Bombuscaro (afternoon birding).

12-13 Bombuscaro.

14 To San Francisco and Loja.

15 Loja-Quito (night bus).

16-19 Quito. Visit to Pichincha on 18th.

20 To Pasto, Colombia.

21 Pasto-Río Ñambí (afternoon birding).

22-23 Río Ñambí.

24 Río Ñambí (morning). To Tulcán, Ecuador.

25 To Quito.

26 To Bella Vista. Birding from 10.00.

27 Bella Vista (morning). To Mindo (afternoon birding).

28 Mindo.

29 Mindo (morning). To Quito.

30 Quito.

31 To San Rafael Falls (afternoon birding).


1 San Rafael Falls.

2 San Rafael Falls (morning). To Baeza.

3 Guacamayos.

4 Guacamayos (morning). To Quito.

5 Quito. La Carolina.

5-7 Quito-Guayaquil-Madrid. Night in Madrid. Madrid-Barcelona-Stockholm.

Site descriptions

Southern Peru


The immediate surroundings of the impressive Inca fortress Sacsayhuaman, above Cuzco, are mainly agricultural and hold a number of species typical to open landscapes and disturbed habitats. Some species easily seen are Spot-winged Pigeon, Bare-faced Ground-Dove, Black-throated Flowerpiercer and several emberizids. Take a taxi up and walk down.

Águas Calientes/Machu Picchu

A visit to Machu Picchu is a must for anyone visiting the Cuzco area. Except for the fantastic lost city of the Incas itself there are many birds to see. The foremost specialities, Green-and-white Hummingbird and Inca Wren, are readily found with little effort, though the wren might be hard to actually spot. Listen for the loud song duet of the Inca Wren in bamboo close to the ruins. The mountainside of Machu Picchu holds mixed species flocks and species like White-eared Solitaire and Ocellated Piculet (dip). There are shortcuts all the way up/down. The Urubamba River is good for Torrent Duck, Fasciated Tiger-Heron and White-capped Dipper, and you can see them from the train as well. A kilometer or so beyond the Machu Picchu station, by the railway, is the classical site for Andean Cock-of-the-Rock. We only found a female here but saw 2 males just above Águas Calientes. The forest in the direction of Cuzco is supposed to be very good, with chances on Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan. Águas Calientes is a tourist village, but cheaper accommodation (15 soles) is available. There are three different trains going to Águas Calientes, two expensive tourist trains and one local train that takes a bit longer. We recommend 1st class on the local train. Just keep an eye on your luggage and you should have no problems whatsoever. The smoothest way to get tickets for the train is to hire someone to do it for you.

Abra Málaga

The Abra Málaga area is also a must when birding around Cuzco. It is possible to go there by bus, but that cannot be recommended. Buses are very few, distances are long and the weather can be grim, especially near the pass. We stayed at "El Albuerge" in Ollantaytambo, owned by an American lady. It's rather expensive for low budget travelers ($12), but you'll get help to get a good driver who's been out with birders before. It might take some negotiation to get a reasonable price, you shouldn't have to pay more than $40-45 for a day trip. At least two days are needed to explore the area properly; one for the temperate forest east of the pass and a second for the patches of Polylepis near the pass and the west slope. Our two days weren't enough. We missed quite a few species, in part, though, due to snowy weather in the Polylepis "forest".

Abra Málaga's most famous feature is the Polylepis forest, which has been steadily shrinking the last decades and now is almost totally destroyed. We knew the forest was seriously degraded, but what was left at our visit were some tiny patches of only a few hectares altogether. To make it worse we found two piles of newly chopped firewood. Of the the rare birds we managed to find 2-4 White-browed Tit-Spinetails, 1 Tawny Tit-Spinetail, 1 Line-fronted Canastero and 2 Giant Conebills, before we were hit by a snow storm. Thus we dipped Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant and Royal Cinclodes (and some other stuff). The best strategy when birding the Polylepis patches is to be dropped off a few hundred meters before the pass (on the Ollantaytambo side). From there you climb and cross the ridge on your lefthand side. You then enter a side valley where the Polylepis patches are found. When you're done birding the Polylepis follow the valley down to the road, a walk of c. 4 kilometers (but much longer by car). Tell the driver to pick you up there.

The temperate forest is excellent. Well, the elfin forest at Canchaillo was very quiet (several dips), but lower down we had some great megaparties which included Parodi's Hemispingus, Golden-collared Tanager, Chestnut-bellied Mountain-Tanager, Marcapata Spinetail and many more. The birding is mostly confined to the roadside. Wheatley writes about a trail at the San Luís Restaurant. This trail was overgrown now, according to the owner. You have to start very early (04.00 is recommended) to get to the forest in the early morning. Bird activity drops considerably by 10 o'clock.

Huacarpay Lakes

Huacarpay Lakes and their surroundings is a classical birding site just south of Cuzco. Most wetland birds are easy to find, but Wren-like Rushbird and Many-colored Rush-Tyrant might be somewhat skulky. We missed the main attraction, the fabulous Bearded Mountaineer, despite thorough searching. It can be found anywhere on the slopes around the lake, but a favourite spot is supposed to be the ravine close to the main road at the southeastern part of the lake where it preferably feed on the yellow flowers of wild tobacco (we didn't find any tobacco in bloom). This is also a good spot for Rufous-fronted Canastero. Giant Hummingbird is fairly common. The lakes are easily reached by rather frequent buses going from Cuzco towards Urcos.


Posada Amazonas and Tambopata Research Center (TRC)

Rainforest Expeditions (based in Lima) owns two lodges in Tambopata: Posada Amazonas and Tambopata Research Center. The two lodges offer an almost complete range of habitats if combined, with the exception of good wetlands. The most famous feature of TRC is the huge clay-lick or ccolpa, where hundreds of parrots of up to 15 species gather everyday (including 5 species of Macaw). There are also more extensive stands of bamboo than anywhere else in Tambopata or Manu. Posada Amazonas is less well known but has excellent terra firma forest and a canopy tower. The lodges are moderately priced compared to many other Amazonian lodges, but still we had to pay $1200/person for one week including domestic flights.

Tambopata is a marvelous wilderness, largely untouched, and therefore has a very rich and approachable wildlife. Jaguars and Tapirs, for example, are regularly seen by tourists. Our reasons to go to Tambopata instead of Manu were perhaps economical in the first place. I also got very inspired by an article about TRC in Birding. Then there was this Harpy Eagle nest, which unfortunately had been empty for quite a while – still we were told that there were chances to see it there, at the nest. The critical point in choosing Rainforest Expeditions or not was whether they could provide us with a knowledgeable birdwatching guide - $1200 is a lot of money for a student, and a good guide should be provided in that price (and usually is). I pushed hard on this question, and we were promised that this was the case, no problem! As you can read in the diary the "guiding" was a major disappointment, to say the least, casting shadows on our whole stay in this wonderful wilderness. When I came home I wrote a long letter to complain, the only time I've ever done something like that, and actually got $200 back in the end. Anyway, we managed OK ending up at c. 230 species for the week, excluding quite a few trash birds that we didn't see. Among our best birds can be mentioned Bartlett's and Black-capped Tinamous, Horned Screamer, Orinoco Goose, Razor-billed Curassow, Pale-winged Trumpeter, Sunbittern, Blue-headed Macaw, Black-capped Parakeet, Amazonian Pygmy-Owl, Pavonine Quetzal, White-throated and Great Jacamars, Rufous-capped Nunlet, Scarlet-hooded Barbet, Curl-crested Aracari, Bar-bellied and Lineated Woodcreepers, Bamboo Antshrike, Ihering's Anwren, Manu, White-throated, Goeldi's and White-lined Antbirds, White-cheeked Tody-Tyrant, Dusky-tailed Flatbill, Plum-throated Cotinga, White-browed Purpletuft, Lawrence's and Hauxwell's Thrushes and White-winged Shrike-Tanager.

Both Posada Amazonas and TRC provide excellent birding, but if you're not experienced in the Amazonian avifauna and want expert guiding, these are not the best places to go. Hopefully this will change, and perhaps it already has. To have professional guides is essential if you want to get serious birders as customers. Rainforest Expedition's website is found at:


The Tavara River is a small tributary that enters Tambopata River about one hour upstream from TRC. The nature here is far from civilization and totally untouched! It's wild and very beautiful. We were the first to enter the area in two years! Almost 2 hours upstream on the Tavara (a pretty good climb!) you get to the point where the Guacamayo and Candamo rivers form the Tavara. Wildlife here is more abundant and unaware than in most other parts of the Amazon. We weren't very lucky, but we did get good views of Capybaras, 1 Red Brocket Deer and 3 Giant Otters. Birding is restricted to the riverside and a 5 km trail through foothill forest to a view point. Thanks to our ignorant guide we didn't see many birds (see diary), but nice encounters were those of Sunbittern, Fasciated Tiger-Heron, Plum-throated Cotinga and White-browed Purpletuft. With a network of trails and other facilities this could easily become one of the best birding areas in the southern Peruvian foothills.

Central Peru

Lake Junín

The town of Junín in the high Andes of central Peru is easily reached by bus from Lima. Take a bus towards Huánuco (5½ hours). There are a few small hotels in town, most in the vicinity of the town plaza - bring a sleeping bag, because the nights are chilly. There is also a small and very simple hotel in Ondores, the premier birding site around Lake Junín. Buses to Ondores (half an hour, 1.50 soles) go every hour, starting at 07.00. Ask for directions. In Ondores you have to register at the Junín reserve office and pay an entrance fee (10 soles). The shores of Lake Junín are full of birds. You shouldn't have any problems finding most of the wetland species around. The beautiful Andean Avocet, though, is uncommon and might not always be present. The grasslands support different pipits, miners, lots of Andean Negritos and such stuff. Nearby shrubby slopes hold Black-breasted Hillstar. In the village itself we surprisingly found 3 Yellow-rumped Siskins.

To see the famous Junín Grebe you must get out on the lake. Junín Grebes are never found close to shore. Several groups of birders claim that they've seen the grebe from shore, but it's so similar to the Silvery Grebe that it should be impossible to make a safe identification in 99 out of 100 cases. The Junín Grebe is critically endangered, but the population has risen from 170 in the 1980's to 300 in 1999. Good! There is one boat in the lake (and some toad hunting rafts which I wouldn't recommend – besides, they've hunted the toads to the verge of extinction, so maybe there aren't any of them left). We were extremely lucky to meet the biologist Carlos Arias, who had access to the motor of the boat - he had shown the grebe to Phoebe Snetsinger the day before!! The only good way to see the Grebe at the moment is to contact Carlos and arrange a boat trip. You can reach him at:

We had three Junín Grebes, and I'm telling you – you have to get pretty close to be really sure it's a Junín and not a Silvery Grebe…

The Junín Rail is something you can forget, unless you intend to spend months searching for it in the reeds. There is one comfortable way to see it though – there are two stuffed birds at the Panorama café in Ondores!

San Mateo

San Mateo is a small town at c. 3000 meters on the west slope of the Andes, right on the central highway. The surrounding hillsides are rocky, mixed with grass, shrub, cacti, eucalyptus and agricultural fields. The best birding area is found on the fairly untouched southern slope. Cross the river near the town plaza and follow the road climbing the slope to the southwest. Ignore the road going southeast, it ends up at a nearby mine. The species to concentrate on are the endemics - Bronze-tailed Comet, Black Metaltail, Rusty-crowned Tit-Spinetail, Canyon Canastero (dip) and Rusty-bellied Brush-Finch. Straight-billed Earthcreeper is present at higher altitudes. Other species in the area are i.e. Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, Andean Swift, Giant Hummingbird, Rufous-webbed Tyrant, Mourning Sierra-Finch and possibly Great Inca-Finch.


The area around Milloc bog, often referred to as "Marcapomacocha" (which as a matter of fact is 25 road kilometers away), is a beautiful area in the high Andes at c. 4500 metres. Beautiful, yes, but beware of altitude sickness at these elevations and take it slow and easy.

To get to the Milloc area you need a car. We hired a driver in San Mateo for one day, paying $45. Between the highway and the pass before the Milloc/Marcapomacocha crossroad there is a small mineral bog about 200 meters away on the righthand side. Here we found our White-bellied Cinclodes as well as an Olivaceous Thornbill. That was on our way back, we started the birding at the crossroad itself. The flat and boggy terrain on the lefthand side is the classical site for White-bellied Cinclodes, which we weren't able to locate here. At noon we made another try, but instead of the Cinclodes we found our third Diademed Sandpiper-Plover! Quite unexpected!

The Milloc bog is situated in the bottom of a valley best reached from the Milloc road. From the junction the road rises gradually and after just a couple of kilometers you see a wide valley to your right. The bog is at the bottom of this valley. If you walk through the whole valley you end up at the Marcapomacocha road – tell the driver to pick you up there. There are two small lakes on the far left at the head of the valley, barely visible from the road. Giant Coot as well as other waterbirds is breeding here. The Diademed Sandpiper-Plovers prefers the stony stream leading into the bog on the righthand side of the valley. Other birds to look out for include Andean Condor, Rufous-bellied and Gray-breasted Seedsnipes, Olivaceous Thornbill, Black-breasted Hillstar, Dark-winged and Slender-billed Miners, Striated Earthcreeper, Junín Canastero, Black Siskin and several Ground-Tyrants.

Paracas/Islas Ballestas

Classical birding, and almost a must for the first-time visitor to Peru. There are hourly buses from Lima to Pisco, taking about 3½ hours. Cheap accommodation is plentiful in Pisco. Paracas is 15 kilometers south of Pisco, but there are frequent mini buses from dawn till dusk. The Hotel Paracas in Paracas itself is the one which is best situated for birders, but you have to pay at least $70/night and room. Nothing for budget birders like us, of course, but they have very good trips to the Islas Ballestas and Peruvian Sheartail in their garden. We chose to go with their boat, which cost $20. It takes one hour to get to the islands and back, and one hour is spent out there. That's too little time, because there's so much to see and photograph. The real dazzler is of course the Inca Tern – an amazing bird! Most species are seen also from shore, but not the Humboldt Penguins which are getting rarer every year. The pelagic birds are seldom seen here, but Sooty Shearwater and Peruvian Diving-Petrel (dip) are regularly found. To see the real pelagics you have to organize a boat trip of your own to go to the upwelling zone where species like Black-browed and Waved Albatrosses, Southern Fulmar, Chilean Skua, several Storm-Petrels, Cape Petrel and Swallow-tailed Gull can be found during the austral winter.

The best birding on the Paracas Peninsula is at Lagunillas on the southern shore (take a taxi) and in the shallow inner parts of the Paracas Bay. Herons, waders, terns, gulls, cormorants, boobies and pelicans are everywhere. The rocky outcrop at Lagunillas is good for Peruvian Seaside-Cinclodes and Blackish Oystercatcher while the Paracas Bay is the best place for waders and Chilean Flamingo. Coastal Miners are found between the museum and the Bay, as are Peruvian Thick-knees (though we couldn't find any of those here).

The Slender-billed Finch is a speciality we missed because of a road work. Not very funny to walk 15 kilometers in the desert… The finch is otherwise found in desert shrub 7-8 kilometers from Paracas by the old road between Paracas and the PanAmerican highway. Agricultural land north of Pisco has about the same species (but a little bit more diverse) as Lurin (the following site). We wanted to go birding there but were strongly recommended by locals not to. The risk of getting robbed is very high, they said. Be careful in Pisco too, robbery is commonplace. Stick to the very central parts of town, especially in the dark hours.


The agricultural surroundings of Lurin, some 30 kilometers south of Lima, are easily reached by bus from Lima. For birders on public transport this area is convenient to see most of the birds found in this kind of habitat. The most productive area proved to be fields to the west, between the town and the PanAmerican highway. We started to walk at the northern limit of the town, walking southwards between the fields and found i.e. Peruvian Thick-knee, Scarlet-fronted Parakeet, Peruvian Meadowlark, Yellowish Pipit, Chestnut-throated Seedeater, Chestnut-collared Swallow, Grassland Yellow-Finch and Dark-faced Ground-Tyrant. We dipped on Tawny-throated Dotterel, Least Seedsnipe, Oasis Hummingbird and Purple-collared Woodstar, all of which should be around somewhere.

Pantanos de Villa

Situated just 15 kilometers south of Lima, the wetlands of Pantanos de Villa is a nice site which can be combined with a visit to Lurin – you can take the same bus to get to both places. We didn't know exactly where the wetlands were supposed to be or what they would look like, so we walked down a track through some wet meadows between the highway and the coastline and almost missed the real place entirely. Here we saw some other nice stuff, though, including the only Pectoral Sandpiper of the trip. You'll be dropped off at a highway turn-off. Then just take the straight road going north (on the "coastal" side of the road) and walk for about 1.5 kilometers, and you'll get there. Pay the entrance fee (2 soles) at the information centre. The Pantanos are small lakes with reedbeds and marshland; there are trails and two watching towers. The best bird to be found in the wetland is Great Grebe, which is rather common. There are also a few wetland species which otherwise are confined to the Andes, namely Andean Coot, Andean Duck and Puna Ibis. The first breeding record of Puna Ibis away from the Andes was confirmed at Pantanos de Villa in 1998.

Northern Peru

Birding northern Peru on public transportation is hard work. Well, it's possible to go almost anywhere, but it's rough and very time consuming. Buses are often few and accommodation is very sparse. I concentrated on a few easily reached sites, with the most important species to see being the Marvelous Spatuletail in Pomacochas. It was very frustrating to know that there were tons of great species so close, but still not within reach. I will be back to bird northern Peru by car.


Chamaya is a small village on the main road between Chiclayo and Bagua Grande. The Jaen junction is in the middle of the village, the town itself 16 kilometers away. Along the Jaen road there is good scrub and some riparian forest. The main attraction here is the Little Inca-Finch, but there are several other Marañón endemics around. Marañón Crescentchest, Marañón Thrush, Chinchipe Spinetail and possibly Marañón Spinetail could all occur in the area. About 1 kilometer from Jaen there is a wide quebrada on the left which is easy to walk into. This is the site for Little Inca-Finch. I also had an Inca-Finch half a kilometer beyond this quebrada. Peruvian Pigeons were seen 3-4 kilometers from Chamaya. It is likely that this rare species is only a seasonal visitor to the area. Common species includes Spot-throated Hummingbird, Marañón Gnatcatcher, Marañón Thornbird and Red Pileated-Finch. There are many hotels in Jaen. The best way to get to Chamaya early in the morning is to take a shared taxi (ask where they go from).

Pomacochas/Río Chido

The small town of Pomacochas is easily reached by bus from Bagua Grande or Pedro Ruiz in the Utcubamba valley. Anywhere around the town, primarily in flowering scrub (white flowers), it is possible to see the Marvelous Spatuletail. One site is just opposite the police station, at the water supply plant. This is where I saw my female. You walk 50 meters uphill and then turn to the left. That's all! The Río Chido trail is 5 kilometers from Pomacochas towards Pedro Ruiz. Follow the trail uphill from the bridge over the river. Locals told me that it is possible to walk high up into the Cordillera Colán. Birding there could be excellent, but it takes several hours to get there I'd guess. The lower part has been much degraded. Beyond Pomacochas on the road to Moyobamba there are superb birding sites. They are all possible to reach on public transportation, but there are no accommodation and buses are few. The famous Long-whiskered Owlet site is near a roadside restaurant called El Chofercito - Abra Patricia is a name unfamiliar to most locals. The ridgetop forest where the Owlet was netted is situated about 20 minutes walk back towards Pomacochas (but for how long?). I WILL BE BACK to explore this road by car!


Rafan, a small village in the middle of the coastal desert, is easily reached by bus from Chiclayo to Mocupe Nuevo (30 kilometers) on the Panamericana, and a shared taxi from there (10 kilometers – 1 sol) to Rafan. This is one of only three known sites for the extremely rare Peruvian Plantcutter. Search the acacia woods on both sides of the road just east of the village. If they are still there you will probably find them rather quickly, as well as many other Tumbesian endemics. Look especially for Rufous Flycatcher, Cinereous Finch (common), Gray-and-white Tyrannulet and Sulphur-throated Finch. Fields in the area might hold Least Seedsnipe and Tawny-throated Dotterel.


Site descriptions for all visited sites in Ecuador, except for the San Francisco entrance of Podocarpus NP, are found in my Ecuador report from 1997. The San Francisco entrance is right on the road between Loja and Zamora. The HQ itself is situated on a ridge 100 meters from the road, and it's signposted. The trail system is very limited right now, but the area has just opened up. Too bad my birding here was destroyed by gruel weather.

Río Ñambí, Colombia

The Río Ñambí reserve on the west slope of the western Andes near Altaquer (which is just west of Ricaurte on the road to Tumaco) in southern Colombia, can be reached in one day with bus from Quito. [For details, see the field station profile in Tropinet Vol. 8 No. 4 (1997)]. From the Colombian border town Ipiales there is a short cut to the Tumaco road. Ask around for a shared taxi to drive you there. The route via Pasto is much longer but beautiful. I took the short cut on my way back. In Altaquer you have to visit the FELCA office to make arrangements for the visit. The current prices are $25 including meals or $12 without meals. It is expected that you pay a tip to the guide who's with you. The facilities at the reserve are simple but comfortable. There are only a few trails - the main trail is the best one. The most sought-after species of the reserve are i.e. Chocó Vireo, Plumbeous Forest-Falcon, Baudó Guan, Beautiful Jay, Chocó Poorwill, Black Solitaire, Dark-breasted Wood-Quail, Orange-breasted Fruiteater and Blue-whiskered Tanager. Several new reserves have recently opened up in the area, giving opportunities to find more rare Chocó endemics. Above Ricaurte is the La Planada reserve, which I had planned to go to but didn't. Specialities of the area includes Star-chested Treerunner, Purplish-mantled Tanager, Hoary Puffleg, Black Solitaire and Tanager-Finch.

Diary, part 1

by Mathias Bergström (and Samuel - Tambopata)

5/6 Left Arlanda 13.15 with Iberia to Barcelona and then on to Madrid.

6/6 Early morning flight from Madrid to Lima. We arrived in Lima late afternoon where we took a taxi to our pre-booked hotel not too far from the airport.

7/6 Morning flight with Aero Continente to Cuzco. Arrived in Cuzco around 11.30 where we had to wait about one hour for one of our backpacks that had ended up on a later plane. We found a cheap room at the Santo Domingo convent. A man at the convent served us a nice cup of coca tea so we could adjust to the high altitude. After lunch at Barry Walker's Cross Key pub we took a taxi up to the Sachayhuman ruins. We birded around the ruins a couple of hours and walked the trail back to Cuzco.

8/6 In the morning we took the 7 O'clock train from Cuzco to Águas Calientes. The train was fairly slow so we had time to id some birds. There were a lot of Andean Lapwings and Andean Gulls. We also saw Bar-winged Cinclodes, Torrent Tyrannulets and two Torrent Ducks. We arrived in Águas Calientes around noon and had no trouble finding a room. In the afternoon we walked the road from the village to the Machu Picchu train station. Along the river we saw White-capped Dippers and in a bird party there were several species of tanagers (Saffron-crowned, Blue-necked and Golden-naped). We walked along the railroad past the train station to the site for Andean Cock of the Rock. After a while we found one female. Other good birds include Variable Antshrike, Golden-olive Woodpecker and Barred Becard. On the way back to our hostal we heard a bunch of parrots. While trying to locate them we found two male Andean Cock-of-the-Rocks!

9/6 In the morning we took the first bus (6.30 am) to the Machu Picchu ruins. We concentrated our first efforts on finding the Inca Wren which was not hard. They were easily found in the bamboo at the higher parts of the ruins where the Inca trail starts. We spent a couple of hours walking among the ruins. We had a superb sighting of a female Peregrine flying along the hillside and also several Green-and-white Hummingbirds were seen. Around 10 o'clock we started to walk the road back to Águas Calientes. We had several feeding flocks along the way. A lot of new species, among them Rust-and-yellow Tanager, Highland Elania, Sierran Elania, Capped Conebill and Thick-billed Euphonia + excellent views of White-eared Solitaires. While waiting for lunch at a restaurant we saw a birder walk in to a hotel across the street. Mathias rushed over there to talk to him and it happened to be Barry Walker himself. He introduced us to a guy who's mother owns the El Auberge hostal in Ollantaytambo. He promised to help us arrange a car for a daytrip to Abra Málaga the following day. After some quick birding in a nearby hotel garden (Emerald Toucanet), we took the train to Ollantaytambo where we arrived around 6.30 pm. We decided to stay at the El Albergue and the guy fixed a car with driver for the next day.

10/6 Started from Ollantaytambo 4 am so we would reach the pass in time for sunrise. We continued about 20 km past the pass and started to bird along the road. We heard Diademed Tapaculo and saw Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanagers, Masked Flowerpiercers, Moustached Flowerpiercers and Rufous-breasted Chat-tyrants. We continued down to San Luis Restaurant. We had several mixed species flocks containing Marcapata Spinetail, Parodi's Hemispingus, Three-striped Hemispingus, Buff-breasted Mountain-Tanager, Golden-collared Tanager, Chestnut-bellied Mountain-Tanager and White-browed Conebill. Other highlights were three Red-crested Cotingas in display and a female Sword-billed Hummingbird. Around noon we started heading back towards Ollantaytambo. En route we had two Black-faced Ibises and several Speckled Teals in a little lake. Some distance past the pass we stopped to stretch our legs and was fortunate enough to see 3 ad. Andean Condors soaring in a distance. We got good views in the scope.

11/6 Another 4 am start, this time with another driver. We reached the Abra Málaga pass by 6 am and started the hike up a ridge to reach the polylepis forest. At first we were unsure if we were at the right place. There were only small patches of polylepis. Could this really be the right place? We walked farther uphill searching for more forest but realized that this was it.

It started to rain and snow and birding got really difficult. But we managed to find some of the nice species found in this habitat, White-browed Tit-Spinetail, Tawny Tit-Spinetail, Line-fronted Canastero and Giant Conebill. We had arranged with the driver to pick us up about one hour hike down the valley. We saw a lot of ground tyrants but few got identified because of the bad weather conditions. When we reached the road again we were hungry and wet and decided to drive back towards Ollantaytambo for lunch. After lunch we drove some kilometers back towards the pass and birded along the road. There were not so much activity but we saw Creamy-crested Spinetails and Yellow-bellied Tit-Tyrants. In late afternoon we visited the Inca ruins in Ollantaytambo. We did not see many birds, but this temple is well worth a visit.

12/6 We took the first morning bus to Urubamba and there we changed to the Cuzco bus. In Cuzco we again stayed at the convent. After lunch we took the bus to Huacarapay lakes about one hour east of Cuzco. We walked around the lake clockwise. The target species here was the Bearded Mountaineer, but unfortunately we couldn't find any. But we saw several Giant Hummingbirds, Rusty-fronted Canastero, Wren-like Rushbirds and Many-colored Rush-Tyrants. On the open water there were hundreds of Andean Coots and Common Moorhens and a lot of Puna Teals.

13/6 Early morning flight from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado. At the airport our guide from Rainforest Expedition, Aldo, met us. The river port was 15 minutes by bus from the airport.

We were very excited about being in the jungle. The boat trip to our first lodge, the Posada Amazonas, took about two hours. We saw several Bat Falcons, 1 ad. King Vulture, a very beautiful Capped Heron and many common riverside birds. When walking up the short trail to the lodge we heard a Pavonine Quetzal, which unfortunately couldn't be seen. After lunch we were very eager to get out birding, so we walked the trail to a canopy tower nearby. We stayed in the canopy tower until sunset. The best birds seen were 3 Blue-headed Macaws and a flock of around 20 Curl-crested Aracaris. Unfortunately we were not alone in the tower all the time. A group of very noisy American tourists destroyed the mood. Moreover, and a lot more serious, our guide, who also turned out to be the manager of Posada Amazonas/TRC (!!!!!), showed poor birding skills (almost non-existent when it came to passerines) except for parrots and other big birds, and he didn't seem to know many sounds. That was certainly a bad feeling, but we hoped that at least he would know where to find good birds and that he would do a good work to help us to find what we wanted to see.

14/6 Before breakfast we again spent some time in the canopy tower. This time we were alone and managed to both hear and see more birds, i.e. 5 Red-throated Caracaras, 6 Red-and-green Macaws, 1 Red-necked Woodpecker, 2 Slender-footed Tyrannulets, 1 Lawrence's Thrush. After breakfast we walked a trail in terra firma forest where we found several goodies, including 2 Pale-winged Trumpeters (glimpsed), 3 Golden-crowned Spadebills, 2 Ruddy-tailed Flycatchers, 3 Chestnut-tailed Antbirds and 1 Chestnut-crowned Foliage-gleaner. Just before noon it was time to continue upriver to Tamboparta Research Center.

It was only the two of us and a Canadian photographer, Scott Francis, who was going there this day. The trip took approx. 5 hours and the farther we went, the wilder the nature became. Birds of special note were 4 Horned Screamers, 2 Orinoco Geese and 3 Sand-colored Nighthawks. About the first thing we saw when we came ashore were 2 Razor-billed Curassows! That felt very promising! In the evening we had some time of daylight left, so we walked to a strategic point at the top of the claylick where birds can be seen at a close distance. The best birds were 2 Blue-throated Piping-Guans, lovely Macaws of 4 species, 1 Bluish-fronted and 2 White-throated Jacamars and 1 Pygmy Antwren. Maybe everything would turn out good after all!

15/6 Before dawn most guests at the lodge went to watch the morning rush of parrots at the clay lick. Normally the parrots are viewed from the opposite side of the river, but this morning we were allowed to stand on a strech of clay and sand rather close to the ccolpa. This was a wonderful experience. First the Blue-headed Parrots and Chestnut-fronted and Red-bellied Macaws came in large, noisy flocks. A bit later the big macaws arrived. Up to 15 Blue-and-yellows was at the clay lick twice for a short time, otherwise most large macaws sat in trees and flew around now and then. After breakfast we went bamboo birding on the A-trail, and it was now that our guide Aldo started to act strange. He didn't know anything about the bamboo birds (!), and showed little interest. We had few birds in the bamboo, but were able to find 2 White-cheeked Tody-Tyrants, 1 White-lined Antbird (more heard), 1 Black-capped Tinamou and 2 Ihering's Antwrens. Bamboo Antshrikes and Goeldi's Antbirds were heard. In the afternoon we went to a small lagoon where we could watch 4 Hoatzins, and on the nearby beach we found 3 Little Ground-Tyrants among others. Our hopes that Aldo could be of good help was decreasing fast, but we tried to be as positive as possible.

16/7 The first weird day. At dawn it was raining. A lot. We got up anyway to be fully prepared when the rain stopped. The chef fixed a very simple breakfast for us, and when the raining ceased we went to look for Aldo. He was asleep, but was awakened by another guy. We asked if we could walk ahead slowly on the C-trail. No problem, Aldo would catch up with us within 20-25 minutes. He never came, leaving us like question marks in the forest, feeling guilty that we were walking without a guide which you have to do. Anyway, it felt much better to walk alone instead with a guide that showed a minor interest in his job. The best observation was that of 9 Pale-winged Trumpeters in one flock! When we came back to the lodge Aldo wasn't there. He was guiding some other people instead, and he didn't say a word to us when he came back! In the lodge clearing we found a stunning male Scarlet-hooded Barbet. In the afternoon we had our last real "guiding" by Aldo when we walked to a palm swamp. Good species on this sweaty walk was 1 male Band-tailed Manakin and 1 White-winged Shrike-Tanager. In the evening Aldo convinced us to make a trip to the Tavara River. We had requested this in the beginning, but turned it down in the end. This information apparently had not reached Aldo, so there was staff at TRC for this purpose only. We agreed to take the tour.

17/7 The expedition to the Tavara River was one of the absolutely most exciting things I've ever experienced. At least it should have been. The foothills were so beautiful, but the day was clouded by total ignorance from Aldo and the feeling that we by grace alone had been allowed to join a TRC staff fishing trip. We had made clear to Aldo that the main reason for the trip of course was birding, and then especially concentrated to a trail in the foothills to a viewing point. Well, we did walk that trail - late in the afternoon, and it was more like a jungle race. Aldo walked far ahead of Mathias, Scott (the photographer) and me. We hardly saw him during the entire 10 km rush, and of course we saw hardly any birds at all. Now we're talking weird, big time! Anyway, we did see some good birds during the day, i.e., 2 Sunbitterns, 4 Fasciated Tiger-Herons, 1 male Plum-throated Cotinga and 2 White-browed Purpletufts.

18/6 We gave Aldo a last chance. The situation was the same as 2 days before, rain in the morning and Aldo sleeping. When the rain stopped he followed us on the A-trail. Or, more correctly, he walked silently 20-25 meters ahead of us. After just 15 minutes there was a shower again, so we returned to the lodge. After the shower we walked away without Aldo. We didn't want him to ruin anything more now... We had a great birding morning after that, seeing 1 Rufous-capped Nunlet, 4 White-throated Antbirds, 2 Ornate Antwrens, 2 Dusky-tailed Flatbills, 1 Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher and 1 Hauxwell's Thrush and many more. Samuel jumped high in the air when a lime green Bamboo Pit Viper appeared right on the track! Mathias unfortunately missed it. After lunch it was time to return to Posada Amazonas where we arrived in the late afternoon.

19/6 Our last day in the Amazon. Actually we gave Aldo a second final chance, with pretty much the same result as yesterday. Again we had great birding when we were on our own.

We were lucky to find a mega party which contained, among others, 1 Red-stained Woodpecker, 1 Strong-billed, 1 Bar-bellied and 1 Lineated Woodcreeper, 2 Striped Woodhaunters, 2 Chestnut-winged Hookbills, 1 Great Jacamar and both Black-capped and Pink-throated Becards. We also saw several Black-capped Parakeets and 3 Brown-mandibled Aracaris.

In the afternoon we went to a lagoon, but unfortunately we were hit by a windy shower. Aldo blamed us for this... In the evening Scott found a Spectacled Owl for us - as a matter of fact Scott showed us many cool things during our week in Tambopata. Without him it would have been even more miserable... We had very mixed feelings about the week. The nature of course was extraordinary, not least the Tavara, and we did find 230 species of birds and several nice mammals. But then there was this "guiding thing" that destroyed so much. It was not only that our guide was a lousy birder, his ignorance and unprofessionalism was the worst part.

20/6 We got up very early so we would be at the airport in time. During the flight we were lucky to spot Machu Picchu from above. We arrived in Lima around noon and after some hassle at the airport we took a cab to San Isidro, a nice district of Lima. A friend of ours, Gunilla, is working for Alfa Laval and she has a very nice apartment were we had been invited to stay. From the eleventh floor we had nice views of a Peregrine hunting pigeons at a golf-course. It was nice to be back in civilisation, take a hot shower and eat a good Swedish dinner.

21/6 This day was basically a resting day. In the afternoon we went to an internet café and to the bus station to get tickets for our trip to Junín the following day.

22/6 In the morning we took a taxi to the bus station and to our surprise the bus departed almost on time. It was a modern long-distance bus. During the trip, Inka Kola and some snacks were served and on TV we watched a Van Damme movie. The bus ride took about 6 hours. When we arrived in Junín, the bus driver did not seem to have any intention to stop but after some sign-language Mathias convinced him that we wanted to go off. In the evening we went for a short walk. We saw some Andean Geese and Plain-breasted Earthcreepers.

23/6 In the morning we took the first bus to Ondores, a little village on the western shore of Lake Junín. In Ondores we were hoping to find someone who could take us on a boat ride to look for the Junín Grebe. We hadn't walked far when a guy saw us and shouted "Are you birdwatchers, looking for Podiceps tazcanowskii?" His name was Carlos and he explained that he had a boat with motor and he could take us for a ride. He was waiting for a British bird group but had time to show us the grebe before they would arrive. We gladly accepted, and after talking with a friend of his, we were on our way. We saw several Junín Grebes at a very close distance. We also realized that it would have been virtually impossible to spot any of these birds from shore. After the two hour boat trip, we walked along the shore of the lake.

We found several nice birds, Andean Swallow, Andean Avocet, Puna Plover, Correndera and Short-billed Pipits, Dark-winged Miner and many more. Later we met Carlos again, and we climbed a little hill where we saw a Black-breasted Hillstar.

24/6 At 7 am we took the bus to La Oroya and after a quick bus change there we were on to San Mateo. In San Mateo we arranged with a man to take us to Milloc bog the following day.

Before lunch we birded a road leading up to a mining company. But soon we had to stop because the rest of the road was off limits. Later in the afternoon we birded along another dirt road and had better luck. We saw several Black Metaltails, Bronze-tailed Comet and Rusty-crowned Tit-Spinetails.

25/6 The driver and his son (?) picked us up in his Toyota minibus around 6 am for the two hour drive to Millog Bog. The road was very bad and I don't think it would have been possible to go there with a standard car. The driver dropped us of above the bog and we started birding the lake past a little hill west of the bog. It was a really beautiful, sunny morning. At the lake we found several Giant Coots and Crested Ducks. We walked back towards the bog and had Slender-billed Miner, Black Siskins and White-winged Diuca-finches. In the bog we soon found a pair of very stunning Diademed Sandpiper-Plovers. After a chat with the local farmer we birded the area across the road, south from the bog. We did not find any White-bellied Cinclodes but we saw another Diadem Sandpiper-Plover, Ochre-naped Ground-Tyrants and Cinereous Ground-Tyrants. Our bus picked us up again and we started heading back towards Chinchan. From the car we saw Gray-bellied Seedsnipes. We made a quick stop at another bog where we were lucky to find a White-bellied Cinclodes, and we also got good views of an Olivaceous Thornbill. We got back to San Mateo around 3.30 pm where we spent the rest of the day resting.

26/6 This day was basically a long travel day. We took the bus back to Lima and from there another bus to Pisco. In the afternoon we had time for a little birding so we went to Hotel Paracas and made a reservation for the boat trip to the Islas Ballestas on the 28/6. We birded the hotel garden and saw Amazilia Hummingbirds.

27/6 Our idea for this morning was to take the local bus to Paracas. We left our hotel in Pisco early to catch the first bus but it was in a scary area, and we got warned by a young couple that if walking there before dawn, we would certainly get robbed. We jumped into the first taxi we could find and asked the driver to take us to Lagunilla. Lagunilla is a little fishing village at the south end of the Paracas Peninsula. From there we saw beautiful Inca terns, Peruvian Boobies, Peruvian Terns and Peruvian Pelicans fishing in the bay. Along the shore we soon found several Blackish Oystercatchers and a pair of the endemic Peruvian Seaside Cinclodes. We walked back to the museum where we searched for Peruvian Thickknee without luck. But we did find some Coastal Miners and many different species of waterbirds.

28/6 The two hour boat trip to Islas Ballestas started at 8 o'clock. It took about 30 minutes for the speedboat to reach the islands. About one hour was spent around the islands and that felt way too short. There were of course a lot of birds around. We saw Humboldt Penguins and also several Blue-footed Boobies among all the Peruvian Boobies, thousands of Guanay Cormorants but only a few Red-legged Cormorants. We were hoping to see some other seabirds but we only saw one Sooty Shearwater. In the afternoon we wanted to look for Slender-billed Finch in the area north of Pisco described in the Wheatley book. It took some time to explain to our taxi driver where we wanted to go and when we reached the place we saw several suspicious people around and our driver advised us not to bird there because of the risk of being robbed. I guess it's OK to bird the area if you're in a group but two birders are an easy target. So we decided to go back to our hotel and instead take the bus back to Lima.

29/6 This was a day without birding. Instead we visited the gold and arms museum in Lima and went shopping.

30/6 In the morning we took the bus to the town of Lurin about an hour south of Lima. Here we birded along dirt roads traversing this agricultural area. Several lifers were found: Peruvian Meadowlarks, Dark-faced Ground-Tyrant, Yellowish Pipits, Scarlet-fronted Parakeet and two Peruvian Thick-knees. After some hours birding here we caught a bus back towards Lima but jumped off near the Pantanos de Villa. We ended up a little too far south from the lagoons but our walk was rewarded with White-cheeked Pintails. From the towers around the lagoons we saw 15 Great Grebes.

Diary, part 2

by Samuel Hansson

30/6 The afternoon was spent in Gunilla's apartment where I kept busy getting all packed, watching TV, being more or less nervous… It was a strange feeling that I suddenly was to continue the journey on my own. The ticket for my bus to Chiclayo, on the coast of northern Peru, was already bought. At 20.30 it was time to say farewell. A taxi then drove me to the bus station. When the bus finally left at 21.30 I felt very relieved – now there was no turning back. As a matter of fact it felt more exciting by every minute that passed. I, Samuel, on my own in northern Peru, Ecuador and Colombia with extremely exciting birds to search for!

1/7 I didn't sleep many minutes on the bus. I usually don't. When the morning light got strong enough for me to read, I picked up Running with the demon by Terry Brooks, the only novel I had brought with me. The following week I had several exciting hours reading this book … We arrived at Chiclayo by 08.45. I instantly took a taxi to another bus terminal to get a bus to Jaen in the Marañón valley. There was a bus leaving at 11.00. Fair enough. I kept on reading the book and spent some time talking to a restroom attendant. At eleven there was no sign that the bus was going to leave in the near future. Not until 12.20, as a matter of fact. Then, after ten minutes the bus suddenly stopped. All of us had to disembark and get into another bus! Then we drove to a gas station where the new bus apparently needed some mechanical service. Finally, at 13.30, we were on our way towards Jaen… Birds were few along the road, but I did see 2 White-tailed Jays and quite a few Long-tailed Mockingbirds.

At 19.45 we arrived at Jaen. A moped taxi (Jaen is full of them!) brought me to a hotel where I got a nice room with toilet, shower and cable TV for 20 soles, only half of the normal price. I was really tired by now, but I had to eat something before going to bed. At a small restaurant just across the street I had dinner for 3.50 soles – incredibly cheap! Soon I went to sleep, dreaming of Marañón endemics…

2/7 I got up before dawn to catch a car to Chamaya, 15 kilometers away, at 06.00. The car was fast filled up with Peruvians, a rooster or two, and me. Tourists are quite scarce in Jaen, tourists going to Chamaya does hardly exist… Chamaya is a small village on the main road between Chiclayo and Bagua Grande. Fairly large tracts of undisturbed scrub forests are found when turning off towards Jaen, and this was to be the only area for me to explore in search of Marañón endemics. Marañón Gnatcatchers, Marañón Thornbirds and Spot-throated Hummingbirds were found rather quickly, as were many more widespread scrub species.

In a dry quebrada about 1 kilometer from Chamaya I found a pair of the uncommon Little Inca-Finch, which was seen very well. My 8 kilometer walk towards Jaen also produced 1-2 Peruvian Pigeons, 1 Pearl Kite, 2 Harris' Hawks, Red Pileated-Finches, Purple-throated Euphonias, Dull-colored Grassquits and 3 Pacific Parrotlets (recent immigrant to the Marañón valley?) Many beautiful flowers and butterflies were also to be found. Bird activity ceased around ten, when the temperature reached about 25 degrees. Minibuses were frequent along the road. Most of them were bursting with people, though, so I had to wait for a while to get back to Jaen. After a few hours rest I decided to walk along the road going north towards San Ignacio. Ornithologically it was quite boring, since rice fields and gardens dominated the surroundings. The people I met were very curious, though most seemed to think I must be a somewhat weird guy. A sympathetic man, who was going to Jaen with his son to sell platanos verdes (green bananas), offered me a ride back to town. For once he was a human being who didn't expect money for this service… The evening was spent watching undubbed (!!) series on TV.

3/7 Once again I went to Chamaya to try to find some more endemics. The bird activity was much slower this morning. I only found a few new birds, Drab Seedeater undoubtedly being the best species. Today I found no fewer than 3-4 Peruvian Pigeons and I actually saw one of the many singing Striped Cuckoos. Slightly disappointed I returned to Jaen, but that disappointment was soon forgotten and replaced by a staggering excitement – Pomacochas and expedition Marvelous Spatuletail was only a few hours away! At 14.00, one hour late, the bus to Moyobamba left Jaen. We soon crossed the Marañón river and entered into the beautiful Utcubamba valley, with impressive steep cliffs towering on both sides of the valley. The town of Pomacochas was reached by 17.45. At 18.00 I had checked in at a simple hotel and was on my way out birding. At 18.13 I found a female Marvelous Spatuletail!

A MARVELOUS SPATULETAIL!!!!! This was almost too good to be true! The ad. male, one of the most fabulous birds on earth, certainly felt within reach.

4/7 What was supposed to become the great spatuletail-day became a rather modest birding day in general - the Spatuletail itself could not be found... I started with a walk on the Río Chido trail, 5 kilometers from Pomacochas, saving the Spatuletail site just above the town for the afternoon. I had some nice mixed species flocks containing many tanagers, i.e. Rufous-crested and Silver-backed Tanagers, Gray-hooded Bush-Tanager and Superciliaried (White-bellied) Hemispingus. A female Golden-headed Quetzal was seen very well perched by the river. Among the hummingbirds were Collared Incas and Mountain Velvetbreasts. Peruvian specialities were disappointingly few, actually a singing Sharpe's Wren was the only new species of the whole day. I met dozens of farmers on their way to the local market. Many "buenos dias" were exchanged during this morning! In the afternoon I spent most time at the water supply station just above the town where I'd seen the female the day before. Now I only found Green-tailed Trainbearers… Reading Running with the demon in the evening was a good way to avoid thinking about spatuletail failure…

5/7 Once again I went to walk the Río Chido trail. The species seen today were very similar to those seen the day before, but nice observations were offered on i.e. a juvenile Fasciated Tiger-Heron and a White-rumped Hawk. Not far from the Río Chido trail is another area which is supposed to hold spatuletails. Down the road I walked and after a while started to climb a slope with pastures and small settlements. White flowers (=spatuletail habitat) were abundant. High up on the slope I heard a flock of parrots which soon came into view. It was no less than 19 Golden-plumed Parakeets! Then a farmer turned up, and we stood there talking for a while. The farmer, who was very friendly, was the first person I met who knew of the spatuletail. He told me that there were only one or two males in the area, and that the chance of seeing it is much greater near Pomacochas or in roadside scrub. The rest of the day was spent searching the roadside scrub and hedgerows near Pomacochas. Surprisingly I flushed 2 Puna Snipes. Rufous-capped Antshrikes were singing (1 female seen), but no spatuletails could be found. Just as I was entering into town I met an old man and his daughter who invited me into their home. I accepted the invitation, though I was quite tired, and had a nice hour with the family. The Spatuletail had to wait… Next day I had plans on going to Abra Patricia, one of the most exciting birdwatching sites in South America. Unfortunately, I was told, it was hard to get there early in the morning. You can get there by 10 am if you're lucky, maybe not until 11, and then you have to get back pretty early in the afternoon. This was a huge disappointment, and probably not worth the effort. Later in the evening I had dinner at about the only restaurant in town. The place was crowded with people since Peru played soccer in Copa America. Tired and a bit disillusioned I fell asleep early.

6/7 It was raining the next morning. A lot. As Abra Patricia was almost out of reach, this day should have been dedicated to the spatuletail again, at least the morning. It looked pretty bad.

At one time the raining almost stopped, and then I saw a White-bellied Hummingbird. But a few minutes later it was pouring down again. Then I decided to go back to Chiclayo. By 08.00 I fetched a car going to Pedro Ruiz, and goodbye to the male spatuletail, Long-whiskered Owlet, Royal Sunangel and all other fabulous birds… But I didn't go without a promise that "I will be back" one day - and then with a car! At Pedro Ruiz I instantly found a minibus going to Bagua Grande. Along the road I saw 3 Fasciated Tiger-Herons and a pair of Blue Ground-Doves. In Bagua Grande I had to wait 3 hours for a bus to Chiclayo. The people of this town were very curious. Four kids asked me questions constantly for more than an hour.

It was funny, though my Spanish of course wasn't enough at all. When I went to eat, a woman stopped to admire my "ojos bonitos", my beautiful blue eyes! And this went on with several other women… Back at the bus station a young woman started to talk with me. Her name was Maria, a student from Trujillo, and we talked a lot during the afternoon since the bus was delayed by landslides. She didn't only like my eyes, she even told me that I'm handsome. In a few hours I got more attention than I've ever had in my entire lifetime in Sweden… Many hours later I finally came to Chiclayo, and I quickly got to a cheap hotel where I shaved, took a well needed shower and bought some food. Tomorrow was my last birding day in northern Peru, hopefully a good ending of an otherwise comparatively poor birding week.

7/7 Before dawn I went to the bus station where I soon found the bus to Mocupe. I told the driver that I was going to Rafan, but that was clearly not enough, because when we reached the final destination I had gone too far! I had come to Mocupe Viejo, the old Mocupe, and the new Mocupe was half an hour beyond us… Luckily another bus was going back to Chiclayo almost right away. In Mocupe Nuevo there was a taxi driving through Rafan on its way to Lagunas, and at 08.15 I finally got there. Rafan is a small oasis surrounded by desert, and a small acacia wood still remains here. It took half an hour to find the bird I was looking for, a female Peruvian Plantcutter. YES! I found 5 birds altogether, 1 pair with 2 juveniles+1 single male. Many other good birds were also found: 1 Burrowing Owl, 2 Scrub Nightjars, 1 Rufous Flycatcher, 1 Gray-and-white Tyrannulet, Mouse-colored Tyrannulets (common but extremely skulky!), 1 White-edged Oriole, Superciliated Wrens and Cinereous Finches. Quite OK, but I missed a few species like Sulphur-throated Finch and Least Seedsnipe. I was back at the hotel at 12.00 and by 13.45 I was on my way to Piura. In late afternoon I reached Sullana, an industrial town with about 100,000 inhabitants, near the Ecuadorian border. Here I got acquainted with the town's money changers - very nice fellows. One of them showed me an impressive view of the Río Chira. To read Running with the demon later in the evening was more exciting than ever, and tomorrow I was going to my beloved Ecuador!

8/7 It was no trouble finding a car going to the border, and it was a beautiful morning. During the 2-hour ride I read in my exciting book and watched the rolling mountain landscape which to my surprise was extensively covered with wonderful primary forest. What a haven for Tumbesian endemics (and how frustrating not being able to bird here...)! The Ecuadorian forests are much more degraded. The crossing to Ecuador was very smooth. First I changed my soles into sucres, then went to the Peruvian emigration office, walked over the bridge to the Ecuadorian immigration office, filled some papers, and that was it! All officials were very polite. I took a taxi the few kilometres to Macará (many passengers, but I was the one who was paying!), and as usual I had to wait for a couple of hours for the bus. A young coin collector was glad when I gave him a shining Swedish krona from 1998. For the first time in quite a while I met other tourists (who had just passed the border), but none of them were of course going to Sozoranga like me. Sozoranga looked just the same as 2 years ago, but everything was even cheaper. A room at the hotel was less than a dollar! In the afternoon I walked a few kilometers towards Utuana. 29 Red-masked Parakeets, 1 Loja Hummingbird, 1 Ecuadorian Piculet, Three-banded Warblers and Silver-backed Tanagers were nice birds encountered, a bit surprising were a pair of Fawn-breasted Tanager and 4 Black-and-white Seedeaters. The dinner in the evening was great; a wonderful soup, rice and papas fritas with sausage and a coke for $1.50!

9/7 I got up before dawn to catch a bus to the nearby village Utuana. When waiting, suddenly a West Peruvian Screech-Owl started to call from a tree in the middle of the plaza. Good start! The bus ride was extremely beautiful, with cloud-filled valleys far below. Utuana is hard birding, but today I was lucky to see several very good species. From virtually the same spot I saw a male Gray-headed Antbird (a very rare bird!), 2 Unicolored Tapaculos, 1 Piura Hemispingus, 1 Mountain Velvetbreast, 2 Line-cheeked Spinetails and several species of tanagers. Other good birds seen were 3 Rainbow Starfrontlets, 1 Purple-throated Sunangel, 1 White-bellied Woodstar and 2 Black-cowled Saltators. On the way back to Sozoranga I got a lift on the platform of a pick-up, in a stand-up position. At the hotel I rested for a while and read the last chapters of Running with the demon. Too bad it was already over! In the afternoon I walked towards Yaramine where the forest is rather dry and holds many Tumbesian endemics. Some of the species seen were 1 Rufous-headed Chachalaca, 1 Pacific Pygmy-Owl, 1 Watkins's Antpitta (whistled in!), 1 Elegant Crescent-chest, 2 Collared Antshrikes, 1 Grey-and-gold Warbler, 4 White-tailed Jays and 6 Bay-crowned Brush-Finches. A very nice day!

10/7 Before dawn I started to walk the 5 kilometers to the reserve El Tundo above Sozoranga. When finally there I sat down and had breakfast with a simply wonderful view of the cloud-filled valley below. The species of the day was supposed to be Rufous-necked Foliage-gleaner, but I had to do with 1 dark morph Red-backed Hawk, 1 Golden-headed Quetzal, 1 Unicolored Tapaculo, 1 Chapman's Antshrike, 3 Hepatic Tanagers and many others. At 11.00 I was back in town, and at 12.30 I left Sozoranga for a 5½ hours ride to Loja where I spent the night.

11/7 Today, for once, I had a slow start of the day. First at 11.15 I took a bus to Zamora, 1½ hours away, and then I took a taxi to the Bombuscaro entrance of Podocarpus NP. To my surprise no staff were to be found at the HQ, only a bunch of hooligan Ecuadorian youngsters. I waited for a few hours, but no one came. When the hooligans had left I walked a bit on the trail but didn't find much. Some of the species seen during the afternoon were 6 Swallow-tailed Kites, 1 Orange-crested Flycatcher, 1 Yellow-bellied Tanager and lots of beautiful Paradise Tanagers. Since no staff had arrived at dusk I had to sleep on the floor of a little cabin. Well, I didn't exactly sleep, because I only had my sleeping bag and the floor was so uncomfortable. It felt like the night would never end…

12/7 The night did end. Most of the day was spent birding back and forth on the trail at a very slow pace. At many times it was slow, but I found many good species during the day. The two most unexpected findings were 1 Spectacled Prickletail and a flock of 15 Military Macaws, both very rare at Bombuscaro. The Prickletail might be the first record ever, while the Macaw has been seen just a few times before. Other noteworthy species were 1 singing Gray Tinamou, 1 Ruddy Quail-Dove, c. 10 White-breasted Parakeets, 1 Sunbittern, 1 male Violet-fronted Brilliant, 1 Lemon-browed Flycatcher, 1 female Blue-rumped Manakin, 1 Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo and 2 Vermilion Tanagers. The staff members had returned in the morning and kindly offered me one of their beds. I slept a lot better!

13/7 Another full day at Bombuscaro, quite slow except for a few large mixed species flocks.

Good species seen were 1 Rufous-breasted Wood-Quail (flushed from the trail), 9 White-breasted Parakeets, 1 Ecuadorian Piedtail, 1 Black-billed Treehunter, 3 Yellow-breasted Antwrens, 2 singing Short-tailed Antthrushes, 1 singing Musician Wren (phenomenal song!) and 1 male Fulvous-crested Tanager (yet another rare, maybe new, species at Bombuscaro!). An American family made a short visit during the afternoon. They had been stuck in Baños for a week due to the transport strike that raged in northern Ecuador. Apparently the strike now also had reached Loja and Zamora. That was certainly bad news…

14/7 Heavy rain started to fall in the middle of the night and went on through the early morning. Several members of the staff were to be picked up by car in the morning, and I was lucky to join them. Back in Zamora all buses and taxis were off duty. I had a steady breakfast, more like a lunch, for only $0.50. A policeman advised me to walk to the police checkpoint 3 kilometers away to hitch-hike back to Loja. On the way to the checkpoint I met several others that were going towards Loja, and we were all lucky to get a lift pretty soon. My intention now was to get off at the San Francisco entrance of Podocarpus NP. I came to the wrong place, a German scientific station that had been operating in the area for a couple of years.

A very nice place, but they charged a lot just to sleep there. The manager of the place luckily came for a short visit, so I could go back with him to the NP headquarters after an hour. The weather up there was just horrible; windy, rainy and cold. I saw seven identifiable birds, all of them Speckle-faced Parrots in one flock. The guy who worked at this yet unfinished HQ wanted to go to Loja. After a few hours I agreed on trying to get there. Sadly I had to leave this beautiful place, leaving many dream birds behind. I spent the night at the same hotel as a few days before.

15/7 This sucked! The weather looked terrible at the mountain tops of the eastern cordillera. But there were no buses anyway due to the strike. In the South American Handbook I had read about a reserve just outside Loja, so I tried to get there in the morning. Either the directions were totally wrong, or the reserve had been turned into pastures! This wasn't funny.

I went to the bus terminal to see if there were any possibilities to reach Quito. Yes, as a matter of fact there were a few buses going to Quito via Machala on the coast – 17 hours… There wasn't much more to do than buying a ticket, and goodbye to San Francisco, Acanamá and the temperate zone birds. It was going to be another l o n g night…

16/7 The bus arrived at Terminal Terrestre in Quito at 06.45. I quickly made my way to the electric bus, about the only transportation available. The buses were so crowded! I had to let several pass because I could impossibly get in there with my backpack. I was aware that I kept my passport and visa card in one of the outer pockets of my trousers, but I was so eager to get to "casa sueca", the house where I was going to stay, that I didn't care to remove them to a safer place. This wasn't so smart, I thought, when finally on the bus. More people squeezed into the bus all the time, and soon I couldn't move a bit. I felt on my pocket now and then, but suddenly it was all gone. And I know exactly who the little creep was that took my stuff. This didn't feel good at all… I started to talk with one of my neighbours, who instantly offered me his help. I followed him to the company where he worked. Soon the visa card was blocked, and then he drove me all the way to the police station! Now it certainly felt much better! From the police it wasn't far to the Swedish consulate, where I had to fill out a lot of forms. I also had to go to take passport photos and return to the consulate with them. Then all I had to do was to walk "home" about 6 kilometers through Quito with all luggage. Exhausting! Two Swedish families lived at casa sueca at the moment. It was nice to speak Swedish for a change, and it didn't take long before I started looking through the old school's library. I rested the rest of the day. The last three days had just been unbelievable! I really didn't want any more bad luck now…

17/7 After a good night's sleep I was fit for fight again. The theft wasn't going to discourage me. I had a very nice afternoon. First I watched Star Wars episode 1 (one month before it came to Sweden!) and afterwards I had a Whopper at Burger King. Perfect! I also spent a lot of time reading this day. Now it was Saturday. I had to wait at least until Monday to get my temporary passport.

18/7 Another day of resting. In the afternoon I joined one of the Swedish families on a trip to the top of Pichincha. I had told them about the Black-breasted Puffleg the day before, which might have given the idea… Unfortunately most good birds are on the northern side of the mountain though, and this was a family trip with small children, not a birding trip. I still saw some nice species, i.e. 1 Ecuadorian Hillstar and 2 Shining Sunbeams. The views of course were just splendid!

19/7 Today I was going to get my new passport, I hoped. At 09.30 they called from the consulate and told me that my real passport had been found! In the afternoon it was mine again, so now I could start to pack for my trip to Colombia! Wow, not so quick, my stomach thought. In the evening I got food poisoned and puked… My "week of bad luck" wasn't over after all!

20/7 I didn't get up as early as I had planned, in case the stomach would turn out to make trouble again, but I felt much better than expected. The strike was now settled, so I took a taxi to the bus terminal and was on my way to Tulcán by 10.15. Passing the border to Colombia was as easy as between Peru and Ecuador. At the Colombian immigration office I met a young man from Switzerland. We traveled together the rest of the day, and ended up in Pasto at dusk. We also shared a room at a nice hotel. He was going north the next day and I was going west to the famous reserve Río Ñambí in search of Vireo masteri - the Chocó Vireo.

21/7 At 07.00 the bus left for Tumaco. 3½ hours later I jumped off at the little village Altaquer in the lower subtropics of the western slope. It was raining a bit, not very surprising since the annual rainfall averages 8000 millimeters! It took a while before I could go to the reserve, but at one o'clock two young Colombians and I were on our way to Río Ñambí a few kilometers away. One of the guys was supposed to be kind of a guide, the other one was a friend of his. They were both very service minded and made my stay comfortable. The walk up to the house was sweaty, but it was only a few kilometers. The afternoon gave some nice birds before it started to rain: 1 pair of Dark-breasted Wood-Quails heard, 1 Empress Brilliant, 1 male Velvet-purple Coronet (in poor light), 2 Brown Incas (turned out to be a common and conspicuous hummer here), 1 Yellow-vented Woodpecker, 2 Pacific Tuftedcheeks, 1 Immaculate Antbird, 4 Indigo Flowerpiercers, 2 Moss-backed Tanagers and 5 Glistening-green Tanagers. The tanagers was to be seen every day here. Tomorrow was going to be such a great day, I thought, with tons of Chocó endemics…

22/7 It rained almost the whole day. We were only able to go for a few short walks, and the clearing was much more quiet than you could expect. However, some good birds were seen during the day: 1 male Golden-headed Quetzal, 1 Broad-billed Motmot, 1 Rufous-breasted Antthrush (whistled in!), 1 female Orange-breasted Fruiteater, 1 Bronze-olive Pygmy-Tyrant, 2 Black-chinned Mountain-Tanagers and a probable Blue-whiskered Tanager. The rain went on throughout the evening…

23/7 Today the weather was almost the opposite! The forest was very quiet, but several good species were found. I was lucky enough to spot a Chocó Vireo for about 5 seconds before it disappeared into the canopy. YES! Worth to mention are also 1-2 Rufous-rumped Antwrens, 3 male Golden-winged Manakins, 1 Green (Lita) Manakin, 1 pair of Orange-breasted Fruit-eaters and 1 Beautiful Jay. At dusk two nightjars hunted in the vicinity of the clearing. They were seen pretty well and positively identified as Chocó Poorwills!

24/7 This was my last day at Río Ñambí. The best observation was undoubtedly that of a pair of Dark-breasted Wood-Quails that was seen very well right on the trail! Otherwise I didn't see any new species, except for some trash birds new for the trip when I was waiting for a bus to come. Río Ñambí was a nice place, but I had counted on seeing more birds. Maybe it was a quiet time of the year. I had planned to visit the nearby reserve La Planada as well, but I didn't feel like walking 7 kilometres fully packed uphill - besides I was short of money. Instead I went back to Ecuador and stayed the night in Tulcán.

25/7 I took an early bus from Tulcán and was back at casa sueca by 10.30. Once again I went to Burger King, after that I watched Star Wars a second time. Great!

26/7 Instead of La Planada in Colombia I went to Bella Vista Lodge just west of Quito.

To get to Nanegalito is no problem, but then you have to get someone to drive you farther to Bella Vista. I found a driver, a rather expensive one, and got there at 10.00. During the 24 hours I was there I spent most time looking for the Tanager-Finch which had been seen regularly the last weeks. I didn't succeed the first day, but I saw many other nice birds. At the hummingbird feeders were abundant Buff-tailed Coronets, 1 male+1 female Fawn-breasted Brilliant, 1 Collared Inca, 1 male Purple-throated Woodstar and others. 2 Hook-billed Kites, 5 Gorgeted Sunangels, 2 Plate-billed Mountain-Toucans, 1 male Black-and-white Becard, 1 Black-capped Tyrannulet and 2 Grass-green Tanagers were also seen. Bamboo species heard were i.e. Ocellated and Spillman's (common) Tapaculos and 1 Long-tailed Antbird. At dusk a Colombian Screech-Owl called a few times. Lou Jost, an artist and freelance naturalist living in Quito, was guiding a couple from Texas. It was nice to talk with birders for a change.

27/7 At dawn 2 Lyre-tailed Nightjars, 1 Rufous-bellied Nighthawk and 1 Common Potoo were heard. Otherwise it was a rather quiet morning, which I mostly spent patrolling in the area where the Tanager-Finches had been seen, without any result. The best bird seen was a Crested Quetzal that I whistled in! I also had 1 Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan, 2 Rufous Spinetails and 1 Barred Hawk. I was supposed to walk all the way down to the main road (tough!), and then take a bus towards Mindo, but was lucky to get a ride with the owner's wife. She was going to Los Bancos, so I got all the way to the Mindo crossroad! I started to walk down the road towards Mindo at noon. The forest was even more degraded than two years ago, and bird activity was low. A Nariño Tapaculo was heard, and the most interesting birds seen were 3 Barred Parakeets (high overhead), 7 Maroon-tailed Parakeets, 1 Brown Violetear and 1 Brown Inca. Halfway down I met a British birder. I checked in at the same hotel as he lived at down in Mindo. This guy had been all over Central America and Venezuela before. I called him the "super birder" because he had seen so many species where ever he'd been. For example he'd been to Podocarpus, 2 days at Cajanuma and 2 days at Bombuscaro, and seen "maybe 200 species" in constant pissing rain! If you see 200 species at Bombuscaro and Cajanuma under perfect conditions it is still a very good list. In constant pissing rain I usually end up with hardly anything…

28/7 Full day at the ridge south of Mindo. This was one of my best birding days with 93 species seen until 15.00. Of course the "super birder" had seen no fewer than 114 species!

A dog followed me the whole day - I just couldn't get rid of it. It did one good thing though – flushed a pair of Dark-breasted Wood-Quails into good view! Here are some other of the birds seen: 1 Hook-billed Kite, 1 Short-tailed Hawk (dark morph, possibly the first record for Mindo!), 1 Green-fronted Lancebill, 1 male Purple-bibbed Whitetip, 1 female Empress Brilliant, lots of Golden-headed Quetzals, 3 Toucan Barbets, 5 Pale-mandibled Aracaris, 2 Barred Puffbirds, 3 Guayaquil Woodpeckers, 2 Rufous-rumped Antwrens, 2 Streak-capped Treehunters, 4 Club-winged Manakins heard, 2 Metallic-green Tanagers and many more. The whole Mindo area had changed a lot during the past two years. Private reserves were everywhere, with fences and signs telling you had to pay to get inside. There were however no prices on the signs, so I didn't dare to go inside. Who carries a lot of cash in the forest? Thus I missed some of the best birding areas. In the evening another young birder showed up at the hotel. He was an American from Pennsylvania. It turned out that both of us had been working at Whitefish Point Bird Observatory in Michigan 1994, but at different seasons. Now he was working as a guide at Sacha Lodge in the Amazon. That sounded a little bit tempting…

29/7 My last day in Mindo I went to the Yellow House Trail. It was a rather quiet morning. Some of the best birds seen were 2 male Cock-of-the-Rocks and 1-2 Ochre-breasted Antpittas. Bella Vista and Mindo only produced 2 new species for me, but I did have a couple of great birding days. In the afternoon I returned to Quito, and in the evening I went to watch the new Disney film Tarzan – quite OK!

30/7 Full day in Quito. I went to Burger King of course, and to watch a movie – but this time it wasn't Star Wars. It was The Mummy, a somewhat weird film, rather exciting and entertaining at times, but predictable and with a little bit too much meaningless violence for my taste. Tomorrow it was time for my last birding trip, to the east slope. Where was the time going? It felt like I wasn't ready to go home yet for a while.

31/7 At 07.30 I took a Lagro Agrio bus from the bus terminal. 5½ hours later I jumped off at the San Rafael Falls in the lower subtropics. The fall itself is magnificent, and there are many interesting species of birds to be found. The weather today was very cloudy and rainy at times, but I found several nice birds: 2 White-tailed Hillstars, 1 female Wedge-billed Hummingbird, 2 Highland Motmots, 1 Coppery-chested Jacamar, 2 Variegated Bristle-Tyrants, 3 Cock-of-the-rocks and many tanagers. I also saw 2 White-fronted Capuchins. In the evening I met a nice American birding couple, David and Connie Ekdahl from California. They had been watching a fruiting tree for several hours and seen many good birds. I saw 2 Sickle-winged Guans there. A good start!

1/8 Full day at San Rafael. I birded mostly on my own, but David and Connie were also around until noon. I had many wonderful birds this day. The best finding was a nest hole of Coppery-chested Jacamar, with young heard and both parents feeding them. Others were 1 White-tipped Sicklebill, 1 male Wire-crested Thorntail (one of the most beautiful hummers in the world, though I saw it a lot better last time in Ecuador!), 1 male Rufous-vented Whitetip, 2 White-backed Fire-eyes, 1 Ecuadorian Tyrannulet, 1 male Barred Becard, 1 male Golden-winged Manakin, 8 Cock-of-the Rocks, 1 Amazonian Umbrellabird, 1 Spotted Nightingale-Thrush, 1 Pale-eyed Thrush and 2 Golden-collared Honeycreepers to mention a few.

2/8 My last morning at San Rafael Falls produced a few new exciting species: 1 juv. Black-and-chestnut Eagle, 1 Greenish Puffleg, 1 Bronzy Inca, 2 Rufous-rumped Antwrens, 1 Ash-browed Spinetail, 1 Blue-browed Tanager and 1 Olive Finch. Around 11.30 a bus picked me up, and off I went to Baeza. Well, I had to walk 3 kilometers as well. I didn't bother to do any more birding today, since good forests are more or less far from town for walking. But tomorrow I was going to Guacamayos if the weather allowed.

3/8 The weather looked OK at Baeza at dawn, but you never know if the situation is the same at Guacamayos. At 06.45 the bus reached the top of the Guacamayos ridge. The weather was fine so far. Before I went into the forest I watched Chestnut-collared Swifts fly by in small, dense flocks, numbering impressive 600 birds altogether. Unfortunately I couldn't find any White-chested Swifts among them, but it was very spectacular anyway. The ridge trail was in a very good shape, and to my surprise it went on far down the valley. Two years ago it just stopped not even halfway. Between 08.00 and 08.30 the forest was shrouded in mist, but otherwise it was a beautiful day with clear views in all directions. The bird list of the day was just amazing! Here comes some of the best birds: 1 ad. Black-and-chestnut Eagle, 1 male Fawn-breasted Brilliant, 12 Collared Incas, 2 Emerald-bellied Pufflegs, 1 Greenish Puffleg, 5 Masked Trogons, 1 Black-streaked Puffbird, 2 Black-billed Mountain-Toucans (finally! – beautiful birds!), 1 Yellow-vented Woodpecker, 3 Tyrannine Woodcreepers, 2 Strong-billed Woodcreepers, 2 Streak-capped Treehunters, 1 Moustached Antpitta heard, 2 Chestnut-naped Antpittas heard, 1 White-bellied Antpitta heard, 2 Slate-crowned Antpittas heard, 2 Spillman's Tapaculos, 1 Rufous-breasted Flycatcher, 5 Rufous-headed Pygmy-Tyrants, 4 Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrants, 12 Green-and-black Fruiteaters, 1 Olivaceous Piha, 3 Dusky Pihas, 3 Chestnut-bellied Thrushes, 2 Black-capped Tanagers, 1 Bronze-green Euphonia, 2 Vermilion Tanagers, 2 Grass-green Tanagers, 2 Slaty Brush-Finches and 4 Mountain Caciques.

Very satisfied with 84 species and 9 ticks I returned to Baeza in the late afternoon.

4/8 This my last birding day I went up to Guacamayos again. The weather was good also this day, and I had no trouble finding more interesting birds, i.e. 2 Andean Guans, 1 Highland Motmot, 1 Brown-billed Scythebill, 1 Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant, 1 Oleaginous Hemispingus and 2 Slaty Finches. Once again I saw a White-fronted Capuchin. David and Connie showed up on my way back to the radio masts. We talked for a while, then they went further on the trail, encouraged by my impressive list from the day before, and I took a bus back to Quito around 11.00. About 15 kilometers west of the Papallacta pass the front right tire got punctured… All passengers was taken up by another bus after half an hour. During the stop I saw a probable Andean Condor, 6 Caranculated Caracaras and 2 Spot-billed Ground-Tyrants. Back in Quito I went to McDonald's and watched Tarzan a second time.

I couldn't believe I was going home tomorrow.

5/8 Today, my last day in Ecuador, I went shopping for a new backpack and some other stuff.

Of course I went to Burger King a last time. The price is only the half compared to Sweden, see. First I actually went for a short walk in Parque La Carolina to see Black-tailed Trainbearer. After 20 minutes I had seen 2 full males and, a bit surprisingly, 1 Giant Hummingbird. Last time in Ecuador we walked in La Carolina several times without seeing any… I also went to buy some wonderful donuts at Dunkin Donuts. In the afternoon I walked to the airport, and soon I was on my way home. I sat next to a pretty Ecuadorian girl (most Ecuadorian girls are, you know…). Our communication was entirely in Spanish, thus not very profound. We had to get off the plane in Guayaquil and wait for a couple of hours, then it was 10 hours to Madrid where the next night was spent.

6/8 The highlights of my evening in Madrid was two donuts that I had left, and the great buffet that was for free. I also went out for a walk. South America was far beyond me.

Now I wanted to come home.

7/8 The first flight took me to Barcelona, the next to Stockholm. The second flight was marvelous, with excellent views of Marseille, Provence, Alpes Maritimes and the whole western Alps! Germany was clouded over. At the Baltic Sea the clouds disappeared and I had terrific views of Falsterbo, Scania, the east coast of Sweden and Stockholm. Now I only had a few hours by train to get home. It had been a great journey, sometimes clouded by misfortune, but mostly great! The total bird list landed on 768 species and 238 lifers. Not too bad, considering that the weird circumstances in the Amazon and my "week of bad luck" probably shortened the list by almost a hundred species…

Species list

Gray Tinamou Tinamus tao 12-13/7 1 heard Bombuscaro.

Great Tinamou Tinamus major 13/6 2 heard Posada Amazonas, 15-18/6 2 heard TRC, 18-19/6 1 heard Posada Amazonas.

Cinereous Tinamou Crypturellus cinereus 13/6 5 heard, 14/6 2 heard Posada Amazonas, 16/6 3 heard TRC.

Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui 19/6 1 heard Posada Amazonas.

Undulated Tinamou Crypturellus undulatus 13-14/6 2 heard Posada Amazonas, 14/6 1 heard Posada Amazonas-TRC, 14/6 1+2 heard, 15/6 2+3 heard, 16/6 a few heard, 18/6 a few heard TRC, 19/6 3 heard Posada Amazonas.

Black-capped Tinamou Crypturellus nigrocapillus 14/6 2 heard, 15/6 1, 16/6 3 heard, 18/6 1 heard TRC.

Bartlett's Tinamou Crypturellus bartletti 15 and 18/6 1 heard TRC.

Humboldt Penguin Spheniscus humboldti** 28/6 17 ad., 1 juv. Islas Ballestas. The Humboldt Penguin has declined greatly in recent years and is now considered Vulnerable.

Pied-billed Grebe Podilymbus podiceps 30/6 2 ad. Pantanos de Villa.

White-tufted Grebe Rollandia rolland 12/6 5 Huacarpay Lakes, 23/6 4 Lake Junín, 26/6 1 Paracas.

Great Grebe Podiceps major 28/6 2 Paracas Bay, 30/6 15 Pantanos de Villa.

Silvery Grebe Podiceps occipitalis 23/6 5 Lake Junín.

Junín Grebe Podiceps taczanowskii** 23/6 3 ex. Lake Junín. YES! The populatiom now hold about 300 birds, a good increase from the 170 birds in the late 80's.

Sooty Shearwater Puffinus griseus 28/6 at least 1 Islas Ballestas.

Peruvian Pelican Pelecanus thagus 26-28/6 common Paracas/Islas Ballestas.

Blue-footed Booby Sula nebouxii 27/6 1 juv. Paracas, 28/6 c. 20 Islas Ballestas.

Peruvian Booby Sula variegata 26/6 c. 200, 27/6 c. 100 Paracas, 28/6 1000's Islas Ballestas.

Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus 14/6 11 Posada Amazonas-TRC, 14/6 1, 15/6 1 TRC, 17/6 6 TRC-Tavara, 18/6 a few TRC-Posada Amazonas, 26-28/6 common Paracas, 24/7 1 Altaquer-Ricaurte, Colombia.

Guanay Cormorant Phalacrocorax bougainvillii 27/6 14 Paracas, 28/6 c. 4000 Islas Ballestas.

Red-legged Cormorant Phalacrocorax gaimardi* 27/6 c. 10 Paracas, 28/6 5 Islas Ballestas. Very low numbers compared to other trip reports.

Anhinga Anhinga anhinga 14/6 3 Posada Amazonas-TRC, 17/6 5 TRC-Tavara, 18/6 3 TRC-Posada Amazonas.

Capped Heron Pilherodius pileatus 13/6 1 Puerto Maldonado-Posada Amazonas, 17/6 2 TRC-Tavara, 18/6 7 TRC-Posada Amazonas, 19/6 2 Posada Amazonas.

Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi 14/6 7 Posada Amazonas-TRC, 15-16/6 1 TRC, 17/6 7 TRC-Tavara, 18/6 c. 10 TRC-Posada Amazonas.

Great Egret Egretta alba 17/6 3 TRC-Tavara, 30/6 a few Pantanos de Villa, 2/7 2 Chamaya, 10/7 1 Sozoranga-Loja.

Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea 14/6 1 subad. Posada Amazonas-TRC, 23/6 1 subad. Lake Junín, 30/6 c. 10 Pantanos de Villa. The Junín individual is very noticable. An altitude high?

Snowy Egret Egretta thula 12/6 2 Huacarpay Lakes, 13-20/6 common Tambopata, 26-28/6 common Paracas, 7/7 c. 10 Mocupe, S. Chiclayo.

Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Seen in moderate numbers at many sites. In Colombia c. 10 birds were seen between Ricaurte-Ipiales 24/7.

Striated Heron Butorides striatus 30/6 1 ad. Lurin, 3 Pantanos de Villa, 2/7 1 ad. Chamaya, 6/7 1 ad. S. Bagua Grande.

Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax 23/6 12 ad. Lake Junín, 25/6 1 ad. Milloc, 30/6 c. 50 Pantanos de Villa.

Fasciated Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma fasciatum* 9/6 1 ad. Águas Calientes, 17/6 4 ad. Tavara, 5/7 1 juv. Río Chido, 6/7 3 ad. Pedro Ruiz-Bagua Grande.

Wood Stork Mycteria americana 14/6 10 Posada Amazonas-TRC, 14/6 2, 15/6 1, 16/6 1 TRC, 17/6 7 TRC-Tavara, 18/6 36 TRC-Posada Amazonas.

Black-faced Ibis Theristictus melanopis 10/6 2 Abra Málaga, 25/6 3 Milloc.

Puna Ibis Plegadis ridgwayi 12/6 5 Urubamba-Cuzco, c. 40 Cuzco-Huacarpay, 2 Huacarpay Lakes, 22/6 1 Junín, 23/6 c. 100 Lake Junín, 30/6 c. 50 Pantanos de Villa.

Chilean Flamingo Phoenicopterus chilensis 23/6 c. 50 Lake Junín, 24/6 3 Junín-La Oroya, 26-28/6 c. 210 Paracas.

Horned Screamer Anhima cornuta 14/6 4 Posada Amazonas-TRC.

Andean Goose Cloephaga melanoptera 22/6 2 Junín, 23/6 c. 200 Lake Junín, 24/6 2 Junín-La Oroya, 25/6 8 Milloc.

Orinoco Goose Neochen jubata* 14/6 2 Posada Amazonas-TRC.

Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata 13/6 1 Posada Amazonas.

Torrent Duck Merganetta armata 8/6 6 Cuzco-Águas Calientes, 9/6 1 pair Águas Calientes, 3 Águas Calientes-Ollantaytambo, 12/7 1 pair Bombuscaro.

Speckled Teal Anas flavirostris 10/6 15 Abra Málaga, 12/6 1 Huacarpay Lakes, 23/6 c. 50 Lake Junín.

Crested Duck Anas specularioides 23/6 12 Lake Junín, 25/6 19 Milloc.

Yellow-billed Pintail Anas georgica 12/6 3 Huacarpay Lakes, 23/6 c. 40 Lake Junín.

White-cheeked Pintail Anas bahamensis 30/6 11 Pantanos de Villa.

Puna Teal Anas puna 12/6 c. 50 Huacarpay Lakes, 23/6 c. 200 Lake Junín.

Cinnamon Teal Anas cyanoptera 12/6 c. 20 Huacarpay Lakes, 30/6 4 Pantanos de Villa.

Andean Duck Oxyura ferruginea 12/6 21 Huacarpay Lakes, 23/6 c. 5 Lake Junín, 30/6 1 male Pantanos de Villa.

Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura Fairly common to common at lower elevations.

Greater Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes melambrotos Common in Tambopata.

Black Vulture Coragyps atratus Common at many sites, primarily at lower elevations.

King Vulture Sarcoramphus papa 13/6 1 ad. Puerto Maldonado, 14/6 2 ad. Posada Amazonas-TRC, 17/6 4 ad. Tavara-TRC.

Andean Condor Vultur gryphus 10/6 3 ad. Abra Málaga. A very possible Condor was seen at a great distance near the Papallacta Pass 4/8.

Osprey Pandion haliaetus 14 and 18/6 1 near TRC, 17/6 1 TRC-Tavara.

Hook-billed Kite Chondrohierax unicinatus 26-27/7 2 ad. light morph Bella Vista, 28/7 1 ad. dark morph Mindo.

Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus 14/6 2 Posada Amazonas-TRC, 11/7 6 Bombuscaro.

Pearl Kite Gampsonyx swainsonii 2-3/7 1 ad. Chamaya, 3/7 1 ad. S. Bagua Grande.

Cinereous Harrier Circus cinereus 12/6 1 male, 1 female Huacarpay Lakes, 23/6 3 Lake Junín.

Barred Hawk Leucopternis princeps 27/7 1 ad. Bella Vista.

Great Black-Hawk Buteogallus urubitinga 15/6 1 juv. TRC, 17/6 3 ad., 1 juv. TRC-Tavara.

Harris' Hawk Parabuteo unicinctus 30/6 1 Pantanos de Villa, 2/7 2 Chamaya.

Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle Geranoaetus melanoleucus 10/6 1 ad. Abra Málaga, 1 juv. Peñas, 15/7 1 ad. Terminal Terrestre, Loja.

Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris 9/6 1 Machu Picchu, 13/6 3 Puerto Maldonado-Posada Amazonas, 14/6 3 Posada Amazonas-TRC, 15/6 1 TRC, 17/6 3 TRC-Tavara, 19/6 1 Posada Amazonas, 9/7 1 Utuana, 29/7 3 Mindo.

White-rumped Hawk Buteo leucorrhous 10/6 1ad. Abra Málaga, 5/7 2 ad. Río Chido.

Short-tailed Hawk Buteo brachyurus 28/7 1 ad. dark morph Mindo. Probably the first record for Mindo.

Red-backed Hawk Buteo polyosoma 8/6 1 ad. Cuzco-Ollantaytambo, 2/7 4 Chamaya, 8/7 1, 10/7 2 ad., 1 of dark morph Sozoranga, 24/7 1 ad. Tulcán.

Puna Hawk Buteo poecilochrous 22/6 5 La Oroya-Junín, 24/6 2 Junín-La Oroya, 25/6 1 ad. Milloc, 4/8 5 near Papallacta Pass. Recently lumped with Red-backed Hawk by one author.

Black-and-chestnut Eagle Oroaetus isidori* 2/8 1 juv. San Rafael Falls, 3/8 1 ad. Guacamayos.

Black Caracara Daptrius ater 14/6 2 Posada Amazonas-TRC, 15/6 c. 5 TRC, 17/6 c. 10 TRC-Tavara, 18/6 10-15 TRC-Posada Amazonas, 19/6 1 Posada Amazonas.

Red-throated Caracara Daptrius americanus 13-14/6 5 Posada Amazonas.

Crested Caracara Caracara plancus 7/7 1 Chiclayo-Piura.

Carunculated Caracara Phalcoboenus carunculatus 4/8 6 west of Papallacta Pass.

Mountain Caracara Phalcoboenus megalopterus 10/6 6 ad., 11/6 4 ad. Abra Málaga, 12/6 7 Urubamba-Cuzco, 23/6 1 ad. Lake Junín, 25/6 2 ad. Milloc.

Collared Forest-Falcon Micrastur semitorquatus 13-14/6 1 heard Posada Amazonas.

Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans 13-14/6 1 heard Posada Amazonas.

American Kestrel Falco sparverius Many birds seen, mostly in Peru but also some in Ecuador and 1 bird in Colombia between Ricaurte-Ipiales 24/7.

Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis 13/6 4 Puerto Maldonado-Posada Amazonas, 14/6 2 Posada Amazonas-TRC, 18/6 3 TRC-Posada Amazonas.

Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus 9/6 1 ad. female Machu Picchu, 20/6 1 San Isidro, Lima.

Speckled Chachalaca Ortalis guttata 14/6 3 Posada Amazonas, 14/6 2, 15/6 c. 10, 18/6 4 TRC, 17/6 2 TRC-Tavara.

Rufous-headed Chachalaca Ortalis erythroptera** 9/7 1 Sozoranga.

Andean Guan Penelope montagnii 9/6 2 Águas Calientes-Ollantaytambo, 4/8 2-3 Guacamayos.

Spix's Guan Penelope jacquacu 14/6 2 Posada Amazonas, 16/6 4 TRC.

Blue-throated Piping-Guan Pipile cumanensis 13/6 2 heard, 14/6 a few heard Posada Amazonas, 14/6 2, 15/6 c. 5, 18/6 2 TRC, 17/6 3 TRC-Tavara.

Sickle-winged Guan Chamaepetes goudotii 31/7 2 San Rafael Falls.

Razor-billed Curassow Mitu tuberosa 14/6 2, 16/6 2 TRC, 17/6 6 TRC-Tavara.

Dark-backed Wood-Quail Odontophorus melanonotus** 21/7 2 heard, 22/7 4 heard, 24/7 2+4 heard Río Ñambí, 28/7 2 Mindo.

Rufous-breasted Wood-Quail Odontophorus speciosus 13/7 1 Bombuscaro.

Hoatzin Opisthocoma hoazin 15/6 4 TRC.

Pale-winged Trumpeter Psophia leucoptera 14/6 2 Posada Amazonas, 16/6 9+2 heard TRC. Excellent observation at TRC.

Sunbittern Eurypyga helias 17/6 2 Tavara, 12/7 1 Bombuscaro.

Plumbeous Rail Pardirallus sanguinolentus 12/6 2 Huacarpay Lakes, 30/6 2 Pantanos de Villa.

Common Gallinule Gallinula chloropus 12/6 c. 300 Huacarpay Lakes, 23/6 c. 100 Lake Junín, 26/6 a few Paracas, 30/6 4 Pantanos de Villa.

Andean Coot Fulica ardesiaca 12/6 c.100 Huacarpay Lakes, 23/6 c. 200 Lake Junín, 30/6 12 Pantanos de Villa. At Pantanos de Villa there were birds with both yellow and red front shields. In the Andes they were white.

Giant Coot Fulica gigantea 25/6 6 Milloc.

Blackish Oystercatcher Haematopus ater 27/6 3 Paracas.

American Oystercatcher Haematopus palliatus 27/6 c. 25 Paracas.

Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus 30/6 c. 40 Pantanos de Villa, 7/7 5 Mocupe, S. Chiclayo.

Andean Avocet Recurvirostra andina 23/6 1 Lake Junín. Beautiful bird!

Peruvian Thick-knee Burhinus superciliaris 30/6 2 Lurin.

Pied Lapwing Vanellus cayanus 13/6 1 Puerto Maldonado-Posada Amazonas, 14/6 1 Posada Amazonas-TRC.

Andean Lapwing Vanellus resplendens 7/6 3 Sacsayhuaman, 8/6 34 Cuzco-Ollantaytambo, 10/6 c. 20 Abra Málaga, 12/6 c. 15 Urubamba-Cuzco, c. 30 Huacarpay Lakes, 22/6 4 Junín, 23/6 c. 50 Lake Junín, 25/6 12 Milloc.

Black-bellied Plover Pluvialis squatarola 27/6 c. 25 Paracas.

Semipalmated Plover Charadrius semipalmatus 27/6 c. 5 Paracas.

Killdeer Charadrius vociferus 26/6 3 Paracas, 30/6 c. 30 Lurin, c. 30 Pantanos de Villa.

Snowy Plover Charadrius alexandrinus occidentalis 27/6 c. 20 Paracas.

Collared Plover Charadrius collaris 14/6 1 female Posada Amazonas-TRC, 17/6 1 TRC-Tavara.

Puna Plover Charadrius alticola 23/6 c. 10 Lake Junín.

Diademed Sandpiper-Plover Phegornis mitchellii* 25/6 3 ad. Milloc. Yes!

Puna Snipe Gallinago andina 11/6 2 Abra Málaga, 23/6 c. 15 Lake Junín, 25/6 6 Milloc, 5/7 2 Pomacochas.

Hudsonian Curlew Numenius (phaeopus) hudsonicus 27/6 5 Paracas.

Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca 12/6 3 Huacarpay Lakes, 23/6 2 Lake Junín, 27/6 4 Paracas.

Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres 26/6 5, 27/6 c. 20 Paracas.

Western Sandpiper Calidris mauri 27/6 5 Paracas.

Pectoral Sandpiper Calidris melanotos 30/6 1 Pantanos de Villa.

Gray-bellied Seedsnipe Thinocorus orbygnianus 25/6 2 males, 1 female Milloc.

Belcher's Gull Larus belcheri Common at Paracas 26-28/6.

Gray Gull Larus modestus 26/6 c. 300 Lima-Pisco, 27/6 c. 300 Paracas, also seen 28/6.

Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus Common at Paracas 26-28/6.

Gray-hooded Gull Larus cirrocephalus 26/6 1 ad., 27/6 c. 30 Paracas.

Andean Gull Larus serranus 7/6 1 ad. Cuzco, 8/6 4 Cuzco-Ollantaytambo, 11/6 1 Ollantaytambo, 12/6 c. 20 Urubamba-Cuzco, c. 50 Cuzco-Huacarpay, c. 50 Huacarpay Lakes, 22/6 c. 5 Junín, 23/6 c. 50 Lake Junín, 25/6 6 Milloc. Only a few birds were in breeding plumage.

Elegant Tern Thalasseus elegans** 27/6 c. 40 Paracas.

Royal Tern Thalasseus maximus 27/6 2 Paracas.

Yellow-billed Tern Sterna superciliaris 13/6 2 Puerto Maldonado-Posada Amazonas, 14/6 4 Posada Amazonas-TRC, 18/6 5 TRC-Posada Amazonas.

Peruvian Tern Sterna lorata** 27/6 21 Paracas. The population is declining and now probably under 5000 birds.

Large-billed Tern Phaetusa simplex 13/6 2 Puerto Maldonado-Posada Amazonas.

Inca Tern Larosterna inca 27/6 c. 20 Paracas, 28/6 100's Islas Ballestas. An absolutely stunning bird!

Black Skimmer Rynchops nigra 13/6 4 Puerto Maldonado-Posada Amazonas, 27-28/6 c. 55 Paracas.

Rock Dove Columba livia domest. Common in cities, as usual.

Spot-winged Pigeon Columba maculosa 7/6 c. 70 Sacsayhuaman, 8/6 c. 20 Cuzco-Ollantaytambo.

Band-tailed Pigeon Columba fasciata 10/6 c. 100 Abra Málaga, 26/7 5, 27/7 c. 10 Bella Vista, 28/7 c. 10 Mindo.

Pale-vented Pigeon Columba cayennensis 19/6 2 heard Posada Amazonas.

Plumbeous Pigeon Columba plumbea 14-19/6 fairly common Tambopata, 21/7 1 heard, 24/7 1 heard Río Ñambí, 31/7-2/8 2 heard, 1/8 3 San Rafael Falls.

Ruddy Pigeon Columba subvinacea 13-19/6 fairly common Tambopata, 27/7 2 heard, 28/7 a few Mindo.

Peruvian Pigeon Columba oenops** 2/7 1-2, 3/7 3-4 Chamaya.

Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata Locally common in open areas and towns.

West Peruvian Dove Zenaida meloda Superabundant in Lima, fairly common at Pisco and Lurin, 7/7 c. 30 Rafan.

Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti 13/6 1 male Puerto Maldonado.

Croaking Ground-Dove Columbina cruziana Common in western Peru, the Marañón valley and at Sozoranga.

Blue Ground-Dove Clavaris pretiosa 6/7 1 pair Pedro Ruiz-Bagua Grande.

Bare-faced Ground-Dove Metriopelia ceciliae 7/6 4 Sacsayhuaman, 8/6 2 Cuzco-Ollantaytambo, 12/6 4 Huacarpay Lakes, 24/6 3 San Mateo.

Black-winged Ground-Dove Metriopelia melanoptera 12/6 9 Huacarpay Lakes, 23/6 2 Lake Junín.

White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi 8/6 6 Águas Calientes, 2/7 6 Chamaya, 5/7 3 Pomacochas, 8/7 c. 5+2 heard, 9/7 c. 10 Sozoranga.

Gray-fronted Dove Leptotila rufaxilla 15/6 1 TRC, 13/7 1 Bombuscaro.

White-throated Quail-Dove Geotrygon frenata 10/6 1 heard Abra Málaga.

Ruddy Quail-Dove Geotrygon montana 12/7 1 female, 13/7 1 male Bombuscaro.

Blue-and-yellow Macaw Ara ararauna 14/6 7 Posada Amazonas, 11 Posada Amazonas-TRC, 14-18/6 max. c. 30 TRC.

Military Macaw Ara militaris** 12/7 15 Bombuscaro. This is one of very few sightings from Bombuscaro.

Scarlet Macaw Ara macao 14/6 2 Posada Amazonas-TRC, 14-18/6 max. c. 20 TRC.

Red-and-green Macaw Ara chloroptera 14/6 6 Posada Amazonas, a few Posada Amazonas, 14-18/6 max. c. 15 TRC.

Chestnut-fronted Macaw Ara severa 13/6 2 Puerto Maldonado-Posada Amazonas, 14/6 a few Posada Amazonas, 14-18/6 max. c. 20 TRC.

Red-bellied Macaw Orthopsittaca manilata 14/6 4 Posada Amazonas, 14-18/6 max. c. 100 TRC, 17/6 c. 100 TRC-Tavara.

Blue-headed Macaw Propyrrhura couloni 13/6 3 Posada Amazonas.

Scarlet-fronted Parakeet Aratinga wagleri 30/6 5 Lurin.

Mitred Parakeet Aratinga mitrata 8/6 4+heard Águas Calientes, 10/6 4 Abra Málaga.

Red-masked Parakeet Aratinga erythrogenys* 8/7 29 Sozoranga.

White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalmus 13/6 c. 30, 19/6 2 Posada Amazonas, 13/7 c. 15 Bombuscaro, 2/8 6 San Rafael Falls.

Dusky-headed Parakeet Aratinga weddellii 14/6 c. 50 TRC.

Golden-plumed Parakeet Leptosittaca branickii** 5/7 19 overhead Río Chido.

Maroon-tailed Parakeet Pyrrhura melanura 21-24/7 heard daily, 23/7 4 seen Río Ñambí, 27/7 7, 28/7 1+a few heard Mindo.

Black-capped Parakeet Pyrrhura rupicola 19/6 2+several heard Posada Amazonas.

White-breasted Parakeet Pyrrhura albipectus** 12/7 c. 10, 13/7 9 Bombuscaro.

Barred Parakeet Bolborhynchus lineola 27/7 3 overhead Mindo.

Blue-winged Parrotlet Forpus crassirostris 15/6 5 TRC.

Pacific Parrotlet Forpus coelestis 2/7 3, 3/7 3 Chamaya, 3/7 1 S. Bagua Grande, 7/7 2 Rafan, 9/7 6 Sozoranga. Is the Pacific Parrotlet a recent immigrant to the Marañón valley, and in that case, will it compete with and weaken the population of the threatened Yellow-faced Parrotlet?

Cobalt-winged Parakeet Brotogeris cyanoptera 13/6 2 Puerto Maldonado, c. 10 Posada Amazonas, 15/6 c. 80 TRC.

White-bellied Parrot Pionites leucogaster 13/6 3, 19/6 3 Posada Amazonas, 15/6 3 TRC.

Orange-cheeked Parrot Pionopsitta barrabandi 14/6 1 Posada Amazonas, 15/6 1, 16/6 1 heard TRC.

Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus Common in Tambopata. The highest number was c. 400 at the ccolpa 15/6.

Red-billed Parrot Pionus sordidulus 26/7 15, 27/7 5 Bella Vista, 1/8 3 San Rafael Falls.

Speckle-faced Parrot Pionus tumultuosus 4/7 4 Río Chido, 14/7 7 Río San Francisco, 3/8 4 Guacamayos.

Bronze-winged Parrot Pionus chalcopterus 24/7 1 Río Ñambí, 28/7 5, 29/7 2 Mindo.

Yellow-crowned Amazon Amazona ochrocephala 14/6 2 Posada Amazonas, 15/6 c. 20 TRC.

Scaly-naped Amazon Amazona mercenaria 9/6 11 Machu Picchu, 12/7 c. 15, 13/7 at least 3 Bombuscaro, 3/8 8 Guacamayos.

Mealy Amazon Amazona farinosa 13/6 2, 14/6 6 Posada Amazonas, 15/6 c. 40 TRC.

Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana 12/7 2, 13/7 2 Bombuscaro, 21/7 1, 23/7 1 Río Ñambí, 27/7 4, 28/7 5, 29/7 1 Mindo, 3/8 1 Guacamayos.

Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia 2/7 8 heard, 3/7 1 male+6 heard Chamaya, 8/7 1 heard Sozoranga.

Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani 15/6 3 TRC, 19/6 4 Posada Amazonas, 27-29/7 fairly common Mindo.

Groove-billed Ani Crotophaga sulcirostris Common in western Peru, the Marañón valley and at Sozoranga.

Colombian Screech-Owl Otus colombianus** 26/7 1 heard Bella Vista.

West Peruvian Screech-Owl Otus roboratus 9/7 2 heard Sozoranga.

Crested Owl Lophostrix cristata 19/6 1 heard Posada Amazonas.

Spectacled Owl Pulsatrix perspicillata 15/6 1 heard, 17/6 2 heard TRC, 19/6 1 Posada Amazonas.

Great Horned Owl Bubo virginianus 15/6 2 seen, the same birds heard 16-17/6, TRC.

Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium brasilianum 13-14/6 1 heard Posada Amazonas, 15 and 17/6 1 heard TRC.

Pacific Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium peruanum 9/7 1 Sozoranga.

Amazonian Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium hardyi 13/6 1 heard, 14/6 2 heard Posada Amazonas.

Burrowing Owl Athene cunucularia 12/6 1 Ollantaytambo-Cuzco, 22/6 1 Junín, 30/6 1 Pantanos de Villa, 7/7 1 Rafan.

Common Potoo Nyctibius griseus 22/7 1 heard Río Ñambí, 27/7 1 heard Bella Vista.

Rufous-bellied Nighthawk Lurocalis rufiventris 27/7 1 heard Bella Vista.

Lesser Nighthawk Chordeiles acutipennis 17/6 2 Tavara.

Sand-colored Nighthawk Chordeiles rupestris 14/6 3 Posada Amazonas-TRC, 17/6 1 TRC-Tavara, 18/6 2 TRC-Posada Amazonas.

Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis 15/6 1 heard TRC.

Scrub Nightjar Caprimulgus anthony 7/7 2 Rafan.

Ocellated Poorwill Nyctiphrynus ocellatus 13/6 1 heard Posada Amazonas.

Chocó Poorwill Nyctiphrynus rosenbergi* 23/7 2 Río Ñambí. The birds were seen in flight at dusk, at close range.

Lyre-tailed Nightjar Uropsalis lyra 27/7 2 heard Bella Vista.

White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris 10/6 2 Abra Málaga, 13-18/6 common in Tambopata; i.e. 13/6 c. 200 Puerto Maldonado-Posada Amazonas and 17/6 c. 500 TRC- Tavara, 25/7 c. 10 Tulcán-Ibarra, 26/7 c. 40, 27/7 c. 25 Bella Vista, 3/8 c:a 65, 4/8 1 Guacamayos.

Chestnut-collared Swift Cypseloides rutilus 12/7 5, 13/7 9 Bombuscaro, 26/7 3, 27/7 2 Bella Vista, 28/7 c. 10, 29/7 c. 70 Mindo, 31/7 c. 10 ex. San Rafael Falls, 3/8 c. 600 (!), 4/8 c. 50 Guacamayos.

Short-tailed Swift Chaetura brachyura 13/6 1 Puerto Maldonado-Posada Amazonas, 14/6 2, 16/6 3 TRC.

Band-rumped Swift Chaetura spinicauda 21/7 c.10, 24/7 1 Río Ñambí.

Gray-rumped Swift Chaetura cinereiventris 11/7 3 Bombuscaro, 28/7 c. 20 Mindo.

White-tipped Swift Aeronautes montivagus 27/6 3 Bella Vista.

Andean Swift Aeronautes andecolus 7/6 1 Cuzco, 24/6 1 San Mateo.

Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift Panyptila cayennensis 3/7 5 Bagua Grande-Pedro Ruiz.

Fork-tailed Palm-Swift Reinarda squamata 13/6 c. 20 Puerto Maldonado-Posada Amazonas, 14/6 2, 16/6 1 TRC.

Pale-tailed Barbthroat Threnetes niger 16 and 18/6 1 TRC.

White-whiskered Hermit Phaethornis yaruqui 28/7 1 Mindo.

Green Hermit Phaethornis guy 11-13/7 2 at lek Bombuscaro, 2/8 1 San Rafael Falls.

Tawny-bellied Hermit Phaethornis syrmatophorus 21-24/7 4 at lek, 23/7 1 more, Río Ñambí, 26/7 1 Bella Vista, 29/7 1 Mindo, 4/8 1 Guacamayos.

Great-billed Hermit Phaethornis malaris 16/6 1 TRC, 13/7 1 Bombuscaro. For the taxanomy on Hermits, read HBW.

White-bearded Hermit Phaethornis hispidus 15/6 2, 16/6 at least 2, 18/6 1 TRC.

Reddish Hermit Phaethornis ruber 16/6 1, 18/6 1 female TRC, 19/6 2 Posada Amazonas.

White-tipped Sicklebill Eutoxeres aquila 1-2/8 1 San Rafael Falls.

Green-fronted Lancebill Doryfera ludovicae 28/7 1 Mindo.

Brown Violetear Colibri delphinae 27/7 1, 29/7 1 Mindo.

Green Violetear Colibri thalassinus 4/7 1, 5/7 1 Río Chido, 26/7 2 Bella Vista.

Sparkling Violetear Colibri coruscans Common at many sites in the temperate zone, less so in the subtropical zone.

Wire-crested Thorntail Popelairia popelairii 1/8 1 male San Rafael Falls.

Fork-tailed Woodnymph Thalurania furcata 16/6 1 male TRC, 19/6 1 female Posada Amazonas, 12/7 2 male, 1 female Bombuscaro.

Green-crowned Woodnymph Thalurania fannyi 28/7 2 male, 1 female Mindo.

Golden-tailed Sapphire Chrysuronia oenone 11/7 1 female Bombuscaro.

Andean Emerald Agyrtria franciae 27/7 1 male, 28/7 2 Mindo.

Rufous-tailed Hummingbird Amazilia tzacatl 27/7 2, 28/7 5, 29/7 2 Mindo.

Amazilia Hummingbird Amazilia amazilia 26/6 3, 28/6 c. 5 Paracas, 29/6 1 San Isidro, Lima, 30/6 c. 10 Lurin, 7/7 2 Rafan.

Loja Hummingbird Amazilia alticola 9/7 1 Sozoranga. Recent split (HBW).

White-bellied Hummingbird Leucippus chionogaster 6/7 1 male Pomacochas.

Green-and-white Hummingbird Leucippus viridicauda 8/6 c. 10 ex. Águas Calientes, 9/6 c. 20 Machu Picchu, 11/6 2 Peñas.

Spot-throated Hummingbird Leucippus taczanowskii 2/7 c. 10, 3/7 c. 15 Chamaya.

Speckled Hummingbird Adelomyia melanogenys 8/6 1 Águas Calientes, 10/7 1 Sozoranga, 26/7 c. 8, 27/7 2 heard Bella Vista, 1/8 2 San Rafael Falls, 3/8 5, 4/8 3 Guacamayos.

Purple-bibbed Whitetip Urosticte benjamini 28/7 1 male, 29/7 1 female Mindo.

Rufous-vented Whitetip Urosticte ruficrissa 1/8 1 male San Rafael Falls.

Ecuadorian Piedtail Phlogophilus hemileucurus* 13/7 1 Bombuscaro.

Violet-fronted Brilliant Heliodoxa leadbeateri 12/7 1 male Bombuscaro.

Fawn-breasted Brilliant Heliodoxa rubinoides 26/7 1 male, 1 female, 27/7 1 female Bella Vista, 3/8 1 male Guacamayos.

Empress Brilliant Heliodoxa imperatrix 21/7 1 Río Ñambí, 28/7 1 female Mindo.

Ecuadorian Hillstar Oreotrochilus chimborazo 18/7 1 female Pichincha.

Black-breasted Hillstar Oreotrochilus melanogaster 23/6 1 male Ondores, Junín.

White-tailed Hillstar Urochroa bougeri 31/7 2, 1/8 1, 2/8 2 San Rafael Falls.

Giant Hummingbird Patagona gigas 12/6 6 Huacarpay Lakes, 24/6 3 San Mateo, 5/8 1 La Carolina.

Shining Sunbeam Aglaeactis cupripennis 18/7 2 Pichincha.

Mountain Velvetbreast Lafresnaya lafresnayi 4/7 3 Río Chido, 9/7 1 juv. male Utuana.

Bronzy Inca Coeligena coeligena 2/8 1 San Rafael Falls, 3/8 1 Guacamayos.

Brown Inca Coeligena wilsoni 21/7 1, 22/7 2, 23/7 5, 24/7 2 Río Ñambí, 27-29/7 1 daily Mindo.

Collared Inca Coeligena torquata 4/7 2, 5/7 1 male Río Chido, 26/7 2 males, 1 female Bella Vista, 3/8 12, 4/8 c. 5 Guacamayos.

Rainbow Starfrontlet Coeligena iris 9/7 3 Utuana, 10/7 3 Sozoranga.

Violet-throated Starfrontlet Coeligena violifer 10/6 2 Abra Málaga.

Sword-billed Hummingbird Ensifera ensifera 10/6 1 female Abra Málaga.

Buff-tailed Coronet Boissonneaua flavescens 26-27/7 common Bella Vista.

Chestnut-breasted Coronet Boissonneaua matthewsii 8/6 c. 5 Águas Calientes.

Velvet-purple Coronet Boissonneaua jardini 21/7 1 male Río Ñambí.

Amethyst-throated Sunangel Heliangelus amethysticollis 10/6 2 males Abra Málaga.

Gorgeted Sunangel Heliangelus strophianus 26/7 at least 5 males, 27/7 3 males Bella Vista.

Purple-throated Sunangel Heliangelus viola 9/7 1 male Utuana.

Coppery-naped Puffleg Eriocnemis sapphiropygia 10/6 1 female Abra Málaga. Recent split from Sapphire-vented Puffleg (HBW).

Emerald-bellied Puffleg Eriocnemis alinae 3/8 2 Guacamayos.

Greenish Puffleg Haplophaedia aureliae 2/8 1 San Rafael Falls, 3/8 1 Guacamayos.

Marvelous Spatuletail Loddigesia mirabilis** 3/7 1 female Pomacochas. Next time I WILL see an ad. male...

White-booted Racket-tail Ocreatus underwoodii 27/7 1 female, 28/7 4 males, c. 5 females, 29/7 2 males, 2 females Mindo.

Buff-booted Racket-tail Ocreatus (underwoodii) addae 8/6 2 females Águas Calientes, 12/7 1 male, 1 female Bombuscaro, 31/7 1 female, 1/8 1 male San Rafael Falls.

Black-tailed Trainbearer Lesbia victoriae 5/8 2 males La Carolina.

Green-tailed Trainbearer Lesbia nuna 12/6 1 male Huacarpay Lakes, 4/7 2 females, 5/7 1 female Pomacochas.

Black Metaltail Metallura phoebe 24/6 2 San Mateo.

Scaled Metaltail Metallura aeneocauda 10/6 2 females Abra Málaga.

Olivaceous Thornbill Chalcostigma olivaceum 25/6 1 male+2 Milloc.

Blue-mantled Thornbill Chalcostigma stanleyi 11/6 1 Abra Málaga.

Bronze-tailed Comet Polyonymus caroli 24/6 1-2 San Mateo.

Long-tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus kingi 31/7 1 male, 1/8 2 males, 1 female San Rafael Falls, 3/8 5 males, 1 female, 4/8 2 males Guacamayos.

Violet-tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus coelestis 21/7 1 male, 3 females, 22/7 2 females, 23/7 3 males, 1 female, 24/7 1 male Río Ñambí, 29/7 1 female Mindo.

Wedge-billed Hummingbird Augastes geoffroyi 31/7 1 female San Rafael Falls.

Peruvian Sheartail Thaumastura cora 28/6 1 juv. male, 1 female Paracas.

Purple-throated Woodstar Calliphlox mitchellii 26-27/7 1 ad. male Bella Vista, 28/7 1 juv. male Mindo.

Purple-collared Woodstar Myrtis fanny 9/7 1 juv. male, 1 female Sozoranga.

White-bellied Woodstar Chaetocercus mulsant 9/6 1 female Águas Calientes, 9/7 1 female Utuana.

Crested Quetzal Pharomachrus antisianus 27/7 1 male Bella Vista.

Golden-headed Quetzal Pharomachrus auriceps 4/7 1 female Río Chido, 10/7 1+1 heard Sozoranga, 22/7 1 male, 23/7 1, 24/7 1 male Río Ñambí, 26/7 1 heard, 27/7 2 heard Bella Vista, 27/7 2 heard, 28/7 2 pairs+3 heard, 29/7 3+5 heard Mindo.

Pavonine Quetzal Pharomachrus pavoninus 13/6 2 heard, 14/6 1 heard Posada Amazonas.

Black-tailed Trogon Trogon melanurus 16/6 2 heard TRC.

White-tailed Trogon Trogon viridis 13/6 2 heard, 19/6 1 male Posada Amazonas, 18/6 1 heard TRC.

Collared Trogon Trogon collaris 14/6 1 female Posada Amazonas.

Masked Trogon Trogon personatus 27/7 1 female+2 heard Bella Vista, 3/8 2 males, 3 females, 4/8 1 female+2 heard Guacamayos.

Blue-crowned Trogon Trogon curucui 16 and 18/6 2 heard TRC.

Ringed Kingfisher Megaceryle torquata 14/6 1 Posada Amazonas, 17/6 4 TRC-Tavara.

Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona 14/6 2 Posada Amazonas-TRC, 17/6 4 TRC-Tavara.

Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana 17/6 1 Tavara.

Broad-billed Motmot Electron platyrhynchum 14/6 1 heard Posada Amazonas, 22/7 1 Río Ñambí.

Rufous Motmot Baryphthengus martii 14/6 2 heard Posada Amazonas, 28/7 1 heard, 29/7 1 heard Mindo.

Blue-crowned Motmot Momotus momota 14/6 3 heard Posada Amazonas.

Highland Motmot Momotus aequatorialis 13/7 4 Bombuscaro, 31/7 2 San Rafael Falls, 4/8 1 Guacamayos.

White-throated Jacamar Brachygalba albogularis 14/6 2 TRC.

Bluish-fronted Jacamar Galbula cyanescens 14/6 1, 16/6 3 TRC.

Coppery-chested Jacamar Galbula pastazae** 31/7 1, 1/8 1 pair at nest hole (young heard), 2/8 2 San Rafael Falls.

Great Jacamar Jacamerops aurea 19/6 1 Posada Amazonas.

Barred Puffbird Nystalus radiatus 28/7 2 Mindo.

Black-streaked Puffbird Malacoptila fulvogularis 3/8 1 Guacamayos.

Rufous-capped Nunlet Nonnula ruficapilla 18/6 1 TRC.

Black-fronted Nunbird Monasa nigrifrons 13/6 1 Puerto Maldonado-Posada Amazonas, 14/6 1 Posada Amazonas-TRC, 18/6 1 TRC, 19/6 2-3 Posada Amazonas.

White-fronted Nunbird Monasa morphoeus 14/6 2 Posada Amazonas.

Swallow-wing Chelidoptera tenebrosa 13/6 3 Puerto Maldonado-Posada Amazonas, 14/6 6 Posada Amazonas-TRC, 18/6 4 TRC-Posada Amazonas.

Black-spotted Barbet Capito niger 14/6 1 female+2 heard, 19/6 1 heard Posada Amazonas.

Lemon-throated Barbet Eubucco richardsoni 18/6 1 heard Posada Amazonas.

Red-headed Barbet Eubucco bourcierii 23/7 1-2 females Río Ñambí, 28/7 1 male, 2 females Mindo, 31/7 2 females, 1/8 3 males, 2 females, 2/8 2 males, 2 females San Rafael Falls.

Scarlet-hooded Barbet Eubucco tucinkae* 16/6 1 male, 18/6 1 male TRC.

Toucan Barbet Semnornis ramphastinus* 22/7 2 heard, 23-24/7 4 heard Río Ñambí, 26/7 6 heard Bella Vista, 27/7 6 heard, 28/7 3+6 heard, 29/7 4 heard Mindo.

Emerald Toucanet Aulacorhynchus prasinus 9/6 2 Águas Calientes, 4/7 3 Río Chido, 3/8 1, 4/8 3 Guacamayos.

Crimson-rumped Toucanet Aulacorhynchus haematopygus 28/7 5, 29/7 1 at nest hole Mindo.

Pale-mandibled Aracari Pteroglossus erythropygius 28/7 5, 29/7 2 Mindo.

Chestnut-eared Aracari Pteroglossus castanotis 14/6 1, 18/6 1 TRC.

Brown-mandibled Aracari Pteroglossus mariae 19/6 3 Posada Amazonas.

Curl-crested Aracari Pteroglossus beauharnaesii 13/6 c. 20, 14/6 3 Posada Amazonas.

Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan Andigena laminirostris* 26/7 2+3 heard, 27/7 1+2 heard Bella Vista.

Black-billed Mountain-Toucan Andigena nigrirostris* 3/8 2, 4/8 1 heard Guacamayos.

Yellow-ridged Toucan Ramphastos culminatus 18/6 1 heard Posada Amazonas.

Chocó Toucan Ramphastos brevis 28/7 2, 29/7 1 Mindo.

White-throated Toucan Ramphastos tucanus 13/6 1 Puerto Maldonado-Posada Amazonas, 13/6 1+6 heard, 14/6 2+c. 5 heard Posada Amazonas, 15/6 1+a few heard, 16/6 6 heard TRC, 17/6 1+1 heard TRC-Tavara, 18-19/6 heard TRC/Posada Amazonas.

Lafresnaye's Piculet Picumnus lafresnayi 12/7 1, 13/7 2 Bombuscaro.

Ecuadorian Piculet Picumnus sclateri 8/7 1 Sozoranga.

Andean Flicker Colaptes rupicola 11/6 4 Abra Málaga, 12/6 1 Huacarpay Lakes, 23/6 3 Lake Junín, 25/6 5 Milloc.

Crimson-mantled Woodpecker Piculus rivolii 26/7 1, 27/7 1 Bella Vista, 3/8 1 Guacamayos.

Golden-olive Woodpecker Piculus rubiginosus 8/6 2 Águas Calientes, 9/7 1, 10/7 2 Sozoranga, 12/7 2, 13/7 1 Bombuscaro, 23/7 1 Río Ñambí, 28/7 1, 29/7 1 Mindo, 1/8 2, 2/8 1 San Rafael Falls.

Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus 16/6 1 TRC, 13/7 1 male Bombuscaro.

Yellow-tufted Woodpecker Melanerpes cruentatus 18/6 1 TRC-Posada Amazonas.

Smoky-brown Woodpecker Veniliornis fumigatus 4/7 1 Río Chido, 10/7 1 male Sozoranga, 22/7 1 male, 23/7 2 Río Ñambí, 28/7 2, 29/7 2 Mindo.

Little Woodpecker Veniliornis passerinus 14/6 1 female TRC.

Red-stained Woodpecker Veniliornis affinis 19/6 1 male Posada Amazonas.

Scarlet-backed Woodpecker Veniliornis callonotus 7/7 2 males Rafan, 9/7 1 male Sozoranga.

Yellow-vented Woodpecker Veniliornis dignus 21/7 1 male Río Ñambí, 3/8 1 male Guacamayos.

Crimson-crested Woodpecker Campephilus melanoleucos 14/6 1 Posada Amazonas-TRC, 1 male TRC, 17/6 1 male TRC-Tavara.

Guayaquil Woodpecker Campephilus guayaquilensis 28/7 1 pair+1 Mindo.

Red-necked Woodpecker Campephilus rubricollis 14/6 1 male Posada Amazonas, 16/6 1 TRC.

Coastal Miner Geositta peruviana 27/6 3 Paracas, 7/7 6 Rafan.

Common Miner Geositta cunicularia 23/6 c. 10 Lake Junín.

Dark-winged Miner Geositta saxicolina 23/6 4 Lake Junín, 25/6 c. 20 Milloc.

Slender-billed Miner Geositta tenuirostris 25/6 2 Milloc.

Plain-breasted Earthcreeper Upucerthia jelskii 22/6 1 Junín, 23/6 2 Lake Junín, 25/6 2 Milloc.

Peruvian Seaside-Cinclodes Cinclodes taczanowskii 27/6 2 Paracas.

Bar-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes fuscus Common at high altitudes in Peru. Also 3 birds on Pichincha 18/7.

White-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes atacamensis 25/6 1 Milloc.

White-bellied Cinclodes Cinclodes palliatus** 25/6 1 Milloc.

Pale-legged Hornero Furnarius leucopus 18/6 1 TRC.

Pacific Hornero Furnarius cinnamomeus Common at Chamaya, Rafan and Sozoranga. A few also in Loja.

Rusty-crowned Tit-Spinetail Leptasthenura pileata 24/6 3 San Mateo.

White-browed Tit-Spinetail Leptasthenura xenothorax** 11/6 2-4 Abra Málaga. A critically endangered species.

Tawny Tit-Spinetail Leptasthenura yanacensis* 11/6 1 Abra Málaga.

Wren-like Rushbird Phleocryptes melanops 12/6 2 Huacarpay Lakes, 23/6 3 Lake Junín.

Rufous Spinetail Synallaxis unirufa 27/7 2 Bella Vista, 3/8 2, 4/8 1 Guacamayos.

Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae Common at many sites in the subtropical/lower temperate zone in both Peru and Ecuador.

Slaty Spinetail Synallaxis brachyura 28/7 3, 29/7 1 Mindo.

Plain-crowned Spinetail Synallaxis gujanensis 15/6 1 heard, 18/6 1 heard TRC.

Creamy-crested Spinetail Cranioleuca albicapilla 11/6 2 Peñas.

Marcapata Spinetail Cranioleuca marcapatae 10/6 6 Abra Málaga.

Line-cheeked Spinetail Crainoleuca antisiensis 9/7 2 Utuana, 10/7 5 Sozoranga.

Ash-browed Spinetail Cranioleuca curtata 12/7 1 Bombuscaro, 2/8 1 San Rafael Falls.

Red-faced Spinetail Cranioleuca erythrops 27/7 2, 28/7 1 Mindo.

Rufous-fronted Canastero Asthenes ottonis 12/6 2 Huacarpay Lakes.

Cordilleran Canastero Asthenes modesta 11/6 3 Abra Málaga.

Streak-throated Canastero Asthenes humilis 25/6 3 Milloc.

Many-striped Canstero Asthenes flammulata 18/7 1 Pichincha.

Line-fronted Canastero Asthenes urubambensis 11/6 1 Abra Málaga. Seen by Mathias only.

Marañón Thornbird Phacellodomus (rufifrons) peruvianus 2/7 7, 3/7 6 heard Chamaya, 2/7 4+4 heard Jaen.

Spectacled Prickletail Siptornis striaticollis 12/7 1 Bombuscaro. Possibly never seen at Bombuscaro before.

Spotted Barbtail Premnoplex brunnescens 23/7 1 Río Ñambí, 3/8 1, 4/8 1 Guacamayos.

Pearled Treerunner Margarornis squamiger 10/6 at least 5 Abra Málaga, 4/7 1, 5/7 2 Río Chido, 26/7 2 Bella Vista, 3/8 3, 4/8 2 Guacamayos.

Streaked Xenops Xenops rutilans 8/6 3 Águas Calientes, 9/6 1 Machu Picchu, 13/7 1 Bombuscaro, 23/6 1 Río Ñambí.

Plain Xenops Xenops minutus 16/6 1 TRC.

Streaked Tuftedcheek Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii 10/6 2 Abra Málaga, 4/7 2 Río Chido, 26/7 1 Bella Vista, 3/8 1 Guacamayos.

Pacific Tuftedcheek Pseudocolaptes johnsoni 21/7 2, 22/7 2 Río Ñambí.

Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner Anabecerthia variegaticeps 21/7 c. 7, 22/7 1, 23/7 2 Río Ñambí, 28/7 c.10, 29/7 c.10 Mindo.

Montane Foliage-gleaner Anabecerthia striaticollis 12/7 5, 13/7 c. 5 Bombuscaro, 31/7 1, 1/8 3 San Rafael Falls.

Black-billed Treehunter Thripadectes melanorhynchus 13/7 1 Bombuscaro.

Streak-capped Treehunter Thripadectes virgaticeps 28/7 2 Mindo, 3/8 2 Guacamayos.

Lineated Foliage-gleaner Syndactyla subalaris 29/7 1 Mindo.

Striped Woodhaunter Hyloctistes subulatus 19/6 1-2 Posada Amazonas.

Chestnut-winged Hookbill Ancistrops strigilatus 19/6 2 Posada Amazonas.

Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner Philydor rufus 12/7 1 Bombuscaro, 23/7 1 Río Ñambí, 28/7 5-10, 29/7 4 Mindo.

Chestnut-crowned Foliage-gleaner Automolus rufipileatus 14/6 1 Posada Amazonas.

Tyrannine Woodcreeper Dendrocincla tyrannina 3/8 3 Guacamayos.

Plain-brown Woodcreeper Dendrocincla fuliginosa 18/6 1 TRC.

White-chinned Woodcreeper Dendrocincla merula 16/6 1 TRC.

Wedge-billed Woodcreeper Glyphorynchus spirurus 14/6 1 Posada Amazonas, 15/6 1, 16/6 1 TRC, 13/7 1 Bombuscaro, 22/7 1-2, 24/7 1 Río Ñambí, 1/8 1 San Rafael Falls.

Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus 15/6 1, 18/6 1 TRC, 10/7 1 Sozoranga, 11/7 1, 12/7 1, 13/7 2 Bombuscaro.

Cinnamon-throated Woodcreeper Dendrexetastes rufigula 13-14/6 2 heard Posada Amazonas.

Bar-bellied Woodcreeper Hylexetastes stresemanni 19/6 1 Posada Amazonas. A rarely seen woodcreeper.

Strong-billed Woodcreeper Xiphocolaptes promeropirhynchus 19/6 2 Posada Amazonas, 3/8 2 Guacamayos.

Straight-billed Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus picus 14/6 1 Posada Amazonas.

Ocellated Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus ocellatus 15/6 1 TRC.

Buff-throated Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus guttatus 16/6 3, 18/6 1 heard TRC, 19/6 2 Posada Amazonas.

Olive-backed Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus triangularis 12/7 4, 13/7 3 Bombuscaro, 31/7 2, 1/8 3, 2/8 2 San Rafael Falls.

Spotted Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus erythropygis 21/7 1, 23/7 2, 24/7 1+2 heard Río Ñambí, 28/7 3, 29/7 1 Mindo.

Montane Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes lachrymiger 4/7 1 Río Chido, 26/7 1 Bella Vista.

Lineated Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes albolineatus 19/6 1 Posada Amazonas.

Streak-headed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes souleyetii 10/7 2 Sozoranga, 28/7 2, 29/7 1 Mindo.

Red-billed Scythebill Campylorhamphus trochilirostris 16/6 1 TRC.

Brown-billed Scythebill Campylorhamphus pusillus 4/8 1 Guacamayos.

Bamboo Antshrike Cymbilaimus sanctaemariae 15/6 3 heard TRC.

Great Antshrike Taraba major 18/6 1 male, 1 female TRC.

Collared Antshrike Sakesphorus bernardi 9/7 1 male, 1 female Sozoranga.

Chapman's Antshrike Thamnophilus zarumae 10/7 1 female Sozoranga.

Rufous-capped Antshrike Thamnophilus ruficapillus 5/7 1 female+2 heardPomacochas.

Plain-winged Antshrike Thamnophilus schistaceus 16/6 1-2 heard, 18/6 3 heard TRC.

Variable Antshrike Thamnophilus caerulescens 8/6 1 male Águas Calientes, 9/6 1 male, 1 female Machu Picchu.

Russet Antshrike Thamnistes anabatinus 2/8 1 San Rafael Falls.

Bluish-slate Antshrike Thamnomanes schistogynus 14/6 2 Posada Amazonas, 15/6 2 males, 16/6 c. 5, 18/6 1 male TRC.

Plain Antvireo Dysithamnus mentalis 12/7 1 female Bombuscaro.

Yellow-breasted Antwren Herpsilochmus axillaris 13/7 3 Bombuscaro.

Pygmy Antwren Myrmotherula brachyura 14/6 1 male TRC.

Plain-throated Antwren Myrmotherula hauxwelli 18/6 1 female TRC.

Ornate Antwren Myrmotherula ornata 18/6 2 TRC.

White-flanked Antwren Myrmotherula axillaris 14/6 2-3 males Posada Amazonas, 15/6 2 males TRC.

Long-winged Antwren Myrmotherula longipennis 14/6 3 msles, 2 females Posada Amazonas, 15/6 1 male, 16/6 1 male, 18/6 3 TRC.

Slaty Antwren Myrmotherula schisticolor 23/7 1 male, 24/7 2 males, 2 females Río Ñambí, 29/7 1 male, 3 females Mindo.

Ihering's Antwren Myrmotherula iheringi 15/6 1 female+1 heard TRC.

Gray Antwren Myrmotherula menetriesii 14/6 1 male Posada Amazonas.

Rufous-rumped Antwren Terenura callinota 23/7 1-2, 24/7 1 pair Río Ñambí, 28/7 1 pair Mindo, 2/8 2 San Rafael Falls.

Long-tailed Antbird Drymophila caudata 26/7 1 heard Bella Vista, 3/8 3 heard Guacamayos.

Blackish Antbird Cercomacra nigrescens 15/6 1 heard, 16/6 2 heard TRC, 13/7 3 heard Bombuscaro.

Manu Antbird Cercomacra manu 15/6 1 male, 16/6 1 male TRC.

White-backed Fire-eye Pyriglena leuconota 1/8 1 pair, 2/8 1 female San Rafael Falls.

White-browed Antbird Myrmoborus leucophrys 15/6 1 male, 18/6 3 males, 1 female TRC.

Black-faced Antbird Myrmoborus myotherinus 16/6 1 pair TRC.

Scale-backed Antbird Hylophylax poecilonota 12/7 1 heard, 13/7 1 male+1 heard Bombuscaro.

Warbling Antbird Hypocnemis cantator 14/6 1 male Posada Amazonas, also heard 18-19/6, 18/6 3+1 heard TRC.

White-lined Antbird Percnostola lophotes 14/6 1 male+1 heard, 15/6 1 female+3 heard, 16/6 1 male, 1 female+c. 10 heard, 18/6 1 female+c. 10 heard TRC.

Gray-headed Antbird Myrmeciza griseiceps** 9/7 1 male Utuana. This is one of the rarest birds in Ecuador.

Chestnut-tailed Antbird Myrmeciza hemimelaena 14/6 1 male, 2 female Posada Amazonas, 18/6 1 male+3 heard TRC.

Plumbeous Antbird Myrmeciza hyperythra 18/6 1 pair Posada Amazonas.

Immaculate Antbird Myrmeciza immaculata 21/7 1 male Río Ñambí.

Goeldi's Antbird Myrmeciza goeldii 15/6 2-3 heard, 16/6 1 pair+3 heard, 18/6 4 heard TRC, 19/6 1 heard Posada Amazonas.

White-throated Antbird Gymnopithys salvini 18/6 2 males, 2 females TRC.

Black-faced Antthrush Formicarius analis 14/6 2 heard, 19/6 3-4 heard Posada Amazonas, 18/6 2 heard TRC.

Rufous-breasted Antthrush Formicarius rufipectus 12-13/7 a few heard Bombuscaro, 22/7 1+1 heard, 23-24/7 2 heard Río Ñambí, 28/7 3 heard, 29/7 1+3 heard Mindo.

Short-tailed Antthrush Chamaeza campanisona 13/7 2 heard Bombuscaro.

Moustached Antpitta Grallaria alleni** 3/8 1 heard Guacamayos.

Chestnut-naped Antpitta Grallaria nuchalis 3/8 2 heard Guacamayos.

White-bellied Antpitta Grallaria hypoleuca 3/8 1 heard Guacamayos.

Chestnut-crowned Antpitta Grallaria ruficapilla 8/7 3 heard, 9/7 2 heard, 10/7 1 heard Sozoranga, 9/7 2 heard Utuana, 26/7 1+6 heard, 27/7 c. 5 Bella Vista, 3/8 1+c. 5 heard, 4/8 c. 5 Guacamayos.

Watkins's Antpitta Grallaria watkinsi 9/7 1 male+6 heard, 10/7 1 heard Sozoranga.

Stripe-headed Antpitta Grallaria andicola 11/6 1 Abra Málaga.

Thrush-like Antpitta Myrmothera campanisoma 11-12/7 1 heard Bombuscaro.

Ochre-breasted Antpitta Grallaricula flavirostris 29/7 1-2 Mindo.

Slate-crowned Antpitta Grallaricula nana 3/8 2 heard, 4/8 1 heard Guacamayos.

Ocellated Tapaculo Acropternis orthonyx 26/7 2 heard, 27/7 1 heard Bella Vista.

Unicolored Tapaculo Scytalopus unicolor 9/7 2 Utuana, 10/7 1 Sozoranga, 3/8 1 heard, 4/8 2 heard Guacamayos.

Gray Tapaculo Scytalopus parvirostris ?? 10/6 3 heard Abra Málaga. Typical Tapaculo song at c. 2500 meters probably belonged to this species.

Nariño Tapaculo Scytalopus vicinior 27/7 1 heard Mindo.

Spillman's Tapaculo Scytalopus spillmani 26/7 c. 12 heard, 27/7 c. 5 heard Bella Vista, 3/8 2+4 heard, 4/8 5 heard Guacamayos.

Diademed Tapaculo Scytalopus schulenbergi 10/6 4 heard Abra Málaga.

Elegant Crescent-chest Melanopareia elegans 9/7 1 Sozoranga.

Highland Elaenia Elaenia obscura 9/6 10-15 Machu Picchu.

Sierran Elaenia Elaenia pallatangae 9/6 1 Machu Picchu, 10/6 c. 5 Abra Málaga, 10/6 1, 11/6 3 Peñas, 5/7 1 Pomacochas.

White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps 12/6 2 Huacarpay Lakes.

Small-billed Elaenia Elaenia parvirostris 14/6 1 Posada Amazonas.

Mouse-colored Tyrannulet Phaeomyias murina 15/6 1 TRC.

Tumbes Tyrannulet Phaeomyias (murina) tumbezana 7/7 c. 10 Rafan, 9/7 1 Sozoranga.

Gray-and-white Tyrannulet Pseudelaenia leucospodia 7/7 1 Rafan.

Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum 30/6 3+1 heard Lurin, 2/7 c. 15, 3/7 a few Chamaya, 8/7 3 Sozoranga, 27/7 1 Mindo.

Golden-faced Tyrannulet Zimmerius chrysops 8/7 3, 9/7 2, 10/7 c. 5+a few heard Sozoranga, 9/7 4 Utuana, 23/7 1 Río Ñambí, 1/8 4, 2/8 1 San Rafael Falls. The birds of Sozoranga and Utuana possibly represent a separate species, the Loja Tyrannulet.

Slender-footed Tyrannulet Zimmerius gracilipes 14/6 2 Posada Amazonas.

Sooty-headed Tyrannulet Phyllomyias griseiceps ?? 18/6 2 TRC. They definitely looked like Sooty-heads, but acording to Ridgely & Tudor they should occur only to central Peru.

Sclater's Tyrannulet Phyllomyias sclateri 8/6 3 Águas Calientes.

Ashy-headed Tyrannulet Phyllomyias cinereiceps 8/6 2 Águas Calientes, 9/6 1 Machu Picchu, 28/7 1 Mindo.

Black-capped Tyrannulet Phyllomyias nigrocapillus 26/7 1 Bella Vista.

White-tailed Tyrannulet Mecocerculus poecilocercus 8/6 4 Águas Calientes, 9/6 2 Machu Picchu, 10/6 2+2 heard Abra Málaga, 4/7 4, 5/7 1 Río Chido, 26/7 2 Bella Vista.

White-banded Tyrannulet Mecocerculus stictopterus 10/6 at least 5 Abra Málaga.

Sulphur-bellied Tyrannulet Mecocerculus minor 3/8 4 Guacamayos.

White-throated Tyrannulet Mecocerculus leucophrys 10/6 10-15 Abra Málaga.

Torrent Tyrannulet Serpophaga cinerea 8/6 2 Ollantaytambo-Águas Calientes, 8/6 5 Águas Calientes, 28/7 1 Mindo, 4/8 1 W. Baeza.

Tawny-crowned Pygmy-Tyrant Euscarthmus meloryphus 2/7 8, 3/7 6 Chamaya.

Many-colored Rush-Tyrant Tachuris rubrigastra 12/6 4 Huacarpay Lakes, 23/6 c. 10 Lake Junín.

Tufted Tit-Tyrant Anairetes parulus 10/6 1 Abra Málaga, 2 Peñas.

Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant Anairetes flavirostris 11/6 2 Peñas.

Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet Phylloscartes ventralis 8/6 at least 3 Águas Calientes, 9/6 6 Machu Picchu, 4/7 2 Río Chido.

Ecuadorian Tyrannulet Phylloscartes gualaquizae 1/8 1 San Rafael Falls.

Variegated Bristle-Tyrant Phylloscartes poecilotis 31/7 2, 1/8 1 San Rafael Falls.

Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant Phylloscartes opthalmicus 28/7 1 Mindo.

Sepia-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon amaurocephalus 14/6 1 Posada Amazonas, 1 TRC.

Slaty-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon superciliaris 12/7 4, 13/7 3, 14/7 1 Bombuscaro, 28/7 1 Mindo.

Rufous-breasted Flycatcher Leptopogon rufipectus 3/8 1, 4/8 1 Guacamayos.

Streak-necked Flycatcher Mionectes striaticollis 9/6 2 Machu Picchu, 12/7 1 Bombuscaro, 1/8 2 San Rafael Falls, 3/8 4, 4/8 1 Guacamayos.

Olive-striped Flycatcher Mionectes olivaceus 11/7 1, 12/7 3 Bombuscaro, 21/7 1, 22/7 1, 23/7 2 Río Ñambí.

Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant Lophotriccus pileatus 12/7 1 Bombuscaro, 27/7 2 heard, 28/7 c. 10 heard, 29/7 6 heard Mindo.

Flammulated Bamboo-Tyrant Hemitriccus flammulatus 18/6 1 TRC.

Bronze-olive Pygmy-Tyrant Pseudotriccus pelzelni 22/7 1 Río Ñambí, 29/7 1 Mindo.

Rufous-headed Pygmy-Tyrant Pseudotriccus ruficeps 3/8 5+1 heard, 4/8 5+4 heard Guacamayos.

Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum 2/7 3 Chamaya.

Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum chrysocrotaphum 18/6 1 TRC.

White-cheeked Tody-Tyrant Poecilotriccus albifacies* 15/6 2, 18/6 1 heard TRC.

Golden-crowned Spadebill Platyrinchus coronatus 14/6 3 Posada Amazonas.

Yellow-olive Flycatcher Tolmomyias sulphurescens 16/6 1 TRC, 11/7 1, 13/7 1 Bombuscaro.

Fulvous-breasted Flatbill Rhynchocyclus fulvipectus 12/7 1 Bombuscaro, 21/7 1, 23/7 2, 23/7 3 Río Ñambí, 3/8 1 Guacamayos.

Dusky-tailed Flatbill Ramphotrigon fuscicauda 18/6 1+1 heard TRC.

Ornate Flycatcher Myiotriccus ornatus Fairly common at Bombuscaro, Río Ñambí, Mindo and San Rafael Falls.

Tawny-breasted Flycatcher Myiobius villosus 21-22/7 1 Río Ñambí.

Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher Terenotriccus erythrurus 14/6 2 Posada Amazonas, 16/6 1 TRC, 12/7 1 Bombuscaro.

Cinnamon Flycatcher Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea 10/6 4 Abra Málaga, 4/7 3 Río Chido, 26/7 1 Bella Vista, 3/8 4, 4/8 1 Guacamayos.

Orange-crested Flycatcher Myiophobus phoenicomitra 11/7 1 Bombuscaro.

Handsome Flycatcher Myiophobus pulcher 3/8 c. 10, 4/8 a few Guacamayos.

Bran-colored Flycatcher Myiophobus fasciatus 9/7 1 Sozoranga.

Smoke-colored Pewee Contopus fumigatus 4/7 2 Río Chido, 9/7 2, 10/7 3 Sozoranga, 26/7 2 Bella Vista, 27/7 2, 28/7 1 Mindo, 3/8 1, 4/8 2 Guacamayos.

Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans 8/6 c. 5 Ollantaytambo-Águas Calientes, 8/6 c. 6, 9/6 c. 5 Águas Calientes, 12/7 1, 13/7 1 Bombuscaro, 22/7 1 Río Ñambí, 28/7 1 ex. Mindo.

Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus 14/6 1 male, 15/6 1 male, 2 females TRC, 20/6 1 melanistic male Lima. Common in western Peru, the Marañón valley and at Sozoranga. Only observation from Quito was 2 at La Carolina 5/8.

Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant Silvicultrix diadema 4/8 1 Guacamayos.

Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca cinnamomeiventris 3/8 4+2 heard, 4/8 2 heard Guacamayos.

Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca rufipectoralis 10/6 3 Abra Málaga, 10/6 1, 11/6 1 Peñas.

White-browed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca leucophrys 12/6 4 Huacarpay Lakes, 24/6 1 San Mateo.

Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca fumicolor 18/7 1 Pichincha.

D'Orbigny's Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca oenanthoides 11/6 3 Abra Málaga.

Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant Agriornis montana 23/6 4 Lake Junín.

Drab Water-Tyrant Ochthornis littoralis 14/6 3 Posada Amazonas-TRC, 15/6 2 TRC, 17/6 c. 20 TRC-Tavara, 19/6 2 Posada Amazonas.

Spot-billed Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola maculirostris 18/7 4 Pichincha, 4/8 2 W. Papallacta Pass.

Little Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola fluviatilis 15/6 3 TRC.

Plain-capped Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola alpina 11/6 3 Abra Málaga, 25/6 c. 10 Milloc.

Cinereous Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola cinerea 25/6 4 Milloc.

Rufous-naped Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola rufivertex 12/6 at least 5 Huacarpay Lakes.

Ochre-naped Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola flavinucha 25/6 6 Milloc.

White-fronted Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola albifrons 23/6 2 Lake Junín, 25/6 1 Milloc.

Dark-faced Ground-Tyrant Muscisaxicola macloviana 30/6 1 Lurin.

Long-tailed Tyrant Colonia colonus 14/6 2, 15/6 1 TRC.

White-winged Black-Tyrant Knipolegus aterrimus 9/6 1 female Machu Picchu.

Andean Negrito Lessonia oreas 12/6 11 Huacarpay Lakes, 23/6 c. 40 Lake Junín.

Rufous Flycatcher Myiarchus semirufus 7/7 1 Rafan.

Brown-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus tyrannulus 14/6 1 Posada Amazonas.

Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer 10/6 1 Sozoranga, 28/7 2 Mindo.

Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua 19/6 2 heard Posada Amazonas.

Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus 13-20/6 fairly common Tambopata.

Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis 13-20/6 fairly common Tambopata, otherwise only a few birds seen.

Gray-capped Flycatcher Myiozetetes granadensis 15/6 1 TRC, 17/6 2 Tavara.

Lemon-browed Flycatcher Conopias cinchoneti 12/7 1 Bombuscaro.

Baird's Flycatcher Myiodynastes bairdii 7/7 2 Rafan.

Golden-crowned Flycatcher Myiodynastes chrysocephalus 8/6 3 Águas Calientes, 9/6 2 Machu Picchu, 23/7 2 Río Ñambí, 26/7 2 Bella Vista, 28/7 2 Mindo, 2/8 1 San Rafael Falls, 3/8 1 Guacamayos.

Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus Common in open areas at lower elevations.

Barred Becard Pachyramphus versicolor 8/6 1 male Águas Calientes, 9/6 2 males Machu Picchu, 5/7 1 pair Río Chido, 1/8 1 male San Rafael Falls, 3/8 1 male Guacamayos.

Black-capped Becard Pachyramphus marginatus 19/6 1 female Posada Amazonas.

Black-and-white Becard Pachyramphus albogriseus 23/6 1 female Río Ñambí, 26/7 1 male Bella Vista, 28/7 1 female Mindo.

Pink-throated Becard Pachyramphus minor 19/6 1 female Posada Amazonas.

Black-crowned Tityra Tityra inquisitor 18/6 1 male Posada Amaazonas.

Masked Tityra Tityra semifasciata 12/7 1 Bombuscaro, 28/7 5 males, 1 female, 29/7 1 pair Mindo, 1/8 1 pair San Rafael Falls.

Thrush-like Mourner Schiffornis turdinus 21/7 1 heard Río Ñambí.

Lita Manakin Chloropipo (holochlora) litae 23/7 1 Río Ñambí.

Golden-winged Manakin Masius chrysopterus 23/7 3 males, 1 female, 24/7 1 female Río Ñambí, 1-2/8 1 male San Rafael Falls.

Club-winged Manakin Machaeropterus deliciosus 28/7 4 heard Mindo.

Blue-rumped Manakin Pipra isidorei 12/7 1 female Bombuscaro.

Band-tailed Manakin Pipra fasciicauda 16/6 1 male, 18/6 1 male TRC.

Peruvian Plantcutter Phytotoma raimondii** 7/7 1 pair, 2 juv.+1 male Rafan. An extremely rare bird, though two rather sizeable populations recently have been discovered.

White-browed Purpletuft Iodopleura isabellae 17/6 2 Tavara.

Red-crested Cotinga Ampelion rubrocristata 10/6 3 (1 displaying) Abra Málaga, 1 Peñas, 9/7 1 Utuana.

Green-and-black Fruiteater Pipreola riefferii 3/8 12, 4/8 4 Guacamayos.

Orange-breasted Fruiteater Pipreola jucunda 22/7 1 female, 23/7 1 pair Río Ñambí.

Plum-throated Cotinga Cotinga maynana 17/6 1 male Tavara.

Olivaceous Piha Lipaugus cryptolophus 3/8 1 Guacamayos.

Screaming Piha Lipaugus vociferans 13/6 2 heard, 14/6 3 heard, 19/6 3 heard Posada Amazonas, 17/6 1+1 heard Tavara.

Dusky Piha Lipaugus fuscocinereus 3/8 3 (also heard), 4/8 1+1 heard Guacamayos.

Purple-throated Fruitcrow Querula purpurata 14/6 2+1 heard Posada Amazonas.

Amazonian Umbrellabird Cephalopterus ornatus 1/8 1 San Rafael Falls.

Andean Cock-of-the-Rock Rupicola peruviana 8/6 2 males, 1 female Águas Calientes, 12/7 2 females, 13/7 2 females Bombuscaro, 29/7 2 males Mindo, 31/7 2 males, 1/8 2 ad. males, 1 subad. male, 5 females San Rafael Falls.

Turquoise Jay Cyanolyca turcosa 27/7 5 Bella Vista.

Beautiful Jay Cyanolyca pulchra* 23/7 1 Río Ñambí. …

Purplish Jay Cyanocorax cyanomelas 15/6 1 TRC, 17/6 1 TRC-Tavara.

Violaceous Jay Cyanocorax violaceus 14/6 2 Posada Amazonas, 14/6 5, 15/6 c. 5, 18/6 a few TRC.

White-tailed Jay Cyanocorax mystacalis 1/7 2 Chiclayo-Jaen, 9/7 4 Sozoranga.

Inca Jay Cyanocorax yncas 5/7 1 Río Chido, common at Bombuscaro 12-14/7 and San Rafael Falls 31/7-2/8.

Brown-chested Martin Progne tapera 13-20/6 fairly common Tambopata.

Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea 13/6 5 Puerto Maldonado, 7/7 c. 20 Rafan.

White-winged Swallow Tachycineta albiventer 13-20/6 fairly common Tambopata.

Brown-bellied Swallow Notiochelidon murina 10/6 a few, 11/6 c. 20 Abra Málaga, 18/7 a few Pichincha, 4/8 5 near Papallacta Pass, 5/8 c. 20 La Carolina, Quito.

Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca Common, seen at many sites.

White-banded Swallow Atticora fasciata 13-20/6 fairly common Tambopata.

Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis A few Tambopata, 27/7 3, 28/7 c. 10 Mindo, 1/8 1, 2/8 2 San Rafael Falls.

Andean Swallow Hirundo andecola 23/6 c. 35 Lake Junín.

Chestnut-collared Swallow Petrochelidon rufocollaris 30/6 at least 1 Lurin, 8-10/7 max. c. 350 Sozoranga, 10/7 1 Gonzanamá.

Black-capped Donacobius Donacobius atricapillus 19/6 1+1 heard Posada Amazonas.

Thrush-like Wren Campylorhynchus turdinus 14/6 1 heard, 16/6 1 heard TRC, 14/7 1 heard Zamora.

Fasciated Wren Campylorhynchus fasciatus 2/7 2+8 heard, 3/7 8+6 heard Chamaya, 7/7 c. 5+heard Rafan, 8-10/7 common Sozoranga.

Bay Wren Thryothorus nigricapillus 24/7 2 heard Río Ñambí.

Plain-tailed Wren Thryothorus euophrys 26/7 2+2 heard, 27/7 2 heard Bella Vista, 3-4/8 2 heard Guacamayos.

Inca Wren Thryothorus eisenmanni 9/6 4+7 heard Machu Picchu, 10/6 1+7 heard Abra Málaga.

Moustached Wren Thryothorus genibarbis 18/6 1 heard TRC.

Superciliated Wren Thryothorus superciliaris 7/7 1+2 heard Rafan.

House Wren Troglodytes aedon Seen here and there, not so many.

Mountain Wren Troglodytes solstitialis 4/7 1 heard Río Chido.

Sharpe's Wren Cinnycerthia olivascens 4/7 1 heard, 5/7 2 heard Río Chido, 21/7 1 Río Ñambí, 3/8 8 Guacamayos.

Gray-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucophrys Fairly common to common in the subtropical zone.

White-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucosticta 17/6 1 Tavara, 12/7 3 Bombuscaro.

Musician Wren Cyphorhinus aradus 19/6 1 Posada Amazonas, 13/7 1 heard Bombuscaro.

Southern Nightingale-Wren Microcerculus marginatus 14/6 1 heard, 19/6 2 heard Posada Amazonas, 14/6 1 heard, 15/6 1 heard TRC.

White-browed Gnatcatcher Polioptila (plumbea) bilineata 7/7 c. 5 Rafan.

Marañón Gnatcatcher Polioptila maior 2/7 c. 30, 3/7 10 Chamaya.

Andean Solitaire Myadestes ralloides 8/6 2 heard Águas Calientes, 4-5/7 2 heard Río Chido, 22-24/7 3 heard, 1 seen 23/7, Río Ñambí, 28/7 1 heard Mindo, 3/8 1+2 heard, 4/8 1+1 heard Guacamayos.

White-eared Solitaire Entomodestes leucotis 8/6 1 Águas Calientes, 9/6 2+3 heard Machu Picchu.

Spotted Nightingale-Thrush Catharus dryas 31/7-2/8 2 heard, one of them seen 1/8, San Rafael Falls.

Pale-eyed Thrush Platycichla leucops 28/7 1 male Mindo, 1/8 1 male San Rafael Falls.

Glossy-black Thrush Turdus serranus 9/6 2 males Machu Picchu, 10/6 1 heard Abra Málaga, 9/7 1 male+1 heard Utuana, 26-27/7 3 heard Bella Vista, 3/8 3 males+2 heard, 4/8 1 male, 1 female+ 3 heard Guacamayos.

Great Thrush Turdus fuscater Common in the tempererte zone.

Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco Common at many temperate zone sites in Peru and at Sozoranga.

Chestnut-bellied Thrush Turdus fulviventris 3/8 3 males Guacamayos.

Black-billed Thrush Turdus ignobilis 15/6 1 TRC, 31/7 1, 1-2/8 2 San Rafael Falls.

White-necked Thrush Turdus albicollis 15/6 2, 16/6 1 TRC.

Hauxwell's Thrush Turdus hauxwelli 18/6 1 TRC.

Lawrence's Thrush Turdus lawrencii 14/6 1 male Posada Amazonas, 16/6 1 heard TRC.

Plumbeous-backed Thrush Turdus reevei 9/7 1 Sozoranga.

White-capped Dipper Cinclus leucocephalus 8/6 2 ad., 1 juv., 9/6 2 Águas Calientes, 4/7 2 Río Chido, 12/7 2 Bombuscaro, 21/7 2 Río Ñambí, 1/8 1 San Rafael Falls.

Long-tailed Mockingbird Mimus longicaudatus Common in western Peru and in the Marañón valley.

Yellowish Pipit Anthus lutescens 30/6 2 Lurin, 3 Pantanos de Villa.

Short-billed Pipit Anthus furcatus 23/6 2 Lake Junín.

Correndera Pipit Anthus correndera 23/6 3 Lake Junín.

Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis 3/7 1 Chamaya, 5/7 1 Pomacochas, 8/7 1, 9/7 2 Sozoranga.

Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo Vireolanius leucotis 12/7 1 Bombuscaro.

Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus 8/6 1 Águas Calientes, 9/6 1 Machu Picchu, 16/6 1, 18/6 c.10 TRC, 17/6 4 Tavara, 2/7 3 Chamaya, 28/7 2 Mindo.

Brown-capped Vireo Vireo leucophrys 8/6 3 Águas Calientes, 9/6 c. 5 Machu Picchu, 4/7 1 Río Chido, 26/7 1 Bella Vista, 28/7 4 Mindo, 3/8 1 Guacamayos.

Chocó Vireo Vireo masteri** 23/7 1 Río Ñambí. Yes! This tricky bird was discovered at Río Ñambí in 1991 and described in 1996.

Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi 9/6 4 Machu Picchu, 11/7 4, 12/7 c. 5, 13/7 c. 5 Bombuscaro, 28/7 4 Mindo, 31/7 a few, 1/8 c. 5, 2/8 c. 5 San Rafael Falls.

Slate-throated Whitestart Myioborus miniatus Fairly common at many sites, primarily in the subtropical zone..

Spectacled Whitestart Myioborus melanocephalus 10/6 c. 15 Abra Málaga, 4/7 6, 5/7 c. 5 Río Chido, 26/7 c. 5 Bella Vista, 3/8 1 Guacamayos.

Southern Yellowthroat Geothlypis velata 15/6 1 female TRC. Split from Masked Yellowthroat.

Citrine Warbler Basileuterus luteoviridis 10/6 c. 15 Abra Málaga, 3/7 1 Pomacochas, 4/7 5, 5/7 7 Río Chido.

Pale-legged Warbler Basileuterus signatus 9/6 1 male+1 heard Machu Picchu.

Black-crested Warbler Basileuterus nigrocristatus 9/7 6 Utuana, 3/8 2 heard Guacamayos.

Gray-and-gold Warbler Basileuterus fraseri 9/7 1 Sozoranga.

Russet-crowned Warbler Basileuterus coronatus 8/6 2 Águas Calientes, 9/6 1 Machu Picchu, 26/7 4+c. 5 heard, 27/7 c. 10 heard Bella Vista, 3/8 c. 5 heard, 4/8 1+a few heard Guacamayos.

Three-striped Warbler Basileuterus tristriatus Fairly common in the subtropical zone (not seen in Peru).

Chocó Warbler Basileuterus chlorophrys 21/7 2, 22/7 2, 23/7 c. 15, 24/7 c. 10 Río Ñambí.

Three-banded Warbler Basileuterus trifasciatus 8/7 4, 9/7 3, 10/7 2 Sozoranga.

Buff-rumped Warbler Basileuterus fulvicauda 22/7 1, 23/7 1 heard Río Ñambí.

Bananaquit Coereba flaveola 30/6 6 Lurin, 2/7 c. 10, 3/7 1 Chamaya, 7/7 c. 10 Rafan, 12/7 2, 13/7 2. Bombuscaro, 28/7 4 Mindo.

Purple Honeycreeper Cyanerpes caeruleus 16/6 1 female TRC, 31/7 1 juv. male, 1 female, 1/8 3 males, 5 females, 2/8 c. 10 San Rafael Falls.

Green Honeycreeper Chlorophanes spiza 18/6 1 female TRC.

Golden-collared Honeycreeper Iridophanes pulcherrima 1/8 1 male, 1 female, 2/8 1 female San Rafael Falls.

Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana 16/6 1 male, 18/6 1 male TRC, 12/7 1 female Bombuscaro.

Black-faced Dacnis Dacnis lineata 16/6 2 males, 18/6 2 pairs TRC, 12/7 1 pair, 13/7 1 male, 1 female Bombuscaro, 31/7 1 female San Rafael Falls.

Yellow-bellied Dacnis Dacnis flaviventer 16/6 1 male TRC.

Giant Conebill Oreomanes fraseri* 11/6 2 Abra Málaga.

Cinereous Conebill Conirostrum cinereum 7/6 4 Sacsayhuaman, 9/6 1 Machu Picchu, 11/6 1 Peñas, 12/6 2 Huacarpay Lakes, 24/6 3 San Mateo, 28/6 1 Paracas, 4/8 2 W. Papallacta Pass.

White-browed Conebill Conirostrum ferrugineiventre 10/6 c. 20 Abra Málaga.

Blue-backed Conebill Conirostrum sitticolor 10/6 c. 10 Abra Málaga.

Capped Conebill Conirostrum albifrons 8/6 2 pairs Águas Calientes, 10/6 1 pair+1 male Machu Picchu, 4/7 2 males, 3 females, 5/7 1 male, 3 females Río Chido.

Bluish Flowerpiercer Diglossa caerulescens 4/7 2, 5/7 1 Río Chido.

Masked Flowerpiercer Diglossa cyanea 10/6 c. 15 Abra Málaga, 4/7 1 Río Chido, 9/7 3 Utuana, 26/7 c. 20, 27/7 c. 10 Bella Vista, 3/8 c. 25, 4/8 c. 5 Guacamayos.

Golden-eyed Flowerpiercer Diglossa glauca 31/7 1, 1/8 3, 2/8 4 San Rafael Falls, 3/8 3, 4/8 4 Guacamayos.

Indigo Flowerpiercer Diglossa indigotica 21/7 4, 24/7 2 Río Ñambí.

Moustached Flowerpiercer Diglossa mystacalis 10/6 c. 5+4 heard Abra Málaga.

Black-throated Flowerpiercer Diglossa brunneiventris 7/6 1 ad., 1 juv. Sacsayhuaman.

White-sided Flowerpiercer Diglossa albilatera 5/7 1 male Río Chido, 26/7 2 males Bella Vista.

Yellow-backed Tanager Hemithraupis flavicollis 16/6 2 TRC.

Rufous-chested Tanager Thlypopsis ornata 9/7 1 juv. Utuana.

Rust-and-yellow Tanager Thlypopsis ruficeps 9/6 c. 10 Machu Picchu, 11/6 1 Peñas.

Orange-eared Tanager Chlorochrysa calliparaea 12/7 1, 13/7 5, 14/7 1 Bombuscaro, 31/7 2, 1/8 4, 2/8 c. 8 San Rafael Falls.

Glistening-green Tanager Chlorochrysa phoenicotis 21/7 c. 5, 22/7 3, 23/7 4, 24/7 4 Río Ñambí.

Rufous-throated Tanager Tangara rufigula 21/7 2, 23/7 3, 24/7 4 Río Ñambí, 28/7 4 Mindo.

Golden Tanager Tangara arthus 11/7 5, 12/7 c. 10, 13/7 c. 8 Bombuscaro, 23/7 1 Río Ñambí, 27/7 5, 28/7 c. 10, 29/7 a few Mindo, 31/7 3, 1/8 c. 10 San Rafael Falls.

Silver-throated Tanager Tangara icterocephala 23/7 1 Río Ñambí, 28/7 1 Mindo.

Saffron-crowned Tanager Tangara xanthocephala 8/6 Águas Calientes, 9/6 10-15 Machu Picchu, 4/7 5, 5/7 2 Río Chido, 3/8 c. 15, 4/8 c. 5 Guacamayos.

Golden-eared Tanager Tangara chrysotis 11/7 1, 12/7 7, 13/7 1 Bombuscaro, 31/7 3, 1/8 8, 2/8 c. 5 San Rafael Falls.

Flame-faced Tanager Tangara parzudakii 8/6 1 Águas Calientes, 4/7 6 Río Chido, 21/7 3, 23/7 1, 24/7 1 Río Ñambí, 26/7 2 Bella Vista, 28/7 6, 29/7 a few Mindo, 3/8 c. 10, 4/8 1 Guacamayos.

Golden-naped Tanager Tanagara ruficervix 8/6 2 Águas Calientes, 9/6 1 Machu Picchu, 28/7 c. 10 Mindo, 1/8 3 San Rafael Falls.

Blue-browed Tanager Tangara cyanotis 2/8 1 San Rafael Falls.

Metallic-green Tanager Tangara labradorides 28/7 2 Mindo.

Beryl-spangled Tanager Tangara nigroviridis 9/6 1 Machu Picchu, 4/7 2 Río Chido, 26/7 5, 27/7 2 Bella Vista, 27/7 2 Mindo, 3/8 c. 25, 4/8 c. 10 Guacamayos.

Blue-and-black Tanager Tangara vassorii 9/6 2 Machu Picchu, 10/6 c. 10 Abra Málaga, 4/7 1, 5/7 2 Río Chido, 9/7 6 Utuana, 26/7 1, 27/7 1 Bella Vista, 3/8 c. 10 Guacamayos.

Black-capped Tanager Tangara heinei 3/8 1 pair Guacamayos.

Silver-backed Tanager Tangara viridicollis 4/7 1 male, 1 female, 5/7 1 male Río Chido, 8/7 3 males, 10/7 1 male Sozoranga, 9/7 1 pair Utuana.

Blue-necked Tanager Tangara cyanicollis 8/6 3 Águas Calientes, 9/6 3 Machu Picchu, 11/7 4, 12/7 c. 10, 13/7 c. 10 Bombuscaro, 31/7-2/8 common San Rafael Falls.

Turquoise Tanager Tangara mexicana 16/6 2, 18/6 2 TRC.

Opal-crowned Tanager Tangara callophrys 18/6 1 TRC.

Paradise Tanager Tangara chilensis 14/6 1 Posada Amazonas, 16/6 2, 18/6 c. 5 TRC, 17/6 5 Tavara, 11/7 c.10, 12/7 c. 20, 13/7 c. 10 Bombuscaro, 1/8 10, 2/8 2 San Rafael Falls.

Green-and-gold Tanager Tangara schrankii 14/6 1 Posada Amazonas, 16/6 3, 18/6 2 TRC, 19/6 4 Posada Amazonas, 12/7 2-3, 13/7 3 Bombuscaro.

Spotted Tanager Tangara punctata 12/7 2, 13/7 c. 5 Bombuscaro, 31/7 3, 1/8 c. 5, 2/8 4 San Rafael Falls.

Yellow-bellied Tanager Tangara xanthogastra 11/7 1, 13/7 1 Bombuscaro.

Bay-headed Tanager Tangara gyrola 11/7 1, 12/7 c. 10 Bombuscaro, 31/7 1 juv., 1/8 2 San Rafael Falls.

Thick-billed Euphonia Euphonia laniirostris 8/6 2 pairs Águas Calientes, 9/6 1 pair Machu Picchu, 8/7 2 pairs, 10/7 1 pair Sozoranga.

Orange-bellied Euphonia Euphonia xanthogaster 17/6 1 male Tavara, fairly common at several sites Ecuador and at Río Ñambí.

Purple-throated Euphonia Euphonia chlorotica 2/7 c. 10 Chamaya.

Bronze-green Euphonia Euphonia mesochrysa 3/8 1 male Guacamayos.

White-lored Euphonia Euphonia chrysopasta 19/6 1 male+1 heard Posada Amazonas.

Common Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus ophthalmicus 4/7 4 Río Chido, 11/7 1, 12/7 1, 13/7 c. 10 Bombuscaro, 1/8 3 San Rafael Falls, 3/8 c. 50, 4/8 c. 20 Guacamayos.

Ashy-throated Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus canigularis 12/7 1 Bombuscaro, 1/8 1 San Rafael Falls.

Dusky Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus semifuscus 26/7 c. 10, 27/7 1 Bella Vista, 28/7 2 Mindo.

Yellow-throated Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus flavigularis Common in the subtropical zone of Ecuador and at Río Ñambí.

Gray-hooded Bush-Tanager Cnemoscopus rubrirostris 4/7 2, 5/7 2 Río Chido.

Black-capped Hemispingus Hemispingus atropileus 10/6 c. 10 Abra Málaga, 3/8 3, 4/8 1 Guacamayos.

Parodi's Hemispingus Hemispingus parodii 10/6 1 Abra Málaga.

White-bellied Hemispingus Hemispingus (superciliaris) leucogaster 4/7 2, 5/7 1 Río Chido.

Oleaginous Hemispingus Hemispingus frontalis 9/6 1 Machu Picchu, 5/7 2 Río Chido, 4/8 1 Guacamayos.

Drab Hemispingus Hemispingus xanthophthalmus 10/6 1 Abra Málaga.

Three-striped Hemispingus Hemispingus trifasciatus 10/6 c. 10 Abra Málaga.

Piura Hemispingus Hemispingus (melanotis) piurae 9/7 1 Utuana. This distinct race is very likely to be split. If so it must be considered a quite uncommon Tumbesian endemic.

Fawn-breasted Tanager Pipraeidea melanonota 8/6 1 male Águas Calientes, 9/6 1 female Machu Picchu, 8/7 1 male, 1 female Sozoranga, 28/7 2 females Mindo.

Chestnut-bellied Mountain-Tanager Delothraupis castaneoventris 10/6 2 Abra Málaga.

Rufous-crested Tanager Creurgops verticalis 4/7 4, 5/7 1 Río Chido.

Golden-collared Tanager Iridosornis jelskii 10/6 4 Abra Málaga.

Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus somptuosus 4/7 5 Río Chido, 26/7 c. 15, 27/7 c. 5 Bella Vista, 28/7 6 Mindo, 3/8 c. 8, 4/8 2 Guacamayos.

Black-chinned Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus notabilis 22/7 2 Río Ñambí.

Lacrimose Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus lacrymosus 3/8 c. 5 Guacamayos.

Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus igniventris 10/6 c. 10 Abra Málaga.

Moss-backed Tanager Bangsia edwardsi 21/7 2, 22/7 1, 23/7 2, 24/7 2 Río Ñambí.

Buff-breasted Mountain-Tanager Dubusia taeniata 10/6 1 Abra Málaga.

Hooded Mountain-Tanager Buthraupis montana 3/8 6, 4/8 2 Guacamayos.

Grass-green Tanager Chlorornis riefferii 26/7 2, 27/7 2 Bella Vista, 3/8 3 Guacamayos.

Swallow-Tanager Tersina viridis 28/7 2 males Mindo.

Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus Fairly common at many sites at lower elevations.

Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum 16/6 1 TRC, 20/6 1 Puerto Maldonado, 28/7 c. 10 Mindo, 1/8 4 San Rafael Falls.

Blue-capped Tanager Thraupis cyanocephala 10/6 2 Abra Málaga, 4/7 c. 5, 5/7 c. 10 Río Chido, 4/7 2 Pomacochas, 26/7 5, 27/7 2 Bella Vista.

Blue-and-yellow Tanager Thraupis bonariensis 12/6 1 pair Huacarpay Lakes.

Silver-beaked Tanager Ramphocelus carbo 14-19/6 fairly common Tambopata, 2/7 1 female Jaen, 14/7 1 male Bombuscaro, 31/7 1 male, 1/8 2 males San Rafael Falls.

Masked Crimson Tanager Ramphocelus nigrogularis 14/6 1 Posada Amazonas, 15/6 at least 1 TRC.

Bright-rumped Tanager Ramphocelus flammigerus 24/7 1 male Río Ñambí, 27/7 9, 28/7 c. 10 Mindo.

Vermilion Tanager Calochaetes coccineus 12/7 2 Bombuscaro, 3/8 2 Guacamayos.

Red-crowned Ant-Tanager Habia rubica 16/6 1 male TRC.

Hepatic Tanager Piranga flava 9/6 2 males, 1 female Machu Picchu, 10/7 2 males, 1 female Sozoranga.

Ochre-breasted Tanager Chlorothraupis stolzmanni 21/7 1, 22/7 4, 23/7 c. 5, 24/7 1 heard Río Ñambí, 28/7 1 male Mindo.

White-winged Shrike-Tanager Lanio versicolor 16/6 1 male TRC.

White-shouldered Tanager Tachyphonus luctuosus 16/6 3-4 males TRC, 19/6 1 male Posada Amazonas, 31/7 1 pair, 1/8 1 male San Rafael Falls.

Fulvous-crested Tanager Tachyphonus surinamus 13/7 1 male Bombuscaro.

White-lined Tanager Tachyphonus rufus 24/7 1 pair Río Ñambí, 28/7 1-2 males Mindo.

Magpie Tanager Cissopis leveriana 14/6 1, 15/6 1, 18/6 4 TRC, 17/6 4 Tavara, 14/7 3 Zamora.

Streaked Saltator Saltator striatipectus 30/6 1 Lurin, 2/7 c. 10, 3/7 c. 10 Chamaya.

Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus 15/6 1, 16/6 1 TRC, 19/6 1 Posada Amazonas, 10/7 2 Sozoranga, 12/7 1, 14/7 1 Bombuscaro.

Black-winged Saltator Saltator atripennis 27/7 2 Mindo.

Golden-billed Saltator Saltator aurantiirostris 7/6 1 male, 2 females Sacsayhuaman, 10/6 1 male, 11/6 1 male, 1 female Peñas, 23/6 1 female Lake Junín.

Black-cowled Saltator Saltator nigriceps 9/7 2 Utuana.

Black-backed Grosbeak Pheucticus aureoventris 8/6 1 Cuzco-Ollantaytambo.

Southern Yellow-Grosbeak Pheucticus chrysogaster 24/6 2 San Mateo, 2/7 6, 3/7 c. 15 Chamaya, 3/7 1 Pomacochas, 4/7 a few Río Chido, 8-10/7 fairly common Sozoranga.

Slaty Finch Haplospiza rustica 4/8 2 males Guacamayos.

Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina 15/6 1 female TRC, 28/6 1 juv. male Paracas, 30/6 c. 25 Lurin.

Dull-colored Grassquit Tiaris obscura 2/7 4, 3/7 6 Chamaya.

Variable Seedeater Sporophila aurita 24/7 3 males Río Ñambí, 27/7 1 male Mindo.

Yellow-bellied Seedeater Sporophila nigricollis 9/6 2 males, 5 females Machu Picchu, 28/7 2 males, 2 females Mindo.

Black-and-white Seedeater Sporophila luctuosa 8/7 2 males, 2 females Sozoranga, 9/7 5 Utuana.

Drab Seedeater Sporophila simplex 3/7 1 Chamaya.

Chestnut-throated Seedeater Sporophila telasco 30/6 c. 200 Lurin.

Chestnut-bellied Seedeater Sporophila castaneiventris 2/8 2 males, 1 female San Rafael Falls.

Olive Finch Lysurus castaneiceps 2/8 1 San Rafael Falls.

Northern Rufous-naped Brush-Finch Atlapetes (rufinucha) latinuchus 4/7 2 Pomacochas, 4/7 3 , 5/7 a few Río Chido.

Tricolored Brush-Finch Atlapetes tricolor 27/7 1 Mindo.

Slaty Brush-Finch Atlapetes schistaceus 3/8 2, 4/8 1 Guacamayos.

White-winged Brush-Finch Atlapetes leucopterus 9/7 4, 10/7 2 Sozoranga.

Bay-crowned Brush-Finch Atlapetes seebohmi 9/7 6 Sozoranga.

Rusty-bellied Brush-Finch Atlapetes nationi 24/6 5 San Mateo.

Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch Buarremon brunneinuchus 4/7 1+1 heard Río Chido, 21/7 1, 23/7 1 Río Ñambí, 26/7 1 Bella Vista, 3/8 4 Guacamayos.

Orange-billed Sparrow Arremon aurantiirostris 12/7 1 male+3 heard, 13/7 3 heard Bombuscaro

Páramo Seedeater Catamenia homochroa 10/6 3 females Abra Málaga.

Band-tailed Seedeater Catamenia analis 7/6 a few Sacsayhuaman, 12/6 c. 20 Huacarpay Lakes, 24/6 10-15 San Mateo.

Plumbeous Sierra-Finch Phrygilus unicolor 11/6 c. 20 Abra Málaga, 25/6 2 males Milloc,

Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch Phrygilus plebejus 7/6 1 pair Sacsayhuaman, 8/7 c. 5, 10/7 c.15 Sozoranga.

Band-tailed Sierra-Finch Phrygilus alaudinus 7/6 c. 10 Sacsayhuaman, 12/6 c. 30 Huacarpay Lakes.

Mourning Sierra-Finch Phrygilus fruticeti 24/6 c. 20 San Mateo.

Peruvian Sierra-Finch Phrygilus punensis 7/6 6 Sacsayhuaman, 11/6 4 Peñas, 1 Ollantay-tambo, 22/6 1 Junín, 23/7 2 Lake Junín, 24/6 5 San Mateo.

White-winged Diuca-Finch Diuca speculifera 11/6 c. 5 Abra Málaga, 25/6 c. 10 Milloc.

Cinereous Finch Piezorhina cinerea 7/7 c. 25 Rafan.

Little Inca-Finch Incaspiza watkinsi* 2/7 3, 3/7 2 Chamaya.

Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis Common in many areas.

Yellow-browed Sparrow Ammodramus aurifrons 14/6 1 Posada Amazonas-TRC, 15/6 2 TRC, 14/7 1 Zamora, 31/7 1, 1/8 1+1 heard San Rafael Falls.

Red Pileated-Finch Coryphospingus cucullatus 2/7 c. 10, 3/7 8 Chamaya.

Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola 1/7 2 Chiclayo-Jaen, 2/7 c. 10, 3/7 8 Chamaya, 7/7 1 Rafan, 8/7 3 Sozoranga.

Grassland Yellow-Finch Sicalis luteola 30/6 c. 15 Lurin.

Bright-rumped Yellow-Finch Sicalis uropygialis 12/6 c. 5 Huacarpay Lakes, 22/6 c. 5 Junín, 23/7 c. 150 Lake Junín, 25/6 c. 150 Milloc.

Greenish Yellow-Finch Sicalis olivascens 7/6 1 male Cuzco, 25/6 1 male Milloc.

Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica 7/6 c. 10 Sacsayhuaman, 24/6 c. 5 San Mateo, 30/6 1 male Lurin, 2/7 2 Chamaya, 4/7 2 males Río Chido, 9/7 a few, 10/7 3 Sozoranga.

Yellow-rumped Siskin Carduelis uropygialis 23/6 1 male, 2 females Lake Junín.

Black Siskin Carduelis atrata 25/6 2 Milloc.

Lesser Goldfinch Carduelis psaltria 5/7 c. 10 females/imm. Pomacochas.

House Sparrow Passer domesticus Common in western Peru. Also seen in Zamora.

Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis 28/7 c. 30 Mindo.

Giant Cowbird Scaphidura oryzivora 13-20/6 fairly common Tambopata, 29/7 2 Mindo.

Crested Oropendola Psarocolius decumanus 13-20/6 fairly common Tambopata.

Russet-backed Oropendola Psarocolius angustifrons 13-20/6 common Tambopata, 6/7 c. 10 Pedro Ruiz-Bagua Grande, 12/7 6, 13/7 3 Bombuscaro, 31/7 2 heard, 1/8 c. 10, 2/8 2 San Rafael Falls, 3/8 c. 20 Guacamayos.

Dusky-green Oropendola Psarocolius atrovirens 8/6 1 Ollantaytambo-Águas Calientes, 2 Águas Calientes.

Olive Oropendola Psarocolius bifasciatus 13/6 1 Puerto Maldonado-Posada Amazonas, 13/6 2, 14/6 2 Posada Amazonas, 14/6 1 Posada Amazonas-TRC, 17/6 a few TRC-Tavara.

Yellow-rumped Cacique Cacicus cela 13-20/6 fairly common Tambopata.

Subtropical Cacique Cacicus uropygialis 12/7 2 Bombuscaro, 31/7 2, 2/8 2 heard San Rafael Falls, 3/8 2 Guacamayos.

Mountain Cacique Cacicus chrysonotus 5/7 1 Río Chido, 3/8 4-8, 4/8 5 Guacamayos.

Yellow-winged Blackbird Agelaius thilius 12/6 c. 100 Huacarpay Lakes.

Scrub Blackbird Dives warszewiczi Fairly common in western Peru and the Marañón valley. 8/7 2, 9/7 6 Sozoranga.

White-edged Oriole Icterus graceannae 7/7 1 Rafan.

Yellow-tailed Oriole Icterus mesomelas 2/7 6, 3/7 2+1 heard Chamaya, 8/7 1, 9/7 5 Sozoranga.

Peruvian Meadowlark Sturnella bellicosa 30/6 c. 20 Lurin, 4/7 c. 15, 5/7 c. 20 Pomacochas.

770 species

**= threatened

*= near-threatened


Saddle-backed Tamarin Saguinus fuscicollis 14/6 2 Posada Amazonas.

Brown Capuchin Cebus apella 16/6 1 TRC.

White-faced Capuchin Cebus albifrons 31/7 2 San Rafael Falls, 4/8 1 Guacamayos.

Black Spider Monkey Ateles paniscus 17/6 c. 5 Tavara.

Dusky Titi Monkey Callicebus moloch 13/6 heard, 14/6 1, 19/6 2 Posada Amazonas, 16/6 2, 18/6 several TRC.

Common Squirrel Monkey Saimiri sciureus 14/6 c. 10, 16/6 heard TRC, 19/6 c. 5 Posada Amazonas.

Red Howler Monkey Alouatta seniculus 14/6 5, 16/6 heard TRC.

Tayra Eira barbata 14/6 1 Posada Amazonas, 18/6 1 TRC.

Neotropical River Otter Lutra longicaudis 8/6 1 Ollantaytambo-Águas Calientes, 1 Águas Calientes.

Giant Otter Pteronura brasiliensis 17/6 3 Tavara.

Brazilian Porcupine Coendou bicolor 13/6 1 juv. Posada Amazonas.

Seal sp. (Otaria byronia?) 28/6 c. 200 Islas Ballestas. I'm confused about the seals at Islas Ballestas, were they Otaria (most probable) or South American Fur Seal?

Southern Red Squirrel Sciurus spadiceus 14-18/6 seen almost daily, Tambopata.

Northern/Southern Red Squirrels were seen at several sites in Ecuador.

Bolivian Squirrel Sciurus ignitus 18/6 1 TRC.

Western Dwarf Squirrel Microsciurus mimulus 22/7 1, 23/7 2 Río Ñambí.

Amazonian Dwarf Squirrel Microsciurus flaviventer 13/7 1 Bombuscaro.

Amazonian Bamboo Rat Dactylomys dactylinus Heard on most nights in Tambopata.

Capybara Hydrochaeris hydrochaeris 14/6 2 Posada Amazonas-TRC, 15/6 1 TRC, 17/6 8 TRC-Tavara.

Brown Agouti Dasyprocta variegata 16/6 2, 18/6 1 TRC.

Viscacha Lagidium sp. 11/6 3 Abra Málaga.

Red Brocket Deer Mazama americana 16/6 1 TRC, 17/6 1 Tavara.

See Colombian Mammals from the Chocoan Slopes of Nariño, by Alberto Cadena, Robert P. Anderson, & Pilar Rivas-Pava, Museum of Texas Tech University, Occasional Paper No. 180, 15 October 1998.


EBA 041 - Chocó - (22/62)

Dark-backed Wood-Quail, Colombian Screech-Owl, Chocó Poorwill, Empress Brilliant, Brown Inca, Velvet-purple Coronet, Gorgeted Sunangel, Purple-bibbed Whitetip, Violet-tailed Sylph, Toucan Barbet, Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan, Chocó Toucan, Nariño Tapaculo, Orange-breasted Fruiteater, Club-winged Manakin, Dusky Bush-Tanager, Moss-backed Tanager, Black-chinned Mountain-Tanager, Glistening-green Tanager, Indigo Flowerpiercer, Chocó Vireo, Beautiful Jay.

EBA 043 - Central Andean Páramo – (1/11)

Carunculated Caracara

EBA 044 - Ecuador-Peru East Andes - (5/17)

White-breasted Parakeet, Ecuadorian Piedtail, Rufous-vented Whitetip, Coppery-chested Jacamar, Ecuadorian Tyrannulet.

EBA 045 - Tumbesian region - (24/55)

Rufous-headed Chachalaca, Red-masked Parakeet, Pacific Parrotlet, Scrub Nightjar, Ecuadorian Piculet, Coastal Miner, Chapman's Antshrike, Collared Antshrike, Gray-headed Antbird, Watkins' Antpitta, Elegant Crescent-chest, Gray-and-white Tyrannulet, Rufous Flycatcher, Baird's Flycatcher, Peruvian Plantcutter, Superciliated Wren, Plumbeous-backed Thrush, Bay-crowned Brush-Finch, Cinereous Finch, Black-cowled Saltator, Gray-and-gold Warbler, Three-banded Warbler, White-edged Oriole, White-tailed Jay.

EBA 046 - South Central Andes - (2/8)

Rainbow Starfrontlet, Purple-throated Sunangel.

EBA 048 – Marañón Valley – (5/24)

Peruvian Pigeon, Pacific Parrotlet, Spot-throated Hummingbird, Drab Seedeater, Little Inca-Finch.

EBA 049 – North-east Peruvian Cordilleras – (1/24)

Marvelous Spatuletail

EBA 050 – Junín puna – (4/6)

Junín Grebe, Black-breasted Hillstar, Dark-winged Miner, White-bellied Cinclodes.

EBA 051 - Peruvian High Andes – (6/29)

Olivaceous Thornbill, Rusty-crowned Tit-Spinetail, White-browed Tit-Spinetail, Creamy-crested Spinetail, Rusty-fronted Canastero, Rusty-bellied Brush-Finch.

EBA 052 - Peru-Chile Pacific Slope – (2/9)

Coastal Miner, Peruvian Seaside-Cinclodes.

EBA 053 - Peruvian East Andean foothills – (1/14)

Green-and-white Hummingbird

EBA 055 - Bolivian and Peruvian upper yungas – (6/20)

Scaled Metaltail, Marcapata Spinetail, Diademed Tapaculo, Inca Wren, Parodi's Hemispingus, Golden-collared Tanager.

EBA 068 – South-east Peruvian lowlands – (4/12)

Scarlet-hooded Barbet, White-lined Antbird, Goeldi's Antbird, White-cheeked Tody-Tyrant.

Also by Samuel Hansson:

Brazil 2000

Brazil 2001

Copyright © 1992-2012 John Wall