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Northeast India BirdingMarch 7 – April 20 1998Henk HendriksCONTENTSGENERAL INFORMATION INTRODUCTIONAs part of a lengthy trip to Asia I spent, together with my wife Daniëlle Maatman, almost 7 weeks in the northeastern part of India. Many years ago I read about species seen while trekking in Darjeeling, and so, when I was able to get away from work for almost 5 months, I immediately made up my mind to visit this part of India in March and April. During the planning stage I corresponded with several birders more familiar with birding/travelling in the region and so slowly an itinerary developed. Because of the difficulties in obtaining permits for Arunuchal Pradesh and expenses involved I skipped this destination. For reasons of security I had to cancel a planned visit to Manas NP in Assam. In the end we decided to visit Assam (Kaziranga/Panbari Forest + Nameri), Darjeeling (Sandakphu Trek + Tiger Hill), Sikkim (Pemayangtse area + Gangtok + Yumthang Valley), West-Bengal (Lava area), Meghalaya (Shillong area + Cherrapunjee + Mawphlang). GETTING THERE – FLIGHTWe flew with Air India from Bangkok – New Delhi. We paid for a return ticket from Amsterdam to Bangkok (valid for 6 months) 850 US$. We used Air India because they allowed us a free stop in Bombay on our onward flight to Bangkok and also another free stop in New Delhi on our flight back to the Netherlands. We flew from New Delhi to Gauhati (Assam) with Jet Airways and from Bagdogra (West-Bengal) to New Delhi also with Jet Airways and we paid a little less than 400 US$ a person for both these tickets. In Gauhati we decided instead of taking the bus to buy another ticket to fly from Gauhati to Bagdogra. This one-way ticket cost us 50 US$. GETTING AROUNDWe used all kinds of transportation to travel around. We mostly used long distance busses in Assam and Meghalaya + jeep/taxis in Darjeeling/West-Bengal and Sikkim to travel larger distances. We bought our tickets the day before to be sure we had a seat. Sometimes we also used private taxis to cover greater distances or to reach places nearby. VISAYou do need a visa for India. I always use a travel agency to arrange this for me, which is convenient and brings no extra charges. We got a multiple-entry visa, issued for 6 months which cost us some 40 US$ Keep in mind that visas are valid from the date of issue. To visit Sikkim a special restricted area permit has to be obtained. This one is valid for 15-days only and I recommend to arrange that personally in Darjeeling. MONEYThe currency used in India is called the rupee and used to be rather stable. But during our visit to the southern part of India in December 1997 and January 1998 we received 37 to 38 rupees for 1 US$ but in March/April 1998 we got 41 to 42 rupees for 1 US$. We used Thomas Cook and American Express traveller’s cheques and both were easy to cash at banks. A credit card is useful when buying tickets for domestic flights or you can pay with it at the more expensive hotels. I am not sure you can get cash advances with a credit card. We always carry a certain amount of cash US$ with us for unforeseen situations. ACCOMMODATIONIndia offers a wide range of accommodation from budget to expensive. India can be a very cheap country to travel around in. FOOD AND DRINKSWe both like Indian food and generally the food is both tasty and cheap. But after 4 weeks or so Daniëlle got fed up with the food. Fortunately in places like Darjeeling you can have western food, pizza etc. if you like a change in your diet. We mostly ate hot vegetarian meals and drank mineral water, which is widely available, as well as tea, beer and rum. NEVER eat uncooked vegetables, meat which is not prepared well (watch out for chicken), fruit you have not peeled yourself and generally food which has already cooled off, or drink water from the tap. HEALTH AND SAFETYDuring our stay in the northeast I was never sick but Daniëlle got rather sick once but this was not food related. Acute Mountain Sickness is a serious threat when you travel too quickly to high altitudes. Drink a lot, avoid alcohol and, if this does not help, you have to descend. During the Sandakphu trek we reached 3600 meters and Daniëlle had a minor headache and was rather breathless. We both had a little headache when we visited Changu (Tsongo) Lake in Sikkim (4300 m.) Malaria is a problem in Assam (Kaziranga) so take precautions. In general we did not have a problem with mosquitoes. We encountered some leeches at Panbari Forest and at Pemayangtse. Assam, and also Meghalaya, are from time to time hit by ethnic violence. Several separatist movements are active and so, as a consequence, there is a heavy military presence in the region. Generally, this does not affect the safety of tourists as long as you use your common sense. Stay away from rioting crowds and when going to more remote areas inquire if there are any security problems in these areas. We did not encounter any problems and found the people generally very helpful and friendly. CLIMATE – WHEN TO GOThe best time to visit Assam, Meghalaya and Arunachal Pradesh is probably November – April. Trekking in Darjeeling is best undertaken in October/November and second half of March – first week of May. In Assam we had excellent weather: Mostly sunny with some overcast weather conditions, a little rain once or twice and the day time temperatures were very pleasant. Cherrapunjee in Meghalaya is supposed to be the wettest place on earth ( it did not rain during our visit though), and on our way back from Shillong to Gauhati it rained heavily. During our stay in Shillong it was one day rather chilly and foggy and also in the early morning when I visited Mawphlang it was cold and windy. The weather in Darjeeling is extremely variable. We had rain, fog and sunshine in Darjeeling and during the Sandakphu trek we had a severe snowstorm but also some beautiful sunny days. Nights, late afternoon and early morning were cold. In Sikkim we had mostly sunny weather with one thunderstorm and one gloomy day at Pemayangtse. The weather during my stay in Lava was excellent. The advantage of going in March/April is that all the northern migrants are still present and most resident/breeding species are either vocal or getting vocal in this period. LANGUAGEEven in the most remote areas one will find people who speak some kind of English. BIRDINGWe both found our trip to this part of India impressive. The combination of scenery, people/culture, some great mammals and of course birds made this an outstanding trip. Inevitably, we dipped on some species we were hoping to find but we did find some most wanted/sought-after species as well. Highlights were many but some of the best species seen were: Bengal Florican in Kaziranga, Pied Falconet in Panbari Forest, Ibisbill and Black-breasted Thrush at Nameri, Dark-rumped Swift at Cherrapunjee, Grey Sibia and Long-billed Thrush at Mawphlang, Cutia at Pemayangtse, Solitary Snipe near Changu Lake, Rusty-bellied Shortwing, Blue-winged Laughingthrush, Scarlet Finch and Yellow-throated Fulvetta at Lava, Blood Pheasant, Satyr Tragopan, Brown Parrotbill at the Sandakphu Trek and Slender-billed Scimitar-Babbler and Golden-breasted Fulvetta at Tiger Hill. Henk Hendriks REFERENCESBooks - Sibley/Monroe Distribution & Taxonomy of Birds of the World. - S. Ali/D. Ripley A Pictorial Guide to the Birds of the Indian Subcontinent - S. Ali/D. Ripley Compact Edition of the Handbook of the Birds of India & Pakistan. - Grimmett/Inskipp Birds of the Indian Subcontinent - K. Kazmierczak/R. Singh A Birdwatchers' Guide to India - Lonely Planet A Travel Survival Kit to India Map - We used Nelles' map of Northeast India and together with the maps in Krys Kazmierczak’s book and the Lonely Planet Guide this was sufficient. Articles & Reports - A variety of articles collected from OBC bulletins and the Forktail. AUDIO TAPE - Scott Connop Birdsongs of Nepal Birdsongs of the Himalaya. These tapes can both be ordered at Wildsounds Dept. 8-10, Cross St. Norfolk, NR25 7XH, UK. 01263-741100 Or NHBS Mailorder Bookstore E-mail: nhbs@nhbs. co. uk – Tel: +44(0)1803 865913 – Fax: 865280 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSFirst of all Jelle Scharringa who gave me pre-trip info about trekking in Darjeeling/Sikkim. Also Mr. Barua and the staff of the Wild Grass Lodge who made us most welcome and made all the arrangements necessary to make our stay at Kaziranga a successful one. Paul Holt with whom I had a couple of very enjoyable trips to Kaziranga and Panbari Forest. I really was lucky to be out in the field with a birder with such a great knowledge of Indian birds. Besides that I liked the conversations we had in the evening about birding and birding trips in general. George Richmond and his wife who gave us a very warm welcome in Shillong and last but not least Krys Kazmierczak who gave me plenty of information about the region from his book which was not published yet at the time of our visit. USEFUL ADDRESSESWild Grass Lodge Yak & Yeti Travels Trek-Mate Agency SITESIn this section I will only give info about our own personal trip. Far more comprehensive information can be gathered from Krys Kazmierczak’s “A Birdwatcher’s Guide to India”. See section Books and Reports. In my opinion any birder planning either a short or a long trip to India should buy this book. I will give info how we travelled to certain sites, accommodation, what species we saw etc. Only when I think I should provide new and/or additional info about sites I will do so. ASSAM – KAZIRANGA + PANBARI FORESTKaziranga is the number 1 tourist attraction in Assam. This park has a healthy population of Indian Rhino and it must be, together with Chitwan NP. in Nepal, one of the best places in the world to see this animal. Permits to visit the park are not cheap. We paid 175 RP. a person + 150 Rp. so-called road tax + 210 Rp camera fee, including telelens. Add to this the money you have to pay for the jeep (400 to 600 Rp. depending on how many km. you drive) and you see that the whole experience is not cheap. Panbari Forest is nearby and will give you a different set of species. Getting there: It takes some 6 hours by bus from Gauhati to Kohora or the nearby Wild Grass Lodge. Accommodation: If you can afford it try to stay at the Wild Grass Lodge. They will make all the necessary arrangements for you to enter the park (permits, jeeps, guides and elephants) + Panbari Forest. They know what birders want. For reservation see the useful addresses section Some species seen: The list of these sites is extensive so I only mention what I find the more interesting observations. For a complete list see the annotated checklist. Swamp Partridge, Yellow-legged Button Quail, Bengal Florican, Greater Adjutant, Grey-headed Lapwing, Tawny Fish Owl, Grey Peacock Pheasant (H. only), Pied Falconet, Grey-bellied and Slaty-bellied Tesia, Pale-chinned Flycatcher, Lesser Shortwing, Rufous-necked, Greater Necklaced and Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush, Sultan Tit and Yellow-vented Warbler. ASSAM – NAMERI WILDLIFE CAMPThis is actually a fishing camp near the Nameri River. It is a quiet place and deserves a visit of a couple of days. It is a reliable area to observe White-winged Wood Duck though we dipped. Also Long-billed Plover and Ibisbill along the river. I can recommend the trail which goes west through nice riverine forest. Getting there: We arranged transport through the Wild Grass Lodge. It took some 3 – 4 hours and cost around 700 Rp. We came from Kaziranga but you can also travel from Gauhati straight to Nameri. But it will still be necessary to book in advance. Again contact the office of the Wild Grass Lodge in Gauhati. See useful addresses section. Accommodation: Some 8 large tents are erected around a grassy area. A large tent is used as a dining room. All tents have private facilities (toilet/bathroom). It is not cheap (800 Rp. a night). The Wild Grass people made our reservations 2 days in advance. I birded mainly along the main road to the river, along the river, the forest at the other side of the river, (with a guide) and along the so-called River Trail. Some species seen: Collared Falconet, Ibisbill, Small Pratincole, Wreathed Hornbill, Black-breasted Thrush, Barred Cuckoo Dove, Bengal Bushlark, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Grey-bellied Tesia and Daurian Redstart. MEGHALAYA – SHILLONG (MAWPHLANG) + CHERRAPUNJEEAs these sites are easily accessed from Gauhati and hold several rare species we decided to spend a couple of days in this state. Long-billed Wren Babbler and Grey Sibia are some of the specialities found in the Shillong area. Cherrapunjee can easily be visited from Shillong and this gives you the chance to observe one of the rarest swifts of the world, The Dark-rumped Swift which is only present from late February to the end of April. Cherrapunjee is supposed to be the wettest place on earth mainly between April and October. It did not rain when we visited the place. Getting there: Shillong is reached by bus and this will take 3 – 4 hours from Guwahati. Cherrapunjee is almost 60 km. from Shillong and it takes 2 hours to get there by taxi. Mawphlang sacred grove is 25 km. from Shillong (45 min. by taxi) Accommodation: There is plenty of accommodation in Shillong. I birded mainly around Cherrapunjee for the Swift and at Mawphlang sacred grove. Some species seen: Dark-rumped Swift, Grey Sibia, Long-billed and Scaly Thrush, White-browed Shortwing, White-browed Scimitar Babbler, Golden Bush Robin, Daurian Redstart, Black-throated Parrotbill, Pale-footed Bush Warbler, Chestnut-crowned Warbler, Snowy-browed, Verditer and Sapphire Flycatcher, Large & Rufous-bellied Niltava, Yellow-cheeked Tit and Green-tailed Sunbird. NORTH BENGAL - DARJEELING – TIGER HILLI recommend at least 2 early morning visits to this site to observe most of the goodies. This almost 2600 m. high “hill” is easily accessible from Darjeeling. Getting there: The best thing to do is to arrange the evening before to travel with one of the many jeeps which take tourists in the early morning up the mountain to witness the sunrise over the Kanchenjunga range which is really spectacular when the weather is clear. You have to pay a round trip fare even if you do not go back with the jeep. Walk and bird down along the main road from the viewpoint to the ornamental gate and bird along the trail which starts just below this gate in south-easterly direction. When you are finished birding, walk down the main road to Ghoom and take a taxi/bus back to Darjeeling. Accommodation: A hotel in Darjeeling. Best species seen: Yellow-billed Blue Magpie, Black-throated Parrotbill, Rufous-capped Babbler, Golden-breasted, Rufous-winged and White-browed Fulvetta, Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler, Scaly Laughingthrush, Chestnut-headed Tesia, Aberrant and Yellow-bellied Bush Warbler, Ashy-throated, Buff-barred, Lemon-rumped Leaf Warbler, Golden-spectacled Warbler, Maroon-backed & Rufous-breasted Accentor, Golden Bush Robin, Blue-fronted Redstart, Plain-backed Thrush, White-collared Blackbird, Dark-rumped Rosefinch and Red-headed Bullfinch. NORTH BENGAL - DARJEELING - SANDAKPHU TREKThis trek is recommended because it gives fairly easy access to excellent habitat like bamboo, oak, rhododendron and fir forest between roughly 2000 and 3700 m. You can organise this trek completely on your own but we chose to arrange everything through a small trekking agency TREK- MATE which is located right on the mall in Darjeeling opposite Hotel Bellevue and which can be recommended. As Daniëlle is not very keen on walking up a mountain we organised a jeep to take us all the way up to Sandakphu (expensive: 3000 Rp.) and after 2 days in the Sandakphu area we walked down in a leisurely pace in order to spend as much time to birding as possible. We also hired a porter (this cost us 200 Rp. a day) who carried one large backpack and we both only carried our small daypacks so we could concentrate fully on birding. I suggest you spent 2 days in the Sandakphu area, 1 day around Kalipokhari, 2 days at Gairibans (excellent area) and 1 or ½ day (morning) near Megma. The small trekker’s huts/lodges on this trek are both cheap and basic but sufficient. They definitely have a distinctive atmosphere. The food is also basic but good. Bring some bread, cheese, crackers etc. with you from Darjeeling. There are many more trekking possibilities in the area. For instance you can walk further towards Phalut and/or Rimbik but in my opinion the track between Manebhanjang and Sandakphu gives you a very good variety of species (some very good ones) and is also rather easy to cover. The weather can be very unpredictable as we found out ourselves when we were caught in a severe snowstorm on the second day of our trek. Be prepared for ANY kind of weather. Best species seen: Cinereous and Himalayan Vulture, Blood Pheasant, Satyr Tragopan, Hill Partridge, Collared Pygmy Owlet, Rufous-bellied, Crimson-breasted & Darjeeling Woodpecker, Spotted Nutcracker, Yellow-billed Blue Magpie, Streak-breasted & Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler, Scaly-breasted Wren Babbler, Brown & Black-throated Parrotbill, Red-capped Babbler, Black-faced, Spotted and Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, Green Shrike-Babbler, Whiskered, Stripe-throated & Rufous-vented Yuhina, White-browed & Orange-flanked Bush Robin, White-browed & Rufous-winged Fulvetta, Grey-sided Bush Warbler, Ashy-throated, Buff-barred, Blyth’s & Lemon-rumped Warbler, Blue-fronted Redstart, Little Forktail, Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush, White-collared Blackbird, Plain-backed Thrush, Rufous-breasted Accentor, Green-backed, Grey-crested, Rufous-vented, Rufous-fronted & Yellow-browed Tit, White-tailed Nuthatch, Nepal Treecreeper, Hoary-throated Barwing, Plain Mountain Finch, White-winged Grosbeak, Dark-breasted & White-browed Rosefinch. NORTH BENGAL – LAVASome very good and sought-after species can be found around the village of Lava. Lava can now easily be accessed from Kalimpong. In the past you needed a special permit to visit this area but this is no longer necessary. It takes a little more than one hour by taxi to reach Lava. (32 km. from Kalimpong) I visited the area one day as a day trip from Kalimpong and I spent another 2 full days in the area and during that period I stayed at a small lodge in Lava. I stayed in the one next to the Yankee Resort because I liked that place better. They also run a small shop/restaurant and the people were very friendly. I suggest at least 3 full days in the Lava area. I found one of the best areas between km. 2 and 7 along the main road towards Kalimpong. At the 4 km. marker there is an obvious ravine on the left side of the road (coming from Lava) which is apparently good for Blue-fronted Robin (I dipped) but Yellow-throated Fulvetta is easily found here. Rufous-throated Wren-Babbler was also found at the 3 km. marker along the same road. Another recommended track is the one towards the Neora Valley. I mainly birded the first 5 km. along this track and found among others the rare Rusty-bellied Shortwing in a gully some 4 km. from the beginning of the track. Best species seen in the Lava area: Crested Serpent Eagle, Oriental Turtle Dove, Large Hawk Cuckoo, Common and Oriental Cuckoo, Crimson-breasted Woodpecker, Great Hill Barbet, Black, Striated, Mountain and Himalayan Bulbul, Streak-breasted, Rusty-cheeked and Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler, Rufous-throated and Pygmy Wren-Babbler, Stripe-throated and Whiskered Yuhina, Rufous-capped, Golden and Grey-throated Babbler, White-throated, Striated, Grey-sided, Scaly, Blue-winged and Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, Red-faced Liocichla, Rusty-fronted Barwing, Rufous-winged and Yellow-throated Fulvetta, Red-tailed?, Blue-winged and Chestnut-tailed Minla, Rufous-bellied Niltava, Ferruginous, Verditer, Little Pied, Rufous-gorgeted + White-gorgeted and Pygmy Blue Flycatcher, Chestnut-headed Tesia, Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler, Large-billed Leaf Warbler, Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush, Grey-winged Blackbird, Golden-spectacled and White-spectacled Warbler, Grey-headed, Grey-cheeked, Chestnut-crowned and Black-faced Warbler, White-tailed Robin, White-browed Bush Robin, Rusty-bellied and White-browed Shortwing, Green-backed, Yellow-browed, Yellow-cheeked and Black-throated Tit, Gould’s and Green-tailed Sunbird, Scarlet and Gold-naped Finch, Brown and Red-headed Bullfinch. SIKKIM – PEMAYANGTSE GOMPAThis site gave us quite a lot of nice species. Pemayangtse Gompa is located on a hill (2100 m.) and gives incredible views of the Kanchenjunga range. It is the combination of the impressive Gompa, the fantastic scenery and the birding which made our stay a memorable one. We stayed at a very nice little hotel in the small village of Pelling from where it is a 3 km. walk to the Pemayangtse Gompa. Pelling/Pemayangtse can be reached from either Darjeeling (3 – 4 hours by jeep) or Gangtok ( 4 –5 hours). We mainly birded the area around the Gompa and on the ridge behind the nearby Sangachoeling Gompa which is the oldest gompa in Sikkim. From behind the football field in Pelling a sometimes steep track goes up to this gompa. Find the trail behind the gompa which mainly follows a ridge for good birding. Species seen include: Mountain Hawk Eagle, Black Eagle, Himalayan Griffon, Common, Oriental and Indian Cuckoo, White-throated Needletail, Great Barbet, Grey-headed and Bay Woodpecker, Lesser Yellownape, Grey Treepie, Striated Bulbul, Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler, Rufous-capped and Black-chinned Babbler, Hoary-throated and Rusty-fronted Barwing, Striated, Grey-sided and Greater Necklaced Laughingthrush, Rufous-winged and White-browed Fulvetta, Whiskered Yuhina, Cutia, White-browed Shrike-Babbler, Rufous Sibia, Pygmy Blue, Verditer, Snowy-browed and Sapphire Flycatcher, Grey-sided and Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler, Blyth’s, Ashy-throated, Lemon-rumped and Yellow-browed Warbler, Grey-hooded, Golden-spectacled and Chestnut-crowned Warbler, Blue-fronted Redstart, Grey-winged Blackbird, Green-backed and Black-throated Tit, White-tailed Nuthatch, Fire-tailed and Green-tailed Sunbird, Fire-breasted Flowerpecker, White-tailed Robin, Dark-breasted Rosefinch and Red-headed Bullfinch. SIKKIM – CHANGU LAKEWe visited this lake on a day trip from Gangtok (36 km. from Gangtok). It can easily be arranged through one of the local travel agencies. They will arrange your transport and permits. We found the trip a little disappointing despite the impressive landscapes. But there were just too many tourists (mainly Indian nationals) at the lake and the military did not allow us to wander around so our movements were rather restricted. Most of the lake (4000 m.) was frozen and the only species we saw were Common Pochards, Raven and Alpine Accentor. But when we descended a little (back towards Gangtok) we discovered during a walk along a stream a lonely Solitary Snipe. Also White-throated & Brown Dipper. ITINERARYMarch 7 We left Bangkok at 18. 30 p.m. for our 2-hour flight with Air India to New Delhi. We arrived at Delhi airport at 19. 00 p.m. local time. As we had an early morning flight the next day to Gauhati we decided to take a room in the nearby Airport hotel. This turned out to be a total rip-off. They wanted 1250 Rp. for a double room which was not worth 400 Rp. In the end we paid 1000 Rp. which is still too much but we did not feel like driving into the city at night to look for something cheaper. March 8 Morning flight with Jet Airways from New Delhi to Gauhati (Assam). This flight took 2 hours and we arrived at Gauhati at 13. 00. We took a taxi to the old Hotel Bellevue which is nicely situated on the shore of the Brahmaputra river. ( 825 Rp. + tax. ) Disadvantage is that it is far from the centre/bus stations etc. Gauhati is really a very dirty town with a heavy military presence. March 9 In the morning we paid a visit to the office of the Wild Grass Lodge in Gauhati. Met the owner Mr. Barua who was very friendly and helpful and he especially welcomes birders at his place. His son Maan Barua is supposed to be a good and well-known birder, but unfortunately I was unable to meet him during our stay. He offered us to stay at a small quiet bungalow near the Wild Grass Lodge for 500 Rp. a day which was a very good deal. In the afternoon we visited the zoo, watched white tigers and did some casual birding in the area. We also visited a stakeout for Greater Adjutant at the outskirts of Gauhati and had excellent views. March 10 We travelled by bus (6 hours) from Gauhati to the Wild Grass Lodge near Kohora. We told the driver we were heading for the lodge and he dropped us right in front of the lodge making a short detour. Our bungalow was very nice and clean. We paid the manager a visit and through him everything can be arranged: game-drives by jeep in the park, elephant rides, visits to Panbari forest etc. We arranged a trip with an elephant for the next morning. In the afternoon we birded the dry scrub on the edge of the nearby tea estate. We saw quite a few common species but some of the better species included Lesser Coucal, White-throated Bulbul (common), Greater Necklaced, White-crested, 2 flocks of Rufous-necked Laughingthrushes, a beautiful male Siberian Rubythroat, Tickell’s and Dusky Leaf Warblers. March 11 We took an elephant ride in the early morning in Kaziranga. Good views of Buffalo, Rhino, Swamp Deer and a lot of common waterbirds. In the afternoon we made a trip by jeep in the central section of the park. The park was teeming with birds. Among others we had good views of Swamp Francolin, Hen and Pied Harrier, Rufous-bellied Eagle, Grey-headed Lapwing and also of a very confiding Yellow-legged Buttonquail. In the evening I met Paul Holt who had just finished a successful trip to Arunachal Pradesh with Krys Kazmierczak and Jon Hornbuckle. We decided to visit the nearby Panbari Forest, early next morning. March 12 Drove the short distance to Panbari Forest, picked up our obligatory guide and birded the forest for 3 hours. Despite the fact that large areas of this forest are rather degraded, it still holds a lot of good birds. Some species seen included: Scope views of a perched Pied Falconet, we heard several Grey Peacock Pheasants, Brown-backed Needletail, Yellow-footed Green Pigeon, Banded Bay Cuckoo, brief views of a male Lesser Shortwing, Orange-headed Thrush, Grey-winged Blackbirds, great views of very vocal Grey-bellied Tesias, heard Slaty-bellied Tesia, unexpected good views of a Yellow-vented Leaf Warbler thanks to Paul Holt, Blyth’s Leaf Warbler, Golden-spectacled and Chestnut-crowned Warblers, Pale-chinned Flycatcher, Sultan Tit, Puff-throated Babbler and Plain Flowerpecker. In the afternoon we visited the western section of Kaziranga. Highlight was a Tawny Fish Owl, which flew over the track in front of our jeep. At one time our guides became very nervous when a tusker approached our car and to our astonishment they started to set the grass around our car on fire to chase him off. No wonder most of the Rhinos and Elephants in the park are generally so aggressive towards men and cars. Imagine if people would do the same thing in Africa every time an Elephant came close to a vehicle. When we left the park and we rounded a corner we were attacked by a Rhino mother with calf and our driver really had to accelerate to keep in front of the animal. We spent a very enjoyable evening with Paul talking about birds and birding in India. March 13 In the early morning we drove to the eastern section of the park and had good views of a male Bengal Florican. The afternoon was spent birding the scrubby area near the Wild Grass Lodge again. I identified at least 2 Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrushes. White-browed Scimitar Babbler, Black-backed Forktail, Green Magpie and Siberian Rubythroat were also seen. March 14 Another morning visit to the Panbari Forest. With Paul Holt we visited the eastern sector of Kaziranga again and this time we observed 4 male Bengal Florican. On the way back our driver accelerated unexpectedly which meant that I was hit by a piece of iron in the back of the car right into my kidney’s. They were rather bruised and I certainly did not feel very well at the time. Fortunately the pain diminished in a few days. March 15 An early morning stroll near the Wild Grass Lodge gave us Peregrine Falcon and Crested Honey Buzzard. We had arranged through the Wild Grass Lodge transportation from the Lodge to the Nameri Wildlife Camp. This is actually a Fishing Camp/Eco Camp. The rare Golden Mahseer which is apparently a rare fighting fish occurs in this part of the river. But they also allow birdwatchers to stay here. It is a small tented camp. For a large tent with private facilities you pay 800 Rp. a night. They also provide excellent meals. In the afternoon I birded along the road towards the river and along the river trail. A fruiting tree along the river trail was teeming with pigeons, hornbills and barbets. We observed Collared Falconet, Pin-tailed Green and Pompadour Pigeon, Wreathed and Great Hornbill, Dollarbird, Chestnut-headed and Blue-bearded Bee-eater and Daurian Redstart. March 16 We crossed the river with a guide and made a walk in the rather degraded forest in search of White-winged Wood Duck. The Duck we could not find but when we crossed the river again we had excellent views of a lone Ibisbill. Afternoon was spent on the river trail again. Best species today were: Pallas Sea Eagle, Bonelli’s Eagle, Small Pratincole, Ibisbill, Great Thick-knee, Bar-tailed Cuckoo-Dove, Green-billed Malkoha, Blue-bearded Bee-eater, Bengal Bushlark and excellent views of a male Black-breasted Thrush. Gunshots and firecrackers in the night. The local people tried to chase off elephants who ventured into their fields and threatened to destroy their crops. The continuing battle between man and wildlife. March 17 We drove 20 km. or so upstream for a gentle rafting trip back to our main camp. Very relaxed. During this trip I was constantly scanning the gravel banks of the river for the rare Long-billed Plover but we did not see one. In the afternoon I made a second attempt for the Wood-Duck but again dipped. March 18 A couple of hours in the early morning on the river trail. Then we left Nameri for Gauhati. It took almost 5 hours by bus to reach Gauhati. We took a rather shabby room in hotel Indihraj. (300 Rp but no water) March 19 It took 3-4 hours by bus to reach Shillong from Gauhati. We phoned from our hotel Pinewood (780 Rp. + tax.) to our friend George Richmond a retired tea-planter we had met at Nameri. We were invited to have dinner with him and his family and he also arranged a nice little apartment nearby for us for 300 Rp. March 20 George insisted on showing us around town. We did a little birding but it was chilly and foggy so we did not see much. March 21 We visited with George, his wife and driver the market of Cherrapunjee. Above the cliffs at the outside of this town I saw plenty of Swifts but unfortunately only distant views. After 20 minutes or so some birds came a lot closer and finally I was able to identify them positively as Dark-rumped Swifts one of the rarest and least known birds in the world. Later we drove further to a viewpoint which gave views over the nearby plains of Bangladesh. Single Dark-rumped Swifts were observed here as well. March 22 In the early morning I drove with one of the cars of George and his driver to Mawphlang Sacred Grove. I birded the area all morning. I noticed that the birds here were extremely shy which is probably the result of extensive trapping and catapult shooting by locals. Despite this I still found some good birds. First of all one of the local specialities the Grey Sibia though I took me quite some time to find one or two birds. When birding along a stream I flushed a large thrush which flew low into a nearby tree and allowed excellent views. A fine Long-billed Thrush. I saw Large and Rufous-bellied Niltava, Snowy-browed, Blue-throated, Verditer and a male Sapphire Flycatcher, Scaly Thrush, Golden-throated Barbet, White-browed Shortwing, White-browed Scimitar Babbler, Black-throated Parrotbill, Golden Bush Robin, Yellow-cheeked Tit, Chestnut-crowned, Greenish, Yellow-browed, Blyth’s and Lemon-rumped Warbler, Pale-footed Bush Warbler and Green-tailed Sunbird. I had caught a little cold and felt a little weak so the rest of the day was spent reading at our apartment. March 23 Two of George’s sons had to do some business in Gauhati and they gave us a lift back to Gauhati. Most of the time we drove in heavy rain. When we arrived in Gauhati the town was even dirtier then the first time we arrived here. A room in hotel ?? March 24 To the airport and we had a short flight (30 minutes for 50 US$) to Bagdogra. After clearing customs the taxi drivers were already waiting for us outside the airport. We drove with a taxi straight to Darjeeling. (3-4 hours for 650 Rp). No cars are allowed on the Mall in Darjeeling so you either have to walk and carry all your luggage yourself or hire a porter and that was just what we did. We took a room in hotel Bellevue right on the top of the Mall (350 Rp). When we walked around we found a much nicer small guesthouse nearby (called “Classic”) which had only 3 rooms and they charged 400 Rp. including breakfast. We booked a room for the next day. March 25 We spent all day in Darjeeling. We visited the Tibetan Refugee Centre, the zoo and the city centre. Rain in the afternoon. I arranged a taxi to take me to Tiger Hill the next day at 6.00 am. March 26 At 6.00 am. and of course no taxi. After 30 minutes I was lucky to stop another taxi which was prepared to bring me to Tiger Hill for too much money. It was a bright sunny morning and I had an excellent morning of birding on Tiger Hill. Several beautifully plumaged Yellow-billed Blue Magpies, some flocks of Black-throated Parrotbills, Rufous-capped Babblers, at least 3 Golden-breasted Fulvettas, White-browed and Rufous-winged Fulvetta, I taped in Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler, Scaly and Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, Red-flanked Bluetail, good views of Chestnut-headed Tesia, 2 males of Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher, Aberrant Bush Warbler, Yellow-bellied Fantail, Stripe-throated Yuhina, Ashy-throated, Buff-barred and Lemon-rumped Warbler, Golden-spectacled Warbler, Maroon-backed Accentor, Dark-rumped Rosefinch, Red-headed Bullfinch and Plain Mountain Finch. At noon I walked back down to the main road at Ghoom and took a bus back to Darjeeling. In the afternoon I arranged an official taxi with other tourists for the next morning to drive up to Tiger Hill. March 27 At dawn I was standing at the top of Tiger Hill but unfortunately it was a cloudy/foggy morning so no good views of the Kanchenjunga range. Again I birded all morning on the mountain and I added some good species to my list. Notable Golden Bush Robin, Scaly-breasted Wren-Babbler, Plain-backed Thrush, White-collared Blackbird, Yellow-bellied Bush Warbler and Rufous-breasted Accentor. Walked down to Ghoom again and bussed back to Darjeeling. In the afternoon we arranged our trekking to Sandakphu through the small Trek-mate agency in the Pinewood Hotel on the Mall. Bought some provisions for the trek. March 28 We left most of our luggage behind in our guesthouse and prepared 1 big rucksack for the 2 of us. Robin our porter during the trek carried this rucksack while we both carried our daypacks. First we drove to Manebhanjang and then straight up to Sandakphu. The whole afternoon we birded the area around Sandakphu and the trail down towards Rimbik. We saw at least 3 flocks of Black-faced Laughingthrushes, Plain-backed Thrush, White-collared Blackbird, Dark-breasted and White-browed Rosefinch and White-winged Grosbeak. March 29 When we woke up this morning the sky was grey and snow was in the air. First we walked the first 4 km. on the wide track towards Phalut. At first we saw a few circling Himalayan Griffon vultures and suddenly a Cinereous Vulture appeared. We also saw more Black-faced Laughingthrushes but also 2 Spotted Laughingthrushes. At least 3 males of White-browed Bush Robin were seen. When I later birded along the small trail below Sandakphu towards Rimbik it started to snow. First lightly and then more and more and more… Decided to return, as I was afraid to lose the trail. I had superb and close views of 2 male Blood Pheasants just off the trail. Other notable species include a fine male Rufous-bellied Woodpecker, Grey-crested Tit, Rufous-vented Tit and Nepal Treecreeper. March 30 Unbelievable. When I looked outside there was a layer of at least 50-70 centimetres of snow and on corners the wind had blown this up to over 1 meter. And it still snowed. Together with Robin we decided to descend to Kalipokhari to avoid getting stuck completely at Sandakphu. It is only 6 km. down to Kalipokhari following a normally obvious wide trail. But it took us several hours, stumbling through deep snow to reach Kalipokhari. We heard later that a couple of American hikers had to turn back to Sandakphu because of this snowstorm and they had almost lost their trail in the snow going back. March 31 Normally, we would have spent at least one day in the area below Kalipokhari but because of the heavy snowfall this was impossible and also highly unproductive so we decided to descend further to Gairibans. This turned out to be a good decision as the area around Gairibans was very productive. As we continued downwards the weather cleared and we had nice and sunny weather for the next couple of days. At Gairibans there is a nice lodge and we decided to stay here at least 3 nights. Only a few patches of snow around Gairibans. In the afternoon we birded along the deserted jeep-trail east of the lodge. April 1 We birded all day around Gairibans, mostly along the trails east of the Lodge. Some species seen were: Collared Pygmy Owlet (heard only), Darjeeling and Crimson-breasted Woodpecker, Green-backed, Rufous-fronted and Yellow-browed Tit, White-tailed Nuthatch, Black-throated Parrotbill, Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler, Black-faced Laughingthrush, Whiskered, Rufous-vented and Stripe-throated Yuhina, White-browed Bush Robin, Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush and Dark-breasted Rosefinch. April 2 Again birding in the Gairibans area, trails east and along the first 3 km. of the main jeep-trail to Megma. Twice I heard a Satyr Tragopan but never saw the bird. Hill Partridge was also regularly heard. Other species not seen the previous day were Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler, Spotted and Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, Scaly-breasted Wren Babbler, Hoary-throated Barwing, White-capped Redstart, Little Forktail, White-collared Blackbird and Grey-sided Bush Warbler. April 3 Early morning departure to Megma. After 2 km. I suddenly heard a Satyr Tragopan calling from a dense area of bamboo in a steep gully. Decided to go down after the bird realising I would probably not get a second chance to see this enigmatic species. I went down and from time to time the bird responded to tape playback. Finally I saw some movement in the bamboo and after positioning myself in a different angle I had good views of a displaying male Satyr Tragopan on a small platform on the edge of the bamboo. One of the highlights of the entire trip. Satisfied I crawled back up the steep hill side. At 11. 00 we arrived at Megma and decided to spend the night there. In the afternoon I took the Tibetan Mastiff “Buso” with me on a walk in the Megma area. Probably the first time someone took him for a walk and let him go free. He was so happy running around and from time to time showed his gratitude by trying to run me over at full speed. It reminded me walking my German Shepherd “Sita” at home. (We were already 4 months on the road.) Despite the dog I saw some new species: Brown Parrotbill and Green Shrike Babbler. The Parrotbills were discovered because of the noise they make when breaking the bamboo. Normally they behave rather inconspicuously. April 4 Last day of the trek. From Megma we walked the last steep stretch down to Manebhanjang and from there we took a jeep back to Darjeeling. It felt quite good to have a nice hot shower again. April 5 It rained most of the day in Darjeeling. When I looked at the surrounding mountains they were all covered in clouds and rain. I wondered how the situation was on the Sandakphu trek right now. I think we had to be thankful that we had at least 4 clear, sunny days during our trekking on the mountain. April 6 Most of the morning was used for obtaining our Sikkim permit. This was the usual Indian bureaucratic hassle. Visited a travel agency to book our flight from Bagdogra to New Delhi later in the month. April 7 Today we travelled by jeep/taxi from Darjeeling – Jorethang – Gezing – Pelling/Pemayangtse. (3, 5 hours) We used 3 jeeps to reach our final destination. In the first jeep we travelled with a total of 12 people so during the next stretch we decided to pay for an extra seat to be more comfortable. This worked out fine. In Pelling we took a room in hotel Nagugang (550 Rp. for a double). Late afternoon we walked the short distance to Pemayangtse monastery for a short visit. We observed among others Striated Bulbul, Rufous-capped Laughingthrush, Rusty-fronted Barwing, Whiskered Yuhina, Rufous Sibia, Grey-winged Blackbird, Tickell’s Thrush and Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler. April 8 After breakfast we walked to the Pemayangtse monastery again and birded in the scrub around it. In the afternoon we decided to check out the other side of Pelling. First we walked up (steep) to a small gompa (Sangachoeling Gompa) and from there a nice trail continues over a ridge and was excellent for birds. Heavy thunderstorm in the afternoon with spectacular lightning. We observed some excellent species today: Himalayan Griffon, Mountain Hawk Eagle, Black Eagle, heard Indian Cuckoo, Oriental Cuckoo, Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler, Striated Laughingthrush, Grey-sided Laughingthrush, Hoary-throated and Rusty-fronted Barwing, superb views of Cutia on some moss covered branches, 3 species of Minla, White-browed Shrike-Babbler, White-tailed Robin, Grey-sided and Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler, Ashy-throated Warbler, Snowy-browed Flycatcher, Fire-breasted Flowerpecker, Red-headed Bullfinch and Dark-breasted Rosefinch. April 9 Early morning we decided to walk again to the area around Sangachoeling Gompa. We added some new species to our list: Bay Woodpecker, Grey Treepie, Pygmy Blue Flycatcher and high in the sky 2 White-throated Needletails. In the afternoon we visited Pemayangtse for the last time. April 10 It took us 5 hours by jeep/taxi to travel to Gangtok. Hotel Tibet nice but expensive. (950 Rp. for a double). In the afternoon we arranged a jeep for a trip to Changu (Tchongo) Lake near the Chinese border through a local travel agency. You need a special permit to visit this area but this can all be arranged easily by an agency. April 11 Day visit to Changu Lake (4300 meter). This turned out to be a major disappointment. First it took a long time to get there thanks to the many landslides and military checkpoints and secondly hundreds of Indian tourists travelled on the same route to this lake. Mostly Bengali’s who had never seen snow. When we arrived at the lake it turned out to be incredibly crowded at one side of the lake and when we walked away from the crowds to go birding further along the lake we were stopped by the military. So we decided to drive down a bit and to walk/bird along a stream we noticed on the way up. During this walk we were lucky to observed a lone Solitary Snipe and both White-breasted and Brown Dipper. But the scenery is breathtaking I have to admit. April 12 All day at Gangtok. Made a deal with a local travel agency (Yak & Yeti Travels) to visit the Yumthang Valley. We would travel by jeep and stay in small lodges in the valley for a total of 4 nights. April 13 Daniëlle got rather sick in the night. (high fever). In the afternoon I visited Rumbak by taxi. April 14 Daniëlle was seriously ill and we had to cancel our trip to the Yumthang Valley. All day in Gangtok April 15 Daniëlle was still weak but able to travel from Gangtok to Kalimpong. We took a nice room in Hotel Himalaya which has a lot of atmosphere and a nice garden. We decided to stay here a couple of days so she could regain her strength. We paid 1400 Rp for a double. April 16 Before dawn I drove with a chartered taxi to Lava (1 hour drive) and arranged with the taxi driver that he would pick me up again late afternoon. Birded all day at Lava, mainly along the road towards Algarah and the jeep trail below Lava. The birding in the area is excellent. Unfortunately, the Indian army had decided to have a major military operation in the region during the time I visited the Lava area. This meant a lot of disturbance by trucks and military camps along the road. Of course I visited the gully/ravine where Blue-fronted Robin has been seen in the past. (just after the 4 km. marker along the road towards Algarah/Kalimpong). I did not find the Robin but had good views of Yellow-throated Fulvetta, Slender-billed and Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler and White-tailed Robin. Other species seen during this day were: Crested Serpent Eagle, Large Hawk Cuckoo, Common and Oriental Cuckoo, Great Barbet, Crimson-breasted Woodpecker, Wryneck, Black, Striated and Himalayan Bulbul, Rufous-capped and Grey-throated Babbler, Rufous-throated and Pygmy Wren Babbler, Scaly, Striated, Chestnut-crowned and Grey-sided Laughingthrush, Red-faced Liocichla, Whiskered Yuhina, Rusty-fronted Barwing, 3 species of Minla, Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch, Rufous Sibia, Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush and Grey-winged Blackbird, Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler, Chestnut-headed Tesia, Rufous-bellied Niltava, Ferruginous, Verditer and Little Pied Flycatcher, Yellow-bellied Fantail, Lemon-rumped, Black-faced, Chestnut-crowned and Golden-spectacled Warbler, Plain Mountain Finch, a female Scarlet Finch, Red-headed Bullfinch and Gold-naped Finch. April 17 Non-birding day. Just some reading in the garden of Hotel Himalaya. Daniëlle felt already a lot better. April 18 I drove with the same taxi driver before dawn to Lava again. He would pick me up the next day at 18.00 p.m. Took a room in a small lodge, next to the Yankee Resort. All morning on the road towards Algarah. Afternoon along the track to the Neora Valley. After 4/5 km. along the track to Neora Valley where the track crosses a small stream I suddenly heard what I thought was a Rusty-bellied Shortwing singing from the bottom of the gully. I waited a few minutes while sitting on a big rock and was rewarded with excellent views of a male Rusty-bellied Shortwing hopping along the moss covered boulders/rocks and scrub in this gully. Later I heard another one, closer towards Lava along the same track. Some other species seen this day were: Blue-winged Laughingthrush, White-browed Shortwing, Large-billed Leaf Warbler, Stripe-throated Yuhina, Grey-headed and Grey-cheeked Warbler, White-browed Bush Robin, Rufous-gorgeted and White-gorgeted Flycatcher, and a beautiful male Scarlet Finch. And of course a lot of species I had seen 2 days before. April 19 Early morning again along the wide track to the Neora Valley. Afternoon the road to Algarah. Late afternoon back to Kalimpong. Some new species today were: Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler, Brown Bullfinch, Golden-spectacled Warbler, Pygmy Blue Flycatcher and White-throated Laughingthrush. April 20 Taxi to Bagdogra airport and flight to New Delhi. Our friend/driver Raj Nagpal was already waiting for us at the airport and the next 2 weeks we would travel with him to Madhya Pradesh/Bandhavgarh NP in search of Tigers and also Nainital to look for species missed in 1991. OUTLINE ITINERARYMarch 7 Flight Bangkok – New Delhi. Arrival in the early evening. March 8 Flight New Delhi – Gauhati. March 9 Gauhati. Visit to the zoo. March 10 Gauhati – Wild Grass Lodge – Kaziranga by bus. March 11 Kaziranga March 12 Kaziranga + Panbari Forest. March 13 Kaziranga March 14 Kaziranga + Panbari Forest. March 15 Wild Grass Lodge/Kaziranga – Nameri Wildlife Camp by chartered taxi. March 16 Nameri Wildlife Camp March 17 Nameri Wildlife Camp March 18 Nameri Wildlife Camp – Gauhati by bus. March 19 Gauhati – Shillong by bus. March 20 Shillong. March 21 Shillong – Cherrapunjee by private car. March 22 Shillong. Morning visit to Mawphlang sacred grove. March 23 Shillong – Gauhati by private car. March 24 Flight Gauhati – Bagdogra. Taxi from Bagdogra airport to Darjeeling. March 25 Darjeeling. . March 26 Darjeeling. Morning visit to Tiger Hill. March 27 Darjeeling. Morning visit to Tiger Hill. March 28 Darjeeling to Sandakphu by 4-wheel drive jeep. Sandakphu. March 29 Sandakphu. March 30 Sandakphu – Kalipokhari. March 31 Kalipokhari – Gairibans. April 1 Gairibans. April 2 Gairibans. April 3 Gairibans – Megma. April 4 Megma – Mene – Darjeeling. April 5 Darjeeling April 6 Darjeeling April 7 Darjeeling – Pemayangtse (Sikkim) by jeep/taxi. April 8 Pemayangtse April 9 Pemayangtse April 10 Pemayangtse - Gangtok April 11 Gangtok . Day visit to Changu (Tchongo) Lake. April 12 Gangtok. April 13 Gangtok. Visit to Rumbak. April 14 Gangtok. April 15 Gangtok – Kalimpong by jeep/taxi. April 16 All day at Lava. by private taxi. April 17 Kalimpong. April 18 Lava. April 19 Lava. April 20 Kalimpong – Bagdogra by private taxi. Flight Bagdogra – New Delhi. SYSTEMATIC LIST OF SPECIES OBSERVED IN NORTHEAST INDIA 8 March - 20 April 1998ASSAM – MEGHALAYA – SIKKIM - NORTHERN WEST BENGALTaxonomy, sequence and nomenclature follow An Annotated Checklist of the Birds of the Oriental Region by T. Inskipp, N. Lindsey and W. Duckworth. (1996). This checklist is almost identical to the one provided in Distribution and Taxonomy of Birds of the World by Sibley & Monroe (1990) Little Grebe On 17 and 18-03 1 ex. Nameri Wildlife Camp. Tachybaptus ruficollis Great Cormorant Observed in small numbers at Nameri Wildlife Camp. Phalacrocorax carbo Little Cormorant Small numbers (10 – 30 exx. ) observed at Kaziranga and Nameri. Phalacrocorax niger Oriental Darter Regularly single birds seen at Kaziranga and Nameri Wildlife Camp. Anhinga melanogaster Spot-billed Pelican 10+ during every visit to Kaziranga. Pelecanus philippensis Grey Heron Single birds observed at Kaziranga and Nameri. Ardea cinerea Purple Heron Single birds seen at Kaziranga and Nameri. Ardea purpurea Indian Pond Heron Observed Ardeola grayii Cattle Egret Observed. Bubulcus ibis Little Egret Daily 10+ observed Kaziranga and Nameri. Egretta garzetta Intermediate Egret Regularly a few (less than 10 daily) observed at Kaziranga Egretta intermedius Great Egret Single birds observed at Kaziranga. Casmerodius albus Asian Openbill Stork On 11-03 20+ at Kaziranga. On 14-03 10+ at Kaziranga. Anastomus oscitans Black Stork On 11-03 4 exx. at Kaziranga. Ciconia nigra On 15-03 1 ex. Nameri Wildlife Camp. Woolly-necked Stork On 11-03 6 exx. at Kaziranga. Ciconia episcopus On 14-03 2 exx. at Kaziranga. Black-necked Stork Ephippiorhynchus On 11-03 3 exx. at Kaziranga. On 14-03 5 exx. at Kaziranga Greater Adjutant On 9-03 50+ exx. outskirts of Gauhati. Leptoptilos dubius On 11-03 2 exx. and on 14-03 2/3 exx. at Kaziranga. Lesser Adjutant On 10-03 2 exx. between Gauhati and Kaziranga. Leptoptilos javanicus On 11-03 10+ and on 14-03 8 exx. Kaziranga. On 16-03 3 exx. Nameri Wildlife Camp. Bar-headed Goose On 14-03 40+ at Kaziranga. Anser indicus Ruddy Shelduck During every visit of Kaziranga 20+ observed Tadorna ferruginea Also regularly seen along the Nameri River, mostly pairs. On 9-03 6 exx. along the Brahmaputra River, Gauhati. Teal On 11-03 4 exx. and on 14-03 20+ at Kaziranga. Anas crecca Spot-billed Duck On 11-03 20+ at Kaziranga. Anas poecilorhyncha Mallard On 14-03 3 exx. at Kaziranga Anas platyrhynchos Gadwall On 11-03 30+ and on 14-03 40+ at Kaziranga. Anas strepera On 17-03 1 male at Nameri. Wigeon At 11 and 14-03 10+ at Kaziranga. Anas penelope Pochard On 11-03 and 14-03 20+ at Kaziranga. Aythya ferina Ferruginous Duck On 11 and 14-03 20+ at Kaziranga. Aythya nyroca Common Merganser On 16-03 2 exx. along the Nameri river, Nameri Wildlife Camp. Mergus merganser Black-shouldered Kite On 14-03 1 ex. Kaziranga (East side) Elanus caeruleus Oriental Honey Buzzard on 15-03 2 exx. Wild Grass Lodge, kaziranga. Pernis ptilorhynchus Black Kite Observed in and around Gauhati, Kohora and near Shillong. Milvus migrans Besra On 28/29-03 2 exx. near Sandakphu. Accipiter virgatus Buzzard Regularly observed during the Sandakphu trek. Buteo buteo Mountain Hawk Eagle On 8-04 1-2 exx. near Pemayangtse. Spizaetus nipalensis Rufous-bellied Eagle On 11-03 1 juv. ex. at Kaziranga. Hieraaetus kienerii Bonelli’s Eagle On 16-03 1 ex. at Nameri. Hieraaetus fasciatus Greater Spotted Eagle On 11-03 1 ex. and on 13/14-03 2/3 exx. at Kaziranga Aquila clanga Steppe Eagle On 14-03 1 ex. at Kaziranga (east side) Aquila nipalensis Black Eagle On 8 and 9-04 1 ex. above Pemayangtse Ictinaetus malayensis Pallas Sea-Eagle On 11-03 8 exx. at Kaziranga. On 13/14-03 2/3 exx. Haliaeetus leucoryphus On 15-03 1 ex. on 16-03 4 exx. and on 17/18-03 2 exx. Nameri Wildlife Camp. Grey-headed Fish Eagle on 11-03 6 exx. and on 14-03 4 exx. at kaziranga. Ichthyophaga ichthyaetus On 17-03 1 ex. at Nameri Wildlife Camp White-backed Vulture Observed at Gauhati, Zoo area on 9-03 Gyps bengalensis Himalayan Griffon On 17-03 1 possibly near Nameri. Gyps himalayensis On 28/29-03 2/3 exx. at Sandakphu. On 3-04 2 exx. Sandakphu trek, Megma. On 8/9-04 5 exx. Pemayangtse. Cinereous Vulture On 28-03 1 ex. at Sandakphu. Aegypius monachus Pied Harrier On 11-03 1 male at Kaziranga. + 1 male near Panbari Forest. Circus melanoleucos On 14-03 1 pair at Kaziranga. Hen Harrier On 11-03 1 male at Kaziranga. Circus cyaneus Short-toed Eagle On 14-03 1 ex. at Kaziranga (East side) Circaetus gallicus Crested Serpent Eagle On 11-03 4 exx. at Kaziranga + 1 ex. at Panbari Forest. Spilornis cheela On 14-03 5 exx. Kaziranga. On 17/18-03 3 exx. Nameri. On 16-04 2 ex. (ad. + juv. ) near Lava. Osprey On 11 and 14-03 2 exx. at Kaziranga. Pandion haliaetus Daily 1-2 exx. at Nameri. Peregrine Falcon On 15-03 seen twice near the Wild Grass Lodge, Kaziranga. Falco peregrinus On 27-03 1 pair above the Mall, Darjeeling. Pied Falconet On 12-03 2 exx. seen at Panbari Forest. 1 perched bird seen in the scoop of Microhierax melanoleucos Paul Holt. Collared Falconet (Red-thighed Falconet) Microhierax caerulescens On 11-03 1 ex. Panbari Forest. On 15-03 excellent and close views of 2 perched birds along the river trail, Nameri. These birds were very vocal. Swamp Partridge During every visit to Kaziranga 4/5 birds seen. More often heard. Francolinus gularis Common Hill Partridge Arborophila torqueola On 31-03+1/2-04 regularly heard along the Sandakphu Trail. Mostly near Gairibans. On 2-04 brief views of a pair near Gairibans. Blood Pheasant On 28-03 very good and close views of 2 males just below Sandakphu. Ithaginis cruentus Satyr Tragopan On 1 and 2-04 twice heard near Gairibans. On 3-04 1 ex. heard between Tragopan satyra Gairibans – Megma (Sandakphu trek, 3 km. from Gairibans). The bird responded to tape playback. I decided to climb down into the bamboo along the steep slope. Eventually I got astonishing views of a displaying male at less than 10 meters. Kalij Pheasant On 11-03 2 exx. and on 14-03 6 exx. at Kaziranga. Lophura leucomelanos Red Junglefowl Observed at Kaziranga. Panbari Forest and Nameri Wildlife Reserve. Gallus gallus Grey Peacock Pheasant On 11-03 4/5 exx. heard at Panbari Forest. Polyplectron bicalcaratum Yellow-legged Button Quail On 11-03 1 ex. seen at Kaziranga. Turnix tanki Ruddy-breasted Crake On 13-03 1 ex. Kaziranga. Porzana fusca White-breasted Waterhen Observed at Kaziranga. Amaurornis phoenicurus Common Gallinule Observed at Kaziranga and on 17/18-03 a few at Nameri Wildlife Camp. Gallinula chloropus Grey-headed Swamphen Observed at Kaziranga. Porphyrio poliocephalus Bengal Florican On 13-03 2 males east side of Kaziranga. Houbaropsis (Eupodotis) bengalensis On 14-03 4 males displaying east side of Kaziranga. Pheasant-tailed Jacana a few observed at kaziranga. Hydrophasianus chirurgus Bronze-winged Jacana Observed at Kaziranga. Metopidius indicus Ibisbill On 16-03 excellent views of 1 ex. on the Nameri river, Nameri Wildlife Camp. Ibidorhyncha struthersii Great Thick-knee On 16-03 1 ex. along the Nameri river, Nameri Wildlife Camp. Esacus recurvirostris Small Pratincole Up to 30 exx. along the Nameri River, Nameri Wildlife Camp. Glareola lactea Little Ringed Plover On 13 and 14-03 1-2 exx. at Kaziranga. Charadrius dubius On 16-03 1 ex. along the Nameri River. River Lapwing On 16/17/18-03 10+ along the Nameri River. Vanellus duvaucelii Grey-headed Lapwing On 11-03 2 exx. at Kaziranga. Vanellus cinereus Red-wattled Lapwing Observed. Vanellus indicus Temminck’s Stint On 11-03 3-4 exx. at Kaziranga. Calidris temminckii On 13 and 14-03 1 and 2 exx. at Kaziranga. Common Snipe On 11-03 4 exx. Kaziranga. Gallinago gallinago Solitary Snipe On 11-04 excellent and close views of 1 ex. in the snow just below Gallinago solitaria Changu Lake, Sikkim. Spotted Redshank On 14-03 2 exx. at Kaziranga. Tringa erythropus Greenshank Small numbers in Kaziranga and Nameri. Tringa nebularia Green Sandpiper On 16-03 1 ex. and on 17/18-03 3 exx. at Nameri. Tringa ochropus Common Sandpiper 2/3 exx. daily at Nameri. Actitis hypoleucos Brown-headed Gull On 16 and 18-03 5 exx. Nameri River. Larus brunnicephalus (Indian) River Tern 10+ at Kaziranga and Nameri River. Sterna aurantia Yellow-footed Green Pigeon On 12-03 3 exx. Panbari Forest. On 14-03 2 exx. in Panbari Forest. Treron phoenicoptera On 14-03 a few seen at Kaziranga. Pin-tailed Green Pigeon On 15/16/17 and 18-03 50+ in a fruiting tree along the river trail, Nameri. Treron apicauda Pompadour Green Pigeon On 11-03 observed at Kaziranga. Treron pompadora On 15 and 17-03 3-4 exx. in Nameri. Green Imperial Pigeon Observed Kaziranga, Panbari Forest and Nameri Wildlife Reserve. Columba aenea Barred Cuckoo Dove On 16-03 8 exx. and on 17-03 10+ along the river trail, Nameri. Macropygia unchall Oriental Turtle Dove Observed Kaziranga, Nameri. A few during the Sandakphu Trek (lower down) Streptopelia orientalis Also a few near Lava. Eurasian Collared Dove (Indian Ring Dove) On 14-03 1 ex. east side of Kaziranga. Streptopelia decaocto Spotted Dove Observed Gauhati, Kaziranga, Panbari Forest, Nameri Streptopelia chinensis Emerald Dove On 12-03 heard at Panbari forest. Chalcophaps indica On 17-03 1 ex. Nameri. Alexandrine Parakeet On 11 and 14-03 a few observed at Kaziranga. Psittacula eupatria Ring-necked Parakeet Observed in Assam. Psittacula krameri Red-breasted Parakeet Commonly observed at Kaziranga and Nameri. Psittacula alexandri Large Hawk Cuckoo On 18-03 1 ex. seen at Nameri Wildlife Camp. Hierococcyx sparverioides On 9-04 1 ex. Pemayangtse. Commonly heard at Lava. Common Hawk Cuckoo On 20 and 21-03 1 ex. near Shillong. Hierococcyx varius On 7-04 1 ex. heard and seen at Pemayangtse Indian Cuckoo On 8-04 2 exx. heard near Pemayangtse. Cuculus micropterus Common Cuckoo On 7-04 1 ex. calling Darjeeling. Cuculus canorus On 8-04 2 exx. Pemayangtse. On 9-04 1 ex. Pemayangtse. Commonly heard at Lava. Oriental Cuckoo On 8-04 2 heard and seen at Pemayangtse. On 9-04 1 ex. Pemayangtse. Cuculus saturatus Several heard at Lava. Banded Bay Cuckoo On 11-03 2 exx. at Panbari Forest Cacomantis sonneratii Asian Koël Seen and more often heard at Nameri Wildlife Camp. Eudynamys scolopacea Green-billed Malkoha On 16-03 2 exx. at Nameri Wildlife Camp. Phaenicophaeus tristis Greater Coucal Observed at Kaziranga, Panbari and Nameri. Centropus sinensis Lesser Coucal On 10-03 1 ex. near Wild Grass Lodge. Centropus bengalensis Tawny Fish Owl On 12-03 1 ex. flew over a riverine track at Kaziranga. Ketupa flavipes Collared Owlet On 31-03 and 2-04 heard near Gairibans, Sandakphu trek. Glaucidium brodiei Jungle Owlet On 9-03 1 ex. Gauhati. Glaucidium radiatum On 17 and 18-03 1 ex. at Nameri. Asian Barred Owlet On 12-03 2 exx. Panbari Forest. Glaucidium cuculoidesOn 18-03 1 ex. Nameri. Brown Hawk Owl On 16 and 17-04 1 ex. in the garden of hotel, Kalimpong. Ninox scutulata Himalayan Swiftlet Commonly seen at Pemayangtse. Collocalia brevirostris Brown-backed Needletail on 12-03 3 exx. over panbari forest. Hirundapus giganteus White-throated Needletail On 9-04 2 exx. at Pemayangtse. Hirundapus caudacutus Asian Palm Swift Observed around Gauhati and on transit in Assam. Cypsiurus balasiensis House Swift Observed. Apus affinis Dark-rumped Swift (Khasi-Swift) On 21-04 observed at the cliffs just outside Cherrapunjee. Apus acuticauda Also single birds at some viewpoints nearby Cherrapunjee. Crested Kingfisher On 17-03 1 ex. Nameri. Megaceryle lugubris Pied Kingfisher Observed at Kaziranga, Nameri Ceryle rudis Common Kingfisher On 16 and 18-03 2 exx. Nameri. Alcedo atthis White-throated Kingfisher Observed at Gauhati, Kaziranga, Nameri, Halcyon smyrnensis Chestnut-headed Bee-eater On 10-03 10+ near the Wild Grass Lodge. On 14-03 observed at Kaziranga. Merops leschenaultii Daily observed at Nameri. Green Bee-eater Observed at Kaziranga. Merops orientalis Blue-bearded Bee-eater On 12-03 2 exx. at Panbari Forest. Nyctyornis athertoni Daily 1-3 exx. observed at Nameri. Dollarbird On 15-03 1 ex. and on 16/17 and 18-03 2 exx. at Nameri. Eurystomus orientalis Indian Roller Observed at Kaziranga, Nameri and on transit in Assam. Coracias benghalensis Hoopoe Observed at Kaziranga, Nameri. Upupa epops On 2-04 1 ex. near Megma, Sandakphu Trek. Oriental Pied Hornbill On 11-03 4 exx. at Kaziranga. On 12 and 24-03 10+ at Kaziranga. Anthracoceros albirostris On 17 and 18-03 2 exx. at Nameri. Wreathed Hornbill 20+ daily at Nameri Wildlife Camp. Aceros undulatus Great Pied Hornbill On 12-03 3 exx. and on 14-03 5 exx. at Kaziranga. Buceros bicornis Great Barbet (Great Hill Barbet) Common at Pemayangtse and Lava. Megalaima virens Lineated Barbet Observed 9-03 at Gauhati (2 exx. ). Observed at Kaziranga, Nameri Megalaima lineatus Golden-throated Barbet A few seen in Shillong area and Mawphlang. More often heard. Megalaima franklinii Blue-throated Barbet Observed at Gauhati. Observed at Kaziranga, Nameri. Megalaima asiatica Blue-eared Barbet On 12-03 1 ex. Panbari Forest. Megalaima australis On 14-03 1 ex. Kaziranga. Coppersmith Barbet Heard at Kaziranga, Panbari Forest and Nameri. Megalaima haemacephala on 11-03 1 ex. seen at kaziranga. Wryneck On 16-04 1 ex. at Lava. Jynx torquilla Rufous Woodpecker On 12-03 1 ex. at Panbari Forest. Celeus brachyurus On 17/18-03 3 exx. at Nameri Lesser Yellownape On 8-04 1 ex. at Pemayangtse Picus chlorolophus Greater Yellownape On 16-03 1 ex. and on 17/18-03 2 exx. at Nameri. Picus flavinucha Grey-headed Woodpecker On 10-03 1 m. near the Wild Grass Lodge. Picus canus On 8-04 1 ex. Pemayangtse. Streak-throated Woodpecker On 12 and 14-03 2-3 exx. at Kaziranga. Picus xanthopygaeus Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker On 12-03 2 exx. Kaziranga. Dendrocopos macei Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker On 10-03 1 m. near the Wild Grass Lodge. Dendrocopos canicapillus On 14-03 1 ex. Kaziranga. Crimson-breasted Woodpecker Near Gairibans (Sandakphu Trek ) at least 2 exx. seen. Dendrocopos cathpharius On 16-04 2 exx. at Lava. On 17-02 2 exx. at Kalimpong. Darjeeling Pied Woodpecker Near Gairibans (Sandakphu Trek) at least 4 exx. observed. Dendrocopos darjellensis Rufous-bellied Woodpecker On 29-03 1 male at Sandakphu. Dendrocopos hyperythrus Black-rumped Flameback On 11, 12 and 14-03 5+ exx. Kaziranga. Dinopium benghalense Himalayan Flameback On 17/18-03 2 exx. at Nameri. Dinopium shorii Greater Flameback On 13-03 1 ex. near the Wild Grass Lodge. Chrysocolaptes lucidus On 14-03 2 exx. Kaziranga. On 17/18-03 a few at Nameri. Bay Woodpecker On 9-04 1 male at Pemayangtse. Blythipicus pyrrhotis Bengal Bushlark On 16-03 1 ex. singing at Nameri. Mirafra assamica Sand Lark On 17 and 18-03 2 exx. along the Nameri River. Calandrella raytal Plain Martin On 14-03 observed at Kaziranga. Daily observed at Nameri. Riparia paludicola Barn Swallow Regularly observed at Kaziranga. Hirundo rustica On 18-04 a few at Lava. Red-rumped Swallow On 7-04 10+ at Pemayangtse. Hirundo daurica Nepal House Martin A few exx. near Gairibans, Sandakphu Trek on 31-03 and 2-04. Delichon nipalensis Ashy Wood Swallow On 11-03 a few seen at Kaziranga. Artamus fuscus Olive-backed Pipit On 14-03 3 exx. at Kaziranga. On 17/18-03 a few at Nameri. Anthus hodgsoni on 27-03 2 exx. at tiger hill, darjeeling. Observed on the Sandakphu Trek. On 8/9-04 a few near Pemayangtse. Rosy Pipit On 11 and 12-03 4+ at Kaziranga. On 17/18-03 2 at Nameri. Anthus roseatus On 27-03 10+ at Tiger Hill, Darjeeling. Observed on the Sandakphu Trek. Paddyfield Pipit Common at Kaziranga and Nameri. Anthus rufulus Citrine Wagtail Observed at Kaziranga and Nameri. Motacilla citreola Grey Wagtail On 18-03 1 ex. at Nameri. Motacilla cinerea On 18-04 1 ex. near Lava. White Wagtail Observed at Kaziranga and Nameri. Motacilla alba ssp. alboides Large Woodshrike On 12 and 14-03 a few observed at Panbari Forest and Kaziranga. Tephrodornis gularis A few at Nameri. Black-winged Cuckoo Shrike On 15-03 1 ex. at Nameri. Coracina melaschistos Large Cuckoo Shrike On 12-03 a few observed at Panbari Forest. On 13-03 2 exx. near Coracina macei Wild Grass Lodge. On 14-03 common at Panbari/Kaziranga. A few Nameri. Scarlet Minivet On 12-03 10+ Panbari Forest/Kaziranga. Also seen on 14-03. Pericrocotus flammeus Common at Nameri. Long-tailed Minivet On 31-03, 1 and 2-04 observed in the Gairibans area, Sandakphu Trek Pericrocotus ethologus On 8-04 a few near Pemayangtse. Short-billed Minivet On 12-03 1ex. Panbari Forest/Kaziranga. Pericrocotus brevirostris On 21 and 22-03 observed in the Shillong area. On 31-03, 1 and 2-04 observed near Gairibans, Sandakphu Trek. On 16, 18 and 19-04 observed around Lava. Grey-chinned Minivet On 21 and 22-03 observed in the Shillong area. Pericrocotus solaris On 8-04 observed near Pemayangtse. Striated Bulbul On 7-04 4/5 exx. at Pemayangtse. Pycnonotus striatus On 16-04 2 exx. near Lava. Black-crested Bulbul On 12-03 a few at Panbari Forest/Kaziranga. On 13-03 a few in Pycnonotus melanicterus scrub near the Wild Grass Lodge. Daily seen at Nameri. Red-whiskered Bulbul Observed Kaziranga, Nameri Pycnonotus jocosus Himalayan Bulbul Observed on 16 and 18-04 near Lava. Pycnonotus leucogenys Red-vented Bulbul Observed Kaziranga, Nameri Pycnonotus cafer White-throated Bulbul 4/5 exx. daily in the scrub around the Wild Grass Lodge. Alophoixus (Criniger) flaveolus On 12 and 14-03 a few at the edge of Panbari Forest. A few seen daily at Nameri. Mountain Bulbul Daily seen in the Shillong area. Hypsipetes mcclellandii On 18-04 a few observed near Lava. Ashy Bulbul On 12-03 a few at Panbari Forest. On 13-03 a few at scrub near Hemixos (Hypsipetes) flavala the lodge. Black Bulbul On 25-03 2 exx. at Darjeeling. On 26-03 a few at Tiger Hill. Hypsipetes leucocephalus Observed on 16 and 18-04 around Lava. Common Iora On 12-03 2 exx. edge of Panbari Forest. On 14-03 observed at Kaziranga. Aegithina tiphia Regularly observed at Nameri. Golden-fronted LeafbirdOn 12-03 3 exx. Panbari Forest. On 14-03 2 exx. Kaziranga. Chloropsis aurifrons On 16-03 2 exx. and on 17/18 4/5 exx. at Nameri. Orange-bellied Leafbird on 14-03 2 exx. at panbari forest. Chloropsis hardwickii Asian Fairy Bluebird Single birds seen at Kaziranga, Panbari Forest and Nameri. Irena puella Brown Dipper On 11-04 1 ex. along stream just below Changu Lake. Cinclus pallasii White-breasted DipperOn 11-04 1 ex. 100 m. from the site of the Brown Dipper. Cinclus cinclus Maroon-backed Accentor on 26-03 2 exx. and on 27-03 20+ at tiger hill. Prunella immaculata Rufous-breasted Accentor On 27-03 6/7 exx. Tiger Hill. Prunella strophiata On 28-03 1 ex. Sandakphu. Alpine Accentor On 11-04 1 ex. at Changu Lake. Prunella collaris White-browed Shortwing on 22-03 2 males at mawphlang. Brachypteryx montana On 18 and 19-04 3 males heard and seen near Lava. Lesser Shortwing On 12-03 2 birds heard singing and 1 ex. briefly seen at Panbari Forest. Brachypteryx leucophrys Rusty-bellied Shortwing On 18 and 19-04 1 male heard and seen near Lava. On 19-04 another one Brachypteryx hyperythra heard singing along the same trail. Siberian Rubythroat On 10-03 1 male and on 13-02 2 fem. in the scrub near the Wild Grass Lodge. Luscinia calliope On 18-03 1 male at Nameri. Bluethroat Single birds seen at Kaziranga on 13 and 14-03. Luscinia svecica Orange-flanked Bush Robin (Red-flanked Bluetail) On 26-03 2 exx. and on 27-03 3 exx. Tiger Hill. Tarsiger (Erithacus) cyanurus On 31-03, 1 and 2-04 10+ at Gairibans, Sandakphu Trek. On 9-04 2 exx. at Pemayangtse. Golden Bush-Robin On 21-03 2 males near Shillong. On 27-03 1 fem. at Tiger Hill. Tarsiger (Erithacus) chrysaeus White-browed Bush-Robin On 28/29-03 3 males at Sandakphu. On 1-04 1 ex. Gairibans, Sandakphu Trek. Tarsiger (Erithacus) indicus Oriental Magpie Robin observed at wild grass lodge, edges of panbari forest and nameri w. camp. Copsychus saularis White-rumped Shama On 13 and 14-03 2/3 exx. at Panbari Forest. Copsychus malabaricus Black Redstart On 8-04 1 m. at Pemayangtse. Phoenicurus ochruros Blue-fronted Redstart On 26-03 2 m. + 1 fem. at Tiger Hill. On 27-03 1 m. + 1 fem. Tiger Hill. Phoenicurus frontalis On 28/29-03 10+ at Sandakphu. On 31-03 and 1-04 a few at Gairibans. On 8-04 2 exx. at Pemayangtse. Daurian Redstart On 15-03 2 males and at 16/17-03 1 male at Nameri. Phoenicurus auroreus On 22-03 1 ex. Mawphlang. White-capped Water Redstart On 20 and 21-03 1 ex. along stream near Shillong. Chaimarrornis leucocephalus 2 exx. present along stream near Gairibans, Sandakphu Trek. On 11-04 3 exx. along stream just below Tsjongo Lake. Plumbeous Water Redstart On 11-04 regularly seen along stream just below Changu Lake. Rhyacornis fuliginosus White-tailed Robin On 8-04 3m. seen at Pemayangtse. More heard. Myiomela (Cinclidium) leucura On 18 and 19-04 3 m. + 1 fem. Seen at Lava. More heard. Asian Stonechat 2/3 exx. daily along the entrance road of Nameri Wildlife Camp. Saxicola maura Single birds seen at Kaziranga. Pied Bushchat A single observation near Gauhati on 10-03. Saxicola caprata Grey Bushchat On 16-03 1 ex. along the entrance road of Nameri Wildlife Camp. Saxicola ferrea On 25-03 2 exx. Darjeeling. On 16-04 2 exx. near Lava. Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush 2/3 exx. singing near Gairibans, Sandakphu Trek. Monticola rufiventris On 16-04 3 males and 1 fem. at Lava. Blue Whistling Thrush Observed Kaziranga, Panbari Forest, Nameri, Tiger Hill, Pemayangtse, Myophonus solitarius and near Lava. Blue Rock Thrush On 16-03 1 male near the Nameri River. Monticola solitarius Plain-backed (Ground) Thrush On 27-03 3 exx. at Tiger Hill. On 28/29-03 2/3 exx. at Sandakphu. Zoothera mollissima Scaly Thrush On 22-03 1 ex. at Mawphlang. Zoothera dauma Long-billed Thrush On 22-03 1 ex. at Mawphlang. Zoothera monticola Orange-headed (Ground) Thrush On 12 and 14-03 1 ex. Panbari Forest. Zoothera citrina On 17-03 1 ex. at Nameri. (River Trail). Black-breasted Thrush On 16-03 1 male and on 17-03 1 pair along the river trail at Nameri. Turdus dissimilis Tickell’s Thrush On 7-04 1 male at Pemayangtse. Turdus unicolor White-collared Blackbird on 27-03 2 exx. at tiger hill. on 28/29-03 4 exx. at sandakphu. Turdus albocinctus On 1 and 2-04 6+ at Gairibans. Grey-winged Blackbird On 12-03 1 pair at Panbari Forest. Up to 10 exx. daily at Pemayangtse. Turdus boulboul On 16-04 1 pair at Lava. On 18-04 3 exx. Lava. Little Forktail On 1-04 2 exx. and on 2-04 1 ex. along stream near Gairibans, Sandakphu Trek Enicurus scouleri Black-backed Forktail On 13-03 along stream in scrubby area near Wild Grass Lodge 3 exx. Enicurus immaculatus Spotted Forktail Several times seen along streams in Darjeeling. Enicurus maculatus Chestnut-headed Tesia commonly heard at tiger hill. 3 exx. seen very well. Tesia castaneocoronata Heard at Lava and on 18-04 2 exx. seen. Slaty-bellied Tesia On 12-03 1 ex. heard singing. Tesia olivea Grey-bellied Tesia On 12-03 excellent views of 2 exx. and more heard at Panbari Forest. Tesia cyaniventer On 14-03 more birds heard at Panbari Forest. On 17-03 2 exx. at Nameri. On 18-04 2 exx. seen at Lava. Pale-footed Bush Warbler On 22-03 1 ex. at Mawphlang. Cettia pallidipes Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler (Strong-footed Bush Warbler) Cettia fortipes On 7-04 2 exx and up to 4 exx. on 8 and 9-04 at Pemayangtse. Daily observed at Lava. Aberrant Bush Warbler On 26-03 2 exx. and on 27-03 4 exx. at Tiger Hill, Darjeeling. Cettia flavolivacea Yellow-bellied Bush Warbler On 27-03 2/3 exx. heard and 1 seen well at Tiger Hill. Cettia diphone Grey-sided Bush Warbler (Rufous-capped Bush Warbler) Cettia brunnifrons On 2-04 1 ex. at Gairibans. On 8-04 1 ex. at Pemayangtse. Plain Prinia Observed at Kaziranga and Nameri. Prinia inornata Yellow-bellied Prinia Observed at Kaziranga. Prinia flaviventris Striated Grassbird (Striated Marsh Warbler) Common at Kaziranga. Megalurus palustris Thick-billed Warbler On 14-03 2 exx. at Panbari Forest. Acrocephalus aedon Paddyfield Warbler On 15-03 1 ex. at Nameri. Acrocephalus agricola Common Tailorbird Observed Kaziranga, Orthotomus sutorius Dark-necked Tailorbird On 15-03 2 exx. Nameri Orthotomus atrogularis Golden-spectacled Warbler (Black-browed Flycatcher Warbler) Seicercus burkii On 12-03 4 exx. at Panbari Forest. On 26-03 4 exx. at Tiger Hill. On 9-04 3 exx. at Pemayangtse. On 16 and 18-04 common at Lava. Chestnut-crowned Warbler (Chestnut-headed Flycatcher Warbler) Seicercus castaniceps On 12-03 1 ex. at Panbari Forest. On 22-03 2-3 exx. Mawphlang. On 16-4 a few near Lava. On 8-04 3 exx. at Pemayangtse. Grey-cheeked Warbler (Grey-cheeked Flycatcher Warbler) Seicercus poliogenys) On 18-04 2 exx. near Lava. White-spectacled Warbler (Allied Flycatcher Warbler) Seicercus affinis On 18-04 1 ex. near Lava. Grey-hooded Warbler (Grey-headed Flycatcher Warbler) Seicercus xanthoschistos On 22-03 several at Mawphlang. On 8 and 9-04 6 exx. at Pemayangtse. On 18-04 3 exx. at Lava. Black-faced Warbler (Black-faced Flycatcher Warbler) Abroscopus schisticeps On 16 and 18-04 2-6 exx. at Lava. Blyth’s Leaf Warbler On 12-03 several at Panbari Forest. Daily observed at Nameri. Phylloscopus reguloides Observed near Shillong and Mawphlang. A few at Gairibans. On 8-04 a few at Pemayangtse. Greenish Warbler On 12-03 1 ex. at Panbari Forest. Phylloscopus trochiloides Observed near Shillong and Mawphlang. Large-billed Leaf Warbler On 18-04 2 exx. identified at Lava. Phylloscopus magnirostris Buff-barred Warbler (Orange-barred Leaf Warbler) Phylloscopus pulcher Common Tiger Hill. Common at Gairibans, Sandakphu. Ashy-throated Warbler On 26-03 2 exx. at Tiger Hill. Common at Gairibans, Sandakphu Trek Phylloscopus maculipennis On 8-04 at Pemayangtse. A few at Mawphlang. Lemon-rumped Warbler On 21-03 2 exx. above Shillong. On 22-03 2-3 exx. at Mawphlang. Phylloscopus chloronotus On 27-03 a few at Tiger Hill. A few at Gairibans. On 9-04 observed at Pemayangtse. On 16 and 18-04 a few at Lava. Yellow-browed Warbler Several at Panbari Forest. Observed at Mawphlang and Pemayangtse. Phylloscopus inornatus On 18-04 a few near Lava. Yellow-vented Warbler on 12-03 1 ex. identified at panbari forest. rare. Phylloscopus cantator Dusky Warbler On 10-03 1 ex. near Wild Grass Lodge. On 12-03 2 exx. Panbari. Phylloscopus fuscatus Tickell’s Warbler On 10-03 4+ near Wild Grass Lodge. Phylloscopus affinis Small Niltava On 14-03 1 ex. at Panbari Forest. On 16-03 1 ex. at Nameri. Niltava macgrigoriae Large Niltava On 22-03 2 exx. at Mawphlang. Niltava grandis Rufous-bellied Niltava On 22-03 1 exx. at Mawphlang. On 8 and 9-04 1-2 exx. Niltava sundara Pemayangtse. Observed at Lava. Pale-chinned Flycatcher (Brooks’s Flycatcher) Cyornis (Muscicapa) poliogenys On 12-03 2 m. and on 14-03 3 exx. at Panbari Forest Blue-throated Flycatcher On 22-03 a few seen at Mawphlang. Cyornis (Muscicapa) rubeculoides Pale Blue Flycatcher On 1-04 1 ex. at Gairibans. Cyornis (Muscicapa) unicolor Pygmy Blue Flycatcher on 9-04 1 singing male seen at pemayangtse. Muscicapella hodgsoni On 19-04 2 males at Lava. Verditer Flycatcher On 12-03 1 m. at Panbari Forest. On 22-03 observed at Mawphlang Eumyias (Muscicapa) thalassina 6+ observed at Gairibans. Common at Pemayangtse. Also observed at Lava. Ferruginous Flycatcher On 16-04 3 exx. at Lava. On 18-04 4 exx. at Lava. Muscicapa ferruginea Sapphire Flycatcher On 22-03 1 ex. at Mawphlang. On 9-04 1 fem. at Pemayangtse. Ficedula (Muscicapa) sapphira Little Pied Flycatcher on 14-03 1 ex. panbari forest. on 8-04 2 exx. at pemayangtse. Ficedula (Muscicapa) westermanni On 16-04 2 exx. at Lava. Snowy-browed Flycatcher Several at Mawphlang on 22-03. On 8-04 2 males at Pemayangtse. Ficedula (Muscicapa) hyperythra Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher On 31-03, 1 and 2-04 6-7 exx. near Gairibans. Ficedula (Muscicapa) strophiata On 18-04 a few at Lava. White-gorgeted Flycatcher On 18-04 1 pair at Lava. Ficedula (Muscicapa) monileger Red-throated Flycatcher Observed at Kaziranga, Panbari Forest. Ficedula (Muscicapa) parva Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher On 7-04 2 exx. at Pemayangtse. Culicicapa ceylonensis Several seen at lava. Yellow-bellied Fantail on 26-03 1 ex. and on 27-03 4 exx. at tiger hill. Rhipidura hypoxantha Seen near Gairibans. Observed near Lava. White-throated Fantail On 17/18-03 2 exx. at Nameri. Rhipidura albicollis Observed at Pemayangtse and Lava. Black-naped Monarch On 12-03 1 ex. at Panbari Forest. Hypothymis azurea On 14-03 1 ex. at Kaziranga. Asian Paradise Flycatcher On 12-03 1 ex. at Panbari Forest. Terpsiphone paradisi On 14-03 2 exx. at Kaziranga. Puff-throated Babbler (Spotted Babbler) On 10 and 13-03 2 exx. at scrub near the Wild Grass Lodge. Pellorneum ruficeps On 12 and 14-03 several at Panbari Forest. On 15-03 3 exx. at Nameri. Abbott’s Babbler On 12-03 1 ex. at Panbari Forest. Malacocincla (Trichastoma) abbotti Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-Babbler On 18-04 2 exx. near Lava. Pomatorhinus erythrogenys White-browed Scimitar-Babbler On 13-03 1 ex. at scrub near the Wild Grass Lodge. Pomatorhinus schisticeps On 22-03 1 ex. at Mawphlang. Streak-breasted Scimitar-Babbler On 31-03 and 1-04 excellent views of a pair near Gairibans. Pomatorhinus ruficollis on 8-04 3 exx. at pemayangtse. on 16-04 2 exx. below lava, ravine. On 18 and 19-04 2 exx. near Lava. Slender-billed Scimitar-Babbler On 26/27-03 heard and on 26-03 3 exx. seen at Tiger Hill. Excellent. Xiphirhynchus superciliaris Heard a few times at Gairibans. On 16-04 1 ex. below Lava, Ravine. On 18-04 heard twice near Lava. Scaly-breasted Wren-Babbler On 26-03 1 ex. heard and seen at Tiger Hill. Pnoepyga albiventer On 1-04 1 ex. at Gairibans seen and heard well. Pygmy Wren-Babbler On 16-04 3-4 exx. heard and 2 seen at Lava. Pnoepyga pusilla Rufous-throated Wren-Babbler (Tailed Wren Babbler) Spelaeornis caudatus On 16-04 1 ex. at Lava. Rufous-fronted Babbler On 13-03 2-3 exx. Wild Grass Lodge, scrub. Stachyris rufifrons Rufous-capped Babbler (Red-headed Babbler) Stachyris ruficeps On 26 and 27-03 6-7 exx. at Tiger Hill. On 31-03 and 1+2-04 at Gairibans. On 7 and 9-04 3-4 exx. at Pemayangtse. Common at Lava. Black-chinned Babbler (Red-billed Babbler) On 8 and 9-04 a few at Pemayangtse Stachyris pyrrhops Golden Babbler On 14-03 1 ex. at Panbari Forest. Stachyris chrysaea On 18-04 2 exx. at Lava. Grey-throated Babbler (Black-throated Babbler) On 10-03 2 exx. Wild Grass Lodge. On 16-04 3 exx. at Lava. Stachyris nigriceps Striped Tit-Babbler (Yellow-breasted Babbler) On 12 and 14-03 common at Panbari Forest. Macronous gularis Chestnut-capped Babbler (Red-capped Babbler) On 12-03 2 exx. at Kaziranga. Timalia pileata Yellow-eyed Babbler On 14-03 1 ex. Kaziranga. Chrysomma sinense Brown Parrotbill On 2-04 5 exx. just below Megma, Sandakphu Trek. Paradoxornis unicolor Black-throated Parrotbill On 26 and 27-03 30/40 exx. at Tiger Hill. Paradoxornis nipalensis Common around Gairibans. Striated Babbler On 14-03 a small flock east side of Kaziranga. Turdoides earlei White-throated Laughingthrush On 19-04 8-10 exx. near Lava. Garrulax albogularis White-crested Laughingthrush On 10 and 13-03 4/7 exx. scrub near the Wild Grass Lodge. Garrulax leucolophus Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush On 13-03 2 exx. in the scrub near the Wild Grass Lodge. Garrulax monileger Greater Necklaced Laughingthrush On 10 and 13-03 4-6 exx. scrub near the Wild Grass Lodge. Garrulax pectoralis On 9-04 2 exx. at Pemayangtse. Striated Laughingthrush On 8-04 10+ at Pemayangtse. On 9-04 3 exx. at Pemayangtse. Garrulax striatus On 16-04 2 exx. at Lava. Spotted Laughingthrush on 29-03 2 exx. near sandakphu. Garrulax ocellatus On 1-04 2 exx. and on 2-04 4 exx. near Gairibans. Grey-sided Laughingthrush On 8-04 5 exx. at Pemayangtse. On 9-04 7 exx. at Pemayangtse. Garrulax caerulatus On 16-04 2 exx. at Lava. Rufous-necked Laughingthrush Up to 8 exx. in the tea garden and scrub near the Wild Grass Lodge. Garrulax ruficollis Blue-winged Laughingthrush On 18-04 2 exx. near Lava. Garrulax squamatus Scaly Laughingthrush (Plain Laughingthrush) On 26-03 1 ex. seen at Tiger Hill Garrulax subunicolor On 28-03 2 exx. at Sandakphu. On 16-04 4/5 exx. at Lava. Black-faced Laughingthrush Common at Sandakphu and near Gairibans. Garrulax affinis Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush On 26-03 10+ and on 27-03 15+ at Tiger Hill. Garrulax erythrocephalus On 8-04 6 exx. at Pemayangtse. Common around Lava. Red-faced Liocichla On 16-04 1 ex. near Lava. Liocichla (Garrulax) phoenicea Red-billed Leiothrix Common in scrubby gullies in Darjeeling Leiothrix lutea On 26/27-03 2-6 exx. at Tiger Hill. On 8-04 10+ at Pemayangtse. On 9-04 2 exx. at Pemayangtse. Cutia On 8-04 1 m. + 2 fem. At Pemayangtse. Excellent, lengthy views. Cutia nipalensis White-browed Shrike-Babbler On 8-04 1m. + 2 fem. at Pemayangtse. Pteruthius flaviscapis Green Shrike-Babbler On 2-04 2 exx. just below Megma, Sandakphu Trek. Pteruthius xanthochlorus Rusty-fronted Barwing (Spectacled Barwing) Up to 10 exx. daily at Pemayangtse. Actinodura egertoni Common around Lava. Hoary-throated Barwing (Hoary Barwing) 6-8 exx. daily in the Gairibans area. Actinodura nipalensis On 8-04 4 exx. at Pemayangtse. Blue-winged Minla Daily up to 6 exx. at Pemayangtse. Minla cyanouroptera Daily observed at Lava. Chestnut-tailed Minla On 8 and 9-04 10+ at Pemayangtse. Minla strigula Daily observed at Lava. Red-tailed Minla On 8-04 2 exx. at Pemayangtse. Minla ignotincta Daily observed at Lava. Golden-breasted Fulvetta On 26-03 3 exx. and on 27-03 4 exx. at Tiger Hill. Alcippe chrysotis Yellow-throated Fulvetta On 16 and 18-04 10-15 exx. at Lava, The Ravine area. Alcippe cinerea Rufous-winged Fulvetta on 26-03 1 ex. and on 27-03 7/8 exx. at tiger hill. Alcippe castaneceps Observed at Gairibans. On 9-04 2 exx. at Pemayangtse. Observed at Lava. White-browed Fulvetta On 26-03 10+ and on 27-03 5 exx. at Tiger Hill. Alcippe vinipectus On 28/29-03 10+ at Sandakphu. Common at Gairibans. On 8-04 3 exx. at Pemayangtse Nepal Fulvetta 2 exx. at Mawphlang. Alcippe nipalensis Rufous Sibia (Black-capped Sibia) Common at Darjeeling, Tiger Hill, Pemayangtse Heterophasia capistrata Grey Sibia On 22-03 3 exx. at Mawphlang. Heterophasia gracilis Whiskered Yuhina (Yellow-naped Yuhina) Common at Gairibans, Pemayangtse and Lava. Yuhina flavicollis White-naped Yuhina On 22-03 2 exx. at Darjeeling. Yuhina bakeri Stripe-throated Yuhina Common at Tiger Hill and at Gairibans. Yuhina gularis On 18 and 19-04 5-6 exx. at Lava. Rufous-vented Yuhina 10+ at Gairibans. Yuhina occipitalis Rufous-fronted Tit (Black-browed Tit) On 31-03, 1 and 2-04 up to 15 exx. at Gairibans. Aegithalos iouschistos Black-throated Tit ( Red-headed Tit) On 26-03 6 exx. and 27-03 3 exx. at Tiger Hill. Aegithalos concinnus On 8/9-04 up to 10 exx. daily at Pemayangtse. Daily observed at Lava. Yellow-browed Tit Commonly seen at Gairibans. Sylviparus modestus A few daily at Lava. Great Tit (Grey Tit) Observed at Panbari Forest. Parus major Green-backed Tit On 25-03 6 exx. at Darjeeling. On 26-03 3 exx. at Tiger Hill. Parus monticolus On 31-03 and 1-04 4 exx. at Gairibans. A few daily at Pemayangtse. Daily observed at Lava. Yellow-cheeked Tit (Black-spotted Yellow Tit) On 20-03 2 exx. near Shillong. Parus spilonotus Black-lored Tit (Yellow-cheeked Tit) On 16 and 18-04 2 exx. at Lava. Parus xanthogenys Grey-crested Tit (Brown-Crested Tit) On 28-03 3 exx. at Sandakphu. Small numbers daily at Gairibans. Parus dichrous Rufous-vented Tit (Rufous-bellied Crested Tit) Observed on 28/29-03 at Sandakphu. Parus rubidiventris Coal Tit On 28/29-03 4 exx. at Sandakphu. Parus ater Sultan Tit On 12-03 1 ex. Panbari Forest. Melanochlora sultanea Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch On 12-03 several at Panbari Forest. On 17/18-03 3 exx. at Nameri. Sitta castanea On 16-04 3 exx. at Lava. White-tailed Nuthatch On 26-03 6 exx. at Tiger Hill. Daily a few at Gairibans. Sitta himalayensis On 8-04 3 exx. at Pemayangtse Velvet-fronted Nuthatch on 12-03 1 ex. panbari forest. Sitta frontalis Rusty-flanked Treecreeper (Nepal Treecreeper) On 28/29-03 a few at Sandakphu. On 1-04 1 ex. at Gairibans. Certhia nipalensis Green-tailed Sunbird (Nepal Yellow-backed Sunbird) On 22-03 1 ex. at Mawphlang. Aethopyga nipalensis On 26-03 2 exx. and on 27-03 3 exx. at Tiger Hill. Seen at Gairibans. On 8/9-04 observed at Pemayangtse. On 18-04 a few at Lava. Mrs. Gould’s Sunbird On 16-04 2 exx. at Lava. On 18-04 commonly seen at Lava. Aethopyga gouldiae Black-throated Sunbird observed at kaziranga/panbari forest on 12-03. Aethopyga saturata Crimson Sunbird (Yellow-backed Sunbird) Observed at Gauhati, scrub near the Wild Grass Lodge, Aethopyga siparaja Nameri, Fire-tailed Sunbird A few seen at Darjeeling. Daily up to 7 exx. at Tiger Hill. Aethopyga ignicauda Daily observed at Gairibans and Pemayangtse. Streaked Spiderhunter On 12-03 twice seen at Panbari Forest. Arachnothera magna Little Spiderhunter On 14-03 1 ex. at Panbari Forest. Arachnothera longirostra Yellow-vented Flowerpecker On 14-03 2 exx. at Panbari Forest. Dicaeum chrysorrheum Plain Flowerpecker On 12-03 2 exx. and on 14-03 3 exx. at Panbari Forest. Dicaeum concolor Observed at Nameri. Fire-breasted Flowerpecker On 8-04 1 pair at Pemayangtse. Dicaeum ignipectus Oriental White-eye On 16-04 a few at Lava. Zosterops palpebrosus Black-hooded Oriole On 10-03 2 m. at tea garden of Wild Grass Lodge. Oriolus xanthornus Common at Panbari Forest. Long-tailed Shrike Seen twice at Kaziranga. Lanius schach Grey-backed Shrike Observed at Wild Grass Lodge, Kaziranga and on transit. Lanius tephronotus Brown Shrike On 12-03 1 ex. Kaziranga. Lanius cristatus Black Drongo Observed in open areas, Assam. West Bengal. Dicrurus macrocercus Ashy Drongo Observed at Panbari, Nameri, Pemayangtse. Dicrurus leucophaeus Spangled Drongo (Hair-crested Drongo) On 12-03 several at Panbari Forest. On 16-03 2 exx. at Nameri. Dicrurus hottentottus Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Observed at Panbari Forest, Nameri Dicrurus paradiseus Bronzed Drongo On 12-03 3 exx. at Panbari Forest and several times observed at Dicrurus aeneus Nameri. Ashy Woodswallow On 11-03 3 exx. at Kaziranga. Artamus fuscus Yellow-billed Blue Magpie On 26/27-03 6/7 exx. at Tiger Hill. Urocissa flavirostris Grey Treepie (Himalayan Treepie) On 8/9-04 1-2 exx. at Pemayangtse. Dendrocitta formosae Spotted Nutcracker On 2-04 3 exx. between Gairibans and Megma. Nucifraga caryocatactes House Crow Common in the lowlands. Corvus splendens Raven Observed at Sandakphu. Corvus corax Large-billed Crow Widespread in Assam and also observed near Shillong. Corvus macrorhynchos Chestnut-tailed Starling (Grey-headed Myna) Common at Kaziranga, Nameri, Sturnus malabaricus Common Myna Observed. Acridotheres tristis Asian Pied Starling (Pied Myna) Observed at Kaziranga. Sturnus contra White-vented Myna On 10-03 a few near the Wild Grass Lodge, Kaziranga Acridotheres cinereus Hill Myna On 18-03 3 exx. at Nameri. Gracula religiosa Tree Sparrow Daily around Shillong. Passer montanus Black-headed Munia On 18 and 19-03 observed at Nameri. Lonchura malacca Baya Weaver Observed at Kaziranga. Ploceus philippinus Streaked Weaver Observed at Kaziranga. Ploceus manyar Red Avadavat On 12-03 4 exx. at Kaziranga. Amandava (Estrilda) amandava Yellow-breasted Greenfinch (Himalayan Greenfinch) Common around Darjeeling. Carduelis spinoides Plain Mountain Finch On 26-03 singing at Tiger Hill. 100+ at Sandakphu. Leucosticte nemoricola On 11-04 observed near Tsjongo Lake. Dark-breasted Rosefinch (Nepal Rosefinch) Common at Darjeeling, Carpodacus nipalensis Common around Gairibans. (10+). On 8-04 2 exx. near Pemayangtse. Pink-browed Rosefinch On 1 ex. near Gairibans. Carpodacus rodochrous White-browed Rosefinch twice a male seen at sandakphu. Carpodacus thura Dark-rumped Rosefinch On 26-03 1 fem. at Tiger Hill. Carpodacus edwardsii Scarlet Finch On 16-04 1 fem. at Lava. Haematospiza sipahi On 18-04 1 male at Lava. Gold-naped Finch On 16-04 1 m. at Lava. Pyrrhoplectes epauletta On 18/19-04 15+ at road side scrub near Lava. Brown Bullfinch On 18-04 1m. + 3 fem. at Lava. Pyrrhula nipalensis Red-headed Bullfinch On 26 and 27-03 1 pair at Tiger Hill. Pyrrhula erythrocephala On 8-04 2 m. at Pemayangtse. On 16-04 2 m. at Lava. White-winged Grosbeak On 28/29-03 10-15 exx. at Sandakphu. Mycerobas (Coccothraustes) carnipes In total 388 species observed Henk Hendriks |
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