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Birding Riberalta, Northeast Bolivia

13-16 OCTOBER 1998




As part of a five-month birding trip to South America we decided to visit Riberalta, a small town near to the Brazilian border in northeast Bolivia where we hoped to locate two species difficult to see elsewhere in this huge continent. We were very fortunate in locating both the Masked Antpitta and Rufous-sided Pygmy Tyrant in just a few days as well as seeing some other fantastic Amazonian bird species.

Riberalta is a little known and rarely visited locality in Bolivia that merits more than the few days that we spent birding. Jon Hornbuckle brought the area to our attention and Sjoerd Mayer who spent almost three weeks in the area and produced the excellent CD-ROM. Sjoerd recorded some very interesting birds not least the 'recently split' Masked Antpitta. With this in mind we decided that visiting the locality would be an excellent opportunity to see some little known and rarely seen Amazonian and grassland species. The area also allows one to get to grips with some stunning Amazonian species that would otherwise be extremely difficult and expensive to see. I would certainly recommend this area to anyone who wants a reasonably cheap and relaxed visit to a fantastic forested area with the chances of making some very interesting and potentially exciting discoveries.


In order to reach Riberalta it is necessary to fly from La Paz to Cochabamba, on to Trinidad and from here to Riberalta, or if the flights are convenient direct from La Paz to Riberalta. The flight cost approximately $200 return and allowed us to stop off at Trinidad on the way back. Flight time to Trinidad was about 1.5 hours and to Riberalta another hour and twenty minutes. Once at Riberalta take a motorbike taxi literally a few hundred metres or so to Hotel Reyes, (reasonably cheap). In order to reach the birding areas we mostly hired motorbikes and driver. We decided that a taxi might be a better option in order to visit km36 and this cost 160Bs for the driver to take us to the site, wait for us and then return to Riberalta in the early afternoon. The cost for a motorbike each to Hamburgo was 5Bs each, a journey of only five minutes or so. To reach the forest at Warnes and Antofagasta, we paid about 20 or 30Bseach and again got the bikes to wait for us and ferry to different patches of forest.


The people appeared to be very friendly and helpful, though there were five of us and so it is difficult to know if a lone person would be equally treated but I tend to think that they would. The weather here as expected was very changeable and we frequently got caught in tropical downpours and lightning. The temperature is extremely high all day long with intense humidity making the nights somewhat uncomfortable.


13th October

Left hostal Copacabana in La Paz at 0630 to travel to the airport for the 0830 flight to Cochabamba. This short flight was followed by another flight onwards to Trinidad. Spent an hour at the airport observing the local scenery that greeted us at we arrived, departed soon after for the flight to Riberalta, arriving at 1430. The temperature at Riberalta was very high with high humidity and the possibility of rain in the air. This very relaxed small airport was only a few minutes by motorbike to the hotel Reyes situated on the outskirts of town. We booked into two rooms in the hotel and attempted to cool down from the incredibly oppressive temperatures, with the fans at full speed. Once we sorted our luggage we flagged down a motorbike taxi outside who then rounded up four other taxi motorbikes. We paid 5 Bs each for the short journey to the brickworks at Hamburgo a few minutes' approx. five minutes away. Once we located the small trail to the lake we started our search for Masked Antpitta, birding was pretty slow though and the only bird of note that we managed to locate was a stunning male Band-tailed Manakin glowing in the vegetation, and two Great Antshrikes. Within an hour or so with limited success the sky was gradually getting darker and darker, the distant rumble of thunder very evident. As the light levels dropped twenty Band-tailed Nighthawks hawked over the lake, and the mosquitoes appeared in force. We had arranged for the bikes to return at 1800 to take us back to the hotel but as this time passed there was still no sign of any transport and the weather had taken a turn for the worse. We decided to shelter from the heavy rain and lightning in one of the brick buildings in the hope that the rain would pass and some transport arrive. After an hour or so without any torches and in the pitch black we started to walk back to town, drenched by the rain and hoping that the lightning didn't strike us. Once back at the hotel we had a meal sorted out a taxi for the morning to drive us to km36 and then crashed out for the night.

14th October

Out of the hotel at 0545 we took the pre-arranged taxi to km36 following the main road out of town and through a military checkpoint that itself presented no problems. We drove along the track off the main road at km36 and parked up adjacent to the area of savannah type grassland on the right of the road. This habitat type is reasonably small and in order to cover the area we decided to split up to attempt to locate the Rufous-sided Pygmy Tyrant, the main reason for visiting this area. The taxi driver parked up whilst we covered the area on foot and within an hour a Pygmy tyrant was located as it perched up in the low bushes, followed shortly after by another two individuals nearby. In the process of walking across this area there was the ever-present sound of Red-winged Tinamous that were occasionally flushed from the grass. This area also hosted five very flighty and vocal Upland Sandpipers that refused to allow us close approach, Rusty-backed Antwrens and plenty of Small-billed Elaenias. Fork-tailed Flycatchers were very evident along with plenty of Tropical Kingbirds perched aloft the grassy stems and twigs. The main quarry under the belt we birded the forest edge along the road that produced White-eyed Parakeet, three Red and Green Macaw and a mixed Tanager flock. At 0920 we returned to Hamburgo to bird the area adjacent to the lake in search of the Masked Antpitta once again. The taxi dropped us off and we paid 160Bs for the morning hire.

Although it was now very hot there was still a reasonable amount of bird activity and the late morning and afternoon produced many notable sightings. We walked along the road past the brickworks to the river where a small trail can be followed for a hundred metres or so before turning right to the riverbank. Fortunately there were very few people on this trail and we were able to observe a Spotted Tody-Flycatcher nest building and obtain brief though close views of a Yellow-chinned Spinetail as it kept low in the dense riverine grass adjacent to the river. We decided to take a rest on the riverbank and bought some cold drinks and snacks off of a few locals that were based in a small shelter. I'm not entirely sure what we were eating but it certainly filled a whole and didn't lead to any gastrointestinal problems. On the opposite bank of the river a group of seven Buff-breasted Sandpipers fed at the edge of the river. We returned to the lake near the brickworks and birded the forest adjacent to the lake. Large-billed Tern was very common as was Smooth-billed Ani at the lake edge, and a Sungrebe swam along. The partially flooded forest adjacent to the lake was home to Green and Rufous, and Pygmy Kingfisher, whilst noisy Solitary Black Caciques were common in the trees overhead. The real highlights though were the Masked Antpittas that were easily lured into view where they often remained on view for several minutes easily followed as they slowly hopped along the forest floor. A very loud call was followed up and turned out to be a Varzea Mourner that sat in full view on a low branch for several minutes. Other birds seen in this flooded forest were Johannes' Tody-Tyrant and a fantastic Spot-breasted Woodpecker. On the edge of the forest next to the road Ashy-headed Greenlets were reasonably common and Fawn-breasted Wrens sang noisily from the vegetation.

In the late afternoon we travelled by motorbike taxis to an area of agricultural land and scrubby vegetation five km from Riberalta on the road to Santa Rosa in the vague hope of locating Silky-tailed Nightjar though we only managed a Common Potoo on a stump at dusk and a few Fork-tailed Palm Swifts flying overhead. Some locals banging on the door and trying to push open the window to our room disturbed the night, fortunately they left after ten minutes, their identity or intentions will never be known.

15th October

Another early start leaving the hotel at 0530 to travel by taxi, this time a car to another site, the road to Warnes and Antofagasta. We drove along a side road off of the main road to Antofagasta of which there are many. There was a small lake and a river that entered into a patch of forest as well as large stands of primary forest. In the short time available we birded an area of primary forest that was reasonably quiet for bird activity though we managed to locate a Lettered Aracari and a White-necked Puffbird sat motionless in a tree. With limited success we started to move further afield to attempt to locate some 'true' Amazonian species. Luck was on our side and a small trail adjacent to the river followed for a few hundred metres was incredibly productive. A series of unknown calls turned out to be Amazonian Antshrikes, a reasonably common bird in this area. Other Antbird species were also well represented by White-shouldered Antshrikes, Amazonian Streaked Antwrens, White-flanked Antwrens, Spot-backed Antbird and a White-throated Antbird was heard calling. Despite the temperature being very hot a random play of the call of Sulphur-bellied Tyrant Manakin had spectacular results as one flew in immediately the tape was played. This was an unexpected bonus and only found due to my random tape play of various species. As if things couldn't get any better Keith located a superb Flame-crowned Manakin that was joined by a female, both remaining on view for a considerable period of time. On returning to the road to locate our taxi driver a fantastic Long-billed Woodcreeper put on a spectacular show in a bare tree whilst nearby a pair of Paradise Jacamars sallied from a high perch and a Cinnamon Attila worked its way through the adjacent forest. The forest was much better than expected and only a taster of the full avifauna of this superb region. We returned to Riberalta for a short rest before returning to Hamburgo from 1540 to 1810 for another very productive period of birding.

The highlights of the afternoon were Silvered Antbird, a fantastic Black-spotted Bare-eye and very close views of two Masked Antpittas, surely one of the easiest Antpittas to see? An undisturbed night was broken only by the sound of more rain.

16th October

Left the hotel at 0535 for the 40-minute ride on motorbike to Antofagasta where we birded the forest near the village until 1000 am by which time is was extremely hot. The forest here was slightly different to the area visited the day before and not as productive. We still managed to locate White-necked and, Striolated Puffbird, a Rose-breasted Chat that was attempting to hide in the canopy and a Rufous Casiornis. A few Antbirds were located though there was no 'gallery' type forest and therefore the specialities of the 15th were not located at all. Eventually it was time to depart and we returned to the hotel for the 1545 flight from Riberalta to Trinidad where we spent a few days birding, primarily to see the Blue-throated Macaw.


Birds of South America. Vol. 1 and 2. Ridgely and Tudor.

South American Birds, a photographic guide. Dunning.

Birds Sounds of Bolivia 2.0 CD-ROM. Sjoerd Mayer.


I would like to thank Jon Hornbuckle for inspiring us to visit the area in the few spare days that we had available, for his notes on birds that he recorded in the area and a few comments on this report. I would also like to thank Sjoerd Mayer for commenting on this report and 'discovering the area'. Thanks go to the motorbike lads at Riberalta that carted us around the forest areas (except on the first night?) and to the residents of Riberalta that made our stay a pleasant one.

If anyone would like to contact me regarding the above my email is


LITTLE TINAMOU Crypturellus soui

A Tinamou species heard at Antofagasta was presumed to be this species.

RED-WINGED TINAMOU Rhynchotus rufescens

Four flushed from the grasslands at km36; many others were heard calling.

NEOTROPICAL CORMORANT Plalacrocorax brasilianus

Two at Hamburgo around the lake.

COCCOI HERON Ardea coccoi

One at Hamburgo at the lake.

GREAT EGRET Egretta albus

One at Hamburgo at the lake.

STRIATED HERON Butaroides striatus

Two at Hamburgo, one at Antofagasta.

BLACK VULTURE Coragyps atratus

Common at Antofagasta, Hamburgo.

TURKEY VULTURE Cathartes aura

Common at Antofagasta.

PLUMBEOUS KITE Ictinia plumbea

Two at km36 seen flying over and perching in the trees adjacent to the savannah area.

SLATE-COLOURED HAWK Leucopternis schistacea

One at Hamburgo was seen flying around the forest near to the lake.

ROADSIDE HAWK Buteo magnirostris

One at Antofagasta.

SPIX'S GUAN Penelope jacquaca

One at Hamburgo.

STARRED WOOD QUAIL Odontophorus stellatus

This species was possibly heard calling adjacent to the road to Santa Rosa.

OCELLATED CRAKE Coturnicops schomburgkii

This species was not recorded by us, probably a result of us not knowing its call, though has been found to be reasonably common in the grasslands at km 36.

SUNGREBE Heliornis fulica

One at the lake at Hamburgo.

WATTLED JACANA Jacana jacana

Two at Hamburgo.

UPLAND SANDPIPER Bartramia longicauda

Five at km36 in the Savannah grasslands were incredibly shy and flighty, quite unlike those seen in the UK in October.


One at Antofagasta on a roadside puddle.

BUFF-BREASTED SANDPIPER Tryngites subruficollis

Seven at Hamburgo were feeding on the riverbank.

LARGE BILLED TERN Phaetusa simplex

Common at Hamburgo.

RUDDY PIGEON Columba subvinacea

Two at km36, a few at Hamburgo.

RUDDY GROUND DOVE Columbina talpacoti

Common at Hamburgo.

PICUI GROUND DOVE Columbina picui

A few at Hamburgo.

RED AND GREEN MACAW Ara chloroptera

Three at the forest at km36.

WHITE-EYED PARAKEET Aratinga leucophthalmus

Common in the forest areas at km36.

WHITE-BELLIED PARROT Pionites leucogaster

Five at Antofagasta.


Two at Antofagasta.

LITTLE CUCKOO Piaya minuta

One at Hamburgo.

GREATER ANI Crotophaga major

Five at Hamburgo, four at Antofagasta

SMOOTH BILLED ANI Crotophaga ani

Common at km36 and at Hamburgo.

STRIPED CUCKOO Tapera naevia

Heard at Hamburgo.

COMMON POTOO Nyctibius griseus

One at the roadside on the road to Santa Rosa was seen on a tree stump whilst looking for Nightjars one evening.

LEAST NIGHTHAWK Chordeiles pusillus

Not recorded by us, fairly common at dawn and dusk at km 36 (Sjoerd Mayer)

BAND-TAILED NIGHTHAWK Nyctiprogne leucopyga

Twenty were hawking over the lake at Hamburgo at dusk.

SHORT-TAILED SWIFT Chaetura brachyura

Five at Antofagasta.

FORK-TAILED PALM SWIFT Tachornis squamata

Five on road to Santa Rosa.

REDDISH HERMIT Phaethornis ruber

One at Antofagasta.

FORK-TAILED WOODNYMPH Thalarunia furcata

One at Antofagasta

BLACK-TAILED TROGON Trogon melanurus

One at Hamburgo.


One at Antofagasta

RINGED KINGFISHER Megaceryle torquata

Two at Hamburgo, one at Antofagasta.

AMAZON KINGFISHER Chloroceryle amazona

A few at Hamburgo, two at Antofagasta.

GREEN KINGFISHER Chloroceryle americana

A few at Hamburgo.


Two at Hamburgo were seen incredibly well as they perched at close range in the forest adjacent to the lake.


One at Antofagasta, on at Hamburgo.


Common at Antofagasta.


Four at Hamburgo.


Two perched high in the trees on the road to Warnes.

WHITE-NECKED PUFFBIRD Notharchus macrorhynchus

Two at Antofagasta.

STRIOLATED PUFFBIRD Nystalus striolatus

Two at Antofagasta.


One at Hamburgo.

SWALLOW WING Chelidoptera tenebrosa

Two at Hamburgo.


One at km36, one at Antofagasta.

LETTERED ARACARI Pteroglossus inscriptus

One seen in the forest on the road to Warnes.

WHITE-WEDGED PICULET Picumnus albosquamatus

Three at Hamburgo and Antofagasta.

LITTLE WOODPECKER Veniliornis passerinus

One at km36, one at Hamburgo

RED-STAINED WOODPECKER Veniliornis affinis

One at Antofagasta


One individual of this superb Woodpecker was seen at Hamburgo.

LINEATED WOODPECKER Dryocopus lineatus

One at Antofagasta.

PLAIN-BROWN WOODCREEPER Dendrocincla fuliginosa

One at Antofagasta.

LONG-TAILED WOODCREEPER Deconychura longicauda

Two at Antofagasta.


One in forest edge on the road to Warnes was easily taped into view and watched for several minutes.


Three at Hamburgo.

OCELLATED WOODCREEPER Xiphorhynchus ocellatus

Two Woodcreeper presumed to be this species of the brevirostris race were seen in the forest adjacent to the road to Warnes.

BUFF-THROATED WOODCREEPER Xiphorhynchus guttatus

One at Antofagasta.

PALE-LEGGED HORNERO Furnarius leucopus

Two at Hamburgo.

PLAIN-CROWNED SPINETAIL Synallaxis gujanensis

Four at Hamburgo.

RUDDY SPINETAIL Synallaxis rutilans

Two at Antofagasta.

YELLOW-CHINNED SPINETAIL Certhiaxis cinnamomea

Three at Hamburgo in dense riverine vegetation beyond the brickworks.


Three at Antofagasta.


One at Hamburgo.

PLAIN XENOPS Xenops minutus

Two at Hamburgo.


Two at Hamburgo.

BARRED ANTSHRIKE Thamnophilus doliatus

Six at Hamburgo, two on road to Santa Rosa.


Three at Antofagasta.

AMAZONIAN ANTSHRIKE Thamnophilus amazonicus

Fifteen in gallery type forest adjacent to a river on the road to Warnes. This species was easily seen at this location, the only place that we encountered this primarily Amazonian forest bird.

'AMAZONIAN'-STREAKED ANTWREN Myrmotherula surinamensis

Two in the forest on the road to Warnes, and one at Hamburgo.

WHITE-FLANKED ANTWREN Myrmotherula axillaris

One seen in forest on the road to Warnes and two at Antofagasta.

GREY ANTWREN Myrmotherula menetriesii

One at Antofagasta.


Three at the edge of the Savannah grasslands in scrubby vegetation at km36. The map in Ridgely Vol. 2 would appear to indicate that this is range extension.

BLACKISH ANTBIRD Cercomacra nigrescens

Common at Hamburgo.

WHITE-BROWED ANTBIRD Myrmoborus leucophrys

Heard at Antofagasta.

WARBLING ANTBIRD Hypocnemis cantator

One in forest on road to Warnes, common at Antofagasta.

BAND-TAILED ANTBIRD Hypocnemoides maculicauda

One at Hamburgo was watched feeding low down next to the lake.

SILVERED ANTBIRD Sclateria naevia

Two feeding on logs at the edge of the lake at Hamburgo.

WHITE THROATED ANTBIRD Gymnopithys salvini

Heard calling at Antofagasta.

SPOT-BACKED ANTBIRD Hylophylax naevia

One in forest on the road to Warnes.

BLACK-SPOTTED BARE-EYE Phlegopsis nigromaculata

One in the forest near to the lake at Hamburgo was initially located by call and watched at close range for ten minutes.

BLACK-FACED ANTTHRUSH Formicarius analis

Heard calling at Antofagasta.

MASKED ANTPITTA Grallaria auricularis

Five seen with many others heard calling at Hamburgo. This appeared to be a relatively easy Antpitta to both locate and see, with several birds seen easily with or without tape playback. Riberalta is well worth visiting if you want to see this species which should be seen even on a very short visit to this area. All birds seen were reasonably approachable and at times would approach incredibly close and continue calling on a slightly raised area such as a log.

SCREAMING PIHA Lipaugus vociferans

Heard at Antofagasta, no efforts were made to see this species.


Heard calling at Antofagasta.

BAND-TAILED MANAKIN Pipra fasciicauda

One male only of this superb Manakin species at Hamburgo in the forest adjacent to the lake.

RED-HEADED MANAKIN Pipra rubrocapilla

Five at Antofagasta.

FLAME-CROWNED MANAKIN Heterocercus linteatus

Two in the gallery forest where the Amazonian Antshrikes were seen was a complete surprise on the road to Warnes. Fortunately the male remained in view for nearly ten minutes enabling us to obtain fantastic views of this cracking little bird. According to Vol. 2 of BSA this species is not indicated for the distribution map in Bolivia.


One in gallery forest on the road to Warnes was seen completely by chance as I decided to play a tape of the species. Almost immediately a bird flew into view close by and repeated the same call on a close by tree where it remained for several minutes.

JOHANNE'S TODY-TYRANT Hemitriccus iohannis

Four plus at Hamburgo were located by call.


One at Hamburgo, Antofagasta.

SPOTTED TODY-FLYCATCHER Todirostrum maculatum

Two at Hamburgo were seen in riverine scrub and low bushes. A nest was located enabling us to obtain prolonged views of this species.

YELLOW-BELLIED ELAENIA Elaenia flavogaster

Common in the savannah grasslands at km36.

RUFOUS-SIDED PYGMY-TYRANT Pseudotriccus ruficeps

Two in the savannah grasslands at km36 were difficult to observe at times as they flitted from clump to clump of the low grass and vegetation. We trawled with tape for several hours across this area covering between us a huge area and still only managed to locate two birds. This alike the Masked Antpitta is another speciality of the area and well worth visiting if seeing this species is a priority.


Two at Antofagasta.

YELLOW-OLIVE FLYCATCHER Tolmomyias sulphurescens

One at Hamburgo.

FUSCOUS FLYCATCHER Cnemotriccus fuscatus

Five at Hamburgo.

BLACK-BACKED WATER-TYRANT Fluvicola albiventer

One in fields adjacent to road at Hamburgo.

CINNAMON ATTILA Attila cinnamomeus

One at Antofagasta and one at Hamburgo.


Two at Antofagasta.

CINEREOUS MOURNER Laniocera hypopyrra

Two at Antofagasta.

TROPICAL KINGBIRD Tyrannus melanocholicus

Common at km36.


Common at km36, hundreds seen at Hamburgo around the lake perched on the vegetation.

CROWNED SLATY FLYCATCHER Griseotyr aurantioatrocristatus

Two at km36.

BOAT-BILLED FLYCATCHER Megarynchus pitangua

Heard at Hamburgo.

STREAKED FLYCATCHER Myiodynastes maculatus

One at km36.

SOCIAL FLYCATCHER Myiozetetes similis

Common at Hamburgo.

VARZEA MOURNER Schiffornis major

One at Hamburgo, and another heard calling at Antofagasta. This species was taped in as a result of following up on an unfamiliar song. The bird approached very close and seemed happy to sit perched on a low branch for a short while. This was another unexpected bonus on visiting this area.

CHESTNUT-CROWNED BECARD Pachyramphus castaneus

One at Antofagasta.

BLACK-CAPPED BECARD Pachyramphus marginatus

One at Hamburgo, Antofagasta.

MASKED TITYRA Tityra semifasciata

One on road to Warnes and three at Antofagasta.

RED-EYED VIREO Vireo olivaceus

Two at Antofagasta.

ASHY-HEADED GREENLET Hylophilus pectoralis

Four at Hamburgo in the low trees near to the lake.

HAUXWELLS THRUSH Turdus hauxwelli

Two at Hamburgo.


One at km36.

THRUSH LIKE WREN Campylorynchus turdinus

Heard at Hamburgo and Antofagasta.

FAWN-BREASTED WREN Thryothorus guarayanus

Common at Hamburgo.

HOUSE WREN Troglodytes aedon

Two at km36.

SOUTHERN ROUGH-WINGED SWALLOW Stelgidopteryx ruficollis

Common at Hamburgo.

ROSE-BREASTED CHAT Granatellus pelzelni

One female at Antofagasta was part of a mixed species feeding flock.

GRASSLAND SPARROW Ammodramus humeralis

Common at km36.

YELLOW-BROWED SPARROW Ammodramus aurifrons

Common at Hamburgo.

PECTORAL SPARROW Arremon taciturnus

Heard calling at Antofagasta.

RED-CAPPED CARDINAL Paroaria gularis

A few at Hamburgo.

YELLOW-BACKED TANAGER Hemithraupis flavicollis

Two at km36.

WHITE SHOULDERED TANAGER Tachyphonus luctuosus

Four on road to Warnes, common at Antofagasta.


Common at Antofagasta.

FLAME-CRESTED TANAGER Tachyphonus cristatus

Four at Antofagasta.


A few at km36, Antofagasta, common at Hamburgo.

BLUE-GREY TANAGER Thraupis episcopus

Common at Hamburgo, two at Antofagasta.

PALM TANAGER Thraupis palmarum

Common at Hamburgo.


Two at Antofagasta.

BLUE DACNIS Dacnis cayana

One at Antofagasta.

GREEN HONEYCREEPER Chlorophanes spiza

One at Antofagasta.

SWALLOW TANAGER Tersina viridis

Two at km36, a few at Antofagasta.

WEDGE-TAILED GRASSFINCH Emberizoides herbicola

Three at km36.

PLUMBEOUS SEEDEATER Sporophila plumbea

One at km36.

WHITE-BELLIED SEEDEATER Sporophila leucoptera

Two at Hamburgo.

LESSER-SEED FINCH Oryzoborus angolensis

Two at Hamburgo.

BLUE-BLACK GRASSQUIT Volatinia jacarina

Common at km36.


Two on road to Warnes, five very vocal birds at Antofagasta.

GREYISH SALTATOR Saltator coerulescens

One at Hamburgo.


One at Hamburgo.


Common at Hamburgo.

149 species recorded

Copyright © 1992-2012 John Wall